Valve covers and gaskets/ sealing tricks .......

[bartlett]

Ok whats your ideal cover and what do you do to seal them up good ? 

[My427stang]

I posted on FM too, but here is my technique, they usually are reusable for a long time

- Make sure your v/c are flat at the bolt holes
- Any name brand gasket
- 3M weatherstrip adhesive on V/C and gasket, after it dries, attach glue to glue
- Check intake gaskets, if they stick up above v/c rail, trim with Roloc disk on angle grinder, or use Dremel, etc.
- Tiny dollop of RTV at intake/head seam in case of slight differences in rail height
- Tighten all 5 evenly, use spreader bars on lower bolts if the valve covers are flimsy

Each time you pull them, wipe off the little bit of RTV on the head, and replace the RTV with another fresh smear, they last forever

[jayb]

I like any cast aluminum cover because the rail is much more rigid than a steel stamped cover.  I always use cork valve cover gaskets, and I glue the gaskets to the head and intake rail so that they stay on the engine when the valve cover is removed.  I like to do this because of the junction between the intake and the head; if you don't get some sealer on there you will sometimes see a leak due to mismatch.  On first assembly I torque them down pretty good and make sure to let them set up for at least 24 hours before I pull the valve cover for any reason.  Re-torque after a few temperature cycles because the cork gaskets will shrink somewhat.  Last thing is to use studs in the manifold and head, and Nyloc nuts on the studs so that the nuts don't back off.  This combination has always worked pretty well for me.

[drdano]

I've had good luck with rubber gaskets, which most detest.  I use RightStuff on the valve cover side, nothing on the engine side.  I like to use aluminum covers and use the regular bolts with a nut driver to make sure they aren't sucked down too tight.  No leaks and I don't use RTV at the head/intake junction either.  On my past motor and this new one I make sure this junction is perfectly flat between the two sides and use a box cutter to cut the intake gasket that protrudes. 

[bartlett]

Wow , great ... that what i will be doing ......

[amdscooter]

I posted on FM too, but here is my technique, they usually are reusable for a long time

- Make sure your v/c are flat at the bolt holes
- Any name brand gasket
- 3M weatherstrip adhesive on V/C and gasket, after it dries, attach glue to glue
- Check intake gaskets, if they stick up above v/c rail, trim with Roloc disk on angle grinder, or use Dremel, etc.
- Tiny dollop of RTV at intake/head seam in case of slight differences in rail height
- Tighten all 5 evenly, use spreader bars on lower bolts if the valve covers are flimsy

Each time you pull them, wipe off the little bit of RTV on the head, and replace the RTV with another fresh smear, they last forever

By chance do you have a part number for that 3M weatherstrip goo? There are several varieties available 8011, 8001, 8002, etc..

Thanks!

[My427stang]

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Yellow-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HTNNDA

Just remember, it isnt glue, it's contact cement.  Let it dry on both pieces, then stick it glue to glue.

Its very neat, and easy to clean with a razor blade or Roloc disk when you d need to take it apart.  It is very sticky on your fingers thought!

[amdscooter]

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Yellow-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HTNNDA

Just remember, it isnt glue, it's contact cement.  Let it dry on both pieces, then stick it glue to glue.

Its very neat, and easy to clean with a razor blade or Roloc disk when you d need to take it apart.  It is very sticky on your fingers thought!

^^ Thanks! I've always had issues with my covers seeping and had resorted to using that Mr. Gasket aircraft "tar". It works but goes on nasty and is a pain to get off when using cork gaskets. I'm still using the factory stamped metal dealeo's and they are far from straight despite my best efforts. Thinking I'll pick up a set of aluminum when I put my 390 back together.