Sparkplugs...Autolite or Motorcraft or are they the same?

[427LX]

Which do you guys run for street/strip use?

[Stangman]

I run autolite 3924s cause that’s what most people run
If you have aftermarket heads. With my stock heads ran
Autolite 45s. That’s just me though others might have a different
Preference.

[blykins]

I prefer Autolite plugs myself.  I would use an AR Autolite for a race engine.

[rcodecj]

I run Motorcraft. Autolite is good too.
Anything but Champion.

[My427stang]

I am an "absolutely anything guy" if I can get the heat range I want, and almost always lean toward copper core, especially for the CD boxes, but have 2 AC plug stories.

Since the early 80s, the only time I ever had a plug be a cause, wasn't really the plugs fault either.  Had a brand new set of AC plugs in a 4 barrel 427 BBC, likely 1988-ish timeframe, HEI no less.  Bad choke, wet the plugs, customer tried to swap plugs, couldn't get it running, towed it in to the shop, fixed the carb, tried to dry/clean the brand new plugs, never could get them all to fire correctly.  Stuck a set of something else in, likely Champions, and off it went.  Never knew why they seemed to soak and never come back, didn't seem logical

Flash forward to last year, 2003-ish Vette, sitting for a year, couldn't get it to fire.  Original AC spark plugs from the factory, pulled a few and they were wet but looked nice, swapped a set based on story #1 and it fired up like new. Again, both times had a reason, but the saturation and death of AC plugs seems different than all the others.

I tend to use Autolites for big plugs, and Champion or Autolites in the small plug application, but honestly, the amount of spark plugs I have installed since the 80s and only 2 stories, hard for me to ever blame a plug for anything.

[cammerfe]

Way back when, part of my job was dealing with the plugs on the Thunderbolt. When using Champions, we had to change after every round. I still have burn marks from doing the job. (The plugs would foul on the return road.)

We found that when we changed to using Autolite, the plugs would last  for a whole day, and we'd change them 'to be sure' after the day's racing.

The problem was that Champion would give us a case anytime, just for asking. We'd pull them out and just toss them on the ground. With Autolite, we had to bust out the porcelain and return the threaded shell. We'd keep the used ones and have a small group activity back in the garage of salvaging the shells. Turn in a case of shells and get a new case.

KS

[Stangman]

I am an "absolutely anything guy" if I can get the heat range I want, and almost always lean toward copper core, especially for the CD boxes, but have 2 AC plug stories.

Since the early 80s, the only time I ever had a plug be a cause, wasn't really the plugs fault either.  Had a brand new set of AC plugs in a 4 barrel 427 BBC, likely 1988-ish timeframe, HEI no less.  Bad choke, wet the plugs, customer tried to swap plugs, couldn't get it running, towed it in to the shop, fixed the carb, tried to dry/clean the brand new plugs, never could get them all to fire correctly.  Stuck a set of something else in, likely Champions, and off it went.  Never knew why they seemed to soak and never come back, didn't seem logical



Flash forward to last year, 2003-ish Vette, sitting for a year, couldn't get it to fire.  Original AC spark plugs from the factory, pulled a few and they were wet but looked nice, swapped a set based on story #1 and it fired up like new. Again, both times had a reason, but the saturation and death of AC plugs seems different than all the others.

I tend to use Autolites for big plugs, and Champion or Autolites in the small plug application, but honestly, the amount of spark plugs I have installed since the 80s and only 2 stories, hard for me to ever blame a plug for anything.

I do understand what you are saying I also have put in thousands of spark plugs and unless one was dropped can’t really remember a car not starting because of one or a set no less. That being said I am partial to A/C and Autolites, they just look better and look well made. Take a look at a Champion most of the time we’re the crimp meets the porcelain it looks sloppy. Also in the 80s when I was young there was an older mechanic that always had the answer he was like 50 -55 and I was 20. He didn’t like Champion plugs and only installed them in Chrysler’s. It sort of stuck with me even thought I would put Autolites in the Chrysler’s also.

[GJCAT427]

I don't know why but I allways ran Autolites/Motorcrafts in my fords, ACs in my Pontiacs, and Champs in my Harleys and lawm mowers and small engines. I ran Champs in one of my snowmobiles that were surface gaps from the factory and never fouled a plug when every one else would foul a set in one nights riding. That was in the 70s before plug companys started playing with them.

[james]

Which do you guys run for street/strip use?

Now this may sound kind of strange but I was told by Jon Kaase racing and my Boss 9 engine which is now done as of last Friday that I can use NGK R5671A-8 or Autolite 3910. What do you guys think? And btw, as a side note for this engine I have to use a 351 Windsor Distributor with the brass gear. Who knew?
https://i.imgur.com/LaKKfSX.jpg

[427LX]

Which do you guys run for street/strip use?

Now this may sound kind of strange but I was told by Jon Kaase racing and my Boss 9 engine which is now done as of last Friday that I can use NGK R5671A-8 or Autolite 3910. What do you guys think? And btw, as a side note for this engine I have to use a 351 Windsor Distributor with the brass gear. Who knew?
https://i.imgur.com/LaKKfSX.jpg

Street or race build?  You can get the harder distributor gears for the 351W distributor. But I would check the bronze gear every once in a while for wear.

[Falcon67]

I use either if available, NGK is what I'm using in the AFD 4V aluminum heads on the dragster per AFD Dave's recommendation. 

[Heo]

I use NGK AP6FS, main reason is that's what i can find here
I think they works fine. I have a set of " NOS "60s Motorcraft
plugs but i wont use them

[e philpott]

I think Autolites current quality control sucks , my shop used them exclusively for over 20 years and now we use Denso , NGK and or Bosch .... I can't tell you how many Autolites I've seen with the center Electrode pressed in crooked but it has been a bunch , I even have a set of brand new AR's that have crooked center electrode ( new a few years ago) that's never been installed

[blykins]

Which do you guys run for street/strip use?

Now this may sound kind of strange but I was told by Jon Kaase racing and my Boss 9 engine which is now done as of last Friday that I can use NGK R5671A-8 or Autolite 3910. What do you guys think? And btw, as a side note for this engine I have to use a 351 Windsor Distributor with the brass gear. Who knew?
https://i.imgur.com/LaKKfSX.jpg

The 3910 is a pretty cold plug for higher compression engines. 

Are you sure it's a Windsor distributor?  The 460 and Cleveland engines share a distributor.

[james]

Which do you guys run for street/strip use?

Now this may sound kind of strange but I was told by Jon Kaase racing and my Boss 9 engine which is now done as of last Friday that I can use NGK R5671A-8 or Autolite 3910. What do you guys think? And btw, as a side note for this engine I have to use a 351 Windsor Distributor with the brass gear. Who knew?
https://i.imgur.com/LaKKfSX.jpg

The 3910 is a pretty cold plug for higher compression engines. 

Are you sure it's a Windsor distributor?  The 460 and Cleveland engines share a distributor.

When I was ready to order the Distributor, Doug who works there told me the number is 8578. He then said this a 351 Windosor distributor and I said, "Are you sure?" Yes. I just went in the garage and looked, 85783 is right. The number 3 on the end designates that the distributor is all black. This is what Doug sent me. When I looked at it I really liked the black. Anyway I went on line and found the following.
MSD 8578 Ford 351W Small Diameter Pro-Billet Distributor



https://www.speedwaymotors.com › ... › Part # 5478578



MSD 8578 Ford 351W Small Diameter Pro-Billet Distributor made by MSD, ... Sold in Quantity: ... than stock Ford distributors providing extra room in front of the engine. ... MSD 8585 Ford 351W Bronze Distributor Gear ... MSD 85783 Black Pro-Billet Distributor, 351W ... MSD 8477 Ford 351C-460 Street Pro-Billet Distributor.

Now this is interesting? I just saw the last sentence. MSD 8477 Ford 351C 460 street Pro-Billet Distributor. I have the 460 block stroked to 572 so do I not have the MSD 8477? Any ideas? I should probably call them tommorow. And the plug numbers are what he gave me.

[cammerfe]

It's been a while since I ran a 460, but the last time I bought an aftermarket diz for one, it was the same number for the 460 and the 351C. Are you, perhaps, using an aftermarket block---where something about the dimensions around the diz area would be changed to make a Windsor item the correct one to use? Just a thought.

KS

[james]

It's been a while since I ran a 460, but the last time I bought an aftermarket diz for one, it was the same number for the 460 and the 351C. Are you, perhaps, using an aftermarket block---where something about the dimensions around the diz area would be changed to make a Windsor item the correct one to use? Just a thought.

KS

Thanks for your comments but every single part of this engine is new including the block which is a Ford Racing svo bbf a-460 cyclinder block/large bore and cost $2,800. I think I will call them and find out for sure. Thanks again for your thoughts.

[rcodecj]

My dislike of the Champion and this was years ago was that the ground electrode would not last as long as the other plugs. Its edges would become rounded and they become worn much sooner than a Motorcraft. Also Motorcraft keeps its gap longer. I wasn't talking about some kind of complete failure.

[blykins]

It's been a while since I ran a 460, but the last time I bought an aftermarket diz for one, it was the same number for the 460 and the 351C. Are you, perhaps, using an aftermarket block---where something about the dimensions around the diz area would be changed to make a Windsor item the correct one to use? Just a thought.

KS

Thanks for your comments but every single part of this engine is new including the block which is a Ford Racing svo bbf a-460 cyclinder block/large bore and cost $2,800. I think I will call them and find out for sure. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Even the Eliminator blocks use the standard 351C/460 distributor, so it's worth a phone call.  It may be that Jon had the cam ground with a different gear on it.

[Falcon67]

It's been a while since I ran a 460, but the last time I bought an aftermarket diz for one, it was the same number for the 460 and the 351C. Are you, perhaps, using an aftermarket block---where something about the dimensions around the diz area would be changed to make a Windsor item the correct one to use? Just a thought.

KS

Thanks for your comments but every single part of this engine is new including the block which is a Ford Racing svo bbf a-460 cyclinder block/large bore and cost $2,800. I think I will call them and find out for sure. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Even the Eliminator blocks use the standard 351C/460 distributor, so it's worth a phone call.  It may be that Jon had the cam ground with a different gear on it.

X2 - IIRC< the 351C/460 distributor and the 351W share shaft length (more or less) but the gear is different.  Check the shaft diameter also.  MSD 351C will be .530.  I run MSD 8580s here. 

[james]

It's been a while since I ran a 460, but the last time I bought an aftermarket diz for one, it was the same number for the 460 and the 351C. Are you, perhaps, using an aftermarket block---where something about the dimensions around the diz area would be changed to make a Windsor item the correct one to use? Just a thought.

KS

I talked with Doug at Jon Kaase racing this morning and he assured me that the 351W distributor is the right one. He said that the shaft is shorter and it makes the overall engine "look better" with the shorter shaft instead of the distributor sticking out like a sore thumb. Again, thanks for all you thoughts. 

Thanks for your comments but every single part of this engine is new including the block which is a Ford Racing svo bbf a-460 cyclinder block/large bore and cost $2,800. I think I will call them and find out for sure. Thanks again for your thoughts.

Even the Eliminator blocks use the standard 351C/460 distributor, so it's worth a phone call.  It may be that Jon had the cam ground with a different gear on it.

X2 - IIRC< the 351C/460 distributor and the 351W share shaft length (more or less) but the gear is different.  Check the shaft diameter also.  MSD 351C will be .530.  I run MSD 8580s here.

[wayne]

351 w 351c 429- 460 dist are the same the parts man at the ford told me they stock one and use the gear you need.I have a 351 c dual point in a 351w with a gear change a ran it for years.