Best media to use for an intake manifold?

[Drew Pojedinec]

I was going to use walnut shell. Any better suggestion?

[Heo]

I did my intake a year ago...or a friend that have a harley shop did it.
First he sand blasted it to get all the oxidation and old dirt of then hotwater washed it then glasbeaded it
then in the washing machine again  super easy to keep klean just
some petroleum based degreaser or what it is called in english
like some hitec kerosene or ....and hoose it of with water and blow
dry with compressed air
I saw a harley engine he did 17 years ago still same finnish just mayby
a tad darker and it was in for a new rebuild so it was not just stored for 17 years
have som pic somewhere
There you have it got it oily due to a leak around the distributor washed it of and still same same finnish  im going to do the valvecovers and just polish top of the finns

[Drew Pojedinec]

Hrm. I dunno if I have a good way to wash out beads if they get into the ports. I’ll think on that.

[Heo]

He use a ,,,,"washing machine" big one with hotwater
and some alcalic,lye, kind of detergent like the most
engine machine shops have. You probably know what
kind im  talking about
If you have a machine shop close they probably can
wash it for you for a box of dougnuts
Or...when the wife is out of town you could......

He says its important to sand blast it thoroghly first
to get it clean beacuse the glas beads more or less
just polish the surface and imbed dirt or oxide if its
not clean and you get a uneven finish
And use new glasbeads that not been crushed or
contaminated

I have a FSB crossram he did 25-30 years ago still
the same finnish but it have only been hanging on the wall

[machoneman]

Crushed walnut shells as they are organic and any residue you can't see to clean out will quickly degrade with minimal engine damage.  Try this trick: soak some glass beads and walnut shells in separate containers of oil or gas. Guess which is totally immune to degradation? 

https://www.eastwood.com/blast-media-walnut-shells-50-lb.html

[jayb]

I've always glass beaded them, after first cleaning any grease or oil out of the runners, and off the outside.  I usually tape up the runner openings and carb holes just to be safe too, but occasionally the tape will break and some beads will get into the runners.  I've read lots of reports online from people who say no matter how you prepare the intake you will never get all the glass beads out of the runner passages, but good compressed air and some long reach nozzles have always gotten the job done for me.  I've also run water from a hose through the runners on occasion, if I haven't been sure that the grease and oil aren't completely gone before the glass beading.  Bottom line is glass beading leaves a very nice finish and isn't anything to be afraid of.

[Heo]

Yes very nice finish and so easy to keep clean
just don't let gas dry on it because it leave stains
blow it of with compressed air

[machoneman]

No aircraft engine manufacturer or authorized rebuilder is allowed to use any glass beads.

An AEC tech bulletin (one I could not copy as a PDF here!):

Title: Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material

Technical portions are approved by Airmotive Engineering Corp.
T.N. No.: 09-2
Page: 1 of 2
Issued: 2-10-10
Revision: 0
1.0 PURPOSE: To help prevent engine failures
2.0 SCOPE: To alert technicians and mechanics about the perils related to glass beads
3.0 APPLICATION: Maintenance of aircraft piston engines.
4.0 REFERENCE: Engine Manufacturer’s overhaul manuals and service bulletins, service
instructions and service letters (Continuing Airworthiness Instructions) should always be
consulted as the principal authority for any engine overhaul and maintenance information.
5.0 DISCUSSION: One of the methods used by technicians and mechanics to clean component parts
is to shot blast using glass beads. This procedure has some benefits over other cleaning
procedures, but all of the benefits pale in comparison to the devastation that glass beads cause
when they are introduced in any manner into the inner workings of an aircraft piston engine. Even
one glass bead can cause significant damage before it breaks up into glass dust. If it is trapped in a
bearing it does its damage and then can re-circulate to do some more.
Many shops keep glass bead blast media and only use it to clean external parts. Others believe
that proper cleaning will eliminate the hazard. There are two axioms that should be posted in
every engine shop:
1. If glass beads are any where in any quantity in an aircraft repair facility, they will end up
in aircraft engines!
2. The only thing that loosens up and moves glass bead media from the nooks and crannies
of aircraft engines and into areas where they cause the most harm is hot engine oil!

Most engine overhaulers or repairers have experienced problems related to glass beads. However,
many were never aware of the root cause for their problems, and either gave up on the search for a
cause or attributed the cause to something else. This is because glass beads will defy cleaning
efforts and are difficult to identify after the damage is done. Airmotive Engineering Corp. and
Engine Components, Inc. have experienced the problems caused by glass bead blast media many
times over the years. Because of these experiences (i.e. warranty claims), our technicians have
developed highly effective evaluation techniques, and it is rare that positive evidence of glass
beads cannot be found.
T.N. No. 09-2
Revision 0
Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material
Page 2 of 2
 The photograph below shows glass beads that were solvent washed from behind piston rings of
cylinders sent back to ECi for warranty consideration. The pistons, rings, cylinder bores, and
bearings were severely damaged and unserviceable.
Photo 1: Glass Beads in Engine Oil and Solvent

6.0 Conclusion: It is of utmost importance that glass beads not be used in any manner to clean piston
engine parts. Even one glass bead can cause significant damage, and failure to comply with this
instruction will result in denial of a warranty cl

Re: continentalmotors.aero/xPublications/xService%20Bulletins/ECi%20Archives/09-2/

I rest my case that unless one can almost surgically clean, even an intake, from 100% of all glass beads, other media is preferred.

[cjshaker]

I've always glass beaded them, after first cleaning any grease or oil out of the runners, and off the outside.  I usually tape up the runner openings and carb holes just to be safe too, but occasionally the tape will break and some beads will get into the runners.  I've read lots of reports online from people who say no matter how you prepare the intake you will never get all the glass beads out of the runner passages, but good compressed air and some long reach nozzles have always gotten the job done for me.  I've also run water from a hose through the runners on occasion, if I haven't been sure that the grease and oil aren't completely gone before the glass beading.  Bottom line is glass beading leaves a very nice finish and isn't anything to be afraid of.

Same here. I always put a strip of wide painters tape over the ports, then a couple layers of duct tape. Duct tape gives you strength to resist beads blasting everywhere, while the painters tape allows it to peel off easier. Just didn't aim at the side of the tape so it wouldn't start to release and let beads in. I also tried to trim around the ports so the tape was not hanging out and susceptible to being peeled off by air pressure. Once done, lots of compressed air, then carefully pull the tape off with it aimed down. More compressed air, followed by a good pressure wash or hard stream of water while brushing the ports. More air and called it good. Never had a problem with beads remaining.

[Joe-JDC]

Go to your local LOWES and buy the playground sand in the concrete block section.  It is very fine sand, and use low air pressure to sand blast the manifold.  If you have a pressure washer that you use for sidewalks, or garage floors, or to degrease engine compartments, use that to clean the runners of the intake manifold.  It will look great, restore a semi-natural looking finish, and be easy to clear coat, or paint.  I used to use sand blast sand which  comes in different grades from course to fine, but the sand they sell at Lowes for play ground/sand boxes is cleaner, and smaller grit.  Cheaper, too.  Joe-JDC

[Barry_R]

Lots of people use glass beads.  I used to use it until I got to spend some time working with the returns and failure analysis lab guys at Federal-Mogul.  When we put failed bearings, pistons, and oil pumps under the microscope you would frequently see them just packed with glass beads - a very characteristic round globular appearance.  They would wreak havoc on parts and you would often not even see the damage as much as notice the early degradation in performance.

Stainless shot works really well on castings, but you need to use adhesive foil to protect any machined surfaces.  Otherwise use something soft (plastic) or organic that will break down (walnut or soda).

[machoneman]

Thx Barry! Here are some bike stories (sad):

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=46552.0

Hey, I'm no Cassandra but when other media works as well and doesn't destroy an engine..............................

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cassandra

[Drew Pojedinec]

Appreciate the input folks. I already use glass beads with other stuff, but I can access ALL areas unlike the long runners of an Fe intake. I’ll get some walnut shells and see how I feel about it. If not I kinda like Joes pressure washer idea.

Lars, no machine shops nearby so it’s all on me.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I have used soda, but it isn’t the best

[Heo]

Well when i worked as a mecanic for the airforce there was alot i was not allowed
to do and a lot i had to do. I cheat a lot when i work on my car. I dont safetywire
every bolt, i dont handle my wheelbearings in a clean room with a  white coat and
special shoes , i dont inspect my wingbolts under microscope
But on the other hand.....I not going to make 9G manouvers   rev the engine above
20000 rpm, fly at 40000feet or cruice at treetop height with full afterburner in the
Galaxie 

[Heo]

 Lars, no machine shops nearby so it’s all on me

Then whats left is some "kitchen work" when the wife is out
of the house...

Serously i thought of puting an old dishwasher in the shop
to wash parts in

[Joe-JDC]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned about glass beads is that they break under high pressures and we all know what glass does to your flesh when you bring the two together under pressure.  Also, broken glass beads imbed themselves into aluminum and make it nearly impossible to remove all of the broken shards, even with high pressure washing.  I quit using them years ago when I found them embedded in oil residue under the traps in my oil pan.  Sonic cleaning won't get them all.  Glass beads work well on suspension pieces, brackets, and anything that doesn't involve the inside of the engine.  My experience with walnut/pecan shells is that they are difficult to get small enough to use in a nozzle without clogging up easily, and they close over pores in the metal rather that remove contaminants.  Your experience may vary.  Joe-JDC

[fekbmax]

A good degreasing then aluminum etching cleaner and a good cool water rinse.  Makes heads, intakes, transmissions, look new. If it's really badly oil soaked muriatic acid works well.

[blykins]

Soda....

Here's some parts that were recently soda blasted:





You don't have to worry about it....a quick wash and water will dissolve anything left inside. 

[chilly460]

Good topic.  I recently had an intake powder coated, they told me they tape up all ports but I'm guessing it broke through the tape and there was sand residue inside the intake.  I scrubbed it with bottle brushes as best I could several times and ran water through it, but being a dual plane there were definitely places that didn't get scrubbed very well.   

I'll avoid the agita going forward and will use walnut shells. 

[FERoadster]

Since I've got a number of intakes to blast I plan on making some wood patterns that duplicate the head shape and use an intake gasket to seal the ports. Minimal clean up on the head surfaces would be needed  but no blasting material will get into the ports. Now to figure out media.

Where is a good source for soda to use as material.

Richard >>> FERoadster

[cjshaker]

Even with ports taped up, you still have to be leery of the bottom sides of the intakes. Especially with some less than ideal factory castings that have porous spots. They can hold the media and release it later. I wouldn't try it on anything that had porous castings. Modern castings with good quality sand cores, like Edelbrock always seems to have, is less of an issue.

[babybolt]

Plastic media has worked the best for me.  The part should be cleaned first.  The aluminum wheel cleaner stuff does a good job by itself on an intake.

Walnut shells seem to take forever to clean.

Tried soda, but it just made a big foggy mess inside the blast box, but then maybe the cabinet needs to be modified to use soda.

[machoneman]

https://www.harborfreight.com/50-lbs-medium-grade-armex-soda-blast-media-65929.html

Since I've got a number of intakes to blast I plan on making some wood patterns that duplicate the head shape and use an intake gasket to seal the ports. Minimal clean up on the head surfaces would be needed  but no blasting material will get into the ports. Now to figure out media.

Where is a good source for soda to use as material.

Richard >>> FERoadster

[gt350hr]

   Blue Thunder uses crushed garnet. He is very particular about the finish on his parts. Glass beading was a serious problem for Bud Moore(rip) in '69. They blasted a bunch of parts and had instant failures on the dyno when testing the engines.  They stopped doing it immediately. Steel / stainless steel shot is better but still requires careful cleaning / air blasting afterward.
     Randy

[Drew Pojedinec]

Oddly enough I have 200lbs of baking soda. My wife bought it when Walmart had some sorta sale, dirt cheap like .018 a lb.

I’ve done factory iron intakes but never alumin with it.

Current plan is to soda blast it and see how it looks. If it’s good I’ll rock on.
If not I’ll get some walnut shells or something and try that out.

I do NOT use soda in my cabinet, I typically take the part out into the vegetable garden and blast it there with a small handheld unit. It wastes a lot but whatever. Think it takes me ten lbs to to an iron intake perfectly.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Coooool crushes garnet. Nice. I figured it’d be too hard. I might try that out.

[Heo]

N/M

[scott foxwell]

No aircraft engine manufacturer or authorized rebuilder is allowed to use any glass beads.

An AEC tech bulletin (one I could not copy as a PDF here!):

Title: Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material

Technical portions are approved by Airmotive Engineering Corp.
T.N. No.: 09-2
Page: 1 of 2
Issued: 2-10-10
Revision: 0
1.0 PURPOSE: To help prevent engine failures
2.0 SCOPE: To alert technicians and mechanics about the perils related to glass beads
3.0 APPLICATION: Maintenance of aircraft piston engines.
4.0 REFERENCE: Engine Manufacturer’s overhaul manuals and service bulletins, service
instructions and service letters (Continuing Airworthiness Instructions) should always be
consulted as the principal authority for any engine overhaul and maintenance information.
5.0 DISCUSSION: One of the methods used by technicians and mechanics to clean component parts
is to shot blast using glass beads. This procedure has some benefits over other cleaning
procedures, but all of the benefits pale in comparison to the devastation that glass beads cause
when they are introduced in any manner into the inner workings of an aircraft piston engine. Even
one glass bead can cause significant damage before it breaks up into glass dust. If it is trapped in a
bearing it does its damage and then can re-circulate to do some more.
Many shops keep glass bead blast media and only use it to clean external parts. Others believe
that proper cleaning will eliminate the hazard. There are two axioms that should be posted in
every engine shop:
1. If glass beads are any where in any quantity in an aircraft repair facility, they will end up
in aircraft engines!
2. The only thing that loosens up and moves glass bead media from the nooks and crannies
of aircraft engines and into areas where they cause the most harm is hot engine oil!

Most engine overhaulers or repairers have experienced problems related to glass beads. However,
many were never aware of the root cause for their problems, and either gave up on the search for a
cause or attributed the cause to something else. This is because glass beads will defy cleaning
efforts and are difficult to identify after the damage is done. Airmotive Engineering Corp. and
Engine Components, Inc. have experienced the problems caused by glass bead blast media many
times over the years. Because of these experiences (i.e. warranty claims), our technicians have
developed highly effective evaluation techniques, and it is rare that positive evidence of glass
beads cannot be found.
T.N. No. 09-2
Revision 0
Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material
Page 2 of 2
 The photograph below shows glass beads that were solvent washed from behind piston rings of
cylinders sent back to ECi for warranty consideration. The pistons, rings, cylinder bores, and
bearings were severely damaged and unserviceable.
Photo 1: Glass Beads in Engine Oil and Solvent

6.0 Conclusion: It is of utmost importance that glass beads not be used in any manner to clean piston
engine parts. Even one glass bead can cause significant damage, and failure to comply with this
instruction will result in denial of a warranty cl

Re: continentalmotors.aero/xPublications/xService%20Bulletins/ECi%20Archives/09-2/

I rest my case that unless one can almost surgically clean, even an intake, from 100% of all glass beads, other media is preferred.

You really can't compare Continental covering their ass from a liability standpoint with cleaning an intake for a Ford FE engine. I think that's a little of a stretch. Not saying glass bead won't hurt anything and of course, thorough cleaning is necessary but we're not flying airplanes here. I'll tell you this afa aircraft...walnut particles killed 26 people in Manheim, Germany when a CH47 fell out of the air at an airshow. Walnut particles grounded every CH47 on the planet for a time till they figured out what the heck was going on. Long story short, due to insufficient cleaning, the particles plugged an oiling manifold on the main (rear) transmission output shaft causing a bearing failure which allowed the drive shaft that connected front and rear rotor gear boxes to run-out and cut itself in half. No power to front rotors, rotor blades collided at altitude.
Point is, no matter what media you choose, a thorough cleaning is mandatory. Chemical cleaning would be safer.

[HTM101]

Here's my intake manifold cleaning process:
a. 1st blasting is with stainless steel grit for initial cleaning.
b. 2nd blasting is stainless steel round shot, average size .004-.007" diameter, for peening and lustre.
c. Washing with 13 HP pressure washer; 25 degree nozzle pattern, 3500 psi and 4 gallons per minute of water.

All of those steps take a lot of time, and then the finished surface is easily stained once in the engine bay.  I decided to powder coat the tunnel wedge intake, and the pair of Blue Thunder competition valve covers.  I used a 5% low gloss clear powder coat and the result was excellent.  Now all that's necessary to clean off finger prints, drops of sweat, oil mist and dirt is a shot of Formula 409 or something similar and a paper towel.

[Drew Pojedinec]

I know this thread has been dead for a long time.

So I got 50lbs of soda and 50lbs of Garnet in 100grit.

Obviously the soda I had to use outside, it was messy, painful and probably costs $15-$20 an intake to do on account of the media not being reusable.
I still chose to not glass bead, as I've had it get stuck in threads and the like and I just don't trust my ability to clean it.  Maybe if I had some massive washer I would try it, but I have what I have to work with.

The 2x4 intake was done with soda, the 3x2 intake was done with garnet.
The garnet seems to polish the surface a bit more, and I can use it in my cabinet (tho it is slightly dusty compared to glass beads).

IMG_1003 by Drew Pojedinec, on Flickr

IMG_1002 by Drew Pojedinec, on Flickr

IMG_1001 by Drew Pojedinec, on Flickr


I think I'll further my experiments with Garnet.  It does NOT get stuck anywhere that I can see, simple air appears to remove it, water probably more so.  Right out of the blast cabinet I threaded bolts into hole and no evidence of grittiness, etc.  It does make it whiter and less aluminum looking.  I will probably go and find a few different grits to play with.  I like being able to use my cabinet as the work isn't weather dependent. 

Hard to tell from these photos, but the soda did not remove embedded dirt, I had to scrub with a stainless brush and brake cleaner for a long time and reblast and it still left some mottling.

Another garnet bonus is I did a few carb bowls and dichromated them, they came out very nice, tho I lowered the air pressure to 40psi as garnet it "cuttier" than glass beads.  Not having to switch media is a bonus as I just have one cabinet.

Anyway, figured I'd report some findings.

Drew

[Stangman]

They both look good Drew. The color difference I think is normal,I don’t think the aluminum
Intakes are all the same color. I originally sand blasted my intake then power washed the crap out
of it. Then bought clear coat from Eastwood and sprayed it came out sweet.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Hrm, clearcoat might be cool.  I'll have to play with that.

I ended up going and putting the 2x4 in the blast cabinet and hit it with the garnet, it assumed the same appearance as the 3x2.  Either way it's nicer than when I started.  Just waiting on an air cleaner, linkage, fuel log, and a pcv block plate and I can ship it out to Australia.

IMG_0530 by Drew Pojedinec, on Flickr

IMG_0716 by Drew Pojedinec, on Flickr


Either way, just documenting my findings, so maybe someone else might save some time or money experimenting.  I make a little selling carbs, etc so I don't mind buying 4 different media and throwing 3 of them away

[Heo]

I had to check garnet up in the dictionary....MR fancy smancy using
gemstones in his blasting cabinet no cheap glasbeads here


(just pulling your chain Drew )

[Stangman]

Holy crap Drew you got a couple of carbs don’t you, do you have a bunch of 2x4 medium riser intakes

[Drew Pojedinec]

Holy crap Drew you got a couple of carbs don’t you, do you have a bunch of 2x4 medium riser intakes

I wish..... seriously, if I had ten of them right now I could sell them.  Folks are hungry and BT is just like "meh"
As far as a lot of carbs, those are just the generics, I have probably 50 or so 1850-1's at any time.  This year I think I've restored and turned out somewhere between 20-30 sets of 2x4 carbs, probably more, I just haven't bothered counting. 

Heo, Garnet apparently will not embed and fall out later, it really isn't any more expensive than glass beads.  It breaks down faster, so I'll be replacing $80 worth every 4 months instead of every 6months.

[Heo]

I know, probably the most common and cheapest gemstone there is
more like a mineral but sounds fancy .. i use no fake
glas beads, real jewels here.....Ahhhh i should not try to tell a joke
in a strange language

[Falcon67]

Drew's place is where all 1850s go to die and be re-born.

I've glass beaded one intake - like Jay, got all the gook out of the runners first but just blasted away.  Put it in a tub with hot soapy water and scrubbed good, rinse, air dry, do over, blow out - no noted problems.  Runs fine, engine didn't explode.  Should have, I read it on the Internet.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Well Chris, I’m sure you understand my situation. I’m willing to risk stuff on my engine that I wouldn’t dare risk on a customer engine.

Anyway, just documenting findings and maybe helping someone else make an educated decision for their own stuff.
I’m enjoying doing these full “drop in” intake/carb setups.

[chris401]

No aircraft engine manufacturer or authorized rebuilder is allowed to use any glass beads.

An AEC tech bulletin (one I could not copy as a PDF here!):

Title: Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material

Technical portions are approved by Airmotive Engineering Corp.
T.N. No.: 09-2
Page: 1 of 2
Issued: 2-10-10
Revision: 0
1.0 PURPOSE: To help prevent engine failures
2.0 SCOPE: To alert technicians and mechanics about the perils related to glass beads
3.0 APPLICATION: Maintenance of aircraft piston engines.
4.0 REFERENCE: Engine Manufacturer’s overhaul manuals and service bulletins, service
instructions and service letters (Continuing Airworthiness Instructions) should always be
consulted as the principal authority for any engine overhaul and maintenance information.
5.0 DISCUSSION: One of the methods used by technicians and mechanics to clean component parts
is to shot blast using glass beads. This procedure has some benefits over other cleaning
procedures, but all of the benefits pale in comparison to the devastation that glass beads cause
when they are introduced in any manner into the inner workings of an aircraft piston engine. Even
one glass bead can cause significant damage before it breaks up into glass dust. If it is trapped in a
bearing it does its damage and then can re-circulate to do some more.
Many shops keep glass bead blast media and only use it to clean external parts. Others believe
that proper cleaning will eliminate the hazard. There are two axioms that should be posted in
every engine shop:
1. If glass beads are any where in any quantity in an aircraft repair facility, they will end up
in aircraft engines!
2. The only thing that loosens up and moves glass bead media from the nooks and crannies
of aircraft engines and into areas where they cause the most harm is hot engine oil!

Most engine overhaulers or repairers have experienced problems related to glass beads. However,
many were never aware of the root cause for their problems, and either gave up on the search for a
cause or attributed the cause to something else. This is because glass beads will defy cleaning
efforts and are difficult to identify after the damage is done. Airmotive Engineering Corp. and
Engine Components, Inc. have experienced the problems caused by glass bead blast media many
times over the years. Because of these experiences (i.e. warranty claims), our technicians have
developed highly effective evaluation techniques, and it is rare that positive evidence of glass
beads cannot be found.
T.N. No. 09-2
Revision 0
Dangers of contamination from Glass Bead Material
Page 2 of 2
 The photograph below shows glass beads that were solvent washed from behind piston rings of
cylinders sent back to ECi for warranty consideration. The pistons, rings, cylinder bores, and
bearings were severely damaged and unserviceable.
Photo 1: Glass Beads in Engine Oil and Solvent

6.0 Conclusion: It is of utmost importance that glass beads not be used in any manner to clean piston
engine parts. Even one glass bead can cause significant damage, and failure to comply with this
instruction will result in denial of a warranty cl

Re: continentalmotors.aero/xPublications/xService%20Bulletins/ECi%20Archives/09-2/

I rest my case that unless one can almost surgically clean, even an intake, from 100% of all glass beads, other media is preferred.

Glad I clicked this link. I used glass beads on my engine parts because I was instructed to use it at work. I cleaned rods and rocker arms in a glass cabinet before shot pin and refinish. Barry's experience in perticular was educational.