Author Topic: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm  (Read 5320 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Pentroof

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 214
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #15 on: July 07, 2018, 07:30:27 PM »
Can you unbolt and push the transmission back an inch or so to disengage it from the flexplate.  Just enough to start it up without the converter spinning?

How does one go about starting an FE once the transmission (and starter bolted to the bellhousing) is pushed back?

The guy in charge of answering the phone at TCI suggested I back out the studs from the converter. If I were to entertain this idea, how much can the converter push back into the pump? I think 1/2 AN inch would do.
« Last Edit: July 07, 2018, 07:34:44 PM by Pentroof »
Jim

Barry_R

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1915
    • View Profile
    • Survival Motorsports
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #16 on: July 07, 2018, 09:11:29 PM »
creativity, some longer bolts and a stack of flat washers...this is only a one time try it sort of deal

My427stang

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3929
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #17 on: July 08, 2018, 06:47:29 AM »
The issue with the Ford design is that the studs will hit the flywheel, I have never had to pull a converter stud out of a Ford, but in theory, if you could, you shouldn't have to back the tranny up.  The pilot would be close, but I think it would work.  The issue would be keeping it from sliding forward again as you revved the engine.  If it did, it would spin up and being unbolted likely make scary noises as you are listening for less scary noises LOL Not to mention, you still won't really know the cause, just maybe the location.

I would have to guess, unbalanced converter, wrong converter pilot size, or bent/broken/wrong/poorly seated flexplate. Although I do agree you could fire it, I am not sure you are going to get anywhere with the test

I'd likely slide the tranny back and drop the flywheel and pull the converter and see what you can see.
---------------------------------
Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

Pentroof

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 214
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #18 on: July 08, 2018, 04:07:11 PM »
Thanks Ross. I did end up pulling all 4 converter bolts today. The converter would only push back enough to prove the drain plug would still be an issue, even if I did pull the studs.

I also removed the fan to rule out itself and the water pump...I know, but I was hoping for an easy way out.

I’ve decided to pull the transmission. I just haven’t decided if today is the day. This brand new POS from TCI just has me in a bad mood. The drops of ATF at the Bell mouth are telling me I’m at least adding a seal to the list as well. Probably getting abused by the TC.

Well, it’s on the lift and I have a tranny lift too, so no excuses. It’s a beautiful day here too. I should be out in the Cyclone, not cursing TCI. I’ll just crank the tunes and grab a beer.

Jim

Pentroof

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 214
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #19 on: July 09, 2018, 09:11:02 PM »
Well, no obvious defects. The converter has a slight wear mark around half of the hub, but nothing that can be felt with a fingernail.
The hub measures 1.995". Not sure what it should be, but there was quite a bit of fluid inside the bell.

I'm not a slushbox guy, so how much should the converter move back and forth once it's bottomed out into the pump? What I mean is if you were rocking it With both hands as if checking for bad wheel bearings.

The flexplate is correct, but it looks really cheap to me. It's a stamped piece purchased from Mac's. The stamping markings aren't completely even. I haven't pulled it yet, but will likely replace it even if it's flat.

I'm also going to buy a new converter. I've called every transmission shop within 80 miles and none of them have the ability to balance a converter.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 09:13:23 PM by Pentroof »
Jim

Barry_R

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1915
    • View Profile
    • Survival Motorsports
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #20 on: July 09, 2018, 10:20:12 PM »

I'm also going to buy a new converter. I've called every transmission shop within 80 miles and none of them have the ability to balance a converter.

Try an engine shop.  I've never done a converter, but our balancer will accommodate all kinds of stuff and we have balanced flywheels, clutch discs, pulleys, and machine parts.

temarey

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 22
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #21 on: July 09, 2018, 10:30:57 PM »
Check that the converter hub is centered with the pump hub.
I have seen them not match and it causes odd vibrations.

Pentroof

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 214
    • View Profile
Re: Yet another problem: bad vibration between 1700 and 1900 rpm
« Reply #22 on: July 10, 2018, 10:58:53 AM »
.
I took a quick pic this morning of the flexplate quality. I had forgotten that the holes for the bolts had to be deburred. All of the holes on this were die punched, not milled or drilled.

You can also see that the stamping dies are a 2 piece configuration and the 2 pieces didn't produce equal forces. I can feel a ridge at these locations. I'm beginning to think the flexplate may be forcing the converter to walk around, but I'll need to pull it and check it for runout.

In any event, I have a Hughes converter, PA flexplate and Timken seal ordered and they'll be here tomorrow.

Jim