Author Topic: Mono leaf and CalTrac kit for street use (Read 9689 times)

N2950H · « **on:** May 22, 2018, 01:28:15 PM »

I'm looking into options for making my 63 Galaxie boxtop hook when the new motor is complete. It is currently completely stock but I know that's not going to work with 600-700hp. I would love to put a mini-tub on it but I'm not sure yet if I have the appetite for cutting into this particular car just so I can put some 315 drag radials on some 10" wheels. Still debating that.

In the meantime, I came across this mono leaf springs and CalTrac traction bar kit. I know it is billed as a street/strip kit, but is this a decent option for something that is being built primarily as a cruiser that will be occasionally ripped on in the streets? I'm not going to be doing hard launches with any regularity but I want it to hook decently when I do romp on it. What I absolutely don't want something that will seriously sacrifice ride quality when cruising.

e philpott · « **Reply #1 on:** May 22, 2018, 01:32:57 PM »

I don't know how the Split Leaf rides myself ? But You can always put your Cal Tracs on the stock springs if you don't like the ride , it still going to take a drag radial to make the Cal Tracs work

andyf · « **Reply #2 on:** May 22, 2018, 02:24:45 PM »

Depends what you mean by "ride quality". If you are talking about stiffness or harshness then you solve that with spring rate and shocks. So that isn't a big problem. Depending on how much work you are willing to do you can either slide under the car and adjust the shocks for street driving, and/or change the spring rate when going to the track.

If you include noise in the ride quality bucket then you'll have an issue. The Cal Trac setup has a bunch of moving parts which tend to rattle around while driving. So the back end of the car will sound like a bucket of bolts when you hit a bump.

N2950H · « **Reply #3 on:** May 22, 2018, 02:32:13 PM »

I definitely would include noise in the ride quality bucket. I'll have to get my hands on a pair to see if anything can be done about that.

cattleFEeder · « **Reply #4 on:** May 22, 2018, 03:10:50 PM »

https://www.calvertracing.com/index.php
Just call and talk to the people at calvert themselves, on a 63 you have torch out the bottom of the box at the front of the leaf spring and then reinforce it. I have several sets on different cars and they are fine on the street.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #5 on:** May 22, 2018, 03:50:57 PM »

Quote from: andyf on May 22, 2018, 02:24:45 PM

If you include noise in the ride quality bucket then you'll have an issue. The Cal Trac setup has a bunch of moving parts which tend to rattle around while driving. So the back end of the car will sound like a bucket of bolts when you hit a bump.

I would say that statement is untrue. There are not "a bunch" of moving parts, there are a pair of rod ends on each end of the bar, they don't rattle, and the pivoting plate with the bar on the top that keeps the leaf spring from winding up. The CalTracs are adjustable for the amount of preload that you put in them, if you adjust them without preload ( clearance between the bar above the spring ) then you may occasionally hear as the bar contacts the spring. Most people I would guess have them adjusted with at least 0 or some preload. The main purpose of the CalTracs is to keep from spring wind up and the uncontrolled wheel hop that can occur, which can be dangerous and break parts. The CalTracs are not miracle workers - they aren't going to make you dead hook on the street with street tires on a 600hp car. They will help considerably and will eliminate wheel hop and cut down on broken parts. On the race track their performance has been proven.

I bought my first CalTracs over 20 years ago, Calvert didn't offer the mono leaf springs at that time, I have that car on the stock Ford leaf springs. I have mono leafs for the car I have going together now, I think they have some benefits, including the ability to change the spring sections to taylor to your vehicle and less weight. The CalTracs will stiffen the suspension, the amount will depend on how much preload you put in them.

jayb · « **Reply #6 on:** May 22, 2018, 04:06:07 PM »

I have the Cal-Tracs and monoleaf setup on three cars, all street driven, and only get an occasional clank from the back when going over big bumps, which I don't find objectionable. The ride is fine with that setup, and the rear roll stiffness seems to be much improved over the stock leaf springs and shocks. I would not hesitate to recommend them for any street car.

mbrunson427 · « **Reply #7 on:** May 22, 2018, 04:17:19 PM »

Every car we have on the road has a set of the cal-tracs on it. For street use we back them off 1/2-1 turn from the engagement point. Ride quality suffers if you don't back the bars off to an un-engaged position. For track use, I adjust them 2 turns past the engagement point. Was told by Calvert that it's a good place to start for adjusting them, it's always worked so I've never gotten any more fancy that that for setting up the bars.

fastback 427 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 22, 2018, 05:22:41 PM »

I love my caltracs. Ride is a little stiff but the adjustable shoxks help a lot.

james · « **Reply #9 on:** May 22, 2018, 05:33:24 PM »

Quote from: jayb on May 22, 2018, 04:06:07 PM

I have the Cal-Tracs and monoleaf setup on three cars, all street driven, and only get an occasional clank from the back when going over big bumps, which I don't find objectionable. The ride is fine with that setup, and the rear roll stiffness seems to be much improved over the stock leaf springs and shocks. I would not hesitate to recommend them for any street car.

How good are they for launching/traction with a set of ET street tires? And what do you use for traction on the 3 cars pictured in all your post? Thanks!

jayb · « **Reply #10 on:** May 22, 2018, 06:22:36 PM »

I think the Cal-Tracs are as good as you can get with a leaf spring setup. The Mach 1 and the Galaxie use the Cal-Tracs, monoleaf springs, and Calvert Racing shocks. The Shelby clone uses a four link setup.

hyper64 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 22, 2018, 06:35:46 PM »

I have Cal-Tracs on a 1964 Custom with a set of M/T 295/55 15 ET Street, car launches very well.

hyper64 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 22, 2018, 06:45:46 PM »

My car also has Calvert mono leaf springs, sliders, and Calvert single adjustable rear shocks. I'm with Jay simple system with a proven record.

cjshaker · « **Reply #13 on:** May 22, 2018, 08:38:39 PM »

What is considered "acceptable" is a very subjective thing. What one person considers fine, another person might find very objectionable.

I have the split mono-leafs and CalTracs on my Mach 1. In my opinion, they do make the ride considerably harsher, even backed off on the engagement point. Adjustable shocks do help, but only to the extent of how much bouncing goes on after the initial shock of a bump or dip. In my case, I found double adjustable shocks were much better, being able to control extension and rebound. I switched from the standard Calvert shocks, to QA-1 double adjustables. Still, it's not anything close to what you'd feel on a stock type suspension. Stiffer springs are just part of the deal, and there's no way around the fact that it affects ride quality in a negative way. If you used soft springs with the Calverts, you're still going to get some wrap up between the roller and rear axle mount, which is kinda defeating the purpose of having them in the first place.

Having said that, I can live with them just fine. I don't mind the harsher ride, or the occasional noise from the roller contacting the springs. But the car is pretty noisey anyway with a roudy cam, headers and Borla mufflers. Performance muscle cars are supposed to be noisey though.

Falcon67 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 22, 2018, 09:54:34 PM »

Mine are set for the track and I don't change anything for street driving. They make no appreciable noise. The right side has a bit of preload and the left is set for just tagging the spring with a full load in the front seat. The only time they feel "loose" is when I lift after crossing the top end.

preaction · « **Reply #15 on:** May 22, 2018, 11:27:59 PM »

Quote from: andyf on May 22, 2018, 02:24:45 PM

Depends what you mean by "ride quality". If you are talking about stiffness or harshness then you solve that with spring rate and shocks. So that isn't a big problem. Depending on how much work you are willing to do you can either slide under the car and adjust the shocks for street driving, and/or change the spring rate when going to the track.

If you include noise in the ride quality bucket then you'll have an issue. The Cal Trac setup has a bunch of moving parts which tend to rattle around while driving. So the back end of the car will sound like a bucket of bolts when you hit a bump.

Either you don't have Cal tracks or you need to look under your car immediately.

Red Lehr · « **Reply #16 on:** May 23, 2018, 05:16:51 AM »

Not to hi-jack this post , but I am also in the process of installing a set of Caltracs also at this time. These are going on my 64 Galaxie and I am using stock springs for the time being. My main concern is how others have reinforced the front spring box after cutting the bottom of the box out to fit the Caltrac bracket in there, or did you make a new front bracket to house the Caltracs....
We would greatly appreciate any pictures and description of what others have done to modify these 63-64 Galaxie front spring boxes.
The way it looks to me, you could cut the bottom of the box out and slip the Caltrac bracket up in there but the new bracket might need to be welded to the spring box for support

ALSO, what shocks or adjustable shocks work the best on this application ?
I've learned to ask before I do anything stupid....
Thanks as always for the help fellas....
Red

babybolt · « **Reply #17 on:** May 23, 2018, 07:27:02 AM »

Could probably use section of rubber hose sliced on side and slide over the roller where it pushes against the spring.

e philpott · « **Reply #18 on:** May 23, 2018, 10:00:35 AM »

I've had mine since late 1996 , Jon made me different spacers for my skinny 63 Fairlane springs , I never run them with less than a 1/2 to 1 turn preload , you never know when your going to need them on street , I sure don't hear any noise over the exhaust or old style Detroit Locker .... I also cut and reinforced the front spring mount

Tommy-T · « **Reply #19 on:** May 23, 2018, 11:30:16 AM »

Tubb it!

Falcon67 · « **Reply #20 on:** May 23, 2018, 11:39:37 AM »

Here's my exhaust - Tuned to eliminate any special noises from the suspension.

6667fan · « **Reply #21 on:** May 23, 2018, 01:31:51 PM »

I don’t know what changes are made from stock when Cal-Tracs go on a full size car but on an intermediate the rubber insulators go away as part of the install. That equals more noise/ harshness than a stock set-up. As stated above it is subjective, you may or may not get used to it. JMHO JB

N2950H · « **Reply #22 on:** May 23, 2018, 07:31:54 PM »

Appreciate all the info guys, I think I'm going to give these a shot.

jayb · « **Reply #23 on:** May 23, 2018, 08:33:41 PM »

Quote from: Red Lehr on May 23, 2018, 05:16:51 AM

Not to hi-jack this post , but I am also in the process of installing a set of Caltracs also at this time. These are going on my 64 Galaxie and I am using stock springs for the time being. My main concern is how others have reinforced the front spring box after cutting the bottom of the box out to fit the Caltrac bracket in there, or did you make a new front bracket to house the Caltracs....
We would greatly appreciate any pictures and description of what others have done to modify these 63-64 Galaxie front spring boxes.
The way it looks to me, you could cut the bottom of the box out and slip the Caltrac bracket up in there but the new bracket might need to be welded to the spring box for support
ALSO, what shocks or adjustable shocks work the best on this application ?
I've learned to ask before I do anything stupid....
Thanks as always for the help fellas....
Red

Red, the new bracket that comes with the Caltracs has to pivot, so you can't just weld it in place. On my Galaxie I moved the rear leaf springs inboard for tire clearance so my setup is not going to be like yours. If I were you, I think I'd cut the bottom of the leaf spring bracket away and then weld a reinforcement piece in over the top or front side, and then just leave the bottom open. I basically did that on my car (although I cut the frame to move the spring inboard too), and it hasn't given me any trouble.

cammerfe · « **Reply #24 on:** May 23, 2018, 10:56:15 PM »

Several days after taking delivery of my then-new '64 Custom 427 combo, we went cruising---out to Ted's Drive-in at Woodward and Square Lake Road. After sitting for a while we left, and after turning south on Woodward, I put my 'foot in the fan' and power-shifted into second gear. Luckily, there was no one along side of me, because the rear spring wrap-up and unload caused the rear end to go sideways so significantly that the car had changed lanes by the time I had it straightened-out.

I bought a set of Traction Masters and installed them the next weekend. I never needed anything more to control the traction---even when running M&H Racemaster slicks---about all that would fit with the stock wheel tubs.

They might be an alternative to Cal-Tracs. They make no noise and don't change the ride.

KS

Falcon67 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 24, 2018, 08:54:35 AM »

Yes, but like South Side Machine bars on a leaf car you can only "tune" them with shims. The Cals require Rancho adjustable shocks for full benefit and between the bars and the shocks you have a lot of adjustment capability to bring the car around to what works for it.

cjshaker · « **Reply #26 on:** May 24, 2018, 09:16:48 AM »

There's also a little bit of a difference between a stock Lowriser (assuming it wasn't a factory lightweight Highriser?), and a built 600-700 HP stroker.

N2950H · « **Reply #27 on:** May 24, 2018, 10:59:28 AM »

Since this car is primarily built for cruising, I'm not looking for max traction. When I said I want it to hook, I just meant that I don't to have to feather the gas too much when doing a little spirited driving on the street. Yes it's going to spin the tires, I know that. I'm just trying to minimize it.

I realize there is only so much that can be done with DRs and stock-ish suspension...but I hope something like these CalTracs and 10" ET Streets will keep me happy on the street.

e philpott · « **Reply #28 on:** May 24, 2018, 12:19:03 PM »

Quote from: N2950H on May 24, 2018, 10:59:28 AM

but I hope something like these CalTracs and 10" ET Streets will keep me happy on the street.

It should be fine , ET Streets are so much better than regular street tires there is no comparison

Falcon67 · « **Reply #29 on:** May 24, 2018, 02:53:05 PM »

X2. Soft compound, zero tread wear rating

I prefer the Hoosier DRs but either should work.

N2950H · « **Reply #30 on:** May 24, 2018, 06:53:10 PM »

I was considering the Hoosiers as well, but those don't look safe on the street. I live in Seattle where the streets are often wet so I need something with a little more of a tread pattern.

I currently have 275 radials back there and I have about a finger width between the inside sidewall and the leaf springs, and about the same between the outside sidewall and the fender. I may end up shortening the axle and minitubbing it so I can fit a 315 or 325 DR, we'll see.

Phil Brown · « **Reply #31 on:** May 24, 2018, 11:07:32 PM »

Quote from: N2950H on May 24, 2018, 06:53:10 PM

I was considering the Hoosiers as well, but those don't look safe on the street. I live in Seattle where the streets are often wet so I need something with a little more of a tread pattern.

I currently have 275 radials back there and I have about a finger width between the inside sidewall and the leaf springs, and about the same between the outside sidewall and the fender. I may end up shortening the axle and minitubbing it so I can fit a 315 or 325 DR, we'll see.

ET streets are not much of what I would call wet street friendly despite there "tread pattern"
I think that tread depth starts where most "street tires" show there wear bars
Don't get me wrong, GREAT tire just watch the water

Red Lehr · « **Reply #32 on:** May 25, 2018, 04:41:20 AM »

Red, the new bracket that comes with the Caltracs has to pivot, so you can't just weld it in place. On my Galaxie I moved the rear leaf springs inboard for tire clearance so my setup is not going to be like yours. If I were you, I think I'd cut the bottom of the leaf spring bracket away and then weld a reinforcement piece in over the top or front side, and then just leave the bottom open. I basically did that on my car (although I cut the frame to move the spring inboard too), and it hasn't given me any trouble.
[/quote]

Thanks for the info Jay, I'll be working on this project over the weekend. I'll be honest, I'm not new to welding but I've never welded under a car before and with the fuel pump being close I get a little apprehensive ....LOL

scott foxwell · « **Reply #33 on:** May 25, 2018, 07:35:44 AM »

I have MT 275 ET Streets for my 67 Fairlane...yet to be run, also have CalTracs to install. One thing I see is where some leave the rubber insulator around the leaf spring when running CalTracs. Seems to me that takes away form the function of the bars. I'm probably going to start with the factory springs mostly due to budget, but anticipate running the split leafs in the future. This has been a good thread.

N2950H · « **Reply #34 on:** May 25, 2018, 07:06:57 PM »

Quote from: jayb on May 23, 2018, 08:33:41 PM

On my Galaxie I moved the rear leaf springs inboard for tire clearance so my setup is not going to be like yours.

Jay, if you wouldn't mind posting a photo showing how you moved the leaf springs inboard, I'd love to see it. I've been contemplating doing the same but not quite sure how to go about it.

jayb · « **Reply #35 on:** May 25, 2018, 08:35:50 PM »

These pictures aren't the greatest but they will give you the idea:

Falcon67 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 29, 2018, 08:26:49 AM »

Quote from: N2950H on May 24, 2018, 06:53:10 PM

I was considering the Hoosiers as well, but those don't look safe on the street. I live in Seattle where the streets are often wet so I need something with a little more of a tread pattern.

I currently have 275 radials back there and I have about a finger width between the inside sidewall and the leaf springs, and about the same between the outside sidewall and the fender. I may end up shortening the axle and minitubbing it so I can fit a 315 or 325 DR, we'll see.

If you read the Hoosier literature - they are not sold as "street tires". You can run 'em like that, but they publish the proper disclaimer.

1. Are my drag tires street legal?
ANSWER: No. All Hoosier Racing Tire products are designed for a specific purpose. Consult with Hoosier Racing Tire Corp. for specific fitment and application. Utilizing Hoosier Tires in any form outside of their intended use constitutes misuse of the product and can cause SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH. Hoosier Racing Tire products are designed and manufactured for racing purposes only, within a closed course designed for organized competition. Not for recreational use.

Use your Hoosiers in dry weather on dry pavement and should not have a problem. They do hook - my 60' is the same with either their DRs or their slicks and a little better than M/T slicks. In a low HP car (400 and down more or less), maybe good for as much as 200 passes depending on your burnout procedure.

HvyFt4spd · « **Reply #37 on:** May 30, 2018, 03:24:53 PM »

O/T I spy one of Uncle Dale's bone creepers, those things used to be injection molded in the basement of the Packard shop. I lost count of the times he turned red and nearly stroked out seeing me use a pitpad or piece cardboard instead. lol

N2950H · « **Reply #38 on:** May 30, 2018, 11:21:06 PM »

Man, I'm just baffled. Since I want to go with a much wider tire out back, I spent most of the evening researching mini tub kits, offset shackles, and other methods of relocating the rear leaf springs for a 63/64 Galaxie...but I am coming up absolutely empty. Lots of hits for Falcons and Fairlanes, but no dice on the Galaxies. I guess I've been spoiled coming from the world of Fox Body Mustangs and Jeeps where there is no shortage of aftermarket parts available. Am I off my rocker, or does a guy have to completely fabricate a 63/64 Galaxie mini tub from scratch?

I don't know how much this would help my situation, but another thing I've been considering lately is the Ridetech 4-link setup and coil overs (not the airbags). I can't confirm without seeing it in person, but it seems like this would give me a bit more clearance on the inboard side. If this plus a shortened rear axle were enough to let me fit some 315/60-15 ET Streets, that is a likely path forward for this car.

jayb · « **Reply #39 on:** May 31, 2018, 08:18:42 AM »

I think you'd have to fabricate a minitub, but for what its worth with the leaf springs moved inboard as shown in my earlier pictures, I was able to fit a 29.5/10.5-15 Hoosier slick in the factory wheelwells. The car ran 9.50s with that setup.

Falcon67 · « **Reply #40 on:** May 31, 2018, 08:35:39 AM »

If you feel the need for a larger contact patch, you would look for a taller tire, not necessarily a wider one.

N2950H · « **Reply #41 on:** May 31, 2018, 10:37:42 AM »

Quote from: jayb on May 31, 2018, 08:18:42 AM

I think you'd have to fabricate a minitub, but for what its worth with the leaf springs moved inboard as shown in my earlier pictures, I was able to fit a 29.5/10.5-15 Hoosier slick in the factory wheelwells. The car ran 9.50s with that setup.

Thanks Jay, appreciate the info. Since I have to start somewhere, I'll probably order some 295/55-15 ET Streets (or perhaps the taller 295/65-15) and see if I can stuff them in there with the current backspacing on my 15x8 Cragars...and then go with a different backspacing if required. Your Hoosiers have a 13.0" section width whereas the ET Streets I'm looking at are only 11.9" and 12.0." If I do have to move the leaf spring in, I will probably try and talk you into taking a better pic of how you did the forward attach point as that's hard to see in the pics you posted. Then if this isn't enough traction I'll entertain more drastic measures.

Thanks for the input, guys.

Falcon67 · « **Reply #42 on:** May 31, 2018, 11:17:48 AM »

Keep an eye out for tire growth also. ET Streets are pretty much like the Hoosier DRs - slicks with a couple of grooves to meet some minimum DOT requirement. Maybe not a factor on your car but the Falcon has an issue with 28" slicks just touching ( and leaving rubber) on the trailing edge of the rocker panel at speed. The section just slightly rubs the leaf spring when just rolling around, but that narrows as the slick grows so no issues on the track.

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Author Topic: Mono leaf and CalTrac kit for street use (Read 9689 times)

scott foxwell