Author Topic: 1965 Ranchero 445 (Read 15430 times)

BOutlaw · « **on:** April 02, 2018, 08:37:36 PM »

1965 Ranchero, 3200 lbs, 3350 with me in it. Engine is Jay's magazine 445, including Comp 306 S cam with OEM adjustable rockers, BBM heads by Blair, 850 Quik Fuel from Blair. C6 with Greg Slack 4200 convertor, reverse shift, deep sump. 9 inch, 4:71 spool, straight axle, leaf springs and air shocks....Hoosier 28-1050s. Street/Strip car, mostly strip right now.
Best time so far was at GBO 7, Atmore Dragway, last month....1/8th mile.. 6.80, 1.49 60 ft. 99.6 mph
Having a blast, just switched to one of Jays adapters and a Yates 351 intake. Next gasser race is May 5th. Have not run the car with the adapter yet.

351crules · « **Reply #1 on:** April 02, 2018, 10:24:31 PM »

what intake is on it now....very interested in the results of the intake swap

BOutlaw · « **Reply #2 on:** April 03, 2018, 09:53:44 AM »

Removed the Eddie Performer RPM intake and replaced with the Yates. Hope to make some passes this month. Will post results.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #3 on:** April 03, 2018, 10:04:53 AM »

GBO 6 pic, racing Wompin wagon 55 Nomad. I saw the wagon race in the 60s, been around forever. Bubba Cummins, the owner, super guy.
Trying to figure out how to post larger pics, so this was a test.

turbohunter · « **Reply #4 on:** April 03, 2018, 10:55:49 AM »

Cool as hell.

machoneman · « **Reply #5 on:** April 03, 2018, 11:01:33 AM »

Very cool!

Stangman · « **Reply #6 on:** April 03, 2018, 01:51:52 PM »

Yes it looks like that picture could have been taken in the 60s. Very nice

TomP · « **Reply #7 on:** April 03, 2018, 07:20:19 PM »

Very cool, seems to run well too. What did you do to get those big ti...umm "Tars" under the back?

(edit to use correct Div 2 terminology!)

BOutlaw · « **Reply #8 on:** April 04, 2018, 08:07:28 AM »

The big "Tars" under the back was possible due to shortened 9 inch housing, new wheelhouse in bed, and cutting through half the width of the unibody frame rails over axle housing and boxing. I also moved the axle housing aft 1 inch by redrilling the leaf springs bolt holes 1 inch aft. The 28X 10.5 is about as big a tire as Ill be able to get in the wheel well, especially diameter wise.

ec164 · « **Reply #9 on:** April 05, 2018, 09:06:16 PM »

Cool looking Ranchero, good to hear your having fun.........Al

KMcCullah · « **Reply #10 on:** April 05, 2018, 10:15:37 PM »

Quote from: BOutlaw on April 03, 2018, 09:53:44 AM

Removed the Eddie Performer RPM intake and replaced with the Yates. Hope to make some passes this month. Will post results.

Another interested one here. Is this the Yates intake with the 4500 flange? Any porting?

What kind of tricks are in your C6? I'm planning to build one soon.

Damn nice Ranchero too! Starting to get the Gasser bug.

machoneman · « **Reply #11 on:** April 06, 2018, 04:54:32 AM »

Love the overall look and a great launcher too. But that ride is just screaming for a great paint job and some lettering! Any plans?

Quote from: BOutlaw on April 02, 2018, 08:37:36 PM

1965 Ranchero, 3200 lbs, 3350 with me in it. Engine is Jay's magazine 445, including Comp 306 S cam with OEM adjustable rockers, BBM heads by Blair, 850 Quik Fuel from Blair. C6 with Greg Slack 4200 convertor, reverse shift, deep sump. 9 inch, 4:71 spool, straight axle, leaf springs and air shocks....Hoosier 28-1050s. Street/Strip car, mostly strip right now.
Best time so far was at GBO 7, Atmore Dragway, last month....1/8th mile.. 6.80, 1.49 60 ft. 99.6 mph
Having a blast, just switched to one of Jays adapters and a Yates 351 intake. Next gasser race is May 5th. Have not run the car with the adapter yet.

jayb · « **Reply #12 on:** April 06, 2018, 08:14:52 AM »

My local porting guy ported the intake and intake adapter together for Brad. It is an Edelbrock 2863 intake, which has the Dominator flange. Should be real strong from 4500 RPM up. Brad, what RPM are you currently running in that combination? You might need a bit looser converter to really take advantage of what that intake has to offer, but it will be interesting to see how it does on your existing combination...

Edit: Oops, I think I mis-remembered this, I think it is actually an Edelbrock 2992 intake with the 4150 flange...

BOutlaw · « **Reply #13 on:** April 06, 2018, 01:52:59 PM »

Trans was a TCI street fighter, and it came with the worst servo Ford offered for the C6, so a local guy, Nelson Temple, installed the "R"? servo and manual shift valve body. Transmission shifts great now.

The car started out as a street car but has just morphed into a drag car so I'm still reluctant/scared to letter the car and not sure of a name for the thing anyway. Lettering may happen, just haven't decided on that yet..

Jay, the convertor is a 4200 and seems to work good for what it is but I'm thinking I may need to go to a 5000 or so, especially with the new intake. Cant wait to run the thing....The miss I encountered with this whole over-rev situation may just turn out to be the sorry ass MSD cap and rotor. I also think it may need to be phased as the "hit" on the cap terminal is on the side/corner of all the terminals, not centered. I may do the drill a hole in the cap and use a timing light to see how bad it really is and purchase the adjustable rotor that MSD offers. My old MSD cap ( from over 5 years ago) has copper or brass? cap terminals and the new ones are aluminum I guess. The new plastic cap material even looks cheap.
FYI, I have rev limiter set at 6400, trying to shift at 6-6100....I also have a new 31 spline 4:86 spool, N case to install from Quick Performance, but will need a new driveshaft for the 1350 joints so I haven't moved on that yet. Need to be sure I can receive DS before next race May 5th.

Any comments on phasing or a better quality MSD cap/rotor that may be offered, I'm all ears. I thought MSD offered a RACE cap and rotor but have been unsuccessful in finding one.

thanks for all the comments

fekbmax · « **Reply #14 on:** April 06, 2018, 02:10:24 PM »

Crank trigger + locked timing + easy peasy rotor phasing = let her eat...
Rotor phasing is in my opinion very important with any kind of multiple spark discharge ignition.
Very cool car, nice job..

e philpott · « **Reply #15 on:** April 06, 2018, 02:37:13 PM »

Cool car , Love the straight axles

BOutlaw · « **Reply #16 on:** April 06, 2018, 03:28:17 PM »

Keith, I actually had looked at the MSD flying magnet deal but from what I could tell they did not offer one for the FE series engines, only SBs and 429/460.
I also test ran the new engine before install with the Dura spark ignition and Im wondering if the larger cap of the Dura Spark might help with the spark scatter and the new crappy MSD caps. Its my understading that the MSD Digital 6AL box will work with the new duraSpark distributor I have. Im so green getting back into drag racing after so long, all this stuff is new to me and I have to read and ask questions to see what works. Thanks

jayb · « **Reply #17 on:** April 06, 2018, 05:10:50 PM »

Phasing the rotor will help, but one of the things that can hurt you with the MSD cap and rotor is that the rotor contact doesn't always make contact to the carbon nub in the center of the cap. Check your cap and make sure that the center black carbon contact nub is still pointed. If its not, and it has flattened out, then what you are seeing is wearing away of that carbon because the spark is having to jump from the center contact of the rotor to the carbon nub. Eventually they get so far apart that you start seeing a high RPM miss. This happened to me on day 5 of Drag Week in 2005; the car had been running low 10.60s and even a 10.55 all week, but suddenly on Friday it wanted to run 10.70s. Figured out later that it was the contact issue. When you buy a new MSD rotor, bend the tang UP so that it will contact the carbon nub in the middle of the cap. Then you won't have any problems.

CaptCobrajet · « **Reply #18 on:** April 06, 2018, 06:39:25 PM »

Hey Brad.....glad to see you are having fun! Before you change anything, move the rev limiter up to 67 or 6800 and see if your miss goes away. Often the tach and the MSD are not exactly the same. Your rev limiter will start taking out cylinders about 200 before whatever you have it set at. If your tach is a little different, you may just be bumping against the limiter at 6100 on your tach.

You can put a cap adapter and big cap on your MSD distributor. You just have to grind a couple of notches to hold the hooks in place. It works fine. Then, get the adjustable rotor for the big cap.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #19 on:** April 06, 2018, 06:40:28 PM »

Thanks Jay, I actually just checked the "nub" and installed a new rotor after a little tang bending, but I didn't have a new cap. I ordered 2 new MSD cap/rotor kits. Im anxious to check the phasing soon as it stops raining, maybe Sunday. I have an old cap to drill. Hopefully can make some runs next weekend, as this weekend is a washout. thanks again for all your help. The new adapter and intake went on great. Porting job looked great.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #20 on:** April 06, 2018, 06:49:19 PM »

Thanks Blair, that's really good info. I wasn't sure I should turn the engine over about 6100/6200 or so. I probably never told you how super pleased I am with the heads and the carb you did for me. I'm having a blast and the car seems to be doing great, even with my dumbass driving techniques...LOL...I'm still learning to stage consistently and even do a proper burnout but I'm slowly catching on...I guess,,,,,,,,,,,Mucho thanks to guys like you and Jay and the kind folks on this forum.

Posi67 · « **Reply #21 on:** April 06, 2018, 07:10:03 PM »

Agree with Blair on the rev limiter. I run Mallory stuff and have my high side at 7800. No, I don't want to go there but the tach doesn't jive with the limiter. It's out at least 300-400 RPM and I believe the Tell Tale in the tach is correct. Won't make it to the finish stripe set any lower. Also good info on the cap and rotor. Cool ride btw.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #22 on:** April 07, 2018, 09:35:01 AM »

Thanks Posi. Ill look for the big cap to. I appreciate all the feed back.

Any comments on a converter change that will help with the new intake and adapter? I will run with what I have for now (4200) but the intake probably wont see its full potential without a convertor change.

Thanks again for all assistance.

KMcCullah · « **Reply #23 on:** April 07, 2018, 11:00:04 AM »

Quote from: BOutlaw on April 06, 2018, 01:52:59 PM

Trans was a TCI street fighter, and it came with the worst servo Ford offered for the C6, so a local guy, Nelson Temple, installed the "R"? servo and manual shift valve body. Transmission shifts great now.

Good info, Brad. From all the reading I've done on building a hot rod C6, the "R" servo seems to be the popular one.

So your foot-braking this rig? No trans-brake in your manual valve body?

e philpott · « **Reply #24 on:** April 07, 2018, 11:40:18 AM »

Are you still running the 306S Cam ? Since your car is based off of the Falcon name wise how about Dirty Bird ?

BOutlaw · « **Reply #25 on:** April 08, 2018, 03:22:33 PM »

No trans brake...seems all the C6 trans brakes I read about were not reliable, but I don't know how reliable the posts/forum may have been either. If I go to a 5K convertor Ill have to do more research...

I like "Dirty Bird", a lot, but at this point I just cant pull the trigger on lettering, although I suspect I'm delaying the inevitable. Its becoming less and less a street car. LOL

Still running the 306 S and OEM rockers no less. Seems every time I check valve lash there's another rocker nut that won't hold lash. I only have one NOS rocker left so will be looking for some more. I did buy the OS nuts but unless the rocker is really worn I cant start the nuts. I have the OS nuts on two rockers now and they are working well. I log which rockers have been replaced and Ive replaced 7 rockers with new NOS so far.

Blair recommended the MSD big cap, like a Dura Spark, but looking at the engine today, sure looks like the big cap will interfere with the expansion tank. I broke the engine in with a Dura Spark but the engine did not have the expansion tank. Will the big cap adapter clear the expansion tank?

Thanks to all,

Rory428 · « **Reply #26 on:** April 08, 2018, 04:38:56 PM »

Regarding C6 transbrakes,back when I ran an automatic in my 428 powered Fairmont, I had a C6 with a reverse pattern, full manual transbrake valve body. I ran the transbrake valve body for maybe 8 or 9 seasons, and I never had any reliability issues at all. I ordered the valve body from the Ford Motorsport catalog, but I guess they were made by Art Carr, as there was the name "Art Carr" cast into the valve body. When I was racing the Fairmont in 1990 and 91, I ran the car in NHRA Super Street (10.90 ET index), which at that time, had a 2500 lb minimum weight along with a .400 sec "Pro" tree. With my car 700 lbs heavier than the minimum, at the Pro tree, the transbrake was kinda slow releasing, I had to use real short front tires to get RTs even close to the mid .400 range, usually was in the 470-.480 range, not very competitive even back then. After 2 years of losing 1rst round every race, I put in a delay box, and ran in Super Pro, which allowed electronics, and used the .500 Sportsman tree. With this setup, the Fairmont was very competitive, won many races, and was a constant top 5 finisher at years end. With the full tree, the fact that the transbrake was a bit slow was of no concern, and with the delay box, leaving off the top bulb, I normally ran between 1.060-1.080 seconds to get very steady and repeatable .500-.520 RTs. I believe since NHRA switched the Super Street class to a .500 sec Pro Tree, the old C6 and transbrake could be very competitive. One minor issue I did have with the Carr transbrake, was sometimes when I pressed the transbrake button, the car would roll forward a couple of inches before the trans locked up. Acouple of racers suggested that was due to some trapped air in the transbrake circuit. I found that by giving the transbrake button a couple of quick taps, to purge the air, the problem was fully eliminated. Most all of the competitive Ford powered Super street and Super Gas cars run Powerglides, I just refused to stick a Chevy trans in my Ford, and having driven several 9 second Super Gas cars, I am glad I never did. Almost as glad as when I sold the automatic and bought my Jerico 4 speed!

BOutlaw · « **Reply #27 on:** April 08, 2018, 08:10:06 PM »

Thank you Rory, the slow release issue is what I read about, and I figured since hardly anyone was racing a C6 anymore, no one was actively involved in developing C6 trans upgrades. I'm certainly not at that level, just racing for fun. Ill have to reread your post a dozen times to grasp exactly what you said. I'm certainly a novice at this and there is a limit on funds, so everything needs to count. I make bad decisions as it is, that's why I enjoy this forum so much, guys like you are free with good advice based on experience. I, like you, will not run a GM trans in my Ford, maybe a C4, but not a glide, hard headed ole man I guess.

OK, I'm gonna start the first reread of your post...I'm sure Ill have lots more questions.....Thank you

BOutlaw · « **Reply #28 on:** April 08, 2018, 08:14:29 PM »

BTW Rory, I opened/enlarged the pic of the Fairmont and all I can say is DAMN....looks pretty dang competitive to me, awesome pic..

Rory428 · « **Reply #29 on:** April 09, 2018, 12:19:54 AM »

Hard to believe that photo was taken almost 30 years ago! Appearance wise, it looks almost the same today. All the stickers were applied to magnetic vinyl, so they just lifted right off. If I would have decided to stay with an automatic, I likely would have gone to a C4, but back then the C4 was not very popular in racing, nor were the C4 to FE bellhousings at that point. But that C6 may have sucked some HP to operate, but it was very durable.Usually went 3 or 4 seasons between freshen ups, and typically still looked really good inside.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #30 on:** April 09, 2018, 01:55:47 PM »

I like the vinyl magnetic sticker idea. I'm not big on product endorsement because I'm not gonna get any contingency cash, but what a good idea for a name on side of car. I guess these car wrap vinyl sticker guys would be able to create a larger magnetic stick on, like your "Rory McNeil" sticker on the side.

Regarding the use of a C4, I considered that, but with the adapter and the trans it would have been way more than a C6, and since I'm just basically turning race gas into noise, it just wasn't the best financial decision. I have heard the C6 really robs HP and I really don't have any to waste, but I think the engine is in the 450 to 500 range and Im very happy with how it performs.

Thanks again for your comments

e philpott · « **Reply #31 on:** April 09, 2018, 02:37:37 PM »

If I named my car I would have " Torture Chamber " on it , lol , my Buddy's 57 Chevy Gasser is called the Dog by friends but the car says Junk Yard Dog and is on the cover of the latest Jegs catalog

BOutlaw · « **Reply #32 on:** April 10, 2018, 08:13:12 AM »

The 57 wagon on Jegs catalog is a way cool gasser. The name seems to fit the car, although it certainly doesn't look junky. I'm still searching for the right name. I guess Ill know it when I discover it...Ive never named a car, just called it what it is, like the "coupe" and the "ranchero".

I hope the nice weather holds thru the weekend, I want to test the ranchero, if possible, see if my "miss" is gone, and check the intake/adapter upgrade.

Thanks again to everyone for all the comments and advice.

manofmerc · « **Reply #33 on:** April 12, 2018, 04:22:18 AM »

As far as c-6 transbrakes go .A man in Canada Frank Merkel make the best trans brake to my knowledge .He can be found on the 429-460 forum I have his trans brake in my comet drag car and it has worked flawlessly .You don't seem to be ready for a trans brake but keep him in mind .He is a c-6 guru and willing to answer your questions .Doug

BOutlaw · « **Reply #34 on:** April 13, 2018, 03:35:47 PM »

Thanks Doug, its nice to hear from someone with first hand experience on a workable C6 trans brake. As you noted, I'm not sure I'm ready for a trans brake but after your post, I checked and Merkel seems to be the guy.

Looks like tomorrow is another weekend washout in Mississippi, so not able to test...again...maybe next weekend. I replaced the MSD cap and rotor and I think I can actually tell a difference just buzzing the engine to 5500, so I think the cap and plugs were the miss issue all along. When ever I can run again, Ill post the times with the new intake and adapter.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #35 on:** April 13, 2018, 04:11:06 PM »

Quote from: BOutlaw on April 13, 2018, 03:35:47 PM

Looks like tomorrow is another weekend washout in Mississippi, so not able to test...again...maybe next weekend...

That's not bad, opening race weekend canceled up here due to a foot of snow on the way. Next weekend not looking good either.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #36 on:** April 29, 2018, 04:21:34 PM »

FINALLY got some rainless weekend weather here in central Mississippi. Took the Ranchero to a small local track east of here for test and tune Friday nite. Ist runs with the new FE Power intake adapter and Yates 351C intake. I also phased the MSD distributor (adjustable rotor)and added one step colder NGK spark plugs. Other than these three changes the engine is exactly as before.
Prior to these runs Friday nite, the best time I had ever run was a 6.80, and a 6.85 and that was in the evening on a well prepped track back in early March. The other runs in March were all 695s averaging 1.55/1.60 60 ft.
The First run Friday nite was a 6.83, 1.49 60 ft, 100.34 mph, 2nd, 6.81, 1.499, 100.57, 3rd was 6.86, 1.47, 99.15 (with a 200 lb passenger), last was 6.797, 1.486, 100.78.
The miss I had from the last outing where I over revved the car is gone. I suspect it was a combination of sparkplugs, crappy MSD cap, and rev limiter set to low (Thanks Blair)

The track wasn't prepped at all and got so wet later I put the car on the trailer. I'm very happy with the improved times and believe that the car is capable of more. I'm still learning how to drive the car and seem to be making small improvements with regards to consistency.

I was concerned about the 60 ft times with the single plane intake but got my best 60 ft times ever. The car just felt different. I want to thank Jay for his help. I'm very happy with the intake and adapter and the excellent service I received.
I just ran the valves in preparation for next weeks race and they were all good, along with the rockers and pushrods. I guess I'm ready and very excited.

If I could just get in the 6.60s, Id be happy and quit buying race parts......

jayb · « **Reply #37 on:** May 01, 2018, 08:03:12 AM »

Glad to see that intake is working for you Brad, the 60 foot times indicate that you have better ETs to come...

Blackhawk2 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 08, 2018, 11:54:38 AM »

Hey Brad,

Love the look of the car! I have a question. I am also building a 65 Ranchero and I want to put a straight axle under it. Where did you get yours from? Do you know the measurements and are you happy with it?

I haven't been able to dig up any real credible information on installing one of these in a ranchero.

Thanks in advance for any info.

e philpott · « **Reply #39 on:** May 08, 2018, 01:04:00 PM »

More generic but a good read on whats involved parts wise and set up

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/Gasser%20Sales%20Info.pdf

https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/916-3903.pdf

if its for hard core wheelies WAC Customs has chromolly axles

BOutlaw · « **Reply #40 on:** May 08, 2018, 01:45:12 PM »

Straight axle install pretty much per Speedway instructions, except with shackle in front rather than back. I also reinforced stock frame rails with 3/16 plate. So far axle holding up well but no hard core wheelies. I would go with ford spindles rather than Chevy as disc brakes for the Ford are much larger. I went with Chevy because the spindles were slightly larger than the early Ford offered, big mistake, Chevy spindle has 9 inch rotors, and now I'm having trouble holding the car.

Blackhawk2 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 22, 2018, 02:28:27 PM »

Thanks for the information guys.

One more question. Do you know what the hub to hub measurement is? I want to keep it relatively stock looking as far as the width.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #42 on:** May 23, 2018, 04:42:23 PM »

I'd have to measure the car to get hub to hub. Just measure your track width you have now. I went a little wider on track width just for looks. Be advised the front wheels you plan to use may affect track width depending on back space of the wheels. Also, the gasser axle kit from Speedway has the same 9 inch discs whether you use Chevy or Ford spindles. You could order brakes separate and they may work a deal in exchange for the smaller brake/rotors included with the kit.
Good Luck

BOutlaw · « **Reply #43 on:** May 23, 2018, 06:53:02 PM »

I used the 48 inch wide straight axle from Speedway, with Chevy spindles in kit, hub to hub is 56 1/2 inches. With Ford spindles, 48 inch axle, hub to hub is 56 1/4 inch.

Blackhawk2 · « **Reply #44 on:** May 24, 2018, 12:50:40 PM »

Thanks for the reply. That's what I was looking for.

WerbyFord · « **Reply #45 on:** June 05, 2018, 02:03:20 PM »

@Brad -
I just got the Gonkulator on this. Dragstrip testing of the BBM heads so I was very interested.
Here is what the Gonkulator got with your 4200 stall, after I matched the 60ft which didn't take long:
Torq 579 at 4200
Powr 545 at 5700
1.48-6.82 at 100.0

With a 5000 stall
1.46-6.74 at 100.7
I didn't think it would care since 4200 is already peak torq, but it does seem to care at least in the Gonk. This is still with the RPM intake.
I tried shifting the Gonk at 6400 vs 6200, no difference. Save the revs!

I don't have a lot of Gonk experience with the Yates intake but I just made my best 1st guesses based on the A3 intake so here goes the Gonk
Torq 573 at 440 -6
Powr 566 at 6100 +21 and +400rpm
1.48-6.80 at 100.6 .02 and 0.6mph gain
Then with 5000stall
1.46-6.71 at 101.4
1.46-6.70 at 101.4 shifting 6400, gains .04 sec and 0.7mph vs Ed RPM intake

The old "10 ponies = 0.1 sec = 1 mph" rule doesn't apply here, but I find if you use that rule PERCENT wise, it is still pretty good.
That rule was meant for an engine making about 300 ghp or 250nhp, and you're making near double that. So it figures, you need about 20 ponies gain to get that same effect. Since you only added about 7 ponies (average of -6 torq and +21 hp) but added 21hp, the gain will be somewhat shy of that 0.1 sec and 1.0mph. So it makes sense. As you know better than I, its hard to make a car go faster when it's already high-10s in the quarter equivalent.

For fun I ran the car "fully hooked", which is slightly easier to do in the Gonkulator

1.41-6.63 at 101.6
So I suspect that with the 5000 stall, traction is going to be the rest of the game.

BOutlaw · « **Reply #46 on:** June 06, 2018, 07:40:05 AM »

Thanks Werby. I have to admit, I never thought the power and torque would be that high. And, it seems installing a 5K convertor would be worth a solid .10th. I have to keep in mind that this is supposed to be a street car but damn Im having fun running the car. Im heading to North Ala this weekend for a memorial race for one of the gasser guys who passed away unexpectedly last month. I went to Mobile last month but only got one run in on test and tune on Friday night. Ran a 6.83. The next day, first run of the day, a blown FE Willys got all squirrelly thru the lights and a 406 FE powered 57 bounced off both walls on the next pass, same right lane. I was next in line but they closed the track, seems the track was breaking up in that right lane, so I never got another run. Im very happy with the new intake adapter from Jay and the Yates intake I got from Alan Casida. I cranked up the rev limiter per advice from Blair and have not had another missing issue.

Ive had some brake mushiness issues and have had difficulty staging the car. I changed the Master Cylinder to a bit smaller and got a good bleed on the brake system so Im hoping Ill be able to be able to stage with a little more grace this weekend. LOL

Thanks again Werby….Ill post some times from this weekend when I return....Love this website

BOutlaw · « **Reply #47 on:** August 26, 2019, 03:30:18 PM »

Haven't posted on this thread for a while, so thought I'd give an update. We've got at least three more races this season. The Ranchero is still running 6.80s. Ive recently installed a new carb and changed the rear shocks. I also got some lettering on the car after putting it off for so long. Im going this week to run the car on a chassis dyno. I'll start another thread on that as I have lots of questions about what to expect and any guidance on Do's and Don'ts. Ive never had a car on a dyno. My next race is Sept 6-7. Ill post some times afterwards...

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Author Topic: 1965 Ranchero 445 (Read 15430 times)

TomP