Author Topic: Since we are talking trailer tires...what enclosed trailers do you guys have?  (Read 5156 times)

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AlanCasida

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Any bad experiences with a certain brand...good experiences? What to look for and any brands to stay away from?

JamesonRacing

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Classic Dominator 24ft tag. 

Unfortunately, Classic was a victim of the 2008 recession.  Otherwise a well built trailer.
1966 Fairlane GT, Silver Blue/Black 496/C4 (9.93@133)
1966 Fairlane GT, Nightmist Blue/Black 465/TKO (11.41@122)
1966 Fairlane GTA Conv, Antique Bronze/Black, 418EFI/C6
1966 F250 C/S, Rangoon Red, 445/T19
1965 Falcon Futura 4-door, Turquoise, EF! Z2363/4R70W

jayb

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I've been warned to stay clear of the cheap enclosed trailers on ebay.  I've been looking at Lightning and Pace America for all aluminum trailers.  Since I'm towing with a 1/2 ton pickup I'm trying to keep the trailer weight down below 3000 pounds.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

cjshaker

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I've been warned to stay clear of the cheap enclosed trailers on ebay. 

Good advice!

I asked a LOT of questions and got some great feedback from Dale, Rory and Don Fotti before I purchased mine. Ended up buying a 28' V nose US Cargo brand based on what the best available was in my area. Not all trailers are available easily in all parts of the country. I've been very happy with mine. No issues at all and seems really well built, pulls nicely and has no build issues that I've found. It even came through a major hail storm we had this year that beat the living daylights out of my wifes Fusion, but the trailer only sustained some minor dents on the top. Can't say that about the car though!

I'm really grateful for the advice I got from those guys, so if you have any questions, I'd be happy to pass any of that on. I only got a few options, then added and finished a few things myself to help cut costs. One of the best investments I've made, in my opinion. Wives would likely not agree with that sentiment..lol





Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

jayb

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That's a really nice trailer, Doug.  Would you mind telling me what you paid for it?  And do you know how much it weighs empty?  I'm looking at a 24' trailer to keep the weight down for towing with my F-150, but I'm going to get the heavy axles (5200# Dexters, not the 8000# axles that Blair suggested), and probably swap out the wheels and tires for 16" LT tires.  Is your trailer sprung, or does it have torsion bars?
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

Rory428

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Jay, if you buy a trailer with 15" tires on 6 stud wheels, and plan to switch to 16", do some measuring to ensure they will fit. On my trailer, a tall tire like the common 235/85R16, will not fit. The top of the tires would have rubbed on the fenders, and the tires would almost touch each other between the axles. Unless you get an all aluminum trailer, it is unlikely that you will find a 24 footer that actually weighs less than 3500 pounds. My 24 foot Wells Cargo is almost 4500 pounds empty, although it has a lot of extra weight options. Before I bought my trailer which is a 1999, I went to several trailer lots, and looked at a lot of new trailers. Most of the new trailers in my price range, under $9000., were very bare bones, and normally had leaf spring suspension, light 3500 pound axles, and were basically a very plain, cheap looking box inside. I did look at a new Wells Cargo virtually identical to the trailer I ended up buying, and it stickered for $23,000!. I found my trailer locally, it was bought new by our local VP racing fuel dealer, who used it for hauling 55 gallon drums of race gas to & from the local tracks, another racer bought it several years later, and rarely used it, mostly just parked his race car inside, along with hay for his wifes horses. I paid $8200. for it, and the seller even threw in the equalizer hitch and bars. The only real downside to buying the used trailer, was that it had large VP Fuel stickers on the rear door and both sides, as well as his businesses name, a bunch of stickers, and a few minor scratches. But it came with so many added features, I couldn`t turn it down. Since the original owner used the trailer for hauling heavy drums of race gas, it has a high end 8500 pound HD Warn winch mounted under the trailer floor, which is way overkill for pulling a race car into the trailer, but it certainly is not working very hard to pull the Fairmont in. I would imagine a 3000/3500 lb winch would be more than adequate. Also, by going with a well known brand name trailer, I would have to think the resale value would be better. I know several racers who bought cheaper trailers, with big plans to add their own cabinets, work benches, more lighting, finished walls and ceiling, and many other "toys" that never got done, and their cheap trailers are still strippers, and now have leaking roofs, poor fitting doors, and peeling cheap wall boards.They all wish they had paid a bit more and got a better built trailer. On the other hand, I know a couple of guys with high end, all aluminum Gold Rush trailers, but those are crazy expensive. With all the Stock & Super Stock racers from Minnesota, Jay, I would be looking to see if any of them have a nice used trailer for sale. 
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

Barry_R

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Classic Dominator 26 foot - - 2007 unit.  Purchased a very clean used one after looking at about 20 modestly priced new trailers and realizing how crappy they became after the recession killed the RV business.  Some of the lowest cost new ones have walls so thin you can darn near see through them.

machoneman

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Have never owned an enclosed trailer but...

Some years ago, I interviewed with Pace American's then president for the G.M. position for North America/Canada. He shared some internal research that showed that Pace's standing was #1 among manufacturers due to quality. That and their higher prices were market-justified by both their dealers (who sold also cheaper brands) and by in-depth market research of owners.
I guess their still current high prices and high resale value (also noted via research) prove Rory's point of the downside of cheap, leaky and otherwise faulty trailers. JMO! 
Bob Maag

wowens

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Cargo Pro or Sno Pro. I had a 22' V nose Cargo Pro, 5300lb axles I think. 2850 lbs empty, probably 3500 once trimed out, pulled great, no issues. $8700.00 best I can rember.
Woody

BattlestarGalactic

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Jay, always order the BIGGEST axles you can.  Don't get 5 lugs!   You sure that 1/2 ton will be up to the task?  I know the new trucks are nothing like the old ones, but an open trailer pulls like it isn't back there weight wise.  Make it a BOX and the wind will really work it hard.  If you think you might pull the Galaxie, I would suggest a 26-28 ft trailer.  That will give you some working room in the front(like a bench).  What motor in your truck?   5.0?   

I drug my wagon around on a 15ft open trailer with my 1970 F100/302/toploader/4.11 for the first few seasons.  It always got me there but I didn't do very far then.  To travel a few states away I think it would be a real handful and you could not relax very much while driving.

I've had my Haulmark Elite II since I ordered it in 1997.  It has held up very well, it only has a few random leaks in the front nose area but the sealer they put on 21 yrs ago needs replaced.  I reseal(silicone) it in the spring and it seems to do well.  It's got A LOT of miles on it.  To PA, FLA, Alabama, Chicago, Bowling Green, etc.  It has triple 5K Dexters.   I like torsion over springs.  It rides like a Cadillac and unless I get a real bad road, the stuff on the counter never moves.

Don't get vinyl walls.  Either paneling and paint it or aluminum.   My vinyl is coming off after it has dried up over 21 years.  One of the regrets of not paying the extra $700 back then.

Man, what I wouldn't do for a NEW trailer, 44ft with some real living quarters!!!  But since I only paid $11K for mine back in 1997 and they are in the $40K range now........I don't see it happening.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 10:15:34 AM by BattlestarGalactic »
Larry

Posi67

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I ordered a 24' Pace in 2005 and it's a pretty good trailer. A few things could have been better as far as quality control but it's been good and tows great. 5200 lb axles, 15" tires and torsion ride. An extra 2' would have been good but that and my truck wouldn't fit in my driveway. Wasn't cheap considering you can buy the same size travel trailer with a fridge, stove, furnace and beds for about the same amount but overall I'm happy with it.

 
« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 09:52:03 AM by Posi67 »

cjshaker

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That's a really nice trailer, Doug.  Would you mind telling me what you paid for it?  And do you know how much it weighs empty?  I'm looking at a 24' trailer to keep the weight down for towing with my F-150, but I'm going to get the heavy axles (5200# Dexters, not the 8000# axles that Blair suggested), and probably swap out the wheels and tires for 16" LT tires.  Is your trailer sprung, or does it have torsion bars?

It has torsion axles. I don't think I'd ever use springs on an enclosed trailer. Ride quality and height will suffer bad. I paid a little over $9k for mine. Some of the options added to the price though.
Options I got are as follows:
Diamond plate ramp
V nose
2 spare tire wells
Insulated top and sides (mainly to keep the panels from buckling from winds, which leads to leaks)
Paneling inside, top and bottom (vinyl on top)
120 volt package, which includes lighting
Diamond plate protector for the nose
Aluminum rims
5200lb axles
Doubled up roof braces (to handle snow loading in Ohio in winter and not cause buckling panel/leak issues, probably overkill)
Lower cabinets

Weight is 4531 lbs with a 5590 cargo capacity.
I added the tool box, offset winch and jack storage (not in the picture) and protective floor covering, plus coat hooks and some attachments for strapping chairs in. Maybe another 150-175 lbs, but closer to 250 lbs with the spare tires added.

My '70 F350 dually handles it great. Tongue weight isn't a problem, but the Tekonsha brake controller is key to getting my old truck to handle it properly when braking. I haven't had or seen a need for a load leveler or sway control, but an F150 would probably benefit from them.

« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 10:33:41 AM by cjshaker »
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Falcon67

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Continental Cargo 34' spread axle, extra height, bath package (potty/sink/shower).  Full insulation, lighting, external LED lights, 15K AC.  Extended tongue, 7200 lb axles.  We carry bedding and it's tagged as a Travel Trailer.  Microwave, water heater, fresh/gray/black water tanks.  Rezner Trailers out of Duncan, OK - good folks.  Buy brand name - stay away from the cheap junk out of Georgia.



LEDs are 1000x better than halogens and no bump outs inside the trailer


With the dragster loaded
« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 12:46:31 PM by Falcon67 »

jayb

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The trailers I'm looking at are all aluminum, frames included, with 5200 pound Dexter torsion bar axles, and 6 lug 15" wheels.  I was thinking about just taking off the 15" wheels and tires and replacing them with 16", but as Rory mentioned I'm not certain that the 16" wheels and tires will fit, so that is up in the air at this point.  The Lightning trailer I'm looking at will supposedly take the 16" wheels and tires, and only weighs 2950 pounds empty.  The Pace American trailer may not take the bigger wheels and tires, I haven't measured it yet, and it weighs 3250 pounds.  The Lightning is $10,500 and the Pace is $9,600. 

Pretty sure my truck will handle this.  Curb weight of the truck is 5400 pounds, maximum weight of the truck is 7200 pounds, and the total weight of truck and trailer can be up to 15,400 pounds, according to the stickers on the truck and the owners manual.  I figure with two people and some luggage in the truck it will be 6000 pounds.  I estimate putting 800 pounds on the hitch for 6800 pounds total weight on the truck tires.  This equates to an 8000 pound trailer with about 10% of the weight on the hitch.  If the trailer empty weight is around 3000 pounds, then I have 5000 pounds I can carry in the trailer, and still have a total weight of truck and trailer of 14,000 pounds, which is well under the 15,400 pound maximum weight.  And I might actually need 5000 pounds in the trailer; my Galaxie is almost 4000 pounds...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

mike7570

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Jay, when looking at trailers I would keep in mind what tow vehicle changes you might make in the future. I starting towing with an older F250 extended cab gas engine then change to a big power stroke diesel that would pull anything. After a few years changed to a class C motor home and now a class A motor home. A lot of motor homes have a lower towing capacity than a big pick up. I'm glad I stayed with a lighter weight trailer that I can pull with my gas motor home with no problem. (Of course now I'm looking at my next upgrade to a diesel pusher.)
You could just skip all the way up (probably would save in the long run) and just get the big Renegade and stacker now! 

chris401

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A medium ground would be the 7000 lb axles. 8 lug and should come with the 7.5 or so trailer tires that are about the same as the 235/85R16 LT. I forget what is different about the 7000 vs 8000 that both use an 8 lug 3/4 ton pickup wheel. Not to be confused with a Super 8 axle that has solid forklift looking rims and 14/16 ply tires.

I recomend you verify that the lights and brakes work like they should before you leave the lot. There are at least three different official wiring patterns and what ever else is made up along the way.

Most all truck and trailers are National/Traditional standard.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2018, 08:57:59 PM by chris401 »

Rory428

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A few other considerations;one is color. When I was looking at new trailers, it was a pretty warm summer day. When I stepped out of one white trailer, into a black trailer parked right next to it, I could not believe how much hotter the black trailer was inside. Also I have seen many black trailers in the pits on a hot day, and the outside walls were very noticably buckling. When the sun went down, the panels got straight again, but I would think that all that panel flexing can not be doing anything good sealing the panels to each other.
At the time I thought they were kinda ugly, but I have grown to really appreciate having a door in the middle on the left side. Although I normally winch the Fairmont into the trailer, it is nice to be able to fully open the drivers door with the car inside the trailer, even if only to put the trans in gear (or Park with an automatic) or set the park brake if you have one. It also helps with air circulation at the track, having both side doors , plus the rear ramp door down.
My trailer has a 20 foot awning on the right side. Nice to keep the rain off, or hopefully, the sun.
Although my trailer does not have them, but after seeing Dales, I really wish I had at least 1, preferably 2, covered, in floor storage bins. Handy to get the trailer spare tire out of the way, plus room for a lot of other stuff, to get more useable space inside.
My trailer also has 3 12 volt ceiling lights, as well as a pair of 4 foot 120 Volt flouresent fixtures. There is a long "Shoreline" power cable that I can either run off my generator, or at home, connect to an extension cord to the house or garage. I also have 2 adjustable outside flush mounted halogen 120 Volt lights, which really lights up the right side.
Jay, what about some more info about you F150. Last week I went to my local Ford dealership, after checking out the 2018 F150s online. If you order the right combination, you can get a 2018 F150 rated to tow 11,200 pounds,with the 3.5L Eco Boost, plus the new 5.0L V8 is rated at 400 HP (supposedly can run mid to low 13sin the 1/4 stock!), with a 10 speed automatic. You can get the new F150s with the Pro Trailer Assist which basically backs up the trailer for you. Man, could I use THAT!!
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH

Leny Mason

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The trailers I'm looking at are all aluminum, frames included, with 5200 pound Dexter torsion bar axles, and 6 lug 15" wheels.  I was thinking about just taking off the 15" wheels and tires and replacing them with 16", but as Rory mentioned I'm not certain that the 16" wheels and tires will fit, so that is up in the air at this point.  The Lightning trailer I'm looking at will supposedly take the 16" wheels and tires, and only weighs 2950 pounds empty.  The Pace American trailer may not take the bigger wheels and tires, I haven't measured it yet, and it weighs 3250 pounds.  The Lightning is $10,500 and the Pace is $9,600. 

Pretty sure my truck will handle this.  Curb weight of the truck is 5400 pounds, maximum weight of the truck is 7200 pounds, and the total weight of truck and trailer can be up to 15,400 pounds, according to the stickers on the truck and the owners manual.  I figure with two people and some luggage in the truck it will be 6000 pounds.  I estimate putting 800 pounds on the hitch for 6800 pounds total weight on the truck tires.  This equates to an 8000 pound trailer with about 10% of the weight on the hitch.  If the trailer empty weight is around 3000 pounds, then I have 5000 pounds I can carry in the trailer, and still have a total weight of truck and trailer of 14,000 pounds, which is well under the 15,400 pound maximum weight.  And I might actually need 5000 pounds in the trailer; my Galaxie is almost 4000 pounds...

Jay if you are going to use a half ton truck be sure to put air bags on it, they will make it handle way better than load levelers. Leny Mason

Falcon67

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>A few other considerations;one is color.

People buy the crap out of black trailers down here - I'll never understand why.  Talked with both Rezner (our dealer) and Phil's Trailer in Waco - they don't get it either.  But they sell the hell out of 'em.  Gimme white, thanks.  Here it's nothing for the concrete in out pit to run 120~140F in the summer and the west trailer wall way up there too.  I need to get about 3 gallons of Mobile Coat and paint the top of this trailer.  That REALLY cuts down on the heat generated by a bare aluminum roof.  On the old trailer it cut heat gain by 20F easy.  Also, our walls are .040 aluminum, which is an upgrade.  .030 is minimum really. 

Can't afford all aluminum - ours was $24K as it is.  The 1993 F-350 DRW is rated at "10,000"  1994 is rated at "12,000" - no difference I can tell between the trucks.  Pulls it just fine.  The rear in that thing is some floating axle Dana looking deal that will put up with a hella lot.  Right now we're about 17,300 loaded.  The dragster weighs 1450 and the Falcon is 3060.  Ratings put us at 24,400 which is under the 26,001 that triggers CDL in Texas.  Shockingly, the truck only weighs about 5800.

I put Air Lift bags on the F-350 and run those at 45~50 lbs.  On the F-150 Super Crew, I put in a hefty rear sway bar and upgraded shocks.  The old 24' was around 8900 loaded with the car and a electric golf cart.  (Got rid of the cart - that be-otch was heavy)  Both used the same Reese load leveling hitch to distribute weight.  I will only pull the 18' car hauler without the load levelers.  But I've had about 8000 total weigh on that without issue pulling with the F-150.  (trailer + skid loader). 

ec164

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Jay I also tow with a F150 Crew FX4 2011 3.5 ECO, I went with an aluminum NEO built in S.West lower MI original builder of Dominator Trailers. 28 foot V-nose with cabinets weighs 3100#, 5200 Dexter axles pulls like a dream, truck acts like it is not back there! Doug made great choice getting wide side door, I also put added height diamond plate on front for stones, and for just a few dollars upgraded to swivel tie-downs that have much higher # rating also...I got one piece rounded roof with side vents so no worries on leaks, a exterior loading light really helps out back too! Blair made great statement on stepping up to the 8 lug axles, my next will have them. .....Good luck in your choice....................Al
You're ahead in a Mercury......all the way

Falcon67

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cjshaker has a nice unit - one thing I'll mention is that we deleted the generator compartment and the floor storage for the spare tire.  The spare is mounted high on the right rear at the back door.  If it's in the floor, you have to unload the trailer to get to it - something to consider.  Especially what it would take to unload a dragster on the side of the highway.  The generator compartment in most - as is anyway - would have to be changed based on your generator size.  The common genny boxes won't handle a square Honda and similar.  They'll fit an Onan - $$$$ - and they you need exhaust, a fuel tank, etc, etc.  We opted for storage under the desk instead and it was the right decision for us.

cjshaker

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The floor mounted spare wells were a concern for me when I laid out my plans. I considered just storing them against the wall, or keeping them in the back of the truck, but concerns about theft, and the lack of wall space inside the trailer made me decide to go ahead with the floor mounts. Unloading the car would be a pain, but I also considered the ability of my jack to handle the trailer while fully loaded, and I thought that might be iffy.

I also considered a generator compartment, but I don't race regularly, and the generator/fuel etc would have added a bunch of weight that I didn't want or need. If I raced like Chris or others do, I might have considered it more. I DO wish I would have gone with a rear facing LED light, but hindsight being what it is... ::)
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Rory428

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Regarding the floor mounted spare tire compartment(s), I wish my trailer had at least 1. I have seen the mounts that store the spare tire on the wall, either at floor level, or up high, personally I don`t like having all that weight hanging on the side wall, plus either way, they are often in the way. On my trailer, I just let my tire lay flat on the floor, under the rear of the car, and roll it in & out for loading unloading the car. In the 4 years I have had my enclosed trailer, I have only needed the spare once, so acess isn`t a huge deal in normal use. Plus if the trailer is long enough, the trap door may be in front of the car. Not really a big deal to roll the car back a few feet anyhow. Getting the tow vehicles spare tire, mounted underneath the truck bed is at least as much of a pain.Instead of using a floor jack to lift the loaded trailer, I keep some 1 foot pieces of lumber in the trailer, 2x4, 2x10s, and when I had to change the trailer tire on the side of the highway, I made a quick wood ramp to allow the good tire to drive up high enough to get the flat tire off the ground. Not sure how well that would work with leaf spring axles though.
Regarding generator compartments in the side of the trailer, I know a couple of guys who have had thieves break the flimsy generator door and steal the generators, & in 1 case, they used the generator door as an acess point to get inside the trailer and steal items inside (tools, helmets, carb etc). Most generator compartments just have thin plywood walls, a couple of kicks can usually knock the walls out of the way. Same with some of the flimsy hardware that locks the trailer doors. Some are very easy to defeat, or pry off. My trailer has those round locks and surrounds like you often see on contractor trucks and vans, and strong bar latches that have hooks on both ends. Nothing is impossible to break into, but may as well make them work hard at it!
1978 Fairmont,FE 427 with 428 crank, 4 speed Jerico best of 9.972@132.54MPH 1.29 60 foot
1985 Mustang HB 331 SB Ford, 4 speed Jerico, best of 10.29@128 MPH 1.40 60 foot.
1974 F350 race car hauler 390 NP435 4 speed
1959 Ford Meteor 2 dr sedan. 428 Cobra Jet, 4 speed Toploader. 12.54@ 108 MPH