Author Topic: More disease (Read 22066 times)

turbohunter · « **on:** September 14, 2017, 04:56:06 PM »

How do I/we keep getting mauled by the car collecting disease.
Witness this Q code Country Squire in my driveway.
My buddy bought it from someone in Frisco. Did some stuff to it then lost interest under a pile of his other projects. Enter his buddy (me) that says "whutcha gonna do with that deal, maybe I should take it home?"
He said yes.
Oh crap, now it's in my driveway.
I don't think there's still a 428 in there. The heads are mis matched and it's fresh paint on the block.
I don't care though beacause I just may know where to get one or two.
Anyway, here she is.

country63sedan · « **Reply #1 on:** September 14, 2017, 05:03:02 PM »

Man, I dig that wagon. It would look good in my driveway. I know what your saying about bringing stuff home though - I brought home a pile of ft engines the other day and I still haven't got them unloaded. Later, Travis

Edit ; By "the other day" I mean the Saturday before Labor Day.

fastback 427 · « **Reply #2 on:** September 14, 2017, 06:54:26 PM »

You are a sick man. Cool car, but you are sick

turbohunter · « **Reply #3 on:** September 14, 2017, 07:10:30 PM »

Thankyouverymuch, in my best Elvis voice.

cjshaker · « **Reply #4 on:** September 14, 2017, 08:19:27 PM »

Awesome! I love it, Marc!

jayb · « **Reply #5 on:** September 14, 2017, 08:48:55 PM »

That thing is badass. Does it have that fold-up seat in the back? We had a wagon when I was a kid and my brother and I would sit in that seat and look out the back window for hours while the old man drove. How about the Ara Parseghian tailgate, does it have that, or was that later?

turbohunter · « **Reply #6 on:** September 14, 2017, 09:21:34 PM »

Quote from: jayb on September 14, 2017, 08:48:55 PM

That thing is badass. Does it have that fold-up seat in the back? We had a wagon when I was a kid and my brother and I would sit in that seat and look out the back window for hours while the old man drove. How about the Ara Parseghian tailgate, does it have that, or was that later?

Yes sir, the facing fold up seats in the back and the dual operation tailgate.
It's a pretty bad ass car.
Oh and it handles and is pretty stout.

427Fastback · « **Reply #7 on:** September 14, 2017, 10:23:57 PM »

Very cool.....good score

Lenz · « **Reply #8 on:** September 15, 2017, 05:43:57 AM »

Great looking wagon Marc and that rear end shot would seem to indicate that the thing still has some chrome left on the door handles.

Lowrider · « **Reply #9 on:** September 15, 2017, 07:35:25 AM »

I think I have the same disease. Sold my 57 and picked up this wagon to play with. 60 Ford Courier.

turbohunter · « **Reply #10 on:** September 15, 2017, 08:10:10 AM »

Len the chrome is all there and in pretty good shape. The bumpers need to be straightened and re chromed.
There is a little bit of rust repair to do here and there but nowhere near any other car I've had. Mostly surface rust.
Also some minor body work.
It has a Vintage Air set up in it which blows nice and cold.
I'll post a some interior pics when it gets light out today.

BattlestarGalactic · « **Reply #11 on:** September 15, 2017, 08:47:06 AM »

I still remember the day I brought my wagon home...........in 1992. Looks like a neat ride.

turbohunter · « **Reply #12 on:** September 15, 2017, 04:21:36 PM »

Took it on a 2 hour freeway drive today. Ran great but it was running 190 degrees (tad warm, but up and down hills) on a real cool day. Seemed steady though, it was only varying by 2 or three degrees one way or the other. Gonna have to play with that a bit. Hot trafficky days will run that temp up by at least 30 degrees. Radiator seems a bit small, wonder if it's stock.

Next thing to obsess over is wheels. I have two two, ok three thoughts. American 200s Daisy, Torque thrust Ds (the grey centers) or hub caps. I'm leaning away from hub caps.

Here's the interior.
The front seat is your basic sarape seat but the others are in good shape.

BruceS · « **Reply #13 on:** September 15, 2017, 06:51:35 PM »

Great score, Marc. Some good parts have been added already to help make an excellent driver / tow vehicle. IMO Torque-Thrust Ds would look good or wider chrome steel wheels with correct year poverty caps. The rad looks similar to stock; you might look at Griffin aluminum rads, they're available with larger cores and stock fittings and mounting. Thermostat needs a look and probably replacement too.

Bolted to Floor · « **Reply #14 on:** September 15, 2017, 07:43:21 PM »

Marc, that's a nice ride with some cool parts. You trying to start a classics car lot at your place??

turbohunter · « **Reply #15 on:** October 10, 2017, 04:45:20 PM »

A classic car lot would suit me just fine.

I've been trying to figure out what rims would look good on this dude.
I can t come up with it yet, but, I was poking around at all the local car stuff joints and found these beautiful babies. '67 t bird hubcaps.
Man I dig the hell out of them.

Heo · « **Reply #16 on:** October 10, 2017, 05:20:53 PM »

Nice looks like they came with the car

BruceS · « **Reply #17 on:** October 10, 2017, 06:40:37 PM »

Yep, I agree they could've been OEM.

turbohunter · « **Reply #18 on:** October 10, 2017, 08:03:48 PM »

I agree boys.
I had to do a little fitment on the fronts. They wouldn't fit over the hubs in stock form. Cut and ground an 1/8 out of the center and they fit nice.
Since t birds switched body styles to big birds in '67 I never was aware of these.

cjshaker · « **Reply #19 on:** October 11, 2017, 06:59:44 AM »

I like it, Marc! Still can't believe how good of shape that side trim is, or the whole car for that matter.

turbohunter · « **Reply #20 on:** October 11, 2017, 07:18:44 AM »

Yeah Doug, it's really all there. It's a bit of a twenty footer though.
However it's stuff that can be done a section at a time and keep the car on the road.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #21 on:** October 11, 2017, 09:33:29 AM »

Quote from: turbohunter on October 10, 2017, 04:45:20 PM

I've been trying to figure out what rims would look good on this dude.

The T-Bird hubcaps look good. I went with '69 Mercury Marauder MagStars on mine. The MagStars won't work if you have the large 4-piston Kelsey Hayes front disc brakes though, I originally tried fitting them on my 7-Litre. MotorWheel Spyders will fit the large disc brakes.

turbohunter · « **Reply #22 on:** October 11, 2017, 12:51:51 PM »

Kevin that's exactly what these hubcaps have me thinking.
I think yours are bitchin. Enough of the stock look but hot rodded a bit.
I like those better than any mags I've seen. Hell I like these hubcaps better than any mags I've seen.

turbohunter · « **Reply #23 on:** October 11, 2017, 12:55:49 PM »

Quote from: thatdarncat on October 11, 2017, 09:33:29 AM

The MagStars won't work if you have the large 4-piston Kelsey Hayes front disc brakes though, I originally tried fitting them on my 7-Litre. MotorWheel Spyders will fit the large disc brakes.

That's prolly the reason I had to clearance the caps a bit. I haven't been into the brakes yet.

cjshaker · « **Reply #24 on:** October 11, 2017, 02:07:29 PM »

Quote from: thatdarncat on October 11, 2017, 09:33:29 AM

The T-Bird hubcaps look good. I went with '69 Mercury Marauder MagStars on mine.

Those rims look good on just about anything. I parted out a '69 Maurader many years ago and the only things worth keeping were those rims and the 429 Thunderjet engine. I put them on my wife's '79 Cougar and they looked great! I still have those rims, but the engine is long gone.

turbohunter · « **Reply #25 on:** October 13, 2017, 02:41:40 PM »

Question for all you Galaxies boys.
Is/was there a larger desert cooler type radiator for these guys?
I'm gonna get something better and just wonder if there is an already made deal.

BruceS · « **Reply #26 on:** October 13, 2017, 06:42:23 PM »

Marc, there would've been a rad used with A/C cars and also possibly a towing pkg? I would check Griffin rads on Summitracing.com. They have some aluminum direct bolt-ins with much higher capacity. That's what I'm going to use on my '63 Galaxie w/ 482. Bruce

turbohunter · « **Reply #27 on:** October 14, 2017, 08:56:32 AM »

Thanks Bruce.

turbohunter · « **Reply #28 on:** October 27, 2017, 08:31:43 AM »

Crap
Was leaving work last night, put the key in, turned it and ZAP.
The damn ignition switch (the brand new ignition switch) came apart and shorted. Had some smoke and ran around and pulled the neg cable off. Whew.
She came home on a hook.
I have three days off and was wondering what I was going to do as I'm waiting for the mustang engine (pistons finally arrived).
Now I know I'll be in the dash for a few days.
Have to source a good switch.
Damn I hate garbage.
BTW the "new" switch was ordered it through the Dearborn site. I'll never do that again.
Lesson learned.

Lenz · « **Reply #29 on:** October 27, 2017, 09:10:17 AM »

That's rough, always scary with electrical components. When I redid the column in my F100 I sourced an NOS turn signal switch and wiring assembly for a little over double the money I could have purchased it for had I gone with an "off-shore" unit. Hope you get the issue sorted out without too much trouble.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #30 on:** October 27, 2017, 10:04:29 AM »

Marc, was the new switch you received from Dearborn a Motorcraft brand, or something else? The Ford part number for your ignition switch is C5AZ-11572-B ( Motorcraft # SW-417 ) and it looks like it is still available new from Ford. The price from Ford is relatively cheap, which makes me think they are made somewhere different from where they were made in 1966. I did a little looking on the internet and it looks like the Scott Drake company has reproduced that switch ( it has some Mustang applications as well as the Galaxie and other Fords ), it's possible that's the switch Ford is selling too since the price is similar. I would do like Lenz suggested and see if you can find an OLD NOS switch. If you search the part number on eBay there look to be some "older" new switches available, going by the packaging. Try to look the pictures over carefully though, or ask the seller additional questions if needed, I recently purchased a Ford part on eBay that was supposed to be NOS but turned out to be used. You could try places the specialize in NOS parts too, like the Green Sales Company, but be sure and verify the part is actually an OLD Ford part, one time they sent me a NOS part but it turned out to be an old aftermarket part, and not genuine Ford.

turbohunter · « **Reply #31 on:** October 27, 2017, 10:17:12 AM »

Yeah thanks Kevin, I'll be trying all that.
That part from Dearborn was "offshore".
Just dumb on my part, didn't even think about it.
More pissed at myself than them, shoulda known better.

thatdarncat · « **Reply #32 on:** October 27, 2017, 10:28:10 AM »

I understand, been there, got the burn marks too. I'm wondering where the Scott Drake reproduction is made, I'd guess offshore as well, but they have the licensing to use the Ford trademark.

turbohunter · « **Reply #33 on:** October 27, 2017, 06:46:19 PM »

Well, found an NOS switch at Branda with its box, so cross fingers.
The pigtail has the power lead fried so I'm trying to find a replacement four wire deal.
No luck yet, only three wires so far. If I can't find one I think I can fix this one as just the insulation was burnt up, wire still looks good so I'm figuring I can leave a few inches of wire, then insulate it with shrink wrap then tape.
I'm going to have to replace the whole wire though. Tomorrow morning I'll strip the loom and follow it.
I've got the entire dash out now.

turbohunter · « **Reply #34 on:** October 28, 2017, 04:30:29 PM »

Ok that wasn't to bad. Traced the burned wire back to good wire. Cut out the bad section and replaced. I used the original pigtail that I just re insulated.
I have an old fashioned good parts store near me that found me a Motorcraft switch. I used that and have the NOS piece coming in from Branda so I'll have a good backup.
Now as long as it's apart I'm going to restore the dash as much as possible. There was just a plastic cover on it. The original is garbage. So I'll have a new dash built at Just Dashes. Meanwhile it'll be a skeleton dash.
But all in all not bad, it's running again.

turbohunter · « **Reply #35 on:** October 30, 2017, 03:51:01 PM »

BTW
I compared the Motorcraft and "off shore" switch.
The connection between metal and plastic is the main difference. The Motorcraft has much more meat and actual tangs that grab the plastic. The "off shore" is destined to die. Crap metal that is bent to hold the plastic part. So it starts life already bent. Can't hold up to the circular spring pressure.

Drew Pojedinec · « **Reply #36 on:** October 30, 2017, 04:44:14 PM »

The Autozone switches are to get home with.
Thankfully for my daily driver 76 F100 NOS switches are still available on ebay and other places. I need to stock up on them to be honest.

turbohunter · « **Reply #37 on:** October 30, 2017, 04:47:18 PM »

I had the same thought Drew.

turbohunter · « **Reply #38 on:** November 07, 2017, 03:26:44 PM »

Ok I'm kinda floundering here a bit. I'm trying to find a new original looking front seat upholstery set.
Looked on Dearborn/Ecklers and found a Galaxies bench split cover but nothing for a Squire non split seat. Talked to them and they told me they do not stock the correct seat cover. I asked if they could steer me to their vendor and of course they declined. Someone suggested eBay but nothing yet there.
Anyone have an idea where to get the original looking bench seat cover so I can get this deal re upholstered?

Heo · « **Reply #39 on:** November 07, 2017, 05:01:10 PM »

What about them?
http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/seatcovers.htm

turbohunter · « **Reply #40 on:** November 07, 2017, 05:42:43 PM »

Thanks Heo.
After spending days trying to find covers, I've pretty much found that nobody makes them.
Pretty much a custom deal.
Now I'm just trying to track down the original material.

Heo · « **Reply #41 on:** November 07, 2017, 06:31:09 PM »

I to need new seatcovers for the Galaxie
For the folding bench there is repros
But i really want leather....and don't like the
64 pattern...and the diswashers soul left us and
the house need new windows the computer said ZIIPP
and turned black

... I guess no leather for me this year

BruceS · « **Reply #42 on:** November 07, 2017, 06:42:40 PM »

Marc, if you're looking for the original materials: smsautofabrics.com. You can go to their website, input your make, year, trim code, etc. and likely see the fabrics online. You can request samples and they will send them to you. My '63 Galaxie was built very late in the production run and SMS identified the cloth as a pattern used in '64 which makes sense given the late production date. Hope this helps! Bruce

turbohunter · « **Reply #43 on:** November 08, 2017, 08:59:00 AM »

Quote from: Heo on November 07, 2017, 06:31:09 PM

the diswashers soul left us and
the house need new windows the computer said ZIIPP
and turned black ... I guess no leather for me this year

LOL
That normal household maintenance stuff is really a pain when your car has needs eh?

Thanks Bruce I'll check them out.
I'm trying to just get away with just redoing the front seat for a while. To much money going out for other needs like Heo.
BTW I took the dash down to Just Dashes in Van Nuys, Ca. Which is close to me. They are restoring the plastic and rebuilding the dash. Lead time........6 months.

Which is actually good because I'll need time to rob a few banks in order to pay for it.

Edit:
Wow Bruce, SMS has a bunch of stuff. I requested some samples. Thank you again.

427Fastback · « **Reply #44 on:** November 08, 2017, 12:33:48 PM »

SMS is good...They had original black comfort weave for my 68 not the fake repo stuff.I sent the comfort weave to TMI and they made me new seat kits using the correct material..

turbohunter · « **Reply #45 on:** November 08, 2017, 01:08:15 PM »

Yeah man, they're bookmarked for me. Great.

turbohunter · « **Reply #46 on:** November 30, 2017, 11:23:33 AM »

Got the samples back from SMS and they're perfect so I'll order some material from them. BTW they ain't cheap

Received and installed some rear springs I got from Hotchkis. These are Galaxies springs and are supposed to give you 12 inches from the hub center to the fender and I'll be darned if they're not right on (even on a wagon).

turbohunter · « **Reply #47 on:** November 30, 2017, 01:34:54 PM »

Got to work and took a pic of the car on the flattest surface I can find.

Lenz · « **Reply #48 on:** November 30, 2017, 02:23:09 PM »

Even looks good sitting in a parking garage! No worries about anyone swinging a car door into it either from the looks of things-

turbohunter · « **Reply #49 on:** November 30, 2017, 03:01:56 PM »

Depends on the day in this garage, but yeah it's vacant today.
I was feeling it was to low at first but I think I was just used to being to jacked in the rear. I'm thinking its looking about right. Low enough but not to low.
It handles much better now that some caster has been taken out of the front. Also had a clunk in the rear that is gone now.
Thumbs up so far. Now to find some wheels and tires.

BruceS · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2017, 07:02:28 PM »

Marc, it sits about right IMO. What symptoms was the excessive caster giving you? Bruce

Drew Pojedinec · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2017, 07:33:29 PM »

I do like your kinda disease.... plus wagons, need I say more?

TomP · « **Reply #52 on:** November 30, 2017, 11:34:28 PM »

I doubt the caster was affected much by that small rear height change. Unless it was already negative caster (could have been) it added more which is a good thing.
Were those hubcaps used on other 66 Galaxies or just 7Litres? They do look good on it.

On my 61 wagon, just yesterday it wouldn't start with the key but would by jumping the solenoid. I suspected the ignition switch but it turned out to be the firewall plug, green corrosion on several terminals.

turbohunter · « **Reply #53 on:** November 30, 2017, 11:47:45 PM »

I'm thinking it has a bit of negative caster in it already Tom. Also it was a full three inches higher in back. Driving it today it was noticeably calmer. Before the spring change, if you thought about changing lanes you were already there. Today it was a pleasure. I agree that it shouldn't make much difference, but I taught myself today that it does.
Another characteristic it got rid of was diving forward on braking. Rock solid today.
I don't know what springs were in it before but I really like these.

The hubcaps are '66 or '67 T bird caps.

turbohunter · « **Reply #54 on:** November 30, 2017, 11:53:51 PM »

Quote from: TomP on November 30, 2017, 11:34:28 PM

On my 61 wagon, just yesterday it wouldn't start with the key but would by jumping the solenoid. I suspected the ignition switch but it turned out to be the firewall plug, green corrosion on several terminals.

That's a heck of a good heads up. I'll be checking.

turbohunter · « **Reply #55 on:** December 01, 2017, 06:53:37 PM »

Sorry guys, I know I'm sick but I couldn't not share this pic. I was screwing around with the simple edit features on my iPad and well, just have to share. I know it's the same pic as the other day but it has a chrome filter on, is cropped and the color values messed with a bit. If you save the pic and view it all at once instead of squished in the forum format it's pretty nice. What strikes me is the straight lines of the garage and how it fits the car.
Again I apologize, I know I'm sick and I'm falling in love.
OBTW
Fell into a cheap set of 15x8 magnum 500s today so I'll order a set of 15x7 fronts from Summit.

turbohunter · « **Reply #56 on:** January 09, 2018, 10:43:54 PM »

Finally found a set of front wheels. Magnums are pretty hard to find these days.
275/60/15s in the rear on 8 inch magnums.
255/60/15s in the front on 7 inches.
Man these wells can take a bit of tire.
Really handles well now.

cjshaker · « **Reply #57 on:** January 11, 2018, 10:48:18 AM »

I love this car, Marc. I've always had a thing for station wagons. Put a lot of miles on a '77 I had, which ended up going through 4 400 engines before the car was finally done. Loaded that thing to the hilt and pulling a trailer on many family vacations through the Smokey and Blue Ridge Mountains. Any station wagon from the '50s, 60's or '70s is just plain cool in my book. And yours is especially nice.

turbohunter · « **Reply #58 on:** January 11, 2018, 12:53:41 PM »

Can't tell you how many times I've thanked my buddy for selling it to me.

Heo · « **Reply #59 on:** January 11, 2018, 05:06:38 PM »

Ahhh now i got it.I thought the car looked familiar
Its the stationwagon from deliverance

Or maby that was a -67 30 years since i saw the
Movie

Lenz · « **Reply #60 on:** January 11, 2018, 05:47:43 PM »

Spot on Heo, I do believe it was a '67, had a 390 in it too as I recall- Better safe than sorry though Marc, I'd check the back for a banjo or any of Ned Beatty's personal effects

turbohunter · « **Reply #61 on:** January 11, 2018, 06:29:02 PM »

LOL sooie

turbohunter · « **Reply #62 on:** January 13, 2018, 08:09:03 PM »

Got my clock rebuilt with a quartz movement and re installed. Did a little engine room cleanup and starting to figure out what engine is in this deal.
There is no Cxxx that I can see yet.
There is a 2 with a couple dots where there code should be.
The date code is tough to read. I took a wire brush to it but still tough.
I read the date code as 6M15. That would be odd though as it's a 66. IF it's the original block. Doughtful. What do you guys think about the date code?
There is a 24 DIF code also which I think means mold#24 Dearborn.
Heads are C1AE-As so not original.
Tomorrow I'll check the stroke.
And yes someone needs some gasket goop help.

Gregwill16 · « **Reply #63 on:** January 13, 2018, 09:49:08 PM »

Marc it appears it has been changed out at some point as that is a 9M15 date code which also explains the no engineering number on it.

turbohunter · « **Reply #64 on:** January 13, 2018, 10:01:43 PM »

Aaaah 9 M
I see it now, thanks.

turbohunter · « **Reply #65 on:** January 14, 2018, 01:47:59 PM »

Ok we've got a 390 here.
It runs great. It was running 8* initial when I got it. Popped it up to 12 just for an initial tune and tweaked on the carb. Plug looked ok for now, you can see that it cleaned up over how it was before. The po ran Autolite 45s which is what I would run in this. A little hotter plug for idling around LA.
It's got an Ed on it now which is not my favorite. Think I'll switch it out to a 600 Holley with kick down and electric choke. Gotta find a good deal somewhere, hmm, lemme see, who do I know..........

(hi Drew)

CDXXVII · « **Reply #66 on:** January 15, 2018, 09:07:59 PM »

A bit late to the conversation but I am pretty sure these guys make the interiors that Dearborn sells:

http://www.distinctiveindustries.com/

They are nearby too.

And a tip- That under dash convenience panel is kinda rare and brittle.

turbohunter · « **Reply #67 on:** January 15, 2018, 10:56:23 PM »

Thanks 177.

I've already ordered the seat material.
But I'm curious about the under dash panel. Planned to figure it out but haven't gotten there yet.

turbohunter · « **Reply #68 on:** January 24, 2018, 01:53:21 PM »

Was waiting to see if CDXXII would comment again but I guess he doesn't frequent the site. Can any of you Galaxie guys tell me about this pod o' buttons?
I'm trying to figure out if its going to stay or not. Or at least be incorporated into a console I want to install.

BruceS · « **Reply #69 on:** January 24, 2018, 07:32:51 PM »

Marc, I remember my Dad had that accessory on one of his FoMoCo company cars. It's a series of warning lights; lo fuel, seat belt, door ajar, etc. Modern cars have those in spades, but in those days it was a luxury option. Why not keep them? I love those kinds of things on our old Fords and try to keep them working. My '66 Fairlane has a seat belt warning light on a timer under the dash that still works after 42 years!

turbohunter · « **Reply #70 on:** January 24, 2018, 07:43:09 PM »

I want to keep them but I have to get them to work with everything else.
Notice the added AC that they're mounted to. Also have to add a stereo system which is important to me and a set of gauges. Just thinking out loud trying to get it all straight in my tiny little head. You guys give me lots of good info to bounce around and hopefully come up with the right way to do it.

CDXXVII · « **Reply #71 on:** January 25, 2018, 07:05:00 PM »

The same box was used 65-66 Galaxie with few changes. Mustang might have offered it too. The plastic is very brittle just like the speedo surround. If you over tighten the mounting screws you will break the tabs.
The 67 Galaxie box was different.
Trouble shooting shouldn't be that hard. Finding parts might be. Maybe nothing is wrong?
There is vacuum tubing running to the doors for the locks.
The fuel tank sending unit is specific to this option. It has a 3rd prong on the electrical connector for the sensor.

turbohunter · « **Reply #72 on:** January 25, 2018, 07:15:16 PM »

Great stuff thank you.
Yeah the vacuum system in this car needs to be rebuilt.
I'll trouble shoot it and see if I can save it. May as well as long as the dash is apart.
Thanks again for the info.

turbohunter · « **Reply #73 on:** February 02, 2018, 05:12:11 PM »

Sigh.........
Developed an exhaust leak,,,,,,,,,wonder why.

turbohunter · « **Reply #74 on:** February 24, 2018, 01:50:31 PM »

Ok I think I may have an answer to the cluttered dash area.
I'm not going to use the am radio. Tunes are pretty important to me here in LALA and it's freeways. Keeps me sane. I'll keep it all just in case. Not using the radio leaves a huge hole. Why not fill it with another radio? Nobody makes a nice system that will fit the holes in the plastic. Everything these days is way different so I'll just hide it.
I don't know about you guys but I have to have gauges. I think I'll move the gauges into the radio area. If I use short sweep gauges like are there already I can use the stock bezel with just a minor fix or two to the bezel/cover plate. I think it will camouflage in there pretty well with some black paint. I'll cut a whole new piece of plastic to cover it all.

jayb · « **Reply #75 on:** February 24, 2018, 04:53:24 PM »

I like it, Marc, that's a great place for those gauges. Looks kind of covert...

turbohunter · « **Reply #76 on:** February 24, 2018, 06:43:10 PM »

Ok here's a preliminary stab at it. These are the old gauges. Not sure if new ones would be better. I'll have to drive it around and see how it plays with my head.... or not. Of course I had to rewire it as whoever did it before left no extra wire....at all. I bought a sheet of lexan at HD that will work great in replacing the stock plastic face, so that original will go in the parts cabinet.
I think that as the restored dash pieces go back on it will hide the fact that these gauges are not stock. I think it will blend nicely.
Oh also, when I'm sure I want it this way I'll cut the round radio knob surrounds out of there so you can see the gauges better and it will look mo' betta. Don't quite know how I'll extend the fake chrome surround in the bezel face. I may not even try.
Oh also there is a 1/4 20 bolt and nut just hanging out there. It will go away. There is a cover that fit next to the radio and I will find the perfect mounting hardware.

turbohunter · « **Reply #77 on:** March 09, 2018, 05:03:27 PM »

Made a new "glass" for the dash with a piece of lexan.
Now to figure out what to do with that piece of tin that makes up the black surround.
Have to fix where the radio knobs were and where the radio push buttons came through.

turbohunter · « **Reply #78 on:** April 09, 2018, 09:05:52 PM »

I ended up buying some Autometer gauges to replace the old set. The oldies were pretty beat and didn’t light evenly so out they went. Good thing I did, found a problem at the oil filter adapter. The engine has been using a bit more oil than I want it to but most of the engine is pretty dry and it’s not burning it. I knew it was wet down by the adapter but when I got under there close up,,,,, jeeeez. I don’t have any huge puddles in the driveway so I felt like all was fine. Wrong. I guess it was pushing it out under pressure and just a drip or to in the driveway when it was off.
The reason I was down there is the new gauges have there own senders so I replaced the old ones. Impossible to get the new taller oil sender on without taking the adapter off so I dove under. The damn adapter was maybe a bit more than finger tight. And orange silicone was everywhere. I thought they had just not used a gasket and slather orange crap in there to make a gasket. Worse, there was half a gasket left that they didn’t bother to scrape off then silicone around it.

Not only that, the filter was on so hard that it broke my filter wrench. I had to take off the adapter with the filter still on then put it in my vise and ram a big screwdriver through it. Finally got it off and the filter O ring stuck to the adapter. They didn’t bother to lube the ring.
Anyway I cleaned everything up and put a new gasket on. All is well and the new oil gauge shows more pressure than the old one. Once I get the bezel back from restoration I’ll show you what it looks like with the gauges up there. It’s kinda cool. Oh I did cut off the little circles of black out in the interior tin bezel that covers the speedo and gauges. But I don’t think I’ll try to do any more to it. If I can find another I’ll mess with it more.

cjshaker · « **Reply #79 on:** April 09, 2018, 09:39:25 PM »

Nice

Judging by the looks of that, you're lucky it never plugged something up internally.

turbohunter · « **Reply #80 on:** April 09, 2018, 09:41:04 PM »

Exactly, I pulled some snot out of the passages with a hooked probe.

gdaddy01 · « **Reply #81 on:** April 15, 2018, 07:15:23 PM »

with the oil filter that tight , what did the drain plug look like ?

turbohunter · « **Reply #82 on:** April 15, 2018, 07:47:15 PM »

Good thought.
If you guys are wondering why I haven’t got to the oil until now. First there’s been plenty to do and the oil was new when I got it. As I had to replace what I was losing the oil stayed clean so I wasn’t worried. Aren’t old cars fun.

BTW my upholstery dude finally finished up a few jobs and called me to bring the front seat in so I’ll be a couple weeks or so without the seat. Gives me a chance to clean up the electric adjust.
My trucks were getting jeoulous anyway.

turbohunter · « **Reply #83 on:** August 08, 2018, 07:37:51 PM »

Well after 8 and a half months I finally have my dash back from Just Dashes. They told me going in they have a 6 month turn around. I started calling at 5 months in a nice way. Finally it’s done and it is beautiful so I can’t really bitch. They restored the plastic bezel by totally redoing it including rechroming the plastic and restoring the broken mounting tabs. The dash pad and hood are really works of art. They’re beautiful.
I’ll throw in a few more pics of the floor redo. Oh and Kevin, the carpet company shorted me on the drivers side just like you. I used your same fillin technique.

turbohunter · « **Reply #84 on:** October 26, 2018, 01:14:41 PM »

Thought you guys would enjoy a look at this.
My magic tailgate window stop going up and down. Took it apart this morning to see what was the matter. The motor drives a worm gear which in turn drives a plastic/nylon gear on a shaft that has an internal triangular chamber. In the chamber it looks like there was another triangle that takes up slack and drives the triangular bottom of the gear that drives the arms that role the window up and down.It looks like the intermediate plastic triangle got eaten up over the years and left its parts all over the insides of the assembly.
I think what I’ll do is head up to my friends shop and make a new intermediate triangle out of metal.
I’ll let you know how it turns out.

RJP · « **Reply #85 on:** October 26, 2018, 02:00:59 PM »

Quote from: turbohunter on October 26, 2018, 01:14:41 PM

Thought you guys would enjoy a look at this.
My magic tailgate window stop going up and down. Took it apart this morning to see what was the matter. The motor drives a worm gear which in turn drives a plastic/nylon gear on a shaft that has an internal triangular chamber. In the chamber it looks like there was another triangle that takes up slack and drives the triangular bottom of the gear that drives the arms that role the window up and down.It looks like the intermediate plastic triangle got eaten up over the years and left its parts all over the insides of the assembly.
I think what I’ll do is head up to my friends shop and make a new intermediate triangle out of metal.
I’ll let you know how it turns out.

That is the most common failure of power windows. Motor is fine..everything else is fine, its just the clutching mechanism that goes south. I got some aluminum round stock and whittled out 3 tri-lobe 'cams' using a hand file replacing the disintegrated nylon pieces.

turbohunter · « **Reply #86 on:** October 26, 2018, 08:23:09 PM »

Yeah that’s what I figured I would do.
It’s interesting to me that they would build it like that.

turbohunter · « **Reply #87 on:** November 30, 2018, 03:27:16 PM »

Well it was easier than I thought.
Found the easiest fix for he tailgate window motor.
Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard (and I’m sure others) sells bronco tail gate motor repair kits. The pattern for the mounting bolts are different but the internals are exactly the same. I was easily able to save my gasket and cover so I just installed the new gear prices and it runs like a top.
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Window-Motor-Replacement-Gear-Repair-Kit/productinfo/24544/

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