Help with block code

[Riskit1234]

Hello, I have a block that I helped pull out of a 1963 T-bird (single 4 barrel) that the odometer showed 73,000.  Guy said it ran good but smoked and had never been opened up.  I have the motor at the machine shop now and as things do.. I've changed my build idea to needing a very strong starting point.  What was going to be a simple 445 street motor has now progressed to a possible procharger F1, solid roller.  I don't think I'll ever rev it to the moon but I worry about the stress on the lower end with the procharger.  I've been trying to read as much as I can about the lower end and what can be done to help it.  You might have seen my last post on the eBay girdle that I did end up buying.  I figure while I'm at it I'll cross-bolt as well.  In reading about cross-bolting a 390 I read in 2 posts the late model 63-64's are good blocks for this but have the 2bolt engine mounts... How do I know if my block is a late model and more importantly a good candidate to cross-bolt and even more importantly use as my starting point.?  The motor reads C1AE, the heads C1AE60156 and all I saw on the crank was CIAE.  At this point its the block I'm going with unless someone points out "Its the worst block ever and this is why" (my normal luck)..  I had 2 other 360 blocks out of trucks (1968 already 30 over and a 73 stock) and my machinist said the 63 would be better.  But I think he only meant that because in general the metal used was better?  Atlas I think thats what he meant.



Thanks for any help

[thatdarncat]

In general, garden variety FE blocks are similar throughout production ( there are no "bad" blocks to avoid ), but with different characteristics to watch for. You already mentioned the 2 and 4 bolt motor mount bolt hole. Early blocks like you have often don't have the bolt hole at the front passenger side for the later alternator mount, something to think about. The early blocks also take a different thrust bearing, so a different bearing set. There is a work around for that. As far as the crossbolting, by your picture your block doesn't have what have been dubbed "knorbs", the extra bit of casting from the block skirt toward the main caps that 427 blocks have. That is the feature people have mentioned they have found on non 427 blocks in the 1964 to early 1965 era. The "knorbs" make it relatively easy to add the 427 cross bolts, I don't know exactly what is involved in trying to do it with a regular block, but I believe it can be done. By the way your date code of 1H22 is August 22 1961, so it would probably be for a 1962 model year vehicle, since most would have been introduced in September. All FE blocks should be sonic checked, especially in a performance application, don't believe anyone that tells you a particular year or casting number has extra thick cylinders. I'm sure people will add some other thoughts here.

[Riskit1234]

Excellent info, shows I didn't even know the correct year.  Block will be sonic checked in 2 weeks.  It just landed at the guys shop.  Fingers crossed...
Thank you

[WConley]

You can add the ProGram crossbolt caps to that C3 block, despite it not having the "knorbs".  Those extra features on some C4 blocks make it easier to fit the factory 427 main caps, but the ProGram caps don't use them.

Good luck with that build!

[Riskit1234]

In general, garden variety FE blocks are similar throughout production  Early blocks like you have often don't have the bolt hole at the front passenger side for the later alternator mount, something to think about. The early blocks also take a different thrust bearing, so a different bearing set. There is a work around for that.

Is there a work around on the Alt bolt hole?  I've been going back and forth on the pully set up to run the procharger and was leaning on the MARCH system I have on an other truck... My set up now is all on the pass side and I could run the charger on the drivers side.  The company I'm working with sent me the picture of the procharger but I don't want to run the ac like that, I like the way mine is low on the pass side.  Now if Im going to have problems using the MARCH because it wont bolt up I'll have to work that out.

Same as the work around on the different thrust bearings.... I'll start searching that but maybe you or someone could give the quick.

Thank you very much

[jayb]

What vehicle will you be using this in?  I think you mentioned this once but I forgot.  Anyway, you will have trouble fitting a Procharger into a smaller car like a Mustang or Fairlane due to the size of the supercharger itself.  When I put a supercharger in my Mach 1 I ended up with a Vortech V-7 Ysi blower, which fit under the hood and didn't require cutting any of the inner fenders.  There are a couple of pictures below.  In both photos the blower feeds into an air to water intercooler, but I ended up abandoning that because it blocked off too much of the radiator and led to cooling problems in the car.  When I eventually got the car sorted out it just used a 90 degree pipe from the blower outlet to the carb, and still made over 900 HP. 

By the way, I hope to have a kit to adapt the Vortech supercharger onto the FE available by the end of this year.  I'm already doing one for one customer.

[sixty9cobra]

Customer?  Your building engines now or just accessories?

[KMcCullah]

That early block will have the 2 bolt early motor mount also. I've hot rodded a few early blocks and with all the aforementioned differences, I'd wouldn't go forward with what your talking about. The '73 block you mentioned would be a better starting point I think.

[Riskit1234]

Ok, I started a very lame personal build post.  The first post is basic back story and it might help as to why I want to build what I am hoping to.  The second post is nothing really but some info. The thread is called My Side Bitch build... Thats the name of the truck Side Bitch.. I figure the money and time I spend on it is more or less makes it my side bitch:)

jayb: Its going to go in a 1968 F100 short bed I have.  I saw the pictures in your book (that book is crazy!! never would have thought it be that BIG, so much info. I think the name is deceiving).  When I talked with you I was trying to get this motor in the 73 truck I have but Id end up ruining a really nice truck.  The 73 has a 3 on the tree and is just a real nice driver.  As I was planing to build a better motor for it I kept having to make compromises.  I really want a motor that will test me, to me its exciting to work out problems.

I'm following the build that Blair Patrick is involved in with the twin turbo set-up.  I was gonna go that way on a coyote base motor but lost interest and wanna build this instead.

For the record I'm horrible at spelling (even with a college ed) and I'm even worse at writing... but sit at a bar with me and I bet you have fun:)

[jayb]

Customer?  Your building engines now or just accessories?

Just the parts, Harry.  I am NOT in the engine building business...

[Yellow Truck]

By the way, I hope to have a kit to adapt the Vortech supercharger onto the FE available by the end of this year.  I'm already doing one for one customer.

Under the heading of "A boy can dream, can't he?", what Vortech base unit are you adapting for the venerable old FE? Pretty sure with a 10.5 to 1 (or so) C/R I won't be putting one on this baby, but who knows?

[jayb]

The V-7 fits nicely in the Mustang engine compartment, but a V-4 will also be an option.  There's a mounting plate that will be able to be swapped out to handle the different sizes.  My 489" supercharged engine made 1030 HP with the V-7 YSi, about 17 pounds of boost and the intercooler.