1967 S-Code Mustang Barn Find

[unclewill]

So my neighbor found out I work on Fords and approached me about getting his Mustang running.  This guy bought a car cover, parked the perfectly functional car in the garage in 1978, and hasn't touched it since!  It is a 1967 Mustang fastback with the original (rebuilt) 390 and four speed.  He just brought it over to my house and we are digging into it.
A couple of questions for everyone:
1)  The engine turns freely - I subscribe to the "add gas and fire it up" school of thought, does anyone have a procedure for starting an engine that hasn't run in 39 years?  We are going through the obvious - all fluids and external accessories, radiator, water pump.
2)  The previous owner of the car added a manual shutoff valve to the PCV vacuum line - I've never seen this before and I'm not sure why one would do this.  Any thoughts?
3)  I suggested a couple of upgrades including a 750 double pumper carb (735cfm currently), a late magnetic pickup distributor, and MSD 6AL.  He is resistant to changing from stock components.  Any thoughts on the points type distributor?  Any other upgrade suggestions?
It is a great car and pretty darn clean considering, if you are interested see more at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ6fEM-MXkE
I will continue to add vids as this project progresses.
Thanks!

[unclewill]

Oh, and one last question:
I have a complete, running iron head 427 side oiler on a stand right next to this car right now - If it were my car there would be no question I'd swap the 427 in place of the original and "freshly" rebuilt 390 - would you?

[machoneman]

See this link:

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/start-an-engine.html

FE's are somewhat unique in that large spaces under the covers allows one to use a squirt gun and hit most of the lifters with oil. That and pulling the ditzy to pre-lube (see article: #1 best thing to do) the engine should make it good to go. Btw, I've also squirted light machine oil (10w) not regular motor oil, into each cylinder and then cranked it over by hand to lube the rings/walls.

Lastly, just like a new engine build with a new cam, be sure the carb is good, fuel is present, the timing is right-on and the engine starts with minimal cranking.

Btw, I'd start it, take a checkout drive (brakes? brake fluid?) and if o.k. drive it for awhile before doing anything. Likely, the valve seals are shot or will break off quite soon as with age they get very brittle. A smokey exhaust can be detected if you follow him in a chase car....as the engine rpm's decelerate, watch for smoke. 

[mike7570]

Paint it green dye upholstery black and claim it's a long lost 4th Bullet car.
Seriously, a 735 Holley is a good carb I would use it. Looking at the engine shot in the video someone changed it to a Edlebrock or something.

[Yellow Truck]

I would be interested to know why he parked it in 78, was there some other problem with the car? As for driving it to check the brakes, I think I'd check the brakes, then drive it. '67 S codes are hard to replace.

Don't ignore the cooling system in your look over. Probably not a bad idea to drain it before you drive it.

[ericwevans]

As far as the distributor, if it were me and I wanted to keep the stock distributor housing, I'd put a Pertronix unit in it.  They are fairly inexpensive and will go in place of the points, they even have a unit with a built in Rev limiter if you are so inclined.

[unclewill]

It's some kind of Carter carb, he says he has the 735 Holley but I haven't seen it yet.  It has a hot air line to the exhaust to operate the choke, but also connections for electric choke?  The hose routing in general is bizarro.
He parked it in 1978 for unrelated reasons, not because it was broken.  In fact, all of the components are still in "new" condition save for a thick layer of dust.  He has bought a new radiator, new water pump, new hoses, thermostat, water neck - the cooling is pretty tight now.  We're putting new
The Pertronix is a great idea, I'll see if I can convince him!  I run a Pertronix billet distributor on my 482.

[Dubs1]

As far as your new  gas goes,  see if you can find a station with nonethanol gas and stick with that.  If not available in your area  then put  in a can of  Sea Foam  with each full tank of gas. Its available at Walmart for $6.99.  Seriously,  the ethanol gas  will dryout all your carb gaskets  and carode  the metal  if left sitting  for more than a couple weeks.

Best of luck

Larry


   

[unclewill]

Thanks for the reminder, we are very fortunate to have an ethanol free gas station a few blocks away.  Lower octane though.