Author Topic: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels  (Read 14176 times)

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cammerfe

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #30 on: February 28, 2017, 04:00:21 PM »
You may well find pressed-in cup plugs on the second level down, as well. Use a punch to make a hole in the middle, screw in a wood screw and pull the whole works out.

KS

blykins

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #31 on: February 28, 2017, 04:07:42 PM »
If it's oiling all the lifters except the front 2, I can't imagine the lifter galleys are blocked...

Have had more trouble than I would like in the past 3-4 months with various hydraulic lifters not pumping up.  Just went through this last week with a hydraulic roller build.  One lifter would only spring up with pressure and even then I could push it down with my finger while priming the pump... 
Brent Lykins
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Heo

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #32 on: February 28, 2017, 04:09:24 PM »
I use self drillning sheatmetal screws
and a clawhammer to pull them out



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #33 on: March 01, 2017, 01:23:00 PM »
I'm considering replacing the cam and lifters wholesale with a solid lifter unit.  If the intake is coming off it's not that big of a leap to just swap the whole enchilada since my confidence level is low in the Comp products, and if I'm draining the cooling system I may just take the plunge on an aluminum radiator with dual fans.  Two things first though, it is my understanding that the "dumbbell lifters" will require no block mods whether its set up for solid or hydraulic right?  Also, here are the cam specs from Schneider - any thoughts?  I like the idea of 7000rpm redline and my valve springs will supposedly handle it:
Intake Duration (gross):    290
Exhaust Duration (gross):    290
Intake Duration (.050”):    258
Exhaust Duration (.050”):    258
Intake Valve Lift*:    .595"
Exhaust Valve Lift*:    .595"
Lobe Separation:    110
Intake Valve Lash:    .016"
Exhaust Valve Lash:     .016"
RPM Range:
   3000-7000
*Based on 1.75 Rocker Arm Ratio    
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

blykins

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #34 on: March 01, 2017, 02:09:12 PM »
It won't pull to 7000. 

Camshaft specs are universal.  The description doesn't know if it's a 352 or a 511, if you have factory C8AE-H's or new BBM's, etc. 

That's not a big solid flat tappet for a 482. 

I'd snake those bad lifters out through the intake manifold, put new ones in, and roll with it. 
« Last Edit: March 01, 2017, 02:11:12 PM by blykins »
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
YouTube:  Lykins Motorsports

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #35 on: March 01, 2017, 03:57:41 PM »
I figured I'd shut it down in the 6000-6200 rpm range, it's just nice to know I won't be floating valves.  Snake the lifters out?  Are you serious?  I'll try it...
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

blykins

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #36 on: March 01, 2017, 03:58:37 PM »
Yep, get you some good telescopic magnets and pull the lifters out of the bores.  On most intakes, there's a couple of spots where you can fit a flat tappet lifter through without pulling the intake.  ;)
Brent Lykins
Lykins Motorsports
Custom FE Street, Drag Race, Road Race, and Pulling Truck Engines
Custom Roller & Flat Tappet Camshafts
www.lykinsmotorsports.com
brent@lykinsmotorsports.com
www.customfordcams.com
502-759-1431
Instagram:  brentlykinsmotorsports
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Drew Pojedinec

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #37 on: March 01, 2017, 03:59:10 PM »
Get a magnet on a stick and a flashlight, you'll get it.  It is normally at this point where you wonder if you really needed to use that valley pan on this engine build.

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #38 on: March 01, 2017, 08:57:55 PM »
Grrrr...that tray!  It still doesn't answer the question "Why?"  I also won't be able to check the galleries.  Could be an $85 mistake.  I haven't ordered lifters yet 'cause this house ain't gonna paint itself.  I'll get back on it soon...
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #39 on: March 03, 2017, 04:27:14 PM »
"Why" has now been answered.  Hydraulic lifter oil gallery was plugged by previous engine builder to facilitate solid lifters.  Kinda what I expected to find.  It IS possible to remove lifters with a magnet while the intake is in place - but getting new ones back in is futile.  Such a big time sink you might as well just take the intake off to begin with.  Four forward lifters on each side are soft, rear eight are OK because they seem to get adequate drain back oil from the top to pump them up.

I am at a loss right now though...whoever plugged the galleries torqued one of the screw in plugs so tight against the press in plug that it stripped the hex.  I've drilled it out but the loctite prevents me from removing the threads and fully extract the remains of the press in plug.  A mess.  Also, in the other side, I drilled through some kind of plug, then turned over the oil pump to verify a clear passage when something SHOT OUT of the oil gallery into the lifter bore then dropped down somewhere into the engine.  Unfishable with a magnet, I now have a "floater" somewhere in the engine.  I don't even know what it is or how many.

At this point I am weighing my options.
« Last Edit: March 03, 2017, 04:28:49 PM by unclewill »
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #40 on: March 03, 2017, 09:24:01 PM »
Valvetrain is totally set up now, lash is perfect.  Galleries are open and plug has been replaced.  This thing is ready to go back together the only thing left is the piece of plug or whatever that I hope is in my oil pan - how bad is windage in these engines?  I'm hoping it will work its way down to a large magnet stuck to the pan without causing problems.  It was the rearmost lifter bore on the pass. side where it fell...
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

Drew Pojedinec

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #41 on: March 03, 2017, 11:20:29 PM »
Some magnets on a stick can fit in the oil drain plug hole.

As far as what to do next.... well that depends on what you can live with.

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #42 on: March 06, 2017, 10:45:39 AM »
What a miserable week!
Ok, I started the engine with the eight new lifters installed and within 2 minutes clack clack clack!  Pulled the passenger valve cover and one more collapsed lifter was found - fifth one back!  Grrrr...90 minutes of fishing with the magnets gets the old one out and new one in, thankfully I bought a couple of extras.  Startup, sounds OK but the oil is so wasted now with possible contamination from multiple sources including metal shavings from drilling, coolant drip from disassembly, etc., that it and filter must be replaced before further break in.  I'm running a HUGE magnet on the pan to pull any metal to the bottom and eventually the drain plug.  Going back to the big city for a few days to get parts, then I'll try again.
Lessons learned:
Verify oil flow through all galleries prior to assembly.  Do not assume a hydraulic lifter block is still set up for hydraulic lifters!
Check all valvetrain clearances carefully and mock up without the intake in place prior to assembly.  Even factory parts will make contact with valvesprings!
Save the heartache, pain and money by building an LS motor instead - haha just kidding (maybe not).  All of this is my own fault BTW - hubris.
More to come next week.
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50

jayb

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #43 on: March 06, 2017, 07:16:43 PM »
Keep after it, it will be worth it when you get it all squared away!
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

unclewill

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Re: Aluminum vs Cast Iron Noise Levels
« Reply #44 on: March 14, 2017, 09:26:30 PM »
Well, it's done now!  16 lifters, two oil passages and a few helicoils later, I broke the 482 in today.  Hopefully over the hump now, with many lessons learned!  Thanks for the help, guys!
1969 Ford Cobra, 482 side oiler, BBM aluminum heads, FiTech EFI, Edelbrock 7105, Comp 292H, CR 4 speed, 9", 3.50