Author Topic: New Cammer owner  (Read 16537 times)

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ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #15 on: February 07, 2017, 03:38:26 AM »
I'd use stock bolts except I don't have any laying around. I will probably get the caps machined in case I ever change over to main studs. I checked the bolts holes in the block and they are deep enough to allow the bolt heads to sit below the pan rail.

Heo

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #16 on: February 07, 2017, 05:27:05 AM »
I use ARP studs in my engines. Not that i dont trust
Ford oem fasternes but i dont trust the former "mecanics"
that have "torqued" the bolts...Impact wreches,extesionpipes...
Huuuh?? Torque wrech??? :o  dont need that just a 2m extesion pipe



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

WConley

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #17 on: February 07, 2017, 11:58:41 AM »
Todd -

Be sure to chase out the main saddle threads with a bottoming tap if you're going deeper.  There's probably decades of crud in those bottom threads.

Also make sure there's no grease in the bottom of the holes.  I've seen cases where people have cracked block saddles from hydro-locked grease or crud in the bottom of main bolt holes.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #18 on: February 07, 2017, 05:17:20 PM »
Good point Bill, I'll make sure to do that.

I dropped the heads off yesterday to a local guy I trust, he will check them over, give the ports a minimal clean up and then flow test them. I'm also going to give him the 2 intake manifolds I have to test, a factory single 4 barrel and a Munro 2x4 single plane. Will be interesting to see what the heads actually flow, as they are as near to a stock iron head as you can get.

I also plan to take the block and rotating assembly to another local machine shop to be checked over. I may end up replacing the rods, as I am unsure of there origin and some of them have some pitting on them from being exposed to the environment when the previous owner stored the engine. I'll see what the guys at the machine shop think about them.

I noticed yesterday when I stripped the engine, that some of the bores have a few bad water stains in them, again from the way the engine was stored. Hopefully the machine shop can get them cleaned up okay without having to take out any material.

fekbmax

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #19 on: February 07, 2017, 05:46:54 PM »
Iron head SOHC ..
Thats just cool..
Keith.  KB MAX Racing.

machoneman

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #20 on: February 07, 2017, 07:26:49 PM »
Yes, let's hope the bore clean up with literally some wet/dry paper or a real, real light ball hone run through.

On the rods, my experience has usually been due to their forged steel composition (dense surface, not prone to interior degradation) they should not only clean up fine but be fully usable. Great though you'll have another set of eyes check them.
Bob Maag

WConley

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #21 on: February 08, 2017, 12:32:15 AM »
Let us know how your heads flow.  I see those are factory heads from an original numbered engine assembly (from the PB marks and 106, 113 numbers).  Cool score!

My factory iron heads flowed 350 CFM at .600" lift, but they got a light port massage at H-M's shop in Charlotte when new.  I'll be curious if that's close to pure stock.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

jayb

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #22 on: February 08, 2017, 08:53:38 AM »
I had my set of cast iron heads flowed, with no porting, and got a peak of about 335 cfm on the intake.  But it doesn't take much work to get those to 400...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #23 on: February 17, 2017, 01:40:47 AM »
Okay, just got my heads back from being cleaned, checked and flow tested. It appears that while they are not entirely stock, they have had only a minor clean up in the bowl area just behind the valves. They also only had a 30 degrees seat on both intake and exhaust, and the exhaust seats are extremely thin, so that is something I will have to keep an eye on if running unleaded fuel. Otherwise, they are in good condition. The chambers were measured at 123cc.

The flow results, at 28" through 2.25" intake and 1.90" exhaust valves. The 2 tests were done, one on each head. The results are within a couple of cfm of each other.

Lift        Int/Exh
0.100"   91/69
0.200"  172/124
0.300"  236/162
0.400"  275/192
0.500"  312/209
0.550"  323/217
0.600"  332/227
0.650"  342/234
0.700"  351/241
0.750"  357/248
0.800"  358/254

I also had one head flowed with the factory C6AE-J single 4 intake manifold attached, a 1" 4 hole spacer and an 850 Holley. The flow was checked at 0.500" lift and at 0.700" lift at both an inner and outer port. At 0.500", the combo flowed 274/277, and at 0.700" it flowed 302/287. So as I suspect, the 4V intake will be a bit of a choke on these heads, which is why Ford moved to the 8V intake manifold for later production engines. However, I will still run the 4V, as it is a fairly rare piece and still should be able to support a streetable 550hp.

I also took the bottom end to a machine shop to be checked out. As soon as the head of the shop saw the conrods, he said throw them in the bin. They are a cheap import brand made in India and of poor quality. So I bought a set of Scat H beams with the ARP2000 bolts, which also should be sufficient for my hp goals. The block checked out okay, apart from needing to have the decks squared, which is good. So the machine shop will do that and then rebalance the rotating assembly.

Once I get it back home, I will check the clearances and measure the piston dome volume to see what the static compression will be. Once I know that, I can then order a new pair of cams for it.

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #24 on: February 27, 2017, 02:10:57 AM »
I picked up the bottom end from the machine shop this morning. They faced the decks, re-bushed the new rod small ends to suit the piston pins, polished the crank journals, spot faced the rear main cap so the ARP bolt heads sit below the oil pan rail, and then rebalanced the rotating assembly. I will be using a McLeod twin plate clutch with this engine, so gave them the kit flywheel to balance. Surprisingly, it needed about 60g taken out to balance. The clutch kit is supposed to be for an internal balanced engine, but all is okay with it now.

However, when I got the block home, I noticed a crack at the very front of the LH deck. I have posted a thread and picture in the Technical section regarding this. From the front surface of the block, it looks as though it may have been repaired there in the past. So until I determine whether this block is okay to use as is, or needs to be repaired, this project is on hold.

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #25 on: June 19, 2017, 03:12:33 AM »
I have been making some progress with getting my SOHC engine back together. The bottom end is all assembled, I have new Comp cams and matching valve springs and retainers, and am at the stage where I am checking the valve lash clearance.



The rockers on my engine are the early style that use lash caps of varying thickness to set the valve lash. The original Ford engines were supplied with a variety of lash caps varying in thickness from 0.020" to 0.078", in 0.002" increments. However, I don't have that set, only what was on the engine when I bought it. I found a company here in Australia that can make precision ground lash caps, but the thinnest they can make is 0.040". And, unfortunately, I need 6 lash caps that are in the 0.030" to 0.038" range. I have tried swapping different rocker arms onto different valves, but with no change.

At this stage, unless I can get hold of an original set of Ford lash caps, I need to find a supplier who can make lash caps in the 0.030"-0.038" thickness range. Another option I have is that I bought some extra 0.040" lash caps, and I will try and find a local machine shop that can turn or grind them down to the thickness I need.



Does anyone have a suggestion as to what is the best way to go here?
« Last Edit: June 19, 2017, 03:47:10 AM by ToddK »

jayb

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2017, 08:00:48 AM »
Grind the 0.040" caps to the thickness that you need.  It is easily done on a valve stem grinder, should be common equipment at most machine shops.
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #27 on: June 19, 2017, 08:31:38 PM »
Thanks for that Jay. I was hoping something like that would be possible, just wasn't sure. I'll report back on the results.

WConley

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #28 on: June 19, 2017, 11:58:02 PM »
I was able to do just that on a lash cap cammer rebuild a few years back.  It worked out fine. 

Yes the valve stem grinder is the perfect tool.  Just go gently so you don't put too much heat into the cap.
A careful study of failure will yield the ingredients for success.

ToddK

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Re: New Cammer owner
« Reply #29 on: August 16, 2017, 11:30:51 PM »
Time for a quick update, and testing out a new photo hosting site.

image by Todd Keen, on Flickr

I now have the engine assembled. When I bought the engine, it was missing the rear plug from the side oiler block that goes into the oil pressure relief valve. I have bought a new plug from Doug at POP, just waiting for it to arrive. Once I get that installed, I can prime the oil system.

I had the magnesium valve covers polished, they came up way better than I was expecting. In the picture, they have a light coating of Gibbs oil on them, which has so far been keeping off any oxidation.

I also have to finish sorting the alternator mounting brackets. I have the upper bracket, just waiting on an adjuster bracket that Jay recommended to arrive from Summit.

Hope to have it all ready for a run in on the dyno in the next month or so.
« Last Edit: August 17, 2017, 02:33:46 AM by ToddK »