Diverging a bit from the question, but Uniltes do indeed crap out if not fed correctly. It's all in the directions, but for some reason, people, including me when I installed my first one, ignore it or assume it's fine.
The key here is thinking about what the distributor sees when it makes a ground, not what it sees for a feed to the module. Unilites can handle over 14V to the LED light bulb, so the red feed wire really can be fed by about anything, where it gets dicy is what your coil sees on the positive side, especially after the battery is charged.
Mallory says 10V if I remember correctly, that and the proper coil, controls stray voltage at the module as it completes the circuit and collapses the coil field. If just run with a standard resistor wire to the coil, or the incorrect coil or ballast, they can last forever or not too long. Jay, you likely can explain better what is seen by the distributor when the coil collapses,
Faron actually turned me onto that after I had a failure in a not so nice part of Vegas. When I checked running voltage at the coil, I was well over 13V, added the correct resistor and never lost another.
People add surge protectors on the feed side of the module, check the voltage there, you name it, but when you dig into Mallory's guidance, it's very clear, and they even mention is severe cases to run a condenser on the neg side of the coil to stabilize what the module sees from the backside.
Again, none of this is a factor if you are running a CD box, the box manages the coil, the distributor turns into a low voltage switch
That being said, absolutely true statement, Dursapark doesn't need nearly the thinking, nor does any magnetic pickup that I know of.
