Drag Week 2015 Day 1, Gateway Motorsports Park

[SE2839]

Good Luck Jay.

I have been off the sight as I have had to put my car on moth balls for the time being and don't want to frustrate myself reading others posts and desiring to have mine on the road so consequently I missed that you were passing through town and missed the opportunity to say hello. (read into the above; photo op and opportunity to see your ride in person)

[cobracammer]

Hey Bob.  That's an interesting fix.  Do you use some sort of lock nut/ washer to it doesn't swing back?  Good Ideal for sure.

[cobracammer]

bunch of cars and packing it in on the first day" . He mentioned Jay admitting a string of problems and wished him well. Then Jay laid down a 8.88 @ 149.02

Possibly in a rush to exit bad company?  HAHAHA

[machoneman]

Hey Bob.  That's an interesting fix.  Do you use some sort of lick nut/ washer to it doesn't swing back?  Good Ideal for sure.

Yes, just a regular bolt, washer (to prevent the lock washer from digging into the starter's flange) and lock washer. Btw, if one is careful, a very small amount of grinding is all that is usually needed to open up the lower hole.

 Leave the top bolt a tad loose while also being  sure to hold or lightly pry the bottom of the starter out (away) from the ring gear while tightening that lower bolt. Tighten the top bolt last and your good to go.

[jayb]

Bob, your "fix" won't work if you use the factory block plate.  That plate has a hole that indexes the starter directly, with the flange on the starter.  You can't move the starter in an out with the block plate in place.  You should always use the block plate on the FE, because one of its key purposes is to put the starter in the correct position.

[machoneman]

Well.......it can work on the block plate if the amount the starter needs to move out is small and that's often usually the case. There is some 'play' to be had between the stock plate hole and the starter's lower ear. 

In other cases where it isn't enough, clearancing that large hole in the plate with a die grinder, where the starter's nose resisters in the block plate (more work, for sure!) provides more room for the starter to move out. It's usually not a lot that needs to be removed from the frame side of the big old hole either. Agree too that one should always use the OEM plate.

With an OEM block and an auto tranny plate this would be a rare modification. But, with an aftermarket blow-proof stick bellhousing that is centered, either fix is sometimes needed to bring sufficient clearance to the ring and Bendix gears, as I found out.

 

[Falcon67]

Bob, your "fix" won't work if you use the factory block plate.  That plate has a hole that indexes the starter directly, with the flange on the starter.  You can't move the starter in an out with the block plate in place.  You should always use the block plate on the FE, because one of its key purposes is to put the starter in the correct position.

Also make sure it's not "cocked" in any way - my car has the opposite problem in that if the lower bolt gets even a bit loose the starter will wing away from the flywheel.  Just a hair of play is all it takes.  Usually misfires in the trailer, which is a fun place to try and jack up a car.

I may have missed it in the way back - how are you keeping the trans temp in line at that low RPM.  I run a 4200 stall on the street and can go a ways, but 25~30 miles at 3000 or so (about 55~60) I need to let the trans cool off some.