Classic car newb with a 390FE and lots of maintenance & perofrmance questions

[fastback 427]

The msd stuff is very nice. 100 bucks off is a good deal. I have the 8594 distributor and it's a quality piece. Standard  6 al box is more than you need. Also if you want to save more money, just get a factory ford duraspark distributor.  They spin up to 8000 rpm on our distributor machine with no problems.

[Jackal]

While I haven't had time to research the MSD dist. vs. Duraspark, as long as it won't hurt performance I am all about saving some money on a Duraspark if that is the case, but where would I look for a re-curved Duraspark dist.? If I do run a Duraspark, do I need this MSD adapter?

http://www.msdperformance.com/Products/Accessories/Harnesses/8869_-_Cable_Assembly,_Amp_Female_To_Ford.aspx

Additionally, am I still good to run the Blaster SS coil or would I instead want a Blaster 2 coil? Thanks for all the help / patience guys. I am working 15+ hour days and trying to get this b!tch on the road at the same time. Ugh...

Bet this is a stupid question, but...will I still use a timing light to manually set initial timing with this setup? Do I need a "timing MAP" for the 6AL, or do I have to have it dyno tuned, or...

[Drew Pojedinec]

-For a lower performance model, I'd get the Autozone special, clean/fix and curve the distributor yourself.  For higher performance, call Faron
-I use that cable, it's a nice and clean install.
-I use the Blaster 2, have no experience with the other one but I imagine it'd be fine.  If you are really dollars pinched, there is nothing wrong with running the points for a little longer.  Another way to save a few is to use the Duraspark ignition box as well.  Just get a Ford one (should be about $70)

Yes, timing light for initial.
Scotty wrote this info years ago, it's worth a looksee:
http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

it is several pages and covers your future project.
Good luck
Drew

[jayb]

The Duraspark distributor pickup works directly with the MSD, just connect the wires like they show in the MSD instructions and go. 

You can get the stock Duraspark distributor recurved by Faron, who posts a lot on this forum.  Hopefully he sees this.

I'd defer to MSD on the coil.  If the MSD6 instructions say you can use the Blaster SS coil, should be no problem.  The instructions should be available on MSD's web site.

I like to set the ignition timing as total timing, rather than an initial value.  After you have the distributor curved you will know what RPM the advance is fully in at.  Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and rev the engine up a little past this RPM value, and then set the timing at 36 - 38 degrees for stock heads.  Then let the engine idle down and see where your timing is at idle.  Most of the time you'll see values in the 12-16 degree range.

[Jackal]

Thx again for the valuable info guys!

[Jackal]

I reached out to Faron on the dizzy.

Is this considered an acceptable ground for the elec. choke, looped back onto itself and grounded through the carb?

[gdaddy01]

The Duraspark distributor pickup works directly with the MSD, just connect the wires like they show in the MSD instructions and go. 

You can get the stock Duraspark distributor recurved by Faron, who posts a lot on this forum.  Hopefully he sees this.

I'd defer to MSD on the coil.  If the MSD6 instructions say you can use the Blaster SS coil, should be no problem.  The instructions should be available on MSD's web site.

I like to set the ignition timing as total timing, rather than an initial value.  After you have the distributor curved you will know what RPM the advance is fully in at.  Disconnect the vacuum line to the distributor and rev the engine up a little past this RPM value, and then set the timing at 36 - 38 degrees for stock heads.  Then let the engine idle down and see where your timing is at idle.  Most of the time you'll see values in the 12-16 degree range.

[gdaddy01]

do you plug the vacuum line back in and then the timing goes up to about 45 to 50 degrees ? the vacuum is not part of total timing ?

   

[Nightmist66]

I reached out to Faron on the dizzy.

Is this considered an acceptable ground for the elec. choke, looped back onto itself and grounded through the carb?

In a word, yes.

[jayb]

do you plug the vacuum line back in and then the timing goes up to about 45 to 50 degrees ? the vacuum is not part of total timing ?

Poor choice of words on my part, because the vacuum advance is a part of total timing.  I should have said initial advance plus centrifugal advance.  When you time the engine the vacuum line should be disconnected from the distributor, so that if you are running at an engine speed high enough that the centrifugal advance in the distributor is at maximum, you will see the initial (idle) advance plus the centrifugal advance in the distributor.  Adding in the vacuum advance will give you additional advance over what you timed the engine at.

[C6AE]

As Jay said, the vacuum advance is part of the total timing, but for a street car 45 + degrees will be fine at partial throttle or cruise and give you significantly better fuel economy. Roughly 20%. As soon as you approach WOT the vacuum advance will drop out and you will then be on the mechanical curve only.

do you plug the vacuum line back in and then the timing goes up to about 45 to 50 degrees ? the vacuum is not part of total timing ?

 

[gdaddy01]

As Jay said, the vacuum advance is part of the total timing, but for a street car 45 + degrees will be fine at partial throttle or cruise and give you significantly better fuel economy. Roughly 20%. As soon as you approach WOT the vacuum advance will drop out and you will then be on the mechanical curve only.
thanks guys , clears it up

do you plug the vacuum line back in and then the timing goes up to about 45 to 50 degrees ? the vacuum is not part of total timing ?

 

[gdaddy01]

THANKS GUYS , CLEARS IT UP

[Jackal]

...so far so good with a week on 5 oz. of Seafoam. In fact she seems to "get better" every time I driver her.

Checked some castings today. C3AE 9425 B intake and C3AE 6090 C heads. If I did my homework right, this is a 390-4v intake and 390 "high altitude" or 406 heads (if they have machined spring seats). Couldn't this also just mean that they are the standard 390-4v high CR head? With a valve job, how would these heads compare the something like Edelbrock Perf. heads?