Author Topic: welding pro port heads  (Read 3061 times)

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toolmaker

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welding pro port heads
« on: May 08, 2015, 11:36:23 AM »
Well here is my idea I really like the TD rocker set up for the BT heads vs the Edelbrock head. So why not just weld up the pedestal area on the eddy head to be like the BT head. Then have the pro ports CNC,d. Any thoughts?

ScotiaFE

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Re: welding pro port heads
« Reply #1 on: May 08, 2015, 04:56:53 PM »
You can machine the Edelbrocks for the TD Rockers. No need to weld them up.
So yes you can get Pro Ports with TD Race rockers.

toolmaker

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Re: welding pro port heads
« Reply #2 on: May 08, 2015, 05:43:27 PM »
Yes I understand I can machine them for the td rockers I just had a thought since they are still raw I could weld them prior to all the cnc work and have a mounting just like the BT heads and maybe have a taller port as well. Just a thought I had.

jayb

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Re: welding pro port heads
« Reply #3 on: May 08, 2015, 06:11:53 PM »
I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

toolmaker

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Re: welding pro port heads
« Reply #4 on: May 08, 2015, 06:24:31 PM »
What the hell im going to try it. Now would anyone like to share some information with me like the measurement of the rocker mounting area to say the spring seat area on the BT head. That would be great thank you a head of time.

CaptCobrajet

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Re: welding pro port heads
« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2015, 10:03:42 PM »
It is doable, but raising the port with that scenario will usually compromise the strength of the mounting pad.  I think it is much better to bolt the subplate for the T&D on with the five 1/2" head bolts.  No stress on the tops of the ports that way.   Raising the port then poses no potential problems with pulling the fasteners out, or pulling the tops off of the ports.  Longer valves and a slight relocation of the subplate towards the center of the engine will allow the T&D subplate to be mounted higher on the head while still maintaining correct geometry.  You can also tilt the mounting pad slightly to improve geometry in some instances, and spot face the bar back parallel with the deck where the bolts go.  Lots of ways to skin a cat......LOL.
Blair Patrick