Author Topic: 427 FE Big Block Starter  (Read 11016 times)

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Phil0618

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Re: 427 FE Big Block Starter
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2015, 06:26:12 PM »
Ok, so I pulled the starter and spark plugs and rotated the crank manually. The ring gear is good. Whew...

Now for the starter issue. I measured the gear engagement to the flywheel on the old starter and it is about 13 mm in (18 mm if measured from the block plate) and engages a total of 10 mm. Of course Robb MC makes a replacement, i.e same model 3001 with the nose all for $299. I however am not so sure I want the same one. It always seemed to strain. I am thinking I could get a CVR or other mini and mill the face of the mounting about 5 mm to get what I need. I just cannot believe Robb MCC is the only choice.

Seems this is an issue with early Shelby blocks. I am just so glad I have no flywheel damage.

Phil

jayb

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Re: 427 FE Big Block Starter
« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2015, 08:09:20 PM »
Can you get Robb to repair the one you've got?  That would be the cheapest route, I'll bet...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

My427stang

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Re: 427 FE Big Block Starter
« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2015, 08:54:26 PM »
And I thought I was the only cheapskate that ran stock starters...Nice to know I'm in good company. I've run stock cheapie rebuilt FoMoCo starters in boats as well as my cars. V-drive boats generally need to be started in gear which places an additional load on the starter as well as the 514", 12.5 to 1 C/R tunnel-ram BBF its cranking. Never had a failure, knock on wood. Other things to look at regarding starter failure is make sure you have good quality cables, [read soldered ends] proper sizes cable, welding cable works good as it has more strands of wire for a given guage than parts house battery cables that usually have crimped ends. Quick & dirty test for bad cables is feel where the hot spot is, that is your resistance. Make sure your ground is grounding properly and connected to the engine and not the chassis. Again feel for the hot spot in the cable or terminal. A bad connection/reduced voltage can effect starter engagement just as bad as tooth misalignment, bad gear mesh. Another reason I like cheapie parts house rebuilds is you can usually find them anywhere which is a plus when you are on a road trip. Be a bummer when you need to overnite a new custom starter to you when you get stuck in some Podunk town that rolls the sidewalks up at 8 PM.   

Stock for me too, 10.7:1 489 and 10:1 445, both have been in there for a VERY long time.  The Mustang's starter is 15 yrs plus and the truck 7 or 8.  Certainly not as much motor as some, but not tired 352s either :)
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Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

Phil0618

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Re: 427 FE Big Block Starter
« Reply #18 on: May 07, 2015, 08:46:50 PM »
Ok, I will probably get grief for spending so much, but I took my old one into Jegs and matched a Dynaforce 9503. Put it in, bumped the engine around a few times and pulled it back out. I then looked at the markings for engagement with the flywheel and it looked great. I did not need the supplied shim. I then put it back in and added a ground strap to the casing (probably was not needed) and fired it up. Let it warm up, shut it down and fired it back up with no issues. So for now all is good. Thanks for all the kind advice here. I am learning from the best of you sages about big block FEs. Now it will just take a while to get my grimy hand prints off the white headers and side pipes. I will wait till it cools down for that!

Phil