Starter help needed

[Lenz]

Having heat soak issues with my 1:1 Powermaster starter.  Swapped it from my standard compression .060" over 390 to my current 9.8:1 445.  Works fine cold, when hot have to wait 10 minutes to cool.

Went to Powermaster site and also googled a few things, didn't end up with a clear path.  Main issue is that I'm running an older 157 tooth flywheel, the gear reduction starters I've found are for '65 and later 184 tooth flywheels.

Any starter recommendations?  Really do not want to change the flywheel, it cleaned up well and is fine for my current mainly street duty application.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Describe the issue better.
Does the starter crank really slow?  does it not crank at all?  etc.  Does it improve if you retard the timing when hot?

I live 1000 miles south of you where it is considerably hotter.  I run a stock starter in one vehicle and a crappy autozone starter in the other, both with good batteries.
My hot start issues were all fuel related, and not starter related.

I blocked the exhaust crossover in the intake, insulated the fuel lines, insulated carb spacer, etc etc to cool the carb/fuel.
Electric vs mechanical fuel pump helps as well.

[Lenz]

Drew, when I look at the original question I can see where we do need more info.  Fuel delivery isn't the issue in this case.

Starter cranks fine cold, will engage and maybe get 1/2 rotation on the crank before it quits cranking when hot.

Engine fires right up if you can get the starter to roll it over.  Once cranking, even right after the 10 minute wait on a "Sorta hot" engine the starter will keep cranking till fire-up.

Running headers (naturally) that are very close to the starter.  Part of the reason for my post was looking to see if anyone knew of a smaller gear reduction starter, maybe even a clockable one to get the best position as well that would fit the older flywheel.

On timing, I did back it off a few degrees last week during some good weather to see if the situation improved, no change except the expected performance impact.

Finally, I have not had the starter tested either, it looks brand new but age and condition of the internals are unknown.  If I do yank it I do not want to put a standard full sized starter back in.

Thanks for the time-


 

[Drew Pojedinec]

Fuel delivery isn't the issue in this case.

I did not mean to insinuate it was a delivery issue.... more of a boil over issue.
Either way, good luck.  Can be a frustrating issue, both of my vehicles were bad about it before I got it all worked out.

[Heo]

The bushings in the starter is worn or the mecanical
advance in distributor get stuck on max advance when
engine is hot. The pull of the springs realease the  advance
when engine cool down. Happened to me a couple of times
Trie to crank it with the wire to the coil removed if it crank
fine with the ignition of its problem with the ignition

[Lenz]

Understood Drew, appreciate the input.  I worked out my "angry fuel" issues last year, spent august tossing gremlins into the microwave as I recall.  She's super reliable now except for this deal.

Cool tip Heo, I know I wouldn't have thought of that.  I'll definitely check it out. 

[Heo]

It usualy happen on cars thats not used
so often lack of lube and use makes rust
forming
Lube it up and see thath the wheights
moves freely

[wayne]

How is the cable going down to the starter i had this problem and went to a bigger cable. And it fixed it feel the cable and see if its hot after you try to start it the small one got real hot.The bigger one stays cool.

[Lenz]

So anyway all, did not buy a new quick time bell when I built.  Went with an older bell I found in Arizona (way old cast 4848339).  Had to grind the starter outboard mounting flange down by about .015", slapped it in, shoved it outboard and it is good to go. No room for when it got hot, it would throw it on the bind. Anyone building a serious racer would laugh but this problem kept me off the street for 6 months.  Go figure.