Author Topic: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!  (Read 28324 times)

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Bolted to Floor

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A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« on: March 14, 2015, 11:25:58 PM »
Now that the car is home from the body shop, it’s time to start putting it back together. I’m looking forward to the adventure. I hope to have it drivable by the end of the year.  ;D

Untitled

IMG_8733

Just need to figure out where to start.
Updated photo 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:22:39 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

ScotiaFE

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Re: A 67 Mustang
« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2015, 06:05:52 AM »
Nice!
Rip the axles out of it drive train?
Those are my favorite drive trains. :D

thatdarncat

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Re: A 67 Mustang
« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2015, 07:09:56 PM »
Looks sharp, just keep thinking how fun it will be when done.
Kevin Rolph

1967 Cougar Drag Car ( under constuction )
1966 7 litre Galaxie
1966 Country Squire 390
1966 Cyclone GT 390
1968 Torino GT 390
1972 Gran Torino wagon
1978 Lincoln Mk V

Stangman

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Re: A 67 Mustang
« Reply #3 on: June 09, 2015, 10:05:34 AM »
Beautiful I have the same color only a fastback love the hood never seen one with the louvre a definetly will help with cooling

cobracammer

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Re: A 67 Mustang
« Reply #4 on: June 09, 2015, 03:48:05 PM »
Ditto. Love that hood!
Jason
2005 Saleen S281 (427 SOHC 2 X 4 EFI swap), T56 Magnum XL 6 speed, 9" Currie rear with 3.89 Gears

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #5 on: October 04, 2015, 04:01:35 PM »
The car had a Lincoln Versailles rear end that I had bought years ago. I didn't want to hassle with the calipers or the parking brake, so onto Craigslist where it finally sold. Scared me to death to pull it out of the car, terrified of scratching the paint.

I bought a 9 in. housing and 31 spline chunk w/3.50 gears from 69-Jetcar on FordFE. I have them cleaned up and painted. The housing is now installed in the car. The new axle shafts they should be here on Tuesday.



IMG_0482

IMG_0540

IMG_0534

I'll be heading to the local pick-a-part next weekend to look at the Explorer rear disk brakes. According to Google searches, they will fit on the small bearing housings by elongating the holes.

Edit for gear ratio
Update Photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:22:12 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

BruceS

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #6 on: October 04, 2015, 07:01:06 PM »
Looking good John!
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

Nightmist66

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2015, 07:41:11 PM »
Very nice! :) what gear ratio?
Jared



66 Fairlane GT 390 - .035" Over 390, Wide Ratio Top Loader, 9" w/spool, 4.86

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #8 on: October 04, 2015, 09:42:10 PM »
Thanks guys. It's a 3.50 ratio. I was looking at a 245/45/17 for the rear tires and the TKO 600 .64 overdrive should have me going down the street pretty good. If the width does not work out, I'll be looking for a narrow tire with the same height.
« Last Edit: October 04, 2015, 09:44:49 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

cjshaker

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #9 on: October 05, 2015, 09:39:05 PM »
Looking good, John. That thing should be a blast to drive, even with a mild FE engine! How is that plan working out for driving it by the end of the year?
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #10 on: October 05, 2015, 10:07:41 PM »
Looking good, John. That thing should be a blast to drive, even with a mild FE engine! How is that plan working out for driving it by the end of the year?

Not worth a dam.  :'(
But I will keep plugging away at. I'll keep the pictures coming with progress.

I've got contact info for a machine shop that can turn the 3.98 crank and balance the assembly to make a 410. But haven't reached out to them yet. One of many things on my To Do list.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #11 on: July 24, 2016, 12:25:16 PM »
It’s been a while, got a slow start this ear due o health issues, but all better now. I have finally started doing something on the car.

I got the gas tank in first to provide a staging area to set the parts I gathered up for install. I am continually looking through all the places in the garage for stuff I have bought. Got a nice little pile of double purchases so far. I bought a 20 gallon tank cause that FE should be thirsty. Since the filler inlet is at a different angle than my tube, I took a precision approach to the leveling of the area. 2 pound hammer and the block of wood in the photo. “Beet to fit, paint to match”, “Caulk it if it leaks” does not apply to the gas tank!!!
 
Then the filler tube needed to be sectioned since it overlapped the tank inlet about an inch. A little work with a hack saw and tig welding by a guy from work and it fits like a glove. 

IMG_1352

I worked the block of wood around the inlet and didn't get too much deflection in other areas.

IMG_1342

The offset before sectioning.
 
9 P7170017

And after sectioning. You can see the weld bead in the area between the brace and the tail light panel.

Update photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:29:01 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #12 on: July 24, 2016, 12:39:09 PM »
I had intended to install the Explorer disks out back. So the new 31 spline axle shafts from Jegs got new bearings. (I wasted money on the axle installation kit “bearings, seals, and wheel studs” from Jegs. Poor shopping on my part. The bearings were fine, the seal was wrong, and the wheel studs were too short.) Since there were no bearing on the shafts, the guy at the 4X4 shop only charged $20 for the bearing install. The axles went in with the U shaped bearing retaining brackets from Jegs. This was right before the car went back to the body shop for some touch up work. I was in a hurry.

 The main reason I wanted the Explorer brakes was for the drum feature of the emergency brake. After purchasing the stuff from pick a part and getting it home, I was not thrilled with how the bearing would be retained. Or some of the methods I had seen used after I did more research. They should work great on a big bearing housing, but I have the small bearing!!! For me, gap between the axle housing flange and the Exploder backing plate that results from the bearing sticking out of the housing should be measured precisely for a machined spacer. I saw a post where someone used your typical 3/8” flat washer as the spacer!!! I couldn’t go that route as a permanent fix, but it did well enough to get the car winched on and off the roll back for a trip to the body shop.

Next step was the buy the GT rear brackets from MS and do a mock assemble. Everything looked like it would work without the axle shaft installed. With a new set of axle bearings from the parts house, about $45, & $80 bucks to get the old bearings off and new ones installed. I made certain to mark the axles and the retaining brackets as right and left and gave the guy a copy of the instructions. My poor choices had cost me enough money so far, I didn’t want to add a shop mistake to cost me more. Luckily, it all worked out well. The back brackets got installed without issue, then the rear end went back together. Now, I can’t remember if I put the additive, or gear oil for that matter, in the rear end for the traction lock unit???? And I need to install the pinion snubber. Too many mental notes, they all run together.

 For the rear, I bought new stuff from Blue Oval industries. It was the Ford racing M-2300-G2 conversion kit for a 9”. It was $225 shipped to the house. New calipers, rotors, machined spacers for rotor, mounting hardware for big bearing housing, brake pads, and dust shields. It’s a lot of stuff and that box was heavy, I guess they are closing it out. I also bought new Ford flexible brake hoses for connecting to the hard lines from the place that TKO had mentioned.  Next came the emergency brake cables. I looked at setting it up just as MS shows, but it looks like the end of the cable will pull at an awkward angle as the lever pulls forward. After some thought, I cut some card board templates for a bracket that could be welded to the spring plate. A 9/16 nut with a 9/16 drill bit ran through it is perfect for the cable ends to slide into. It keeps a nice arc as it goes through the motion. The pictures are with the suspension at full droop, the cables are tight to the spring and spring plate, but should be OK when the suspension is loaded. After I got them installed, I realized I will need to do something different for traction bars!!! Tonight as I’m typing this up, it dawns on me that I could have mounted it to the U-bolt in the same area as the bracket. Hind sight, right. 



IMG_1682

Fresh from welding
 

IMG_1690


Had to cut down on the metal bracket Ford put on them and they worked out well. The hoses had clips for connecting the ABS cable, I guess, to them. That got cut off and rounded with a file.

 

P7160034

P7160041

I got this picture and view a little later. That same type of tab welded to the nut to space it out from the center of the U-bolt would have probable worked. The length of the cable may come into play though.

Updated Photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:33:41 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

BruceS

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #13 on: July 25, 2016, 08:18:48 AM »
Enjoyed the post John, and good seeing you last Saturday nite at Nifteefiftees. Bruce
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

cjshaker

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #14 on: July 25, 2016, 08:41:42 PM »
That wallet is looking a little fat for having all those new parts, John. Better do something about that  ;D

You have to love the look of all new parts. Everything is so clean and easy to work on, it's like looking at a new car that just rolled off an assembly line today, except it's easy to work on..lol. Looks like you about have the suspension finished up. What's next?
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2016, 09:52:17 PM »
Hey Bruce, it was fun to chat, lotsa nice Fairlanes that night.

Doug, it’s already deflated.  :'(  Bought several new parts you can’t see yet. Cleaning the garage is next. I have to get my Lovely Bride’s car back inside. I’ve got some other stuff done, but can’t seem to find the time to get it posted. 
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #16 on: August 07, 2016, 05:56:38 PM »
I bought a 3/8” fuel line for a 68 to install. It was a little tricky getting it around the subframe connectors, but it went. Had to drill a few holes also. 


IMG_1344


The front brakes use MS’s GT brackets. I got take off calipers, hoses, dust shields, and pads in 13 or 14, when they were still available. Everything bolted up good. I used the late model hoses supplied with the calipers. Just like the back, I rounded off the extra connectors for holding the ABS cable. A little cutting, filling, and drilling got the bracket on the end ready for bolting to the car.

IMG_1345


IMG_1343


Years ago, (I’ve been buying parts since 04 as money was available) I bought the pre bent brake lines for a disk brake car, mine original had drums. The decision made since at the time cause I wanted disc!! I’m not sure if it was the mid-year change or the difference in a drum and disc car, but the line to the rear wasn’t bent to fit my car. The front lines wasn’t working out either. So, another set of brake lines were bought. Those fit much better. I think I’m fair at bending the tubing, but didn’t want the hassle for the entire car and I was dreading flaring the ends. The more factory ends the better.  Had issues with that in the 90’s and haven’t done it since.

With the hard lines in place, it was time to mate them to the late model hose that need a bubble flare. From advice on the site, I bought the shortest hard line from O’reilly’s for the fittings and cut them off. The hex on those fittings are not the same size for a stick. Figured that out before the second flare!!  Several you tube videos later, a borrowed tool from a guy at work, and I was set. On my very first practice piece, I broke the die stuck in the end of the line. : (  I bought a flaring kit from Harbor Freight, took a little more time, and was able to get the four ends flared that I needed. Then gave the tool to the guy at work along with his partial set. Breaking someone else’s tools is the main reason I try not to borrow stuff.


P7160027


P7160031



That got my lines complete from the calipers back to the pressure differential valve. I needed to install a proportioning valve to go with the rear disc. I was hesitant to mount between the apron and the booster down low with the knob up cause it would be extremely difficult to get to for adjustment. The Borgeson box went in so I would not interfere with the Proportioning valve. The booster was in place already. After asking if it had to be mounted in some certain orientation, I drilled a hole in the apron and mounted it with the knob down into the fender well. Should be a lot easier to adjust. Made several attempts at the double flare with the flaring bar I had with no luck. More you tube videos, and I was back to Harbor Freight for another flaring kit that I would keep. A couple of test runs later and they went together. Brake lines complete from distribution block to calipers. Now, will they leak when brake fluid enters the picture?  ??? I sure hope not.


P7240017
 

P7240019


The firewall from the inside of the car was painted silver to reflect some light, and it helped to see. Added body sealer to the seams on the bottom side of the cowl for good measure. Then sprayed the rubberized under coating on the inside firewall, back too hard to see. Mounted the clutch and brake pedals in the car, then the power booster went on.


P7220022



Back in March, I had the parts in my truck at work to take in for balancing. It was show and tell for one of the other guys at the office. He was looking at the rods and said the pin is floating. I’m like “yea, FE’s are that way, you Chevrolet boys have to pay extra for that”. Then he showed me where the random rod he picked up had the bronze bushing sliding around on the pin.  :-[


The engine will be a .060 over 410. I dug the crank out of a 410 in the early 90’s from a pick a part. Didn’t cost much at all and the afternoon to pull it out. I should have bought the complete engine, lessons learned.

The first trip over, I took the crank, rods, and cast truck pistons to Houston Engine and Balance for balancing. After discussions on pricing for new bushings in the little end and new bolts, and the cost of new rods, I opted for new Eagle rods. Next trip over was to carry the new rods, harmonic balancer, flywheel, and pressure plate. Trip after that was the block for a bath and decking. The crank was standard, got mag’d, and cleaned up at .010. The flywheel was drilled for an 11” clutch and the pressure plate was 11 ½”. Jeff drilled the flywheel to match. The block was cleaned, lifter galleries tapped, new cam bearings installed, square decked and cut for a zero deck height. All came back ready for assemble.



I ordered a set of Felony heads from Survival and those are now sitting in the garage too. I will run a hydraulic roller and will be asking for help on selection.


Next step in car assemble will be the master cylinder to complete the brake lines and installing the hydraulic clutch. Over the last couple of weekends we did some cleaning and purging on the garage. Still have some more to go. We can get 3 cars in a 3 car garage, haven't been able to do that since we bought the house.

Update photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:51:26 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #17 on: June 13, 2017, 11:18:27 PM »
Its been a while since my last update, but I am slowly working on the car.

The brake and clutch master cylinder have been mounted. A trip to pick a part provided the correct fittings for the master and some tubing to get around to the distribution block to complete the hard lines for the brakes.

2016-08-14 20.25.02


A second fuel line to be used as a return has been installed. It's a 5/16" that follows the factory route through the trans tunnel toward the front.

IMG_3951


IMG_3947

Updated photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 10:56:47 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #18 on: June 13, 2017, 11:21:40 PM »
After my wife got tired of watching me spend so much time looking for parts that I’ve bought over the years. She had this solution. I wish she would have thought about it sooner.

Untitled

The Borgeson box is mounted and the column has been cut down to fit. I still have to buy the MS bearing to keep it stable. I dropped in the short block with one head to check routing of the power steering lines. I will need to go underneath the car, cause there just isn't any room to bring them up top and have decent clearance around the headers. The slip on fittings in the pictures will be replaced with crimp style for installation.

IMG_3945

Update photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:01:43 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #19 on: June 13, 2017, 11:22:54 PM »
The Painless harness is routed through the car. The front and back sections was pretty straight forward for placement. The under dash section was a little more intimidating. The right side door switch wiring was not long enough to route the way Ford did, so it went the direct route. Since I bought a Vintage Air system, I pulled the AC wiring from the Painless harness and will use the feed for the Vintage kit. I've terminated the backup lights, dome light, and right door stuff. I will have to make changes under the hood to go with the 3G alternator. The plan for down the road is to add a fuse block other accessories down the road.

IMG_3990

Update photo 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:03:47 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #20 on: June 14, 2017, 12:08:58 AM »
I finally got tires and wheels installed. After much gnashing of teeth on whether they would clear the brakes, I ordered 1 American Racing VN527 Mag with Grey Machine Lip with 4.5 inch of back spacing from Jegs to see if they would fit, then ordered the rest. They are 17 x 8 on all corners wrapped in Michelins Pilots. The fronts are 235/45/17 and 245/45/17 in the back. For now, the fronts tires get within a ½” of rubbing the frame on the back side of the control arm when the  wheels are turned hard to lock. I think that will change when the suspension gets loaded.

IMG_4850


IMG_4851

Update photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:07:29 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

chilly460

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #21 on: June 17, 2017, 08:08:27 AM »
Enjoying the updates, thanks for taking the time to document and share.  Nice clean work and good "Real world" solutions to fixing issues.

BruceS

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #22 on: June 17, 2017, 08:28:06 AM »
Good, clean work John!   :D
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

turbohunter

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #23 on: June 17, 2017, 09:34:00 AM »
You cracked me up with the picture of the parts on a board.
I'm guilty of putting parts where I know I won't forget them……………then do.
Nice solution and great work on the car.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #24 on: June 19, 2017, 08:36:47 PM »
Thanks Guys.
Marc, I'm guilty of that too. Along with some parts that I've bought twice.  ::)

The machine work on the motor was completed last year. I bought a roller cam and lifters through Brent this year and started to assemble. Had to clearance the block and bell for the headers. Got the crank in and torqued. It spun over by hand fairly easy, hurray for the little wonders. Getting the caps off the Eagle rods was a chore. That was a snug fit. Had to do a google search to figure out how the rods should attach to the crank with the bearing offset to one side. With that figured out, I could assemble the rods and pistons. Then stuff them into the block.

IMG_3746

IMG_3768


Cam went in next along with the timing chain and time to degree it!! Which is something I haven't tried to do in 25 years. Using a borrowed micrometer that fit down the lifter bore, I read a couple of articles, watched a couple of you tube videos, and gave it a whirl, then repeated all 3 steps 4, 5, or 8 times, I lost count. For some reason I thought that installing it 6 degree advanced would get me to the 106 centerline, boy was I wrong. 6-8 hours later, I had a decent understanding of how to degree the cam and mine is installed a 106 using the -4 degree slot on the crank gear.


IMG_3808


Got the rocker arms set up on the new shafts, POPS end stands, shined to be over the valve, and rocker studs. Set the head on and used one of the old head bolts to hold it in place. There was not a lot of room to fit a socket over the head bolt, that can't be right, off to the googler. Turns out there is a nice set of installation instructions to go with Barry's heads. Found out I needed new head bolts or studs, what plugs are recommended, what gaskets are recommended, and several other useful items. That paper may have been in the box with the heads, but I saw something shiny and got distracted!! More parts ordered.


Measuring for push rods were the next fun task. First time - Made a checker out of a ball on ball that I had just like others had suggested. Using info from Smith Brothers website, I took some measurements and asked for some feedback here. Brent promptly set me straight about the Morels taking a 5/16 ball. Second time - bought a pushrod from O'rielly's with 5/16 ball, adapted to checker, took measurements again, twice for each rod actually. There was a spread in the numbers from 8.678 TO 8.722. Some would have more than the required preload, others would have less, and I would need to buy different lengths for the intake and exhaust. Decided it was best to use the adjustable rockers and buy 1 length for all push rods. Third time - a racer buddy from work scrounged up a cup on ball pushrod to be altered for the checker. Reset rocker shafts within adjustable rockers. Measured them all again twice for repeatability. Took the dimensions back to Smith Brothers and ordered them. Man was I nervous to see how they were going to fit. Spent most all my adult life taking measurement to the nearest 1/8". Low and behold, they seem to fit just fine.
Pic 3911, 3934, need pic of final checker and bottom of motor.

IMG_3911

IMG_3934

IMG_1285

Update photos 6/4/18

« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:16:35 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Bolted to Floor

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #25 on: June 19, 2017, 08:39:24 PM »
Time to check piston to valve clearance. Placed some plumbers putty on the piston top. Smear oil on the valves. Get everything set-up on #1 and spin the motor over. Pull the head, no marks on the putty. I have plenty of clearance!!! That feeling lasted till I had the heads torqued down, all the pushrods in place and rocker arms adjusted. Turning the motor over with a ratchet watching the valves go up down and saw the lifter collapse to let the valve spring back. Whoops. I wasn’t in full on panic mode, but I was greatly concerned and it was time to walk away for a bit.

After talking with the racer buddy at work that gave me an old pair of solid rollers and reading the link to Engine Labs he sent, I would tackle this again. Barry’s instruction for the heads also noted at what crank degree to check the clearance for the most likely contact points.

My new push rods were too short to use with the solid roller so, I took the scrounged up push rod and connected it back together. It took a while for me to grasp doing all of this with the head in place. At one point that Saturday, I was frustrated and ready to load it all in the truck and take it back to the machinist and pay him whatever to make sure it was right. On Sunday with a new view on things, more reading, and videos behind me, it was sinking in. My biggest AH HA moment was when it dawned on me that yes, you are checking one valve before TDC and the other after TDC. You’re doing this on the intake stroke and the exhaust stroke, not the same stroke……..you guys don’t laugh too hard, I’m slow sometimes. I still don’t know the exact amount of VTP clearance I have, but I drove each valve down .200” at 5 & 20 degrees before and after TDC for the corresponding valve. I figured that was good. By the time I was done, there wasn’t much of an interference fit for the adjuster screws on the number 1 cylinder. A set of Crane adjuster screws and jam nuts were ordered. Added a windage tray and did a little clearancing where the dip stick gets close.
With the pan installed and it sitting upright with 7 ½ quarts of oil, I used a long ¼” socket and extensions all taped together for priming. It didn’t take long for to make a puddle in the floor. What a great day.

IMG_4812

IMG_4739

IMG_4863

Update photos 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:23:17 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #26 on: June 19, 2017, 08:42:20 PM »
It’s ready to go visit Jeff, with Houston Engine and Balance for a little Dyno time. I’ve stopped by several times to ask questions about what I need to bring. Just trying to be prepared. I will use my $45 Craigslist find 750 Vacuum secondary. I bought some parts from Ebay to make it look like the 735’s. Dropped it off with PRC Precision for a rebuild at Jeff’s  recommendation. He wanted to know cubic inches and cam info. Steve suggested to add the rear metering block for 4 corner adjustment. Said it should be close and he is willing to stop by the dyno shop while its bolted up if need be. Now I wait on an open slot at the shop.

IMG_4877


This weekend I installed the evaporator case for the Vintage Air system, the ducting, and wiring installed for the most part.  I need to call Painless to verify the AC circuit they provided will carry the Vintage Air system and some questions over grounds. It fit up in there petty well and the dash is starting to get full.

IMG_1288

Spent part of Sunday afternoon figuring out which way to go next. The steering column needs to come back out for clean-up and paint. I need to add a power distribution block for other accessories and get the Painless harness configured with a 3G alternator and whatever I need to protect the wiring. 

Updated photo 6/4/18
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 11:27:09 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #27 on: June 20, 2017, 12:40:20 PM »
Man you're in the thick of it. Cool.
You made me chuckle with your statement about buying misplaced parts again.
Just wanted to let you know you're not alone.
What's the best way to find a misplaced part? Buy it again  ::) then poof, you find the original.  ;D
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #28 on: June 20, 2017, 02:19:02 PM »
Man you're in the thick of it. Cool.
You made me chuckle with your statement about buying misplaced parts again.
Just wanted to let you know you're not alone.
What's the best way to find a misplaced part? Buy it again  ::) then poof, you find the original.  ;D

Is it me you talking about? ;D ;D



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #29 on: June 20, 2017, 09:06:43 PM »
What's the best way to find a misplaced part? Buy it again  ::) then poof, you find the original.  ;D

Guilty as charged Guys.  ;D

I was about to make a trip to the hardware store for screws for the gas pedal when I found them on the board. Took another 10 minutes to find the gas pedal, it was in the last place I looked.  ::) Still attached to the wire it was hanging on for paint. 
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #30 on: July 03, 2017, 12:46:08 AM »
Well, I poured brake fluid in the master cylinder and was rewarded with more puddles!! ???   It ain't the same feeling as oil on the floor from priming the engine. It would have helped if I had checked to make sure all the fittings were tight too. ::)   There were a couple of double flares that needed to be redone also. With no leaks now, the back have been bleed and I have to replace a flex hose in the front. Should be here in e few more days.

The fresh air vent on the driver side is installed along with the parking brake mechanism. I pulled the column back out to take it for painting.


I got a call from Jeff, the engine came to life. Man, what a feeling. He opened the filter after break in and said all looked good. I don't know that I could ever get across how great it was to see it sitting on the stand and running. This is the point where THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU is sent out to all of you for sharing the your knowledge. I could never have done this by myself. I got a video of the final run and a print out that shows 503 Ft.lb @ 3800 and 452 HP @ 5200.

Link to dyno page
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=5039.0

It's back home in the garage and I started getting the accessories and bracket bolted on prior to stuffing it into the car.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #31 on: July 03, 2017, 08:18:50 AM »
Oh man you're getting close.
Congrats.
Funny about puddles on the floor, I was at that point yesterday and chickened out. Figured I'd go over it one more time. I'm sure even after checking I'll still have a puddle or two.
Congrats again.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #32 on: November 08, 2017, 09:22:59 PM »
Started getting the accessories mounted before the engine goes in the car. Figured I would have more room to work. Mounting a 3G alternator up high required me to shave off part of a bolt hole that was on the back. No big deal, done. Now I have just enough clearance. Scrounged up a V belt pulley for the swap. It needed a washer on the back side to not rub on the housing. The way the pulley is made, I could not get a full nut on the Alt shaft. So I took the pulley and washer to the machine shop and had him turn down the back outer edge of the pulley by the thickness of the washer and turn down the front shoulder by half the thickness. I would say it was no more than 1/8” on either side. Pulley doesn’t rub and there is a full nut for tightening.

The bracket for the Sanderson compressor that came with the Vintage Air kit is a work of art and fit great.

I scrounged a pick a part for a Ford with a Saginaw style PS pump and found one on a van that was partial disassembled. Twenty minutes later it’s unbolted from the van and a few more minutes with my favorite hammer to remove the cast aluminum bracket and I had a good core for mock up. The V-Belt pulley was harder to find than the pump. The right age Chevy’s were few and far between with pump gone except for the one with a double pulley. Finally hit pay dirt with a Chrysler!!

I used the steel PS bracket that Ford did with the adjusting slot to get the pump over where I wanted it. The typical cast aluminum PS pump bracket that Ford used would not line up well with the Saginaw pump mounting holes and the pulley was way off. Turns out I could use a piece of flat plate in front of the steel bracket and the pulley lined up very well. Measuring the mounting holes on the front of the Saginaw pump was a pain and I missed one by a small amount, enlarging the hole helped. Did anyone know those four bolts are on two different planes?? It’s about 3/8” difference in elevation. With the accessories bolted on where I “think” I want them, it’s about time install.


John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #33 on: November 08, 2017, 09:27:54 PM »
Got the flywheel bolted on with the Quicktime and checked the runout, and it was within tolerance. I unboxed the transmission that’s been collecting dust for the last 3 years and went to looking it over and got the hydraulic throw out bearing set up.




It’s funny what you do sometimes to when you don’t have the proper tools. This was the closet thong I could find to the proper line up tool. Wrong spline count and wrong diameter for the pilot bushing. Layers of blue tape got the diameter close enough and twisting the clutch disk down over the splines milled them the proper size.


John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #34 on: November 08, 2017, 09:37:07 PM »
The Brother in law brought an extra pair of hands to stuff this thing in the car. With the clutch assemble installed and the motor hanging from a chain, the transmission slide right into place on the first try. First thought was we left something out and need to pull it apart, but we didn’t. Played with the output shaft with the trans in and out of gear and was happy with the results. 

We installed the motor tranny combo with a header bolted to the driver side. Note to self for next time is have the handle for the leveler to the back so it won’t hit the hoist!! Used the floor jack under the car to get the trans in place on the mount. Set the bolt in the driver side and repositioned the hoist to lift the passenger side up of the install the header from the bottom. Used the Felpro 1442 header gaskets and ARP bolts with the 5/16” hex head and anti-seize.










John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #35 on: November 08, 2017, 11:18:03 PM »
This is the current ride height on stock replacement spring that hasn’t seen a drivetrain in 25+ years. If it don’t settle out some more, I will be cutting a coli at some point.




The more I looked at it, the more I became my own worst enemy. The top of the PS pump was leaning out further than I really liked. So, Time to re-drill the top pivot bolt and cut the bracket down.

Before


After


I know, it doesn't look like it moved very much


Decided I didn’t like the alternator up high. So, I used the Ford bracket as a template for the mounting holes and traced it out on 3/16 plate. I added a spot for an idler pulley and asked the guy at work to weld it up. The alternator is now down low and I hope the belt has enough surface area to not squeal.



John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #36 on: November 08, 2017, 11:23:20 PM »
The driveshaft came in about a 1/4 inch under the optimum length. Took three tries ordering parts for the emergency brake to get all of them.  ???  For the first time since the 80’s the car is connected from the balancer to the rear end with a working E-brake.  ;D




John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #37 on: November 09, 2017, 05:02:20 PM »
Nice looking engine and engine bay! Great, sharp pics too.

Do not cut the front coils...yet! Let it settle in, roll the beast back and forth a lot while turning the steering wheel. Then a short ride. Once settled, then figure out if a cut is needed. Btw, it's damn hard to tell exactly how much to cut. Figure 1/2 a coil to start if need be.....then repeat the above. Less IS more here!

BTDT and it's a pain as I did 3 iterations (!) on my '70 Stang before I hit the sweet spot. But I never had to buy new coils because I cut too much off!  8)
Bob Maag

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #38 on: November 09, 2017, 09:37:07 PM »
Bob, Thanks for the compliments and advice. I’ve bought double parts several times already, don’t need to add coil spring the the list.

I’m thinking about the doing the Shelby drop too.........Now, it’s sinking in how much work it will be to make it look right. It would be nice if it handles decent though.  :-\
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #39 on: November 10, 2017, 10:42:50 AM »
Nice work John!  +1 with Bob on the coil cut; I ended up cutting a half-coil off to get the Fairlane sitting right, and it dropped the front nearly an inch.  I'd give the car a chance to settle a bit by doing those "exercises" Bob described before you decide for sure. 
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #40 on: November 10, 2017, 08:51:42 PM »
Thanks Bruce. Have you started on the transplant for the Galaxie?
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #41 on: November 10, 2017, 09:14:41 PM »
Looks beautiful John.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #42 on: November 10, 2017, 10:49:12 PM »
Thanks Marc
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #43 on: November 11, 2017, 08:55:32 AM »
John - haven't started my 482 Galaxie swap yet, just gathering small parts right now.  Have another project I want to finish up first (a vintage quarter midget resto) so probably won't tackle the Galaxie till the first of the year.  Bruce
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #44 on: November 11, 2017, 01:00:32 PM »
Great work!

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #45 on: November 11, 2017, 01:47:54 PM »

Quote

I'll be heading to the local pick-a-part next weekend to look at the Explorer rear disk brakes. According to Google searches, they will fit on the small bearing housings by elongating the holes.

Edit for gear ratio

The rear discs from a 92 and up crown victory or grand marquis same as the explorer, but uses the small bolt pattern. You may need a spacer ring for the bearing. Are a few places that sell them.

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #46 on: June 04, 2018, 11:37:42 PM »

Quote

I'll be heading to the local pick-a-part next weekend to look at the Explorer rear disk brakes. According to Google searches, they will fit on the small bearing housings by elongating the holes.

Edit for gear ratio

The rear discs from a 92 and up crown victory or grand marquis same as the explorer, but uses the small bolt pattern. You may need a spacer ring for the bearing. Are a few places that sell them.

Thanks for the tip. I spent an afternoon walking around a pick a part taking pictures of rear brakes and saw those. It seems like the bolt pattern was rotated 90 degrees from the 9 in and would cause the caliper to rotate also. At least that's what I remember, but its been a day or two.  ???

Seemed easier to buy Mustang Steve's brackets.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #47 on: June 04, 2018, 11:53:42 PM »
I have been working on the car over the last 6 months and have made some progress. They have been trying to stress me out at work, so I've been trying to get in as much garage therapy as I can.

I used a piece of Swagelok tubing to route from vacuum port in the intake runner toward the brake booster. 

IMG_6047

Went back to wiring so it can be complete before I drop a battery in to crank it. The interior is mostly complete for routing and some end device connections. Thanks to Bullet Bob for the list of Terminal Supply part numbers

 Wiring to the rear is complete with the sending unit for the gas gauge connected. Front running lights and headlight pigtails are in. Relays for the headlights are installed by the Duraspark box on the left fender apron. I got the Painless harness to the Duraspark harness I bought figured out, I think. I got a 3 prong weatherpack connector to connect the power feeds and a tach signal wire from the Duraspark harness to the Painless harness.

  The gauge cluster wiring took some more thought and digging. The Painless harness is set up for an ammeter and oil pressure gauge. My car has a tach and idiot lights for the oil and alternator. The 67 shop manual shows diagrams for gauges or lights in the charging section, I just had to merge the two. The 3G alternator adds to the confusion.

I started with tracing the wiring diagrams for the gauges to see what wires went where. Next, I traced out the wires in my factory harness to compare what was different. Then I started on the Painless harness to see how they did it. I made several sketches before I finally decided on what I thought was right. A few calls to Painless Tech support and the guy agreed that it should work, I started cutting and splicing wires.  ::) ::)

Since I didn’t buy the Painless kit for a 3G alternator, which took me a little figuring too. This is another one I think I got right!

Alt and Oil Light Model
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #48 on: June 04, 2018, 11:58:50 PM »
When I bought the Painless harness about 6-7 years ago, Jegs gave me the wire loom kit. I didn’t care about it then, but I have realized I really like it. Thank you Jay Brown for telling us the same stuff can be bought a McMaster Carr for a lot less money. After adding the extra wires along the normal path that Ford took for the Aux fuse block and ground, fog lights, the AC switch for low pressure, and a head light feed I had to change to a bigger size loom.

IMG_6775

I bought Type GXL/TXL, depending on the size, colored wire in various sizes from the Wirebarn in 25 foot coils to do the things I needed above.  The first spot on the Aux Block went to the headlights.


I cut out a flat plate from sheet steel that’s been around the house forever to hold 3 MIDI fuse blocks and tapped holes to secure them. I used some red insulating board pulled from a moth balled piece of switch gear as an insulator to the steel. Had to buy some fuses, 150A for the alternator, 70A for the Painless block, and a 40A for the auxiliary block. Got some spares to keep in the glove box too.

A #2 in red goes from the battery to the solenoid then to the starter. A fused #6 goes from the alternator to the battery. The top side of the smaller fuses are tied together with #8. #2 black is the engine block ground. A black #10 goes from the negative battery post to the interior for a ground block and a #10 for a chassis ground. There is a bond wire from the back of the head to the chassis too. Lugs from Grainger, my crimp tool, matching colored glue lined heat shrink and I was in business. I bought late model battery clamps from Ford after I noticed them on my company truck. I liked the way they bolted down on the battery post and have a stud for securing the ring terminals.

IMG_6901
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #49 on: June 05, 2018, 12:02:17 AM »
The exhaust system is a 2 ½” Flowmaster bolt in kit. I was surprised how well it went in. With the slip fitting elbows near the header collectors, I got everything to line up nicely with at least a fingers worth of clearance where ever needed. The ball sockets for the header collectors was butt welded to the end of the elbows. No cutting was required on the kit to get it in my car. The Flowmaster mufflers will be gone when I hear a drone. The next set will probably be Dynomax.

IMG_6628

IMG_6595

IMG_6928
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #50 on: June 05, 2018, 12:06:03 AM »
I sway bar I got years ago from PST, turns out to be for a small block car!  >:( Another one of those things I didn’t know 15 years ago. So, I bought a sway bar and Bilstein shocks from Opentracker. The back shocks are installed, the front shocks are half installed and the sway bar is back ordered!! The tops won’t be bolted in till I have everything in place so I don’t have to work around the export bar.


Mounted the reservoir to the firewall and got the hose connected then bent up a bracket to hold the lines to the throw out bearing away from the pressure plate.

IMG_6751

IMG_6984
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #51 on: June 05, 2018, 12:16:51 AM »
I have laid under the car on many occasions looking at a route for power steering hoses. I didn’t want to come up over the shock tower like the typical hoses from Borgeson. I used some swagelok tubing to make hard lines that start near the oil filter adapter and go back toward the bell housing. I cut up 4 11/16 electrical box covers to make the first set of plates for securing the hard lines. I used rubber hose to mock up on both ends for connections and made some reference marks to determine lengths and took it all to Katy Hydraulics for real hoses along with pictures of how it would be routed. He suggested steel braid since I would be about 3/4” away from the headers. After looking at my tubing, he suggested using silver solder to attach AN fitting. It would be more cost effective than him recreating the pieces!! Back home under the car, I’m tweaking one of the tubes when I broke a fitting loose.  ::) I did have the box end of the wrench on the fitting trying to tweak the tubing. ::) If you’re gonna be stupid, you gotta be rich……….I wish I was!! I left that hanging and I went on the other stuff. It’s the Friday before Easter and I trying to get the car started before the end of the weekend. I did get the fitting repaired the next week and all installed. It's full of fluid and made turning a lot easier.

This is what I took the guy as a template
IMG_6790

IMG_6792

IMG_6793


This is what I got back

IMG_6798


John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #52 on: June 05, 2018, 12:26:28 AM »
I installed the steering shaft only on the car. The tube was painted a while back along with a few other pieces and for some reason, the paint doesn’t quite match the rest of the interior pieces. Body shop guys suspects the paint went bad from sitting. It was several years between parts. Anyway……I was surprised that it was relatively easy to get to the rag joint to tighten the bolts. You may notice in steering wheel moving around as I turn it in the video.

My wife assembled the condenser, mounting brackets, dryer, and hoses to get it back into the engine compartment. She got it bolted into the car and I checked to fittings to make sure they were tight. I bought a 4 core Champion radiator, factory fan shroud, an 18” replacement type fan blade from Summit, and the Hayden 2711 fan clutch to hopefully keep the car cool. It’s a HUGE radiator. The shorter fan clutch is a “have to”. There is just enough room the pull the fan clutch off the water pump with a piece of cardboard between it and the radiator. It’s been 25 years or so since I pulled the motor. I have forgotten how much of a puzzle this thing is to put together. Plenty of parts on and off as I figured it out on Saturday. The last time out for install, the PS pump & AC compressor came off, fan shroud set over water pump, fan & clutch on, radiator goes in like a diamond then rotates into position and everything else gets bolted back on.

IMG_6985

IMG_6986

I taped up the rest of the wires under the dash that I didn’t need to start, mostly lighting stuff. Connected the gauge cluster pig tail and installed the starter switch. I watched about 3-4 videos trying to figure out how to get the tumbler installed. Connected the battery and I saw one little spark as I connected it. Pull back and look around, then reconnect, no spark this time. I saw the door lights come on. Never seen that before, WOW. Look around the car and watch for smoke or burning wire. Nothing. Turn the key to the right and keep watching….the oil and alternator lights came on. Things are looking up. Twist it a little farther and it starts cranking over. WOO HOO. Roll it out of the garage, pour gas in the tank and look for leaks. Pour water in the radiator and look for leaks. I haven’t changed anything since it came home from the dyno, so it should run if the wiring is right. Prime the carb and hit the key….it coughs and sputters and tries to start. More gas in the carb and hit the key and it comes to life, about 10:30 on Saturday night. I was smiling like a kid at Christmas. Walking around the car with a flash light looking at stuff, grinning from ear to ear, holly crap there’s a big puddle under the car and its growing. Fuel coming from around the fuel pump. Kill it and grab a wrench. Yep, the line up to the carb has a loose fitting at the pump. Cranked it up again and let it run for 15-20 minutes. It’s a happy day for me. Poke fun if you like, I was excited. This fall will be 30 years I’ve owned this car, its never ran till now.

It started, so the Duraspark wiring must be right. Not sure if the Tach will work. The oil light went out after firing up, so that must be right. The alternator light is still on, looks like I missed that one.

New list of thing to look at:
Charging system
Temperature gauge pegs while running
Gas gauge does not register
Car pops and backfire when I idle it down
Vacuum module is ruptured
Time to start tuning. We will see how much I bug you guys with questions.


Went for a short test drive on Easter Sunday.

https://youtu.be/YtcTRW0d7zI

John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Stangman

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #53 on: June 05, 2018, 12:28:13 AM »
Looking good John should be really nice how long has it been since you drove it

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #54 on: June 05, 2018, 12:33:39 AM »
The front sway bar is now installed.

IMG_6833

Test fit the AC hoses and cut to length. Indexed the crimp fittings and marked for reference when I go back to get the PS tubing repaired.

Back on the PS hoses and tubing, I made some brackets to secure the tubing and tightened all the connections. If I had to do it again, I would get one end of the hoses crimped and let the others run long and make the final cut on the car and make the extra trip for crimping.  The hose I used for make-up didn’t act or lay the same as the steel braid. The crimped connectors made a difference in how the hoses would bend. Installed the belt, filled the pump with fluid and lifted the front of the car to reduce weight when I started turning the wheel. It took a quart of fluid to fill the system. It was making noise at first, but after 5-6 turns lock to lock, its easy and quiet.

IMG_6857

IMG_6858

IMG_6860 by JOHN DIXON, on Flickr

The A/C hoses are now installed, but not connected to the compressor. Export bar is on.

The top side of the shocks are done too. It wasn’t as easy as I thought it should be. Had to file on the upper shock mount to get the turned through it. The cross piece that the bolts go through may come out of the other shock, but it didn’t look like it was going to come out of these. Had to pull the shocks back off the car to test fit, then bolt the upper mount to the shock before bolting back onto the car.

IMG_6899
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #55 on: June 05, 2018, 12:37:06 AM »
Looking good John should be really nice how long has it been since you drove it

Thanks Stangman. Bought it with a locked up motor in 1988. Easter Sunday was the first time I've ever drove it. Even with it idling way too high. Oh what a feeling......wasn't that a car commercial way back when??  ;D ;D
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #56 on: June 05, 2018, 12:39:41 AM »
Ok, the head lights should be easy??? Breakout the voltage tester, let’s check for voltage at the head light sockets.


Head light switch on, no voltage, huh. Pull a relay, no voltage there either, what? OH yea, install the fuse.  ::) ::)
Power at the relay for the lights, no coil power. OK, power to the dimmer switch, yes. Away from the switch, no. Trying to unplug the wire from the switch and the switch falls apart in my hand. Time to throw that away. Dig in the box with the old wiring harness and find the old dimmer switch. It’s a Ford piece, Wow. And it still works, so in it goes. With voltage for high and low beams at the sockets, headlamps are installed. 

 IMG_6832
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #57 on: June 05, 2018, 12:44:20 AM »
It’s time to start trying to tune this thing. Idling it down wasn’t helping and it was kicking back on the starter while cranking when warm and back firing through the carb. Car is way rich from just smelling the exhaust. Using an infrared temp gun and shooting the exhaust ports, there is a 40-50 degree temp difference between some of the cylinders. When I changed the plugs, a couple of them were decent looing but most were black. New plugs didn’t help to even the temps across the cylinders. Decided to follow the Dyno guys advice and get some new plug wires. The MSD’s made it sound better when it started and got the temperature within 15 degrees of each other.

Broke out the timing light to see where this was sitting. Used some blue painters tape to make shift my timing marks so I could see them. Had to pull the timing way back to get it to 12 degrees BTDC. Pulled the carb back off to make sure the transfer slot looked right. All the idle screws were sitting at ¾ turn or less out. Turned them out to 1-1/2 turns and called it good for now.

Don’t have a working tach yet, so I bought one of the infrared tuning tachs from Harbor Freight. Testing on the wife’s car showed 600 on her tach to an average of 618 on the HF gizmo box. Played with the idle, the HF tool says 850 RPM and it sounds a lot better than it did in the first video.

https://youtu.be/DpcqGQ7NwVE

Installed the body of the steering column, now I need some seats. Started with the plug on the back of the alternator to see why it’s not charging. Turns out I pushed the wires into the connector wrong. I swapped the outside wires to get the battery charging. One more thing of the list.
 
This air cleaner is temporary. I bought it from a guy on a Facebook Bump Side page. I really had my doubts that the hood would close.

IMG_6987

IMG_6897
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #58 on: June 05, 2018, 12:51:42 AM »
Years ago, when I was still working on floor boards, I lowered the seat pans about 1” and scooted them back about ½”.

Now to mount the seats, I started with removing the stands from the seat tracks by drilling out the rivets. With a piece 3/16 X 2” angle, figured that would have a little more strength than a flat bar, I cut one side down to ½”, then laid out holes for drilling. The seat pans are on 14’ centers and the seats are on 15’s. The angle is just wide enough to make it all work. The bolts to hold the angle to the seat pans are drilled and tapped to 5/16 x 18 with red Loctite. For attaching the seat rails to the angle, I cut some small pieces of the 3/16 angle and had my buddy at work weld them in place to provide 3/8” of material for bolting down the seat. Those areas are drilled and tapped to 5/16 x 24 for pan head Allen bolts. This will allows the seat track to pass over the bolt head.

IMG_7229

IMG_7230

Bolted the tracks on tonight and got them in the car. Moving the seat pans back made it a little difficult to get the nuts started, but it wasn’t too bad. The driver seat is power and it goes up, down, back, & forward with no issue. With the seat all the way down and positioned were I want for reaching the pedals, I have about 3 1/2” of clearance between my head and a bare roof. I will lose a bit more with carpet, but I think I am good for now. If I’m not once the carpet and headliner go in, then back to the drawing board!!

IMG_7234


IMG_7236

IMG_7237


Now to make sure the steering column is where it’s going to stay. 
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Stangman

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #59 on: June 05, 2018, 01:10:29 AM »
Sounds sweet and looks great, your getting real close

cjshaker

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #60 on: June 05, 2018, 07:06:16 AM »
Through it all, I think I was most impressed with the fact that your wife actually wrenched on the car and installed parts. :)  That is NOT something I believe I've ever seen.

Congrats on all the progress, John. You're sure doing a nice job, one you can be proud of!
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

thatdarncat

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #61 on: June 05, 2018, 03:03:17 PM »
Looking real nice, you're making great progress. All those little details take time to get right.
Kevin Rolph

1967 Cougar Drag Car ( under constuction )
1966 7 litre Galaxie
1966 Country Squire 390
1966 Cyclone GT 390
1968 Torino GT 390
1972 Gran Torino wagon
1978 Lincoln Mk V

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #62 on: June 06, 2018, 10:21:37 PM »
Doug, Sheryl has wanted to help more than she has, but I have trouble with delegating tasks to her or anyone else that wants to help. The interior work and trim is coming and hopefully she will be able to install some of that. Now the issue turn into summertime in Houston and its getting hot.

Kevin, you ain't joking on the details. I've done some of this stuff several times getting it the way I think it should be. Which brings up comments from Sheryl that I would have been done already if I wasn't so picky.

Thanks for the compliments. I'm really looking forward to driving it all over........I have to get past the fear of somebody hitting it though. Since Easter I've had dreams / nightmares of rear ending someone, being rear ended, and running over something that ripped one muffler and tail pipe off.  :o :o

It will be heavily insured when it rolls out of the driveway.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #63 on: August 16, 2018, 07:17:17 PM »
Ok, been diligently working. Stereo and amp are installed. I mounted both of them the way I wanted and left it to Car Toys at Willowbrook to make them work. I had a nice conversation about my expectations and explicitly told them YOU CAN’T CUT HOLES IN MY CAR. They did a great job with the install. It’ll even have a back-up camera too once I get a bumper to mount it to.

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Sent the factory tach and gauges to Rocketman’s Classic Cougar. The gauges got calibrated and touched up. The tach got converted with modern guts to work with my Dura-spark set up. It works great. Bob was great to deal with, he responded to emails promptly, the stuff was well packed when it arrived and the price was fair.

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John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #64 on: August 16, 2018, 07:30:34 PM »
I went with Wesco for seat belts. If you haven’t dealt with them before, be aware that custom colors are non-returnable. Customer colors are also made to order which increases the delivery time. It’s all listed there on the website when you go to the tab for the colors. I ordered one belt for the back seat since they were the cheapest and I wasn’t sure the color would be what I wanted. I wasn’t smart enough to ask for samples!! Got the hardware set to install the plates for the high point mount. The plate was meant to be installed with pop rivets, but it didn’t sit flat with the area. So I drilled and tapped to 1/4-20 for hex bolts with a fender washer. One of the hex head bolts on each side was pushing out on the head liner. So those got swapped for a pan head Allen bolt with a little grinding to flush it up.
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The headliner and glass got installed, but the trim was still with the guy that was taking out the dents and polishing. It has since been completed, but not installed.
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John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #65 on: August 16, 2018, 07:31:41 PM »
In preparation of an inspection, I was getting the instrument cluster installed and was ready to test the wipers. Turned the switch on and saw the nubs in the cowl make about a 1/8 of a turn. Finally decided the switch was bad when I didn’t get power through it. With a new switch, had power to the motor, but it still no go roundy roundy!! As I was getting ready to pull the motor thinking this was going to be a real PITA, I looking through the area of the instrument cluster at the bracket I mounted to keep the ducts for the AC registers from hitting the wiper transmission thinking that there is contact there. Sure enough, the bracket was the problem,  wipers now work and the ducts have been tied out of the way. Sheryl wanted tilt steering, so I bought the Ididit column for a 68, so its collapsible, recommended for a power rack and the upper half of the rag joint. It bolted up to the Brogeson box without a problem. I did have to drill a hole in the lower dash mount for the wire to come through. After changing the crimp connector on the column harness, I used the Painless instruction and column instructions to get the column connector pinned correctly. Bought a Lecarre steering wheel and got installed too. So nice to hear the sound a horn makes. It’s a great feeling to have blinkers, stop lights, and a horn that works.
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I installed the jute underlayment  that come pre-cut and bought more from the upholstery guy to fill in any areas I could still see the floor pan and laid the carpet down. Only burned myself once with the soldiering iron while making holes. Installed the original front lap belts on a temporary basis to be able to pass inspection. Got the seats in and went for inspection, which it passed. Spent about an hour line at county annex for tags. It’ll be registered as a classic for now. I didn’t like the driving restrictions of an antique and make lousy liar if I get caught doing things I shouldn’t!!
The last time I registered the car was 1990. Texas still prorated tags then, and I was cheap. So, I bought tags for the month it was to expire to transfer the title.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #66 on: August 16, 2018, 07:36:03 PM »
The ride back and forth for the inspections told me that there are more creaks than rattles and that the back tires rub the inner lip of the fender well and that those Bilstein shocks make it ride like a 1 ton truck. I cleaned up and re-installed the old helper springs and it gave me enough clearance on the back end. The next drive was over 10 miles. As a plus, the helper springs didn’t make it ride any worse!! Looks like it’s time to try a cheap set of Monroes. On the down side, the front springs are settling to the point I will have clearance issues in the front now. They were in the car when I bought it, I haven’t cut them and it doesn’t appear to have been cut by anyone else. When I was blasting them a while back, I did find a Moog part number, I think. The saga continues.

Picked up the bumpers from the chrome shop and they look nice. For 8 bolts, I couldn’t believe how long it took me to get it installed where it looks right. Took a lot of time on Saturday to get the front installed mounted.
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Returned the first dash that had a rip at the defroster vent and the new one arrived on Friday. Had to take more stuff off the dash to get it installed. It’s in now along with the AC registers and controls panel. Dealing with the dash area, there has been a lot of install, remove cause I can’t install other piece, reinstall, rinse, and repeat!!
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Changed out the back shocks to the Monroe’s and that softened up the ride. New front springs made it today and the front Monroe’s will go on with them over the weekend.

We did take the care for another ride Monday evening after the shock change. Around the neighborhood went well, then we got out on the main road. Wound up first gear, and hit second to accelerate QUICKLY!! Started smelling antifreeze!! The nearest parking lot was a church. A quick look under the hood and one of the heater hoses blew apart at a connection. I had used the spring clamps, guess I need to upgrade to the worm style. Managed to get the hose back together, buy some water from a nearby convenience store and took it back home.

To be Bash ready, I need to
Install new coil springs, Monroe shocks, and get front end aligned
Air conditioner operational
Carb work
Interior panels
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

cjshaker

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #67 on: August 17, 2018, 08:37:54 AM »
Looking really good, John! I really appreciate your level of detail and striving for the best build possible. Most people just see a "nice car", without realizing all the work and planning that goes into a build like that.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #68 on: August 17, 2018, 03:51:12 PM »
Thanks Doug. I am so ready to be driving this thing. The closer it gets, the harder it is for me to just stick with the same level of detail. It’s been driving Sheryl Crazy for a while when I take too much time to make it look the way I think it should. It’s starting to drive me crazy too.

Gotta get those springs swapped too. Have an appointment for a front end alignment on Tuesday.  ;D
« Last Edit: August 17, 2018, 03:54:49 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

TimeWarpF100

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #69 on: August 18, 2018, 03:24:48 PM »
Very nicely done!

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #70 on: August 18, 2018, 04:37:05 PM »
 8) 8)



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #71 on: August 18, 2018, 04:52:22 PM »
Thanks guys.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

turbohunter

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #72 on: August 18, 2018, 06:16:06 PM »
Jealous John.
Really cool.
Marc
'61 F100 292Y
'66 Mustang Injected 428
'66 Q code Country Squire wagon


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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #73 on: August 19, 2018, 12:38:41 AM »
Jealous John.
Really cool.

Marc, that road goes both ways, you have some really cars too.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

BruceS

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #74 on: August 19, 2018, 09:36:17 AM »
Big congrats John, I'll bet it was a wonderful feeling to drive 'er out of the garage under her own power for the first time in many moons!  Looking forward to seeing it in person.  Bruce
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #75 on: August 19, 2018, 07:21:04 PM »
Thanks Bruce

Working at swapping the coil springs and found a crack in the driver side shock tower. This picture is from the fender well side. The underlined area is what I knew about and tried to weld years ago from the engine compartment side before it went to the body shop. A testament to my welding skills, right??

Untitled

The next picture is what is looks like in the engine bay today.

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I would rather have someone with better welding skills weld it up this time versus changing out a shock tower. I wonder how much worse it can get if I drive it 600 to 800 miles before it gets welded?
 
Edit for pictures
« Last Edit: August 20, 2018, 01:01:39 PM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Heo

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #76 on: August 20, 2018, 01:46:07 AM »
I don't think those cracks will get much worse in 6-800 miles.
If you don't plan to chase a black Charger in the hills of S.F :D
Those are fatigue cracks and the metall around them is fatigued
so i would recommend to at least cut out the area and weld in a
patch of new metall. Yes i know not fun starting to weld in patches
in a newly restored car :( so.......
What i did on many shocktower Fords to eliminate the flexing there
is. I cut out a 1/8 plate that fit inside the shocktower under the A-arm
mountingpoint, 45 degrees out to the outer corner of the framerail.
And copied the reinforcement in enginebay from the cobrajet mustangs
that goes around the "corner" of the shocktower.
If you understand what I'm trying to explain



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

cjshaker

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #77 on: August 20, 2018, 07:12:51 AM »
I cut out a 1/8 plate that fit inside the shocktower under the A-arm
mountingpoint, 45 degrees out to the outer corner of the framerail.
And copied the reinforcement in enginebay from the cobrajet mustangs
that goes around the "corner" of the shocktower.
If you understand what I'm trying to explain

Heo, sounds like your describing the big block reinforcements on 69-70 Mustangs, and the outer shock tower reinforcement that Ford recommended in their Trans Am book. Both good ideas.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

Heo

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #78 on: August 20, 2018, 08:06:45 AM »
Yes, mayby all 69-70 BB mustangs had it. And a friend also had them on a -69 Boss 302
It is possible i saw the outer reinforcement in the Trans Am book i have it here somewhere
a verry god book as i remember it



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #79 on: August 20, 2018, 12:08:39 PM »
Heo, I read the post at 5:40 this morning but wasn’t awake enough to comprehend. It does make sense now. 

Agreed, it’s no fun to weld on the car at this point, but it will be the best thing moving forward. I want to be able to drive without worry of parts falling off.  :o

Sounds like what started in 69 was to meant to fix the 67-68 design flaws.

 I have a shop in mind for the welding that works on Mustangs. Will have to see what their approach is on how much stuff needs to be removed for the repair.

Thanks for the input guys.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

Heo

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #80 on: August 20, 2018, 03:33:09 PM »
Actualy i remember now i saw a -68 Mustang that was said to be
a Cobra jet that had those round the corner reinforcements  like
69-70 BB mustangs.  Wounder what happened to that car...when i saw
it mayby 15-20 years ago it had sat without engine since late 70s.
The owner had a 500 mercedes coupe i was looking at for the wife
and the mustang was in a corner covered with dust i wanted to buy
that instead but not for sale........
Any 68 CJ owner that can confirm the xtra round the corner reinforcemet
on shock towers?



The defenition of a Gentleman, is a man that can play the accordion.But dont do it

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #81 on: September 01, 2018, 12:30:35 AM »
The passenger side coil spring and shock went in Sunday evening without much issue once I got it clocked right on coil spring compressor. And man that’s an eerie feeling with that much stored energy.
 
The driver side went in on Monday evening, but it didn’t go willingly!!
 
Tuesday morning was an appointment with B and B Tire for a front end alignment. The drive over was sketchy, but I got there without issue. There was a night and day difference with the test drive afterwards. Here’s the car on the rack.

Untitled
 
Left the shop and less than a mile later, I was in a parking lot out of gas!!! Guess the gas gauge was more accurate than I thought. Glad I’m a AAA gold member, 8 tows a year up to 100 miles for me and the better half. It's money well spent!!
 
While I'm trying to figure out that I'm out of gas, yea, should be obvious, right? There was an extreme amount of vacuum on the tank, to the point it looks to have collapsed the tank some. It’s no longer flat across the bottom. Once home, I drained the gas tank, about 2 gallons, and tweaked the sending unit. Got enough gas in it to make it back to the station for more fuel. It’s a 20 gallon and tank and spitting back like its full at about 15 gallons.
 
Tuesday evening was a new set of spark plugs in preparation of carb work on Wednesday. Currently, it cranks cold and goes to an idle without a choke. Then the fumes will burn your eyes once its warmed up.
 
Wednesday, A buddy from work came over to help with the carb. We drove it around to get it warm, then made the turn onto the feeder of the toll road and hit it from a roll in first gear, all of second, and into third. Evan’s comment was "it should have been better". Told him I had to look at the linkage, I don't think it's opening all the way.
 
Back at the house, I worked on the linkage, it was getting about 1/2 half way open. Details, details. Evan played with the carb. He dropped the jets sizes on the primary & secondary plates and played with the idle screws. Now it’s more cold natured when it first cranks but doesn’t burn your eyes when it gets warm. Took the same route back to the feeder. Did the same run through the gears and was amazed how fast I exceeded the speed limit!! Evan was more impressed.
 
Took Sheryl out later that evening for drive to show the progress. She was excited, scared, laughing, and telling me to slow the hell down. Thankfully, she was too busy hanging on to hit me. We did manage to drive it about 25 miles. The speedometer is within 2 MPH of the speed in my Waze app.
 
Thursday evening was spent on the A/C controls.  Programming the controls was not difficult, but it took me 45 minutes of trouble shooting to figure out I never hooked up the keyed hot!! Can’t tell ya why I didn’t finish it, but I bet I had a good reason at the time. Also found a tab on the starter switch that’s hot when the key is off and in accessory while I’m trying to re-install it in the form a sparking sound. Got the battery disconnected and the switch back out, figured out the tab in the picture was hot, and slipped a insulated flat blade connector over it. Now its all back together.

Untitled
 
Friday night, we drove it to dinner with a friend that retired last year. It was a little un-nerving to leave it in the parking lot by itself. I did take the coil wire with me though. Bruce that did the body and paint work told me to never worry about someone stealing it, his words were “its green and it’s a coupe, no one wants it”. We drove it around some more. Stopped for gas and later for custard.

Untitled
 
Saturday was charging the air conditioner and watching the temperature. Its blowing cold air with my 4 foot shop fan blowing at the radiator. I don’t have a gauge that shows the actual degrees, so I use a infrared gun on the intake side of the thermostat. Its running in the 190 to 195 range with a 195 degree thermostat and one hole drilled in it. Don’t remember what size the hole is now. Moved the fan out of the way and stuck a thermometer in the radiator, it went to 205 / 210 idling in the driveway. Ambient temp was 95, the car was in the shade, no air movement except for the fan blade. Going down the road, the temp gauge rides where it has without the air conditioner.

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The first test drive with the windows up and this song comes on the radio.

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Sunday was spent washing and cleaning. We drove it to dinner, had to stop for gas again, it’s beginning to become a reoccurring theme. And I left the coil wire on it this time, but we were sitting outside and I could watch it. Later, I took it to the local car gathering at the nearby Freddie’s Frozen custard. It was a small turnout with about 8 cars, mostly Mustangs.

Untitled
 
I’ve drove it about 175 miles so far. The new list of things that need attention:
Check charge on AC, the air isn’t as cold as it should be when going down the road. It also seems like it satisfies the thermostat too soon and cuts out.
There are rattles in the door, other area seem OK
The Flow masters have to go. No telling what the noise from them is hiding.
Install trunk latch so I don’t have to use a screw driver
Need a better air cleaner
Valve covers are leaking oil.
Tires rub on big bumps
Gas Tank
 
Was out of town for work for part of the week and didn’t get a chance to do anything with the car till today. Managed to get the steering wheel aligned so its straight when the car is going straight. Took a rubber mallet to the front fenders to roll the lips in for tire clearance. The left rear fender lip was massaged too. Took a test drive the fender roll and empty the tank more so there’s less gas to drain. A couple of bumps later and it looks like I have clearance for now. Decided to extend the drive to the hardware store for small machine bolts to mount the back-up camera. Fired the car up to leave and the clutch goes to the floor!! I now have a puddle of fluid under the car. Time for another wrecker ride to the house.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2018, 01:40:58 AM by Bolted to Floor »
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

machoneman

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #82 on: September 01, 2018, 08:27:40 AM »
Yes, Heo you did likely see that weldment in Ford's 69-70 Boss 302 Chassis Manual. Did the same on my '70 and added more stiffeners per the book. Did skip the full roll cage though!


Yes, mayby all 69-70 BB mustangs had it. And a friend also had them on a -69 Boss 302
It is possible i saw the outer reinforcement in the Trans Am book i have it here somewhere
a verry god book as i remember it
Bob Maag

BruceS

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #83 on: September 01, 2018, 09:58:20 AM »
Hey John, in spite of all the teething problems (normal IMO) I'll bet it's nice to see an empty space in the garage where the Mustang used to sit. Being able to move it under its own power is a big step!  Just gotta keep gas in that thing  :o
66 Fairlane 500, 347-4V SB stroker, C4
63 Galaxie 500 fastback, 482 SO 4V, Cruise-O-Matic

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #84 on: September 05, 2018, 09:58:49 AM »
Beauty, yeah ya always have those little annoying things to do after you drive it for alittle. But the main thing is all your hard work is now paying off. That’s a nice green coupe ya got there, Bruce must be a Chevy guy :) 8)

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #85 on: September 06, 2018, 12:41:33 AM »
Beauty, yeah ya always have those little annoying things to do after you drive it for alittle. But the main thing is all your hard work is now paying off. That’s a nice green coupe ya got there, Bruce must be a Chevy guy :) 8)

HAHA, Bruce does own a Chevy truck, but his job and passion are restoring Mustangs. He restored the Pink big block mustang that appeared on Sticker Shock earlier this year.

Thanks guys, Its getting there. After the fiasco with the TO bearing, I have used up my 4 tows and started working on Sheryl's.  ???
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #86 on: October 05, 2018, 09:32:34 AM »
Short version of the clutch pedal is possible vibration issues that started around 50 MPH caused the hydraulic throw out bearing adjusting collar to back off. Front tires were out of balance, the driveshaft was good, and the transmission was rubbing on the cross member. After laying under the car and moving the weights around on the Centerforce, I decided to replace it with a McCleod. I don’t know that it added to the problem, but it was worth the hassle of not pulling it again. I am now good up to 80 MPH, so good enough for now. See the links for more details. I am still working at drive line angles. More on that later.

http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=8980

http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=6408.0


Sorry for the lack of pictures, I was in a time crunch and didn’t take the time to capture the moment!!

I got the factory window trim moldings straightened and polished. I think I scared the
guy I scheduled to get the glass sealed and trim installed when I told him how much I spent. He went to looking for reasons to not do it. Told me that the clips that all the suppliers sell are not right. Should have been green, not black. After he left, I decided to do it myself.

After researching and watching videos, I gave it a whirl. How bad can it be, right? With help from Sheryl and the brother in law, we got both front and back out and back in with sealer without screwing them up. I used sealer that not supposed to dry hard. That sealer is like the white pipe dope that Plummer’s and Sprinkler fitter’s use......just open it and it can get everywhere!! Since it was up on jack stands with the transmission laying under it, I passed on one of the video tip of using a water hose to check for leaks prior to installing the trim. I didn’t want the garage floor covered with that much water. In hindsight, I should have.
One of the tips for the molding clips was to use a pair of pliers to tweak them just a bit to remove some of the tension prior to installing. “Makes the trim easier to go on” they said!! Since my clips were already on, I used a forked trim tool to open them up just a bit. Turned out to be too much on the front glass......there wasn’t enough tension left in the clips to keep the trim in place. Had to change most of the front clips out after spreading the sealer all around the glass. Talk about a mess!!
The trim went on again without too much fuss. It looks pretty good too.

The brother in-law helped me get the clutch and transmission back in the car along with the new Borla mufflers on the Saturday before the trip. Did some grinding on the transmission cross member cause it was rubbing the transmission case.





Was still in the process of bleeding the clutch when he had to leave that night. It was really being a pain and I didn’t get it done till Sunday.

Next up was the gas tank. It was a little collapsed from the gas cap not venting. Drained the gas, pinched off the gas line with vise grips, left the cap closed, regulated the air pressure down to 15 PSI and inflated the tank through the drain plug. It was pretty cool to see it expand back. I should have took a video.

A couple of pages and years back, I took a mallet and chunk of wood to level out the filler next in the tank. Turns out, this is a bad idea. I was more worried about getting the tank matched to the filler neck. The result is that level area is now the lowest point on the top side of the tank. Air gets trapped and the tank won’t get a full as it should!! I used some 2 x 4’s and a piece of all thread rod to raise it back up.

Drove it to work on Monday, September 10th and it wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be for dealing with the other drivers in Houston rush hour traffic. Vibration now starting at 60. Yay progress. It also rained that day and I found water in the floors. ☹️ So much for getting the glass sealed.



The weather was too bad to drive on Tuesday so it stayed in the garage. After work, I took a look at the throw out bearing and it looked like it hadn’t moved. I pulled the cross member for more grinding and went for another drive. Picked up a little more speed, and I got a chance to drive it in the rain.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #87 on: March 23, 2019, 01:02:26 AM »
Update from August 31 post on the TO DO list

Check charge on AC, the air isn’t as cold as it should be when going down the road. It also seems like it satisfies the thermostat too soon and cuts out. Charge is good. work in progress
There are rattles in the door, other area seem OK. Took care of prior to Bash with some of the wire loom cover over the actuator arms
The Flow masters have to go. No telling what the noise from them is hiding.  Borla's installed before the Bash, I can't say that they will stay for Michigan
Install trunk latch so I don’t have to use a screw driver. Installed during the Bash
Need a better air cleaner Picked one up from Steve's Mustang in Waller before the Bash
Valve covers are leaking oil. Both chrome valve covers installed prior to Lucky's Rod Run and no more oil leaks.
Tires rub on big bumps Still an issue at the end of February
Gas Tank Popped out before the Bash


Replaced all of the spring clamps on the heater hoses with worm drive clamps after the Bash. No more hoses popping apart.

The Grab A Tracks got installed and I was surprised it picked up about 5/8 of ride height. Took a picture for a  side by side comparison, there is a slight gap toward the front eye on the old spring. You couldn't see that isolator when I put the spring packs back together after blasting and painting.

 

 
 

 
If I ever go this far with a car again, I will start with new springs and leave the old stuff for the scrap pile.

Westside Upholstery installed all the seat covers and cleaned up the rear seat frame. The fronts look really great and are very comfortable. What I wasn't counting on is the new seat foam adding about an inch to the height of the seat. With the driver seat being powered, the inch is not much of an issue. The passenger seat is  more of an issue since its manual and sits up higher than the driver. The back seat looks really good. Not sure how comfortable it will be, not much room for me back there.

 



John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #88 on: March 23, 2019, 01:03:32 AM »
I got tired of hearing the alternator belt squeal at start up. I couldn’t keep it tight enough for very long and took MS advice to ordered the HiPo pulley for the 3G. It went on before Lucky’s Rod Run, but it wasn’t necessarily a “bolt on” upgrade. The pulley hit the housing before it bottomed out on the shaft. Quick measuring said I needed about .030 to make up the difference. So, I cut washers out of an old license plate and flashing from my gutters. The downside was I had less than a full nut to to secure it.  Belt squeal at start up is now gone. Recently, I took the alternator & pulley to the Houston Engine and Balance to have it machined to fit. Jeff took enough off the back side to fit without washers and enough off the front for a full nut. The pulleys line up very well too.















[url=https://flic.kr/p/2dPjmBt]



While it was on jack stands, I pulled the transmission cross member and found more witness marks where it was rubbing the transmission. A little more grinding and a shot of black paint, time for a test drive!! After a couple of stints around 90 on the freeway, it looks like all my vibrations are gone. But there is still a noise, it changes too. It has similarities to the sound of the bad axle shaft we had in our DD van years ago, but it’s not a constant roar. I guess you could say it changes volume at a steady speed.

John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #89 on: March 23, 2019, 01:04:24 AM »
I borrowed a speedometer to learn how to reset the mileage. After watching a you tube video, it wasn’t that difficult. I got mine out of the car and set it to the mileage it should be from getting it running. Easy peasy.....then I blew out some dust that I saw in the mechanism. I didn’t use an  air hose or can of air, more like use your mouth to blow out a candle!!! Saw some stuff fly out, did it again, more stuff.......turns out the stuff was the numbers from my trip meter!!!!
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed

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Re: A 67 Mustang - The Assembly Process Begins, slowly!!
« Reply #90 on: March 23, 2019, 01:05:31 AM »
Tire rub in the back has been an issue on the left side. The new leaf springs helped along with the little bit that I rolled the fender, but didn’t solve my problems.


The trusty, semi rusty tape measure showed the rear end needed to shift 1/4” to the right to be centered. I wanted to use 1/2 lowering blocks that could be drilled to get the 1/4”. The downside was losing the 1/2” ride height from the blocks. After much deliberation, I unbolted the housing and rolled it to get at the alignment holes. Then proceeded to elongate them with a die grinder to get the 1/4” I needed and it helped a bunch. After driving about 75 miles, the rear end was sliding over on the elongated holes. So, I pulled the rear end out of the car and welded up the alignment holes in the perches. I’m not that great of a welder, but figured I could do this. Didn’t have any copper, but took a chance with some aluminum and wedged it against the bottom side of the hole. Was able to weld them out and keep the area in the spring perch relatively flat. The new holes to get it centered are drilled. The housing is bolted back in the car now. The bottom side of the car is not clean like it used to be!! I guess that happens when you get to drive it.











While I was trying to decide the best way for me to solve the problem, a buddy at work asked if the mounting pad of the rim could be machined down!! A call to American Racing, and the Tech guy says “yes, it can be machined“.  They recommended Baker Blackie Machine Works here in town for the machining and the shop would make the best determination on how much could safely be machined off. The pads are about 11/16” thick, then you subtract the recess for the acorn lug nuts. Which leaves around 1/2”. I settled at taking off .125”. He said it could go more, like up to .200, but it looked like it would be really thin to me. Much more than the 1/8” would have caused issues with the back side of the rim hitting the front calipers. Had all four rims machines. It was a reasonable price and he was spot on for when they would be ready.  For what you see of the lug bolt hole, it’s about 3/8” thick to the recess for the acorn nut.



Between centering the rear end and machining the wheels, I hope to be rid of the rubbing. If this doesn't work, I will be forced to roll the fender lips a good bit or convince my wife I need more rims.

Next project is the third member. It was well used and probably abused when I got it, but figured it would get me moving. Loaded it up in the bench vise for inspection. The manual said check back lash in several places, should be .008-.012. Mine ranged from .009-.016!!  I can see a ridge toward the valley on the pinion gear too. I will be buying bearings, gears, and plates for the traction lok unit to get it back together. Haven’t pulled it all the way apart to inspect the spider gears yet.
John D -- 67 Mustang 390 5 speed