Author Topic: 427 hi riser intake fix  (Read 3709 times)

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hbstang

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427 hi riser intake fix
« on: December 27, 2014, 08:06:29 PM »
i have a previous post about the C4AE-F intake but thought it would be better to start a new one.the intake i have has been milled to remove the 5 degree angle of the carb pads.my question is,should i mill some spacers to replicate the original 5 degrees on the manifold configuration or should i just use it with some 1 inch spacers.i plan to use this in a t-bolt clone.so i dont think the carbs would be level without the 5 degree angle.here is a couple of pictures.
my intake
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« Last Edit: April 16, 2020, 09:21:58 PM by hbstang »

machoneman

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Re: 427 hi riser intake fix
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2014, 09:08:16 PM »
Until you put the engine in a vehicle and check for the correct driveline angle, I'd not worry about it. Then one can check if a  near zero to 5 degree angle would be best to level the carb tops. 
Bob Maag

jayb

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Re: 427 hi riser intake fix
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2014, 09:19:24 PM »
A lot of engines run without the carbs level.  Anybody with an Edelbrock Victor or a tunnel ram is running with an unlevel carb.  I'd just put the spacers you want on it and run it as is - Jay
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

cjshaker

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Re: 427 hi riser intake fix
« Reply #3 on: December 29, 2014, 12:19:31 AM »
On the other hand, if my carbs looked like they were tilted backwards while in the engine bay, it would look goofy to me and I'd have to correct it. If the engine ends up sitting like they do from the factory, that would be fairly substantial. Like Bob said, I'd wait and see.
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

wowens

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Carb stud question
« Reply #4 on: December 29, 2014, 07:34:19 AM »
When altering the carb base angle do you also have to modify the stud angle somehow to allow the attaching hardware to fit flush on the carb flange or do you just slot the carb base holes and let it fly?  Can you modify the stud angle or bend the studs?

jayb

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Re: 427 hi riser intake fix
« Reply #5 on: December 29, 2014, 08:24:36 AM »
I did add the angle on a Victor intake a while back, in order to make it work with the shaker hood scoop on my Mach 1.  To make the carb fit I just drilled the holes in the carb base plate out a little bit, so that the studs could come through the holes at an angle.  Seemed to work fine...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

XR7

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Re: 427 hi riser intake fix
« Reply #6 on: December 29, 2014, 08:39:18 PM »
I run my Victor/Dominator carb level (with the engine), not the ground. All race manifolds have level carb pads, for even distribution I would think. Sure it is tipped back a little, but it tips back farther, when I launch it! I wouldn't think there is much difference, I would just put 1/2" spacers on it and RUN IT myself.

That HR intake is preferred over the earlier version "D" I believe?

I think I have a 7* wedge spacer I never used, you would have to find a mate for it though... if you really wanted to do that. (again, I wouldn't).
68 Cougar XR7 GT street legal, 9.47@144.53, 3603# at the line, 487 HR center oiler, single carb, Jerico 4 speed, 10.5 tires, stock(er) suspension, all steel full interior