Help from machinests ...

[FOMOGO]

 I picked up an older Bridgeport mill over the summer and am now compiling a list of accessories and tooling. I have some of the very basic stuff, 6" swivel vise, R-8 collets, end mills, boring head, cheap clamping set, etc.. Looking for recommendations on a DRO and horiz/vert rotary table & tail stock and anything else that you would consider indispensable/desirable. Thanks, Mike      Posted this over on the other forum also.

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k134/gaffney1951/CIMG0005-1.jpg

[jayb]

For the DRO I bought mine from Shooting Star Technology, www.star-techno.com.  Cheaper than most of the others and works well.  I would recommend three axis, not just two.

I could not live without a power feed on the long axis.  For my old mill I bought one cheap from Harbor Freight, and after screwing around with it a while I got it to work pretty well.  Later, I bought a better one from Enco for the cross axis, and it doesn't even work as well as the Harbor Freight unit, even though it's twice the price.

Other than that, I buy the tooling as I need it.  I figured up front that I would need a rotary table, but I hardly ever use mine.  Sometimes you've got to have it, but most of the time it sits on the shelf.

I would also recommend that you bite the bullet and buy carbide end mills when you get serious.  Enco (use-enco.com) probably has the best pricing, at least from what I've found.  Carbide end mills will stay sharp even when they are overheated somewhat, which is likely going to happen if you do any milling without coolant.  And coolant is a pain to set up on a stand alone mill like a Bridgeport.

JMO-Jay

[ScotiaFE]

"anything else that you would consider indispensable/desirable"
A really nice saw.
Too feed your new toy.
A Jacobs R8 Drill chuck in the 1/2" size with a key.

Nice tool.

[Joe M]

Being "bucks down" I picked up a set of travel dials for my mill from a shop that was closing.  Little money and works well.  Not as nice as a DRO though!

[FOMOGO]

Thanks for the replies. Was looking at this setup for cylinder head work. What do you think? Mike
 Picture didn't show up. Here is the site. www.precisionmeasure.com/

Precision Measurement Supply - Fixtures, Tooling And Measuring Devices For Professional Engine Builders

Cylinder Head Fixture

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Cylinder Head Fixture

Provides Operator With Quick Rigid Setups On What
Used To Be Impossible Or Cumbersome Items
Cylinder Head Fixture Great For Holding Intake Manifolds

Cylinder Head Fixture 8 Inch Flycutter Allows One Pass Cuts On Cylinder Heads

Cylinder Head Fixture Good For Screw In Studs, Moving Guides, Rough Milling Ports, Removing Broken Bolts, Etc.

Cylinder Head Fixture Single Point, Replaceable Carbide Tool

Cylinder Head Fixture Complete With Studs, Flange Nuts And Reducers To Aid Setups

Cylinder Head Fixture 1" End Mill Holder Available With 1" Stub Arbor or R-8 Adapter (We Suggest That An End Mill Holder As Opposed To A Collet Be Used To Hold Cutter)

CYLINDER HEAD FIXTURE HINTS

 

Cutter Speeds: Cast iron, about 80-135 RPM with the carbide cutter. Note:  If using high speed steel; run about 80 surface feet per minute. If using aluminum, run around 200 RPM.

 

Feed: About 15/8� per minute table feed. Experiment with different speeds and feeds to get desired finish.  (The faster the table feed, the rougher the finish will be.)

 

Depth of Cut: No more than .010 is recommended in cast iron.  Finish cut should always be .002 - .003.

 

Direction of Cut: Always cut from the right to the left (if you are facing the machine).

 

Rear Support: Use only one bolt in the rear fixture to attach the head to the fixture.  If you install two bolts in the fixture, they will bind and pivot, making lengthwise leveling impossible.

 

Cutter Drag: If the cutter is dragging on the back side of the cut, tilt the head very slightly (less than 1 degree) to eliminate the problem.

 

Leveling the Head: Use either a very good level, or better yet, a dial indicator to level the head.  We have found it much easier to level the head lengthwise first and then use the rear support hand wheel to raise the head crosswise until level.  Use an end mill holder (not a collet) to hold the flycutter.  Lock the spindle all the way up (feed the table up for desired depth).  Always use a sharp tool � dull tools can cause many problems including chattering and a poor finish.  

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Cylinder Head Fixture

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Cylinder Head Fixture

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[ScotiaFE]

I would say it would be a good first project for you.
The material would be no more than 20 bucks v 500 bucks to buy.
You can hack out a set of end plates and a steady and it will give you
practice on your mill before you go at a set of heads.
Here's a couple of other cats to drool over.
Nothing wrong with looking at a picture and going out in the shop and making it. 

 http://www.goodson.com/
http://www.kbctools.com/can/main.cfm