'76 F100 Build

[mlcraven]

I'm not so hard over against POR15, it does have its place in some situations and can be cost-effective.  I used it with good results on those portions of the Cyclone floor that were scaly but salvageable, after proper surface prep it worked a treat and then I covered it with sound deadener (see pic).

That said, I'm with TimeWarpF100's advice on finishing a sandblasted frame, don't go the POR15 route.  The lesson I've taken away is that POR is best used in places where you don't plan to have anyone see it.  The application instructions MUST be adhered to the letter or it will just peel off and/or yield a peculiar surface finish when dry that looks like crap and is impossible to cover up with anything else.  And it's a bugger to clean up.

There are no shortcuts or, at least in my limited experience, none that won't be regretted later. 

http://s458.photobucket.com/user/mlcraven/media/1967%20Cyclone%20Resto/Int7-2013SoundDeadener2_zps6f5b4443.jpg.html

[Richard F]

I agree, with a sandblasted frame I wouldn't use POR15.  I'd epoxy prime it if it were mine and paint it single stage.  Powder coating would be great too if you can afford it.

[TimeWarpF100]

I'm not so hard over against POR15, it does have its place in some situations and can be cost-effective.  I used it with good results on those portions of the Cyclone floor that were scaly but salvageable, after proper surface prep it worked a treat and then I covered it with sound deadener (see pic).

That said, I'm with TimeWarpF100's advice on finishing a sandblasted frame, don't go the POR15 route.  The lesson I've taken away is that POR is best used in places where you don't plan to have anyone see it.  The application instructions MUST be adhered to the letter or it will just peel off and/or yield a peculiar surface finish when dry that looks like crap and is impossible to cover up with anything else.  And it's a bugger to clean up.

There are no shortcuts or, at least in my limited experience, none that won't be regretted later. 

http://s458.photobucket.com/user/mlcraven/media/1967%20Cyclone%20Resto/Int7-2013SoundDeadener2_zps6f5b4443.jpg.html

poor15 does have its place,. Just not in my shop . . . LOL

For someone who has minimal $$ to cover up rust more power to them. Its just that for me I can blast it and do a much better job in the fraction of time and elbow grease.
I simply do not care for the look of it.

Again, here in AZ we have little rust to deal with.

Love that Cyclone!  Some day I would like another 66 or 67.  I do prefer the 66 as I like the grille better and then no emissions to worry about like the '67 here still has.

[R-WEST]

   Too late..  My brother already put the first coat of POR 15 on there.
Oh, well, I guess we'll just see how things turn out.. 

[fastback 427]

I've got mixed feelings on both. In my opinion por-15 is way more durable than powder coat but does not look as nice. I worked in my factories paint department for many years and we used a lot of powder. If its not applied right or at the right temp for the right time it flakes and leaves bare metal. On our system it went through a wash, then a light acid wash, then an electrostatic paint dip, pre heat oven, then powder coat followed by a 45 minute 475 degree oven cycle. I doubt many powder coaters are that meticulous. I'd like to see some pics of your por-15 on prepped metal. If you don't like it you can always top coat it with something else. That being said we are starting on my wife's 67 mustang coupe this winter and I'll be replacing some floor panels and doing a mini tub. It's going to be a pro touring/ restomod kinda thing and not a show car. She doesn't want a trailer Queen but a driver. We will be using por-15 on the whole underside of the car to stop rust.

[R-WEST]

The nearest powder coating place is about 40 miles away, and, as noted earlier, this is what I found when I got home last evening:

brother Brad spraying away.

Here's the end result:


Maybe I'm less picky, but it looks pretty good to me!! 

[fastback 427]

Looks real good! The finish looks smooth. I think people put por-15 over rust and everything else which leaves a crappy finish. Enjoying watching your project.

[R-WEST]

The engine's almost ready to go to the dyno:


I'm gathering up the pieces: tranny rebuild kit from TCI, wide ratio gear set from Broader; picked up the 3.70 posi and axles with new bearings/seals/etc so we can get the rearend back together, then start putting pieces back on the frame..   

[TimeWarpF100]

The engine's almost ready to go to the dyno:


I'm gathering up the pieces: tranny rebuild kit from TCI, wide ratio gear set from Broader; picked up the 3.70 posi and axles with new bearings/seals/etc so we can get the rearend back together, then start putting pieces back on the frame..   

POR sprayed onto a sandblasted surface I do not have a problem with. Looks great!
(its the POR over rusty surface I have the problem with)

Engine looks great too!

[R-WEST]

It's on the dyno, waiting for headers and such - hopefully it'll be fired Monday.. 


BUT, it looks like it will be sitting under wraps for a while.. 

Driver's side cab mount:


Passenger side:


Fortunately, Joel said "heck, I've fixed lots of 'em that were worse than that!!"

[R-WEST]

Each day, I see more and more of the garage floor, and less of the floorboards.. 



New cab mounts on the way from Dennis Carpenter, I already have the floorboards - before we started cleaning away the old undercoating, I thought I didn't need all of them, but I'm glad we kept 'em..

[My427stang]

Did you get the dyno run in?

[Richard F]

I've been there and done that on my car...I kept finding more and more rust to fix.  Keep at it and you'll get it done.

[R-WEST]

Did you get the dyno run in?

Haven't heard from the shop yet.  I'm so swamped at work that, every time I think to call and see what's happening, the phone rings or an urgent e-mail pops up and I head off in another direction.  I sent myself an e-mail to make sure I call tomorrow to see what's up.

I've been there and done that on my car...I kept finding more and more rust to fix.  Keep at it and you'll get it done.

Yep, I've been down this road a few times.. 

[R-WEST]

Did you get the dyno run in?

I talked to Dan this morning, he said it broke in cleanly and after he was done playing with the timing and jets, he was looking at around 440 HP ( ) on his Stuska dyno.  Seems kinda' high, considering the build isn't that radical; I hope he didn't confuse it with one of the other engines he was doing (he had some BBF's and a BBC there too).  They're mailing (their scanner is on the fritz) the dyno chart - I'll post it as soon as it shows up.