My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[Heo]

Take the highest heaterhose lose and let the air escape through there
about the rotor arm...just  see that it points att nr one when engine is
att zero then set the timing
imposible to tell how it exactly going to point

You can set the timing roughly by instal a plug in no 1
sparkplugwire with the engine on 13 degrees and the ignition on
rotate the distributor against direction of rotation till you get a spark
(you can have to fiddle back and fort a litle)there is your timing
so it will start so you can set it with the stroboscope

[cobracammer]

Thanks Heo

I was working the odd timing results I had been getting and this is where I am at

Where TDC truely is, was showing 20 degrees ATDC on the actual balancer ( before I added the timing tape). This means the first time I ran the engine and was seeing 30 degrees BTDC at idle, I was really at 10 degrees BTDC.  Wasnt running great the first time but was running

After I added the first timing tape, car ran but idle timing showed 60 degrees BTDC. When I thought I found TDC and added the tape, i thought TDC was where the balancer showed 9 degrees ATDC. i will keep trying to figure out how it was running well at what looked like 60 but was really some less degree since I was way off with true TDC

Either way, sure of true TDC now and will mark it with the timing tape as soon as I get it today

[My427stang]

I forgot which distributor you are running, if equipped, you are checking timing with the vacuum advance unplugged?

Also, were you checking at a low enough rpm that the mechanical advance isn't coming in?

The ECM may initially fast idle the car, so if you can keep it running long enough to get to temp, may want to wait to check the timing until it warms up and can drop the idle

[cobracammer]

Hey Ross

Running a MSD probillet distriboutor. no vacuum advance but mechanical advance. When the ECU gotthecar running last week, it was at like 2000 RPM. Stayed there a while, but then started coming down. You are prob right, i think advance kicks in at 1100 rpm or so. Bythe time engine came down, it was overheating and i couldnt check with timing light.  Had to shut it off

Hopefully this time, it will stay cool and i can time it after it kicks down. And also get video of the live data screens

[cobracammer]

OK, just tried starting it again.  This time I brought in my cheat sheet from FAST in what to look for while cranking and just before.

CTS and ATS were fine (at about ambient temperature)

RPM's at cranking were fine (above 200)


then we get to VBatt....  this is the switched ignition 12V source.  It says that it should stay above 10 Volts while cranking.

right before cranking, I was showing 11.6 volts.  As soon as I started cranking, It went down to 9 Volts, then 8 volts....  I stapped cranking (not sure how low it would have gone)....

So there is definitely a problem.  I am going to go ahead and install the toggle switches to get a solid 12 V source off of the battery directly.  I may run it temporarily just outside the car until I get everything working and running, and then decided where in the interior I want to mount them.

[Heo]

what voltage is the battery when not cranking and while cranking?

[My427stang]

Run them temporarily and see, but as Heo is eluding to, it could just be a bit too much for the battery until the engine gets broken in. (or hopefully something isn't binding causing the crap in the oil and the drag)

Do you have a real battery charger, one that has some guts?

[cobracammer]

I had the battery on the battery Tender today (made for these Gel red top batteries)...

With the key in the acc position, the handheld said the voltage read 11.6 Volts

As soon as I started cranking it started to drop.  Dropped to 10 Volts for 1 second, then to 9.2? Volts for a second, and finally When I saw 8 volts, I stopped.  It fell that fast in literally 3 seconds (as I am not going to burn up my 2nd starter again!.


I just got back out of the garage.  I finished wiring the toggle switches directly to the battery.  I didn't even want to use the same post for the computer and the MSD box, so one is mounted to a stud on the right side of the terminal (+) and there is a second stud (same + terminal) but on the opposite side which is where I put the other.

I am going to let the car charge for a few hours and try cranking again and see what happens to the Volts during cranking again.

Also as a side note, I just noticed that the guy who owned the car before me had an aftermarket amplifier for the stereo installed in the trunk.  The power cable runs to the (+) side of the battery too.  since I am sure that thing sucks up power, I disconnected it from the battery.
"
I do not have a full size battery charger as I was told that they don't work well with these new "Gel" Optima red top batteries. 

I will wait a few hours and report back!

[turbohunter]

I do not have a full size battery charger as I was told that they don't work well with these new "Gel" Optima red top batteries. 

Since I use Optimas I looked for something that would work with them and wanted a real charger/starter/minder.
Get this, it's worth the money.
Also Optimas are not gel batteries, they are AGM.
http://www.batterychargers.com/xc103w/

http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/experience/power-source/what-difference-between-agm-and-gel-batteries/

[My427stang]

Dude...you got a dead battery...

Hook a good pair of jumper cables to it, let the jumper car idle for a bit and start it, I bet the power comes right up with your current wiring.  That battery tender is good for its intended use, but it's never going to help start a car.

[My427stang]

Also, keep in mind, if it does start, it is likely not your new wiring. Your battery is screaming for help, jump the poor thing.

[Heo]

yes to low voltage in the bat. it shall read 12.6 for a full battery
test it direct on the battery do you have a good multimeter
if not its time to get one. If its lower than that on the battery
it needs help .
If the bat is full there is something wrong with your conections
somewere. Its often bad or not enough ground wire

[cobracammer]

unfortunately no jumper cables.  Unfortunately all I have is the battery tender.  Its supposed to have a full charge mode (red light on) and then once its fully charged, then the green light comes on and it keeps the battery at a full charge.  Its been like 2 hours and the battery tender is still on red light.

Since I have the Computer directly wired to the battery now (and not to the passenger side kick panel fuse box jumped off of the MSD box and the lock out solenoid), I turned the key on, Flipped the toggle switch for the computer, and now the handheld reads 11.9...... and the battery is still charging.

What I am looking for is when the battery is charged and I crank the engine over, as per FAST tech support (Yeah I know), the handheld should never dip below 10 Volts.

[My427stang]

You are doing well, just remember, new motor, rings have a lot of friction, you have a big electrical requirement for the pump, ignition, EFI, basically it takes more sometimes than just being charged.

If this continues to fight you, don't try to troubleshoot until you rule out that it just isn't an issue with not enough battery, find some cables or borrow a big battery charger.  They work fine for what you need it for, you aren't trying to repair an AGM, you are just trying to give all the circuits some amperage.

A good of jumpers off a decent vehicle would be great too. 

[cobracammer]

Thanks Ross,  ill pick up a pair of jumper cables this week and give it a go