My 427 SOHC Build..... Finally the time has come!

[cobracammer]

OK there has been a short Pause for a reason.  I wanted to get studs for the intake manifold, studs for the valve covers, and the correct small bolts that hold on the pointer, stub cam cover, inspection covers, etc.  I also picked up ARP 12 point nuts for these studs so it will be "pretty".  All should arrive by Friday, so hopefully this weekend will be somewhat productive.  I also ordered a Oil pump priming drive....  I want to prime the oiling system when I'm done so I can make sure first that I did not leave out a plug somewhere... and second, that I don't have a leak.  I think you can run it with an electric drill.

[WConley]

Remember to spin the drill backwards, or you'll be cursing!  Best of luck getting the beast together.  Sounds like you're on a good track.

- Bill

[machoneman]

A speed handle with the right size socket works as well. Just be sure to duct tape the socket to the handle to prevent it from dropping off!

[cobracammer]

Thanks Guys!  Good tips.  Last night I went back at it.  I lashed all of the intake valves at 0.016  and all of the exhaust valves at 0.023.  FINALLY LOL  The last thing I did for the night (as I am still awaiting the ARP 12 pt nuts for the valve covers and intake, was to put on the valve covers.  Not a huge step, but a mile marker for me for sure.  in order to keep the cork gasket from moving around, I put 5 or 6 tiny dots of TA-31 on the valve cover surface and positioned the gasket.  after a minute or 2, I was able to put it on without the the gasket moving on me.  I put the studs I got from "Bolt depot" on in anticipation of the nuts which come today.  So next step is to put on the inspection covers and stub cam cover and flip it over to put on the oil pan.  I am so close..... I can taste it.

[cobracammer]

Ok so the ARP 12 point nuts came today. I got the valve covers bolted down using the studs. I also took the opportunity to put the copper sparkplug tubes and o-rings in place. I then torqued the sparkplugs down at 20 ft lbs. wanted to seal up the heads so i feel better now. I have studs and 12 pt nuts for the intake manifold so i will do it tomorrow. See below:

[cobracammer]

Another spot of good news (and believe me... I'll take it where I can get it at this point!)....  The windage tray fits perfect with no interference at all.  I believe I will have to enlarge the rear sump pick up support bracket (the one that will bolt under one of the main cap stud nuts.  Right now, the bolt hole is too small to fit around the stud.  The First gasket has been sealed to the block (trimming away a small amount of material around the rear main cap bolts as there was a small bit of interference.  I used the windage trey as a compression tool by bolting it down on top of the gasket and sealant.  It has been drying for about 2 days.  I dry fit the pick up, and this is when I discovered the fitment issue.  I will make the hole a little larger and then seal the other side of the 1st gasket to the windage tray, the 2nd gasket (front and back and bolt it all together with the stud and nut kit.

I need to start looking for a dyno person to run this engine (and fine tune the timing), but nervous.  I guess I wont know until I try.  :0\

[cobracammer]

Well as expected, another hiccup.  the intake manifold bolts are 3/8-16.  8 of the 10 bolts torqued down to 20 ft lbs no problem.  2 of them stripped.  I honestly am starting to hate aluminum!  Anyway, luckily this was a dry torque (sans sealer).  I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have any issues before I sealed up the intake with the TA-31.

So given this, I purchased 3/8-16 Heli-coils.  I am going to replace all 10 bolt holes with these coils.  Picking them up today from the auto parts store.

In other news, I found out my EFI system does not control my timing curve via the distributor.  In talkin with Jay as well as the techs at MSD, I need to replace the 2 heavy silver springs that the distributor comes with out of the box with one light silver spring and one light blue spring.  Also need to change out the bushing to a black (smallest) one.  This should produce the proper timing curve.

[AUSSIE427SOHC]

Thanks Jay.  I will see if I can fashion something in order to get the spring off.  I see they make a universal spring removal tool that they sell at Autozone.  Its like $20, and I don't see why it wouldn't work. 

So just so I understand, I will still use clay? (I saw you used a check spring and clay in the 519" build).  The only difference is that the check spring gives you the "worse case scenario" as far as valve depth?  And If I used a normal spring, the valve would not travel as "deep" just turning the crank by hand thus not giving you an accurate measurement?  Even when you use a check spring, the heads still need to come off to remove the clay for measurement right?

I believe out of the who build process, timing the cams has had me the most nervous (So much so that I purchased an extra set of the ferrea lightweight valves just incase)  lol  Hopefully I don't need them!

Hi Jason, I found your thread last night and read all 18 pages to bring me up to speed. Just curious about the valves you bought, do you have a part number or were they a custom order? I am just about to start building my own heads.

Cheers, Warren.

[My427stang]

Well as expected, another hiccup.  the intake manifold bolts are 3/8-16.  8 of the 10 bolts torqued down to 20 ft lbs no problem.  2 of them stripped.  I honestly am starting to hate aluminum!  Anyway, luckily this was a dry torque (sans sealer).  I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to have any issues before I sealed up the intake with the TA-31.

So given this, I purchased 3/8-16 Heli-coils.  I am going to replace all 10 bolt holes with these coils.  Picking them up today from the auto parts store.

In other news, I found out my EFI system does not control my timing curve via the distributor.  In talkin with Jay as well as the techs at MSD, I need to replace the 2 heavy silver springs that the distributor comes with out of the box with one light silver spring and one light blue spring.  Also need to change out the bushing to a black (smallest) one.  This should produce the proper timing curve.

For a 3/8 threaded hole to strip at 20 ft lbs, you must have had an issue, even with aluminum.  They can handle much more than that.

Did you check your thread depth and bolt length and account for the washer?  Is it possible you cross threaded the bolts that stripped?  Could your torque wrench be off?

Too short can pull threads and too long can push them out, I'd look close, it'll do the same thing with a helicoil, you'll just end up with a bigger damaged hole.

[cobracammer]

Hi Warren,

The valves are light weight Ferrea Valves.  Oddly enough, I live right near the Ferrea factory that makes the valves, but when I asked if they could sell me a set, they gave some reason that they could not along the lines of "Bill Coon" owened the rights to the valves and I would have to order a set through him or one of his suppliers.

Luckily, Keith Craft had a set.  I actually drove from NYC to Arkansas so he could do a 3 angle valve job and install the valves.  He did a great job by the way.  When I got home, I contacted him again and asked if he had another set.  He had one left (at the time) so I purchased it as a spare set.  I am glad I did because I needed it  LOL

My advice is to contact Keith or Shelly Craft in Arkansas (Keith Craft Motorsports), or speak with Jay Brown.  I am not 100% sure, but I think he uses Manley valves?  He may have the information you need to order a set from Manley.

[cobracammer]

As far as the 3/8"-16 bolt holes for the intake, It is very odd.  I can say that the 2 bolts that stripped were both on the Driver side head.  All other bolts (8 others) torqued down with no issues at all.  I am thinking it was just a bad thread job and with aluminum threads.... they just stripped.
Not taking any chances, last night I got 3/8-16 steel helicoils.  I drilled out (carefully and nervously) the bolt holes as instructed.  I stuffed balls of painters tape in each drain hole in the valley of the block as well as a piece over the distributor hole.  I used tape instead of paper so any metal shavings would stick.  I made sure when I drilled out the existing threads that I did it in steps.  Each time I pulled out the bit to make sure I wasn't going any deeper than the original hole.  Then I tapped each hole for threads as I went for the Helicoils.   After the drilling and the tapping, I used a shop vac to suck out the hole of shavings as well as anything that dropped onto the valley (block).  I was meticulous about this, and even when I was done for the night, I left the tape covering each hole in the block until I can come back and scrub it out with soap and water.... and sucking that up with the shop vac.

As of right now, all 10 holes have the helicoil installed.  I have longer studs coming today in the mail, and 12 point ARP nuts to fit.  Rather than using the grade 8 bolts, I am going to use studs with ARP lube.  I figure if I bottom out the stud and then just torque the nut, I wont run into any stripped threads.  I also ordered studs for the carbs (EFI throttle bodies).  Holefully that will be the last time I need to use Helicoils.

[KMcCullah]

I'm surprised the 3/8-16 threads stripped at 20ft/lbs. And I said this before when you had problems with your aluminum block but I'm really surprised that every tapped hole in the aluminum head castings didn't have some kind of threaded insert. It's just a standard thing for me with all of the machinery I build. Every tapped hole gets a threaded insert of some type with cast aluminum. Now billet aluminum is a different deal.

I'm anxious to see this baby on a dyno. I don't think I've ever seen a true 427 SOHC dyno sheet. 

[Jim Comet]

Make sure you verify the torque for the studs you are using when torquing with ARP lube. Some years back I used ARP lube on stock head bolts and tried to torque them to the stock spec. I ended up pulling the threads out on 2 holes in my iron block. If you were using ARP lube on the bolts that stripped out, it may have been due to over torquing due to the super slippery ARP lube.  Jim

[cobracammer]

I think what worried me about the threads stripping before the Heli coils is that it was only 20 Ft Lbs.  I didn't use ARP lube on them when they stripped.

I am hoping that at only 20 Ft Lbs, the helicoil threads will hold.  In other great news, the Post office changed my date of delivery to tomorrow.  Honestly the post office down here sucks.  Looks like I will have to wait until tomorrow night to get the intake bolted down  :0(

[WConley]

I have to agree with the comments Ross made above about your torque wrench.  20 ft-lbs seems awfully low to break a 3/8"-16 fastener.  I think you mentioned that you broke a fastener on the front as well.  I'd borrow another wrench if possible and check some of your other fasteners.  Back a few off and re-torque.  You may find the correct torque is far less than what you've been seeing with your wrench.

- Bill