Upgrades to my R-code Mach 1...

[cjshaker]

Would you clear up the interference deal for me?
Is that an aftermarket bell housing deal?
Or more specifically a Lakewood deal?

Marc, the issue was just a combination thing. I have a Lakewood bellhousing, an older unit that is at least 30 years old, and I have used 3 different clutch/flywheel combos in it. The first was a OEM type with a little extra holding power, the second was a Centerforce combo, and neither had any issues with fitment or clearance. This third set, a Ram Powergrip HD clutch pack and billet flywheel did. Evidently the pressure plate assembly is slightly taller/thicker than the others I've used. This set the pressure plate slightly out farther, just enough to lightly make contact with my throwout arm. There is an indented area in the arm where it pivots and sits in the clip inside the bellhousing. That raised area was where the pressure plate bolts (not the ones that hold it to the flywheel, but the bolts that hold the pressure plate assembly together) made contact. It was just catching the top edge of the throwout arm. There is a small 1/4" spacer that sits behind that clip that is welded into the bellhousing. It raises the clip up a bit. I simply cut the welds, removed the spacer and ground it flat and reinstalled the clip. I had to grind the bell opening where the arm goes through because it was not square from the factory and the shallow side was close to the arm at full depression. A really simple job overall, it only took about 20 minutes worth of work with the bell out, and it's something I probably should have checked before installation but didn't because I had never had the issue before. I hope that explains it a bit better. I should have taken more detailed pictures to show the issue, but I just wanted to get it done and back together

I can still take pictures to show it better if you want. Just let me know.

[turbohunter]

Yeah much better, thanks.
I couldn't visualize how the arm was mounted in the Lakewood housing as I'm just used to OEM styles.
Totally get wanting to get it back together also.
Couple of questions, hope you don't mind.
Is it possible the aluminum flywheel is a bit thicker than steel?
And does not the old Lakewood housings have more room inside than most new ones?
Thanks for your time.

[cjshaker]

Heck no I don't mind questions. That's what we're all here for.
It's a steel flywheel to help idle and street manners, and to be honest I never measured thickness. My Centerforce flywheel was lighter, but that's typically done with scalloping on the back side, which it was. The Ram didn't seem any thicker from the ring gear out, but clearances were close enough that it wouldn't have taken much. So it may have been the flywheel, the pressure plate or both. But I'm not taking it back apart to measure 

Lakewood bells have always been the same but I think dies wore over the many years of production so fitment issues slowly got worse. Recently, Lakewood quit making them altogether and I'm guessing that's probably the reason why, it's just not a big enough seller to reinvest in. That's just a guess though.

[turbohunter]

Oops, sorry, had it in my head your new set up was aluminum.
Thanks Doug, really appreciate it.
BTW, you car is awesome. Congratulations.

[machoneman]

Heck no I don't mind questions. That's what we're all here for.
It's a steel flywheel to help idle and street manners, and to be honest I never measured thickness. My Centerforce flywheel was lighter, but that's typically done with scalloping on the back side, which it was. The Ram didn't seem any thicker from the ring gear out, but clearances were close enough that it wouldn't have taken much. So it may have been the flywheel, the pressure plate or both. But I'm not taking it back apart to measure 

Lakewood bells have always been the same but I think dies wore over the many years of production so fitment issues slowly got worse. Recently, Lakewood quit making them altogether and I'm guessing that's probably the reason why, it's just not a big enough seller to reinvest in. That's just a guess though.

I do think that is correct (worn dies) as I've heard the same elsewhere. The last Lakewood I bought (SBF, not FE) was clearly off even by eye inspection as the right side (passenger) bolt holes definitely shifted to the right (so were the left of course). Upon indexing, I needed to move the bell up and to the left quite a bit (forget how much now). I drilled the centering holes on the bell for the block pins and welded in offset washers to the bell....washers that btw came with the bell!.

Oddly enough, I also could not get my tranny to draw up into the centering hole. Come to find the red paint was so thick it was the problem. Some sanding and voila! No more Lakewood bells for me.   

[cjshaker]

Bob, mine being an older one, I've never had many of the problems that others have had. I've checked it on two blocks and never had to center the bell, it was always right on. Also, my tranny snouts have always slid right in to the pilot bearings, so that also tells me that the centering is good. I did initially have the problem of getting a toploader to draw up, but one quick roundy-round with a die grinder and it has always drawn up with just a slight resistance....perfect.

On the other hand, I've heard plenty of guys say they had to fight them to make everything perfect on later ones. But I've heard plenty of those stories with the new Quick Time bells also, along with other issues. So it seems either way you go, it's most likely you'll need to do some work to get them just right. I'd like to find another "old" Lakewood. They seem to have the least amount of issues.

[machoneman]

Good point. It could be the fact that the SBF bells were hydro-formed in such volume that the dies wore or somehow (more likely) the die locating pins shifted.  'Course they are different dies for the FE and SBF so....

Odd too that long ago nobody, and I mean nobody bothered to index an old Ansen or Lakewood bell. It was bolt it up and go!  And never an issue. So, something has changed over the years for sure.

[cobracammer]

I just caught sight of your GT with the Saleen grill in your first photo!  You have a stable of Pony's there!  Very nice Doug.

[cjshaker]

I just caught sight of your GT with the Saleen grill in your first photo!  You have a stable of Pony's there!  Very nice Doug.

Yeah, I added the Saleen grille and a Roush rear spoiler along with smoked taillights, front air dam, Borla cat-back, Kooks headers,  CAI with a 93 tune and an MG shifter, which is the cats meow for hitting 3rd in those trannys. I was looking for a Saleen or Roush engine, but couldn't find one locally. The car is a blast to drive, that's what caught my eye about your build, you're taking a pretty fast car and turning it into a monster! I love it

[cjshaker]

Just wanted to throw up a video of the car since it's being driven pretty regularly now. I just made a 100 mile round trip to a car show a couple of weeks ago and it performed flawlessly, so I'm pretty confident now that I could drive it about anywhere within reason. So far I have over 300 miles on it. After a bunch of tuning, and having to replace the Taylor plug wires due to them failing (switched to Crane Firewire, very nice wires....thanks, Blair), the car runs flawlessly from stoplight to stoplight and around town slow speed, and transitions very well from there up to redline, which I've bumped up to 6400 on the rev-limiter but still shift at 6000. That keeps me from hitting the limiter on the 1-2 shift. The car runs cool....195 is the highest I got it to go on a 95* day with high humidity and slow in-town driving, otherwise it stays put at 180*.

The car really needs more gear. The 3.89s kill it off the line until the revs come up. The stock 3.78 stroke crank needs some revs before it really starts to come alive, but that's the nature of a 427. I have to back off the gas after the wheels start to spin and that kills it for the first 100'. I shifted pretty easily on here, but the toploader and Hurst work very well and I can speed shift pretty easily with this setup. I'll be looking at some lower gears over the winter, along with a Gear Vendors Overdrive. That will really wake the car up more.

After the initial run, at about the 25-30sec mark, you can jump ahead to about the 1:45 mark for a quick drive-by just for a listen to the Borla mufflers.

http://youtu.be/2-eOk3Y3k5A

[Lenz]

I like your test track, that's a nice stretch with a ton of visibility too, and the occasional crown vic is easy to spot .  The car sounds strong and the Borlas play a great tune.  About that gear, they never are quite done are they?  Still, looking to move to the GV OD is less daunting than what you were facing earlier this year.  Nicely done

[fastback 427]

Looks and sounds great! Looks like the front jumps up pretty good. How does the cal tracks and new tires hook? Hows the ride?

[cjshaker]

I like your test track, that's a nice stretch with a ton of visibility too, and the occasional crown vic is easy to spot .

Lenz, I'm pretty fortunate to have some really nice, old, deserted highways around my area. Plus a nice new interstate that has practically zero traffic at night and very little during the day. While it was pretty much a waste of tax money, it does prove useful for other purposes

Here's another stretch that has very nice smooth pavement and zero traffic for 2 miles. This is where kids always went to drag race back in my school days.





And here's a pretty cool filling station that was restored back to its former glory and turned into the local Historical Societys building just a few miles from me. Stopped just to get a photo op.

Looks and sounds great! Looks like the front jumps up pretty good. How does the cal tracks and new tires hook? Hows the ride?

The front definitely rises and plants the car better, and the M/T ET Streets hook much better than any other street tires I've had, but as you can see from the video it really needs more gear and traction that only a track can provide. When the tires start to spin I have to let off to keep them from just smoking and that really ruins any "launch". There are better paved roads and with a small burnout it would have done much better, but I was just playing here.

The ride I've had to get used to. The suspension and rear tires really change the characteristics of the car, but nothing drastic and easily adjusted to once you get familiar with it. The rear springs are stiffer and with the front small block springs being much lighter the car will float a bit on uneven roads, but it's very nice and smooth and tractable on good roads. Once under hard acceleration I'm pretty amazed at how stable and responsive the car feels. It really settles down nicely and is very easy to drive through.

[cobracammer]

Slobbering over that sound! ! ! !

[cjshaker]

Thought I'd post an old picture I came across and throw up a couple of driving videos just for the fun of it.

Here's an old picture I came across that I hadn't seen in years. I bought the car when I was 15, literally in hundreds of pieces. It took me 3 years to get it together (somewhat) and get it on the road. This was my graduation day. I literally had only gotten it on the road about 1 week prior. Still missing a few parts, but it was DRIVEABLE!!



Here's a short video I took with my phone. I was letting up when I got into 4th because it wasn't the place for a full on boogey.
http://youtu.be/KhXVsk_Tos4

Here's a longer GoPro video, which you can skip to the 3:40 mark if you just want to see the fun part. Just a short cruise showing its idle characteristics and street manners. For a 264@.050 solid cam, it's really manageable and streetable with the lower gearing and 4-spd. Typical bad GoPro sound though.
http://youtu.be/4QCcUptqPIc

Really enjoyed driving it this late summer and managed to get about 300-350 miles on it. The roads have already been salted so it's on jacks now. I'm really hoping to finally make it to the FE Reunion next year.