Upgrades to my R-code Mach 1...

[cjshaker]

Decided to change my front and rear suspension on my 427 SO equipped R-code Mach 1 while I had the engine out waiting for a different one....but still another 427 SO. I wanted to get away from the stiff aftermarket coils (620s I think) I had originally put on the car when I restored it. They rode fine with the iron head/block weight of the 427, but there was NO front end rise when you got on it. It would just instantly roll the tires. Of course the BF Goodrocks didn't help

My starting point....



My old coils went right in with a tap from a rubber mallet. I could see that wasn't going to be the case with these. They were quite a bit taller.



My old homemade spring compressor used a plate that went over the shock tower and a threaded rod that dropped through the spring. It worked really well, but the threads had started to strip after a several times use, so I decided to get one of the newer types and save having to make another one. I think I'll make another one like my old one....I did NOT like using the new one. It was a royal pain getting the darn think compressed on the floor enough to get it in the tower!!

Gave me a chance to clean the underside of the chassis and wheel wells while I had everything apart.



Well I'm glad THAT'S over with!! Besides being nervous using the compressor and holding about a ton of compressed force in my hands, when I started to jack the upper A-arm up to hold the spring in place I didn't realize I was taking so much weight off the jack stands (with no engine weight).....and suddenly the car moved and shifted towards me!! I thought for sure it was going to drop off the jacks and right down onto the floor!!!   I immediately pushed against it and it stopped. When I looked underneath, the frame rail was sitting on about 1/2" of the outer lip of the stand!! Holy Cow!! I got really lucky there

I immediately got the jack under it and repositioned the stands and checked the rears. Won't make THAT mistake again! But got it all back together and everything cleaned up real nice.



Getting the CalTrac rear suspension on was a piece of cake compared to the front springs   Again, it gave me a chance to clean everything really well, and again I was surprised at how nicely everything cleaned up. It looked like I had just done the car. The AMK chassis bolt system I had used really was holding up well. All the bolts still had a nice phosphate coating. Along with the DP40 epoxy primer I used on everything, which they quite selling after the government decided it was too "deadly", the chassis still looked like a million dollars....which is just a couple dollars shy of what I have in the car

I really like the quality and fit of the CalTracs. And they have GREAT customer service. After talking with Travis there, he was extremely helpful and a pleasure to talk to. Great people.



So after I had the front and rear suspension done, I couldn't stand it....I had to throw on my rims to check them out. I was nervous about finding a set of rims that I thought looked "old school", but still looked right on a '69. Most people think, and I agree, that Magnums are about the best looking and ONLY correct looking wheels on a '69. But I was just getting tired of having the same look as everybody elses car. I wanted something different....something period looking....something cool. I think they nailed it!! At least I'm happy with them, and that's all that counts

I didn't have the center caps on yet....



I'm really glad I had the rear narrowed 1" on each side because the rims had 1" less backspacing than my Magnums. It put the tires out where they would have originally been. But now I wish I had had it narrowed 2", then it would have that "tucked in" look that I like. But then I would have trouble putting the Magnums back on with 275-65/15s, so I can live with it. It still gives me enough clearance that I don't think rubbing will be an issue.



Still plenty of room too at the front inner section of wheelwell where they always get close. The Magnums were actually a little tight here with the 1" more offset. The M/T ET Street tires I chose are actually about identical in size, so I figured everything would work good. I love it when a plan comes together   And that is NOT rust on the bottom. Just dirt that easily washed off and looked good as new again when dried



So then I tackled the truck. All new rubber hoses, belts, vacuum lines etc. New front tires after replacing the old split rims with one piece....that I had to track down and drive 60 miles to get   Those suckers are getting hard to find in my area! New front shocks, rebuilt the carburetor, rebuilt the distributor, oil change, all filters replaced, new plugs etc. etc. etc. She should be ready make the haul. Of course it never hurts to take along some spares, like alternator, distributor, fuel pump etc. And the cool part is they all work on either of my vehicles. I was laughing with my Dad telling him I could replace just about anything on the side of the road and be back on my way. He said like the days of the old Model T
She ain't pretty, but it's darn near bullet proof.



Now I'm just sitting, nitpicking details....waiting on a call from the engine guy....after 4 months

[Lenz]

Talk about clean underneath , great photo essay.  I can sympathize on the spring compressor, first thing I did to the Galaxie was new coils.  I've used my spring compressor maybe a half dozen times, hated it every time.  I pin the coil down with 1 foot, hold with my left hand and ratchet with the right.  All that stored energy has made me plenty uneasy every time (maybe a healthy respect for what can go wrong has kept me alive ).

Oh, and I think that truck is downright purty just the way she sits .

[fastback 427]

Super clean stang doug!!! Like lens said nice pics. When I did my front springs I went to oreilly and bought their rental tool new in box. Much heavier than the one they steel on the shelf. The Cal tracs coupled with those "stickey Mickey's" will not "roll".   With the mono leaf in the back two fat guys can't push my car down so clearance should be good. I know you gotta be itchin to try these mods out! Thumbs up on the wheels too!

[ScotiaFE]

Looks Great Doug. Super Clean!
I notice you still have the big bar in place up front.
Your going to want that off for track day.
Love the Hauler too. Putting on a great show Doug.
Best of luck.

Just thinking the last time I put the tall skinny springs in.
Got the engine in all excited and put it down on the tires.
The springs were just not up to the weight. The car settled down way to far.
Another round of spring swapping.
They were tall and skinny just like yours.
Just something to keep in mind the day before track day. 

[machoneman]

Like the underside a bunch as many skip the hard work needed to get it that way.  Wise to be wary of spring pressure, especially if one is attempted a spring sawp w/o the engine installed!

After reading about the no front end lift at launch.....I do hope you added the OpenTracker rollerized spring perches. Kind'a late now but they do make a big difference in launch and overall handling as well.  The OEM Ford rubber perch design really doesn't rotate on the cross pin well especially as the rubber ages.  Ford originally had designed a steel pin riding in a bronze bushing as depicted in some early pre-production Mustangs but apparently the noise factor had engineering drop it for the current rubber bushed set-up. They should have kept it.

http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/

[cjshaker]

Thanks for the kind words guys. I was lucky to buy the car when I was 15 (my first car) when nobody wanted muscle cars. Spent the next 15 years gathering NOS parts for it, back when you could actually easily find NOS parts for them, before starting the 1 1/2 year restoration. Of course I'm pretty sure '69 Machs didn't come with dual 4 427 Sideoilers, but what else are ya gonna do when you've got one laying around?

I talked to several guys about the small block springs who have been running them for years on their drag cars and they didn't seem to have issues, so we'll see. Jay runs these same springs on his Mach (although he has an aluminum block and heads) as does Rusty Gillis on his original SS Cobra Jet. One things for sure, my old tower type compressor works MUCH better, so I'll update my old one and use it if need be. Much safer than compressing the spring out of the car!! Sorry Len, it only works on shock tower cars

I am going to remove the sway bar and probably leave it off. With a locker and skinnys on the front, corners will be treated with respect...lol. I have a set of opentracker roller perches ordered but they only make them when an order is placed it seems. Don't think I'll have them in time, but with my other compressor, changing them won't be a big deal. Just compress the spring in the tower, unbolt the shock and perch and replace. No taking the spring out.

Despite what it looks like, the car does not get trailered. I just don't drive it in the rain or on stone roads. This will be the first time on a trailer since I was restoring it.

[mmason]

You can buy your spring perches here.

http://www.streetortrack.com/Spring-Perches-c-928.html

[SE2839]

Cleaner than my dinner plate, very sweet indeed!

[jayb]

The car looks beautiful Doug, and I think you hit the nail on the head with the wheels.  That thing is going to look even better going down the track...

[ScotiaFE]

I'm not saying don't use the light springs.
Just that not all springs are equal.
The springs I was talking about were bought from some abc company put in and dropped
about 1 1/2" to much for liking. Bought another set from cba company and settled down to about
1/2" to where I was looking for. Now this was more than 10 years ago so I sure all the Mustang parts houses
have all got together and now all springs are an equal standard.

Hopefully all the Fairlane parts houses will get together and make all their parts standard and correct also. 

[cjshaker]

Howie, I know what you mean about the spring variances. I will just have to wait and see how these sit. I think I should have gone with 28" tall front tires. That would have gained me another inch in the front, but I'll wait and see how it sits when the engine is in.

And Mr. Mason, thanks for the link. I just may have to give them a call and see if they have them in stock.

[babybolt]

Hi Doug,

When you bought your ET wheels, did you go through a dealer or directly to ET?

The other Doug

[cjshaker]

When you bought your ET wheels, did you go through a dealer or directly to ET?

The other Doug

Doug, I bought them through Speedway Motors, but only because the fronts were $50 cheaper each wheel because they didn't have lug nuts and they take a special lug nut and key. Speedway has "garage sale" items that either are missing parts or have flaws on them. These were perfect, just no lug nuts. Then I called ET directly and bought the lug nuts off of them for $20 ($2 each, very reasonable). Saved myself $80

And I have to mention here, when I called ET, they were VERY helpful and friendly to deal with. The first person I talked to actually forgot to send the nuts out, so after a week I called back. That time I think I got the owners wife and she was VERY apologetic and said they had just caught the oversight that morning. She sent them out to me that very day through USPS Priority Mail at their expense. She was very nice. I got them 3 days later. If I ever want ET wheels again I think I will deal with them directly. They will even custom make your wheels if you have special needs like backspacing, lug size etc., as long as it's doable on the casting.

You have to love a company when it's U.S. based and they treat you like you're a priority customer. I got the same treatment at CalTrac. They even told me if I did not like my spring ride height that he would let me try/drive them for over a year and still be able to return them for a different pair. Now THAT'S customer service! This whole venture has somewhat restored my faith in that small businesses still know how to treat a customer....with integrity, quality of workmanship, standing behind their product and outstanding customer service.

[fastback 427]

Hey Doug, just wondering if you got your engine back yet or if you have an eta?

[cjshaker]

Hey Doug, just wondering if you got your engine back yet or if you have an eta?

No, after over 5 months


Since I've had plenty of time to nit-pick at the car, I decided to tackle my rim-blow horn switch and a fuel gauge problem that recently showed up. After a few pointers on the rim-blow switch, I installed a new one with very little problem. I had tried that before and ruined a good NOS switch. I was having a little problem at first, using the supplied "popsicle" stick so I looked for something a little better suited to sliding the switch in. Being a guitar player, I found that a guitar pick worked PERFECTLY.. It went smoothly after that!

Here's a picture of how I used it to walk my way around the wheel.



Soooo, with that taken care of, on to the fuel gauge.....

The gauge was not reading steady. It would fluctuate slowly, then not read at all. Typically it's a sender issue, or a wiring problem. So I started doing some checks and everything was checking out ok. Had me a little puzzled, so out came my wiring diagram. At this point I attributed the problem to a reproduction circuit board that I installed when I did the car. It had delaminated in a small area then, so I assumed it got worse and that may have been causing my problem.

So out came the dash and gauge cluster....



After getting frustrated not finding any issues with anything, all grounds cleaned and checked and the circuit board looked ok except for the small delaminated area, I started checking my plug in. After exhausting all checks there, I was down to the gauges, so I checked them. The low voltage gauges that Ford uses should all spec out at about 13 ohms. They all did except for the fuel gauge which read .2 ohms. First time I've ever had an actual gauge go bad on me, so I never thought to check it until I had no place else to go. So anyway, I'm locating a good gauge, replaced the cheap circuit board with a newer, better made one, then my issues should be solved. I hope