Edelbrock Heads & Studs

[ScodeKen]

Jay I read in your book that head studs cannot be used with Edelbrock heads. I just took possession of a really nice 406 block that has studs installed. I already have a set of Edelbrock. Is there anything that I an do to leave the studs in or should I just remove them? Thanks, Ken.

[plovett]

I have studs in my Edelbrock heads and they work fine.  It was many years ago when my engine was put together so I don't remember anything very well.  Maybe it was the studs blocking the drain back holes?  I know my heads have some work there.

paulie

[ScotiaFE]

There is an issue with Studs and Erson Rockers.
Studs and Edelbrock are the best way to go.
Can you quote the page in Jays book?

[jayb]

Ken, are you referring to step 11 on page 62 for installing a new intake, where I say to use the correct necked down stud or bolt in the hole where the rocker shaft stand that carries the oil goes?  I can't recall saying in the book that you can't use head studs with the Edelbrock heads. 

Having said that, though, I have encountered an occasional problem with head studs and Edelbrock heads.  The stud is larger diameter than the stock bolt, so it can actually block the oil from getting up to the rocker shafts.  The oil runs from the hole in the block deck, through the transfer slot to the nearest head bolt hole, up the head bolt hole around the head bolt, and then into the passage that goes to the rocker shaft stands.  I had a case where the ARP stud was right up against the edge of the head bolt hole in the Edelbrock head at the deck, and blocked the flow of oil out of the transfer slot and into the head bolt hole. 

If you run into this problem, there are several solutions to allow use of studs.  The easiest is to use a necked down stud in this location, but of course most of the head stud kits don't offer a necked down stud for each side.  Also, this may not be a problem at all if the head stud is centered in the hole, so if you bolt on the head and pre-oil the engine and get oil at the rockershafts, there is probably no issue. Most of the time when I've used studs with Edelbrock heads, this has been the case. If there is a problem you can chamfer the bottom of the head bolt hole in the head around the oil transfer slot, to open up this area a little and allow the oil to get further around the stud.  After all, somewhere in the clearance volume between the stud and the hole there is room for the oil.  You can also drill the head bolt hole out a little larger, or use a head bolt in this one location, and use studs in all the other locations.

What the book was referring to was the studs holding the rockershafts.  Usually these sets of studs come with one necked down stud for each side.  If this is what you are asking about, and you don't have a necked down stud in your set, you can get them from Doug at Precision Oil Pumps, or Barry R at Survival, or probably direct from ARP if necessary.

Hope that answers the question - Jay

[rcodecj]

I had no issues with edelbrock heads and studs with Erson rockershafts. I got my studs from Barry R and they were necked down for oiling.
I believe they were Edelbrock #6009.
Another possible issue would be to have too large of a washer under the nut on the rockershaft stud, causing it to rub on the side of the rocker.
My Ersons came with smaller hardened washers, but ARP sells them also.

[Joe M]

If you have access to an OD grinder, grind a necked down portion on the stud to duplicate the factory bolt.
 

[Joe-jdc]

I disagree on grinding a stud, especially a head stud.  It would be better to grind a shallow groove in the head or use a Ford head bolt instead.  Whenever you grind a stud laterally/radially, you create minute surface cracks that can and will break under stress or torque.  If it were in an area where there was not continual torque applied, or a side load stressing it, then maybe grinding would be acceptable, but it is not a good practice for a quality solution.  Joe-JDC.

[ScotiaFE]

The issue with head studs and Erson Rockers.
The head stud sticks up a tad higher than a stock bolt.
The Erson rockers have a full length base that covers the head stud and
does not sit down flush. It's only on a few studs.
There have been many solutions on how to fix this over the years.
All the time I ran my Ersons on the 428 I used stock bolts so I never mod'ed my rockers.
When I bolt them down on the Geny I will trim the stud down a smidge and put a small relief
in the base of the rocker stand.

I have not seen a set of Ersons for sale for some time now.
I would definitely buy another set if I had the chance.

[ScodeKen]

Thanks to everyone for the repies. I am away from my computer and my book at this time so probably should have waited to ask the question until I had the book in front of me for reference. Now that I am thinking about it more I may have confused the fact that I have Harland Sharp rockers as well as Edelbrock heads and the rockers may be the issue with the studs. I apologize for the misstatment. It is bad when you are on vacation and all you can think about is assembling your FE. Ken

[jayb]

It is bad when you are on vacation and all you can think about is assembling your FE. Ken

Been there    The wife was not pleased...

[Joe M]

Hey Joe JDC.  I'm not an engineer but I always like to learn something new.  When I suggested grinding the stud, I meant using an OD grinder, putting the stud in a collet, indicating it in close and using a fine grinding wheel to produce a nice finish, say 32 micro or better on the stud.  Would that induce cracks as well?  Would polishing the stud after grinding reduce the possibility of cracking?  I can see how taking a bench grinder to the stud and butchering it up would create a nasty finish that would provide places for cracks to start.  Like I said, I always like to learn something.  Thanks.

[Joe-jdc]

Most of these studs are heat treated after rolling the threads, and you would grind into the treated surface and reduce the depth of treatment.  That within itself would lessen the strenght of the stud, and change the value of safety margin for torque value.  Like I said, in a critical area like a head stud, main stud, where you have so much money invested, it is not wise to take a short cut that could cost you an engine rebuild.  Definitely a NO NO in aircraft industry.  Why take a chance?  Joe-JDC.

[Joe M]

Thanks Joe JDC!  Like I said, always like to learn something new!