545" High Riser Build

[My427stang]

Can you see injector PW while its idling?

Spit balling here, but I wonder if with big injectors it cuts it back so much that it either just dribbles, or cannot spray any lower.

Maybe an increase in line pressure to allow a better spray pattern, or load a different injector slope if you have that option

[jayb]

Yes, the MS3X gives you a look at the crank trigger output waveform on one screen, and I can also see pulse width of the injectors.  Looking at those are both good suggestions; I haven't spent any time doing that yet.  I will try to look at that this weekend when I have the engine running the car; should be Sunday...

[cdmbill2]

Jay, I didn't catch if you are looking at logs from the USB output direct to your PC and the datalogging in the software, or are you using the SD card in the MS3X. Something I learned the hard way is that you have to configure the SD card logging functions input by input and you are limited to 32 channels. Some of these require calibration such as the external MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensors. Because there is no internal clock function in the MS3X (unless you added one) all logs come out with the same date/time stamp plus a sequential number. After each SD card log the software set up the next log file so whenever you eject the card and go to convert it in Tuner Studio you'll have the last log as a null that can't be converted.

If you get in the habit of pulling the card after each session, day, whatever and converting the logs sequentially, you'll get a date stamp of the time of conversion-input into your Project/datalog file. That can help keep them in order for later veiwing and re-labeling. Then delete all the log files inlcuding the null and reinsert the card with the system, same goes for removal, ony eject when the MS3X is off.

Happy tuning and driving!

[jayb]

Thanks for the tips, Bill, so far I've been logging with the PC direct from the USB port so I haven't run into that issue yet.  I'll make sure I have some time to work on those issues when I start using the SD card - Jay

[BruceS]

It's been so much fun reading about this build... and seeing the pictures too!  A question: if you wanted to run the 1 coil per plug, crank trigger ignition with no dist., but didn't want to go with external oiling what are your options?  Does anyone yet make a distributor "stub" that will drive the stock-type internal oil pump?  I was thinking that would be a relatively easy thing to do... You could even hold it in place with the stock dist hold down. Thoughts?

[jayb]

You are exactly right, all you need is a little stub distributor.  In a pinch, you could use the whole distributor and just not connect anything to it.  In fact, that has one advantage, and that is that you can install a cam sensor in the distributor for full sequential efi.  Of course, you can install a cam sensor somewhere else, too.

What I did when I ran the stock oil pump on my SOHC with the individual coils was to cut an MSD distributor up and use that.  I cut the body off in my lathe just above the groove for the seal, and then cut the shaft off about 3/8" higher than that.  Then I machined a little disc that would bolt to the top of the distributor stub, that was about 3/4" thick.  I counterbored it for a bearing that was 1" OD and 1/2" ID if I recall correctly, and then bolted it onto the top of the distributor hub so that the shaft inserted into the bearing.  That way the shaft is supported by the bushing at the bottom of the distributor housing, and the bearing at the top.  Then the whole thing just drops in place into the engine and clamps in place with the stock distributor clamp.  It was really pretty easy, but of course I have a lathe here.

I'd post some pictures of this thing but currently it is in my big SOHC engine, so I can't.  But don't let that problem stop you from running the individual coil efi system; that little stub distributor just isn't that difficult to make.

[BruceS]

Jay, I was also thinking it would be nice to have a way to grab that stub dist if it get s a little stubborn and won't come out when needed... Maybe a little ring on top to help rotate and pull?  Could be a special cap that fastens to the top when removal is required.

Also, for anyone to reply: what are the main advantages of the 1 coil per plug, distributorless ignition?  I could see where it would probably be more stable than a distributor setup, getting its signals from a crank trigger and the coils would have more cycle time between firing since there are 8 of them working instead of one.  Am I on the right track?  What other advantages are there?

[jayb]

Bruce, the screws that I used to hold the cap on the stub distributor make a good way to pull it out.  I think I used 10-32 screws, and they could just be unscrewed, and a long version installed to give you something to pull on.  And regarding the advantages, you are on the right track.  With a 36 tooth crank sensor the timing is much more stable at all engines speeds, and each coil has a whole bunch of time to charge compared to the coil in a standard ignition setup.  On my big SOHC I picked up 30 HP switching to the individual coils, so if you are going to be running at a fairly high RPM, I think there's a big advantage in that setup.  See the link below, if you haven't seen it already.

http://www.fepower.net/dyno_results.html

[fekbmax]

Jay,
On the aluminum backing plate that holds the seals for the Danny bee belt drive, I was wondering about the oil drain back home from the lifter Valley. I'm making my own and I can see there is some clearance between the plate and block but can only guess as to be much. I'll have 3/8" of clearance on my home made plate and was wondering if you think that's enough for the oil drainage from the front of the block. ? I'm thinking it should be as it doesn't seem like the Danny bee has even that much. 

[jayb]

I think that should be more than enough clearance, Keith.  I can't look at the Danny Bee setup at the moment, but I'll bet you are right that it is less than that...