Author Topic: removing sleeves  (Read 976 times)

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hbstang

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removing sleeves
« on: September 17, 2025, 07:43:07 PM »
is there an easy way to remove sleeves from an aluminum block ,with out machining or heating block?can you run a weld bead on the sleeve or use dry ice on it?

jayb

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Re: removing sleeves
« Reply #1 on: September 17, 2025, 09:50:12 PM »
Not much heat is required to remove them, stick the block in an oven for 30 minutes or so at 250 degrees and they should pop right out.  Easy...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

pbf777

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Re: removing sleeves
« Reply #2 on: September 18, 2025, 11:41:26 AM »
      Since we have a boring bar I will most often just bore them till thin, and then lift the remnants out.  Heating the block in an oven will "often" work, but I have had instances where the interference fitment was great enough that this process just didn't work as well as one might have hope for.  And then yes, I have utilized the "torch", but in doing so I will usually utilize the TIG torch without any rod, heating the sleeve wall surface just to the point of transition, just to the point of where you would typically begin to lay some filler material, but then move along rather quickly (lots of amps) as the intent is not to cause excessive heating of the aluminum, drawing a line from the bottom to the top.  I will make two vertical passes 180 degrees from one another, allow to cool and the sleeves "will" fall-out.   :)

      But do note that once you decide to use the "torch", your committed, you can't get cold feet partway though the process and then expect the machine shop to be happy about your request to now bore them out!   ::)

      Scott.
« Last Edit: September 18, 2025, 11:47:06 AM by pbf777 »

hbstang

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Re: removing sleeves
« Reply #3 on: September 18, 2025, 03:24:30 PM »
Could you do that with a mig? Running a bead 180 apart on thrust side? Dont have an oven for this

FrozenMerc

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Re: removing sleeves
« Reply #4 on: September 19, 2025, 09:11:59 AM »
I have used a MIG (two beads, 180 degs apart) on large bearing races (Heavy Truck Suspensions / Wheel ends) to get pressed in races to fall out.  That worked fine.  In theory it should work the same on cylinder liners, but I have never done it. 

pbf777

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Re: removing sleeves
« Reply #5 on: September 19, 2025, 10:44:45 AM »
     My concern with utilizing the "MIG" or even "Stick" welding is the deposited filler material increases the localized volume of molten material which then in turn will transfer greater sums of heat into the aluminum.  The weld bead would result in greater pull and shrinkage and 'is' ideal for removal of tougher bearing races in ferrous housings, but I just don't want this greater time exposure of high heat to the aluminum.   

     And I will expedite the ambient air cooling process with compressed air discharge upon the surface on the completion of each torch run.    8)

     Also be sure your "grounding cable" is in direct contact with the sleeve you're sparking to.   ::)

     Scott.
« Last Edit: September 19, 2025, 10:53:42 AM by pbf777 »