1967 Fairlane Super Stock

[GPR]

Modern car magazines seem to shuffle people out the doors pretty often. I think you'd have to be crazy to want to work for one of them.

Using the top coat to match everything up is a good idea. The car is looking real good, Rusty. But I have to admit, leaving my car someplace for others to work on would make me a bit nervous. At least they're all Ford fans...lol

Your build has given me alot of insight and ideas when I go to work on my drag car project. Thanks for the time and effort.

I have never left my car to have someone else work on it and I'm nervous.

That office also has Super Chevy, Mopar, Circle track and I'm not sure what other magazines but they all like the Fairlane! 

[GPR]

Read all about the wiring install in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.

[GPR]

Yesterday I taped the grille and sprayed it semi gloss black let it dry over night and installed today

[GPR]

I forgot to take a photo of the front bumper showing all the surface rust and dents. The rust and chrome was ground and sanded off and epoxy primed. Had to do a little bodywork



Epoxy primed again



Sanded



Slick Sand



Block sanded with 180 and epoxy primed black so I could see if there were any imperfections



Sanded again and epoxy primed white





Three coats of SPI red next day three coats of clear







Sandblasted bumper bolts before priming and painting

[cjshaker]

Looking good, Rusty.
I was just looking through some old pictures of your SS Mustang from back in the day, doing some searching for period looking drag wheels for my Mach 1. Do you still have your CJ Mustang?

[SE2839]

Rusty,
I like where you are going with this, very nice work and a beautiful car!
I wish that I had found this thread sooner, I am doing some of the same mods to the tubs and suspension with my '66 Comet. I did have a couple of questions or observations;
1. Like 66Fairlane I too was puzzled by how you had located the front spring perches, mine were cut into the frame rails which had given me more than a little pause but that was how the provided instructions said to do it. I had also contacted a friend (another Fairlane owner) who'd long ago done the same mods and he had provided me with a disc of pictures that he had taken as he was doing the work on his.
2. Calverts does offer a different pivot with a welded in place roller pin eliminating the need to notch to allow full movement. Your means of working around it is just as good and since you had not cut the frame you have not comprimised anything.
3. My open tracker suspension parts arrived the other day and I was concerned that I had been sent the wrong strut rods as they are straight where they attach to the LCA (I had expected them to be as yours) I had called John at Opentracker and he said that I have the correct ones but after now seeing your project I am not so certain and will have to go to the chassis shop to compare fitment. The ones I had ordered were for '67 Mustangs and John had said that the "hockey stick" LCA end was for the'68 and later. Did you have any issues when installing yours? 

[GPR]

Looking good, Rusty.
I was just looking through some old pictures of your SS Mustang from back in the day, doing some searching for period looking drag wheels for my Mach 1. Do you still have your CJ Mustang?

Yes I still have it we are in the middle of rebuilding the engine and will race IHRA B/SA.

This was taken a few years ago and the engine was in need of a rebuild. Note how well the track was prepped!!

[GPR]

Rusty,
I like where you are going with this, very nice work and a beautiful car!
I wish that I had found this thread sooner, I am doing some of the same mods to the tubs and suspension with my '66 Comet. I did have a couple of questions or observations;
1. Like 66Fairlane I too was puzzled by how you had located the front spring perches, mine were cut into the frame rails which had given me more than a little pause but that was how the provided instructions said to do it. I had also contacted a friend (another Fairlane owner) who'd long ago done the same mods and he had provided me with a disc of pictures that he had taken as he was doing the work on his.
2. Calverts does offer a different pivot with a welded in place roller pin eliminating the need to notch to allow full movement. Your means of working around it is just as good and since you had not cut the frame you have not comprimised anything.
3. My open tracker suspension parts arrived the other day and I was concerned that I had been sent the wrong strut rods as they are straight where they attach to the LCA (I had expected them to be as yours) I had called John at Opentracker and he said that I have the correct ones but after now seeing your project I am not so certain and will have to go to the chassis shop to compare fitment. The ones I had ordered were for '67 Mustangs and John had said that the "hockey stick" LCA end was for the'68 and later. Did you have any issues when installing yours?

That is what John sent me and they went right on with no problem. He also sent me the lower control arms to go with it.

[ScotiaFE]

For the 67 Fairlane the correct strut rod is straight, but you can put the 68 "hockey stick" rod on.

[ScotiaFE]

A bit surprised you did not go with the glass bumper.
Shaves about 20 lbs or so.

[SE2839]

ScotiaFE, he is also using the '68 and later LCA which, as it was explained to me, only has 2 holes where the strut attaches instead of four holes as on the '66s and '67s. From what I have been told and have read that may be the only difference but I do not know this to be the case. In any event, I do have the correct ones for my car and he for his with the later LCA's.

BTW. that wrecked red Fairlane on your web page reminds me of the '66 I'd had in high school until some dummy made a left turn in front of me. 32 years later I am still begrudging him, lol.

[GPR]

A bit surprised you did not go with the glass bumper.
Shaves about 20 lbs or so.

I wish I could not allowed in Super Stock

[GPR]

The rear bumper needs a lot of work



After straighten, welding and a lot of grinding and sanding I sprayed at least 3 coats of SPI epoxy and started the bodywork



After a few times of block sanding and priming I sprayed 3 coats of SPI Red the next day 3 coats of SPI Universal clear

[mlcraven]

Very nice work!

[ScotiaFE]

Is there a minimum thickness or it just has to hold a magnet.