1967 Fairlane Super Stock

[GPR]

I started this project a long time ago and I believe at this time we will be building it with a 390 to race in SS/IA or SS/JA. Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine will be featuring tech articles in upcoming issues.

This is how it looks right now without the front fenders buffed.





This is what we started with and I will catch you up on the build as time permits

[jayb]

Man, that baby is RED!  Looks great Rusty, can't wait for more details...

[GPR]

Man, that baby is RED!  Looks great Rusty, can't wait for more details...

Thanks Jay I painted it in our shop using SPI red.

www.southernpolyurethanes.com

[amdscooter]

Sporting a serious case of paint job envy over here.... that thing looks like it was dipped in candy! Be sure to keep us updated! 

[GPR]

Other than the bad quarter the car was pretty solid only needed a few patches.



We cut out the floor



2 x 2 subframe connector from the rear torque box to the front torque box and tying into the rocker and also a place to weld the roll cage.

[turbohunter]

Thanks for posting those floor pix.
I'm dead in the middle of that right now.

[GPR]

[cammerfe]

Very nicely done!!!

KS

[GPR]

At the time I did not want to spend around $700 for a new quarter so I straightened it.














Sprayed a couple of coats of Slick Sand Polyester primer over SPI black epoxy primer



Block sanded to find the highs and lows. Primed and blocked a few times







I would have been better off with a new quarter would have saved a lot of work.

[turbohunter]

Thanks again
Since you posted all those pics I have decided to cut out the front floor a bit in order to access the welding needed.
BTW my connectors weld to the trans mount rails instead of going to the torque box as yours do.
Any thought on that?
BTW
Nice work

[jayb]

BTW my connectors weld to the trans mount rails instead of going to the torque box as yours do.
Any thought on that?
BTW
Nice work

I think I'd extend to the torque box if I were you; that is where most of the strength is on the unit body cars.  I always run from the rear subframe all the way to the torque box, and tie to the front subframes along the way.

[dmazz]

Well Done, Can't wait to see it runnin.

[GPR]

Welded all around the shock tower



Welded the holes not needed in the firewall. Even welded by mistake the throttle linkage holes!!



Sanded the engine compartment down to bare metal and ground the welds on the firewall.





Sprayed two coats of SPI black epoxy.

[jayb]

Beautiful job on that engine compartment, Rusty...

[GPR]

We are building this old school with leaf springs and CalTracs.

My son Brian does all the fabrication so I had him mini tub it.









I did a little bodywork

[GPR]

Brian installed a Crites spring relocation kit.



Brian made a couple of gussets







Epoxy primed and seam sealed the wheelhouse









 

[bartlett]

I would be adding some gussets to that spring perch ....

[cjshaker]

I would be adding some gussets to that spring perch ....

If you look closely, there is one thick looking gusset on the top of the offset part. Kind of deceiving in the picture....it looks like an extension of the frame.

Very nice work. The whole thread has been interesting.

[GPR]

The CalTracs would not fit so we had to trim the bracket.



We put it on the ground and found out the other side was in a bind. Months went by then finally we took it apart and modified the frame rail.



This was inside the frame rail



Brian made a patch







I started out this was going to be a race car than I changed my mind and it was going to be a street car so I sprayed the bottom with SPI bedliner. Changed my mind again after talking to Steve Baur the editor of Modified Mustangs and Fords Magazine since he wanted to do a series of Drag Racing related stories. I will leave it on there it can't weight that much. Now it is time to paint the car so we can start putting it together.

Ready for another round of primer



Sprayed a couple of coats of SPI white epoxy to make the red pop.



After a lot of wet sanding sprayed 3 coats of SPI Red the next day 3 coats of SPI Universal clear.

[falcon428]

Looks great, gotta love the rotisserie.  It's definitely one of those tools I wonder why I didn't buy one sooner.  Money well spent. 

Now I just need to find the time to work on mine, would like to get my 68 Falcon off the rotisserie soon. 

Now if I would get off this here interweb and get into the shop I might get something done.  LOL

My Labor Day will be spent working on the 68.  Need to find some parts and get car ready for chassis shop. 

Keep up the good work!

Rodney

[JamesonRacing]

Really nice work, great to see all the pictures of the detail changes you made. 

I did very similar mods to my 66 Fairlane GT, moving the springs inboard and Calvert springs, bars, shocks.  Calvert made custom perches for me so my shocks mount on the body in the stock location.

One regret I had when I did mine was that I should have narrowed the frame rail at the back of the wheel house where the inside of the tire will rub.  I'm using 10" wheels with 10.5x30 tires, but could run taller/wider tires if the frame wasn't so close.

[GPR]

I went with Opentracker roller front suspension http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/



I also installed their front strut rods







Wilwood brakes

[BruceS]

These are the struts I have on my '66 Fairlane; I also used Total Control's variable rate coil springs.

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/strut.html.

Bruce

[66FAIRLANE]

A question on the inboard spring relocation that I have always wondered about. The offset rear shackles move the spring over approximately 2". The front relocation perch moves the spring over considerably more, maybe 3-4". Does this mean the springs sit at an angle?

[GPR]

A question on the inboard spring relocation that I have always wondered about. The offset rear shackles move the spring over approximately 2". The front relocation perch moves the spring over considerably more, maybe 3-4". Does this mean the springs sit at an angle?

The frame rail is not that wide and the location is moved about 2 1/4" (hard to get an exact measurement on the ground) and the springs are straight. 

[cammerfe]

You shoulda painted it RED!!

KS

[66FAIRLANE]

A question on the inboard spring relocation that I have always wondered about. The offset rear shackles move the spring over approximately 2". The front relocation perch moves the spring over considerably more, maybe 3-4". Does this mean the springs sit at an angle?

The frame rail is not that wide and the location is moved about 2 1/4" (hard to get an exact measurement on the ground) and the springs are straight.

Still not getting it. The spring is about 2" wide so putting it next to itself, ala rear hanger, moves it about 2". The frame rail at the front adds at least another 1-1/2". I must be missing something here.

[GPR]

A question on the inboard spring relocation that I have always wondered about. The offset rear shackles move the spring over approximately 2". The front relocation perch moves the spring over considerably more, maybe 3-4". Does this mean the springs sit at an angle?

The frame rail is not that wide and the location is moved about 2 1/4" (hard to get an exact measurement on the ground) and the springs are straight.

Still not getting it. The spring is about 2" wide so putting it next to itself, ala rear hanger, moves it about 2". The frame rail at the front adds at least another 1-1/2". I must be missing something here.

The stock spring is on the outside of the frame rail in the front and under it in the rear that is the difference. The frame rail is not straight from the front spring hanger to the rear shackle.

[66FAIRLANE]

Yeh I realise this. Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to understand. To me it doesn't matter where the frame rail is. You are still moving the spring about 2" at the back and about 3-4" at the front. If you move the spring the same amount at the front as you move it at the back it would sit directly under the frame rail. Obviously you can't do this so it goes on the inside of the rail. I am saying it is the width of this frame rail that is the difference. I am not saying what you are doing is wrong or anything, I love looking at your work and love this thread. I just can't see how the spring can remain straight and it probably doesn't matter.

[GPR]

You are NOT moving 3" or 4" in the front only the width of the frame rail or a little over 2". 

[ScotiaFE]

You are NOT moving 3" or 4" in the front only the width of the frame rail or a little over 2".

Well that's not actually true Rusty.
The front of the spring eye is moving about 4". The outside point of the spring eye moves about 4".
Although in some cases this is actually a good thing because it moves the instant centre.
You'd have to break out the slide rule to figger it all out.

I'll take a measurement of a stock location spring set and post.
If someone wants to measure the nonstock location and post we can clear this up.

[GPR]

You are NOT moving 3" or 4" in the front only the width of the frame rail or a little over 2".

Well that's not actually true Rusty.
The front of the spring eye is moving about 4". The outside point of the spring eye moves about 4".
Although in some cases this is actually a good thing because it moves the instant centre.
You'd have to break out the slide rule to figger it all out.

I'll take a measurement of a stock location spring set and post.
If someone wants to measure the nonstock location and post we can clear this up.

I posted that without a lot of thought and yes after thinking about it you are right. The next time I have my car jacked up I will take some measurements. `

[GPR]

I found another photo before the rear was installed

[GPR]

I paint everything off the car.

[machoneman]

Nice! Have you painted before for $ as a pro?

Did a '79 Capri once in two-tone with some help from a bike painter. Knew it was going to be a ton of prep work (no rust though) and wow, talk about hard, repetitive work!

[GPR]

Nice! Have you painted before for $ as a pro?

Did a '79 Capri once in tow-tone with some help from a bike painter. Knew it was going to be a ton of prep work (no rust though) and wow, talk about hard, repetitive work!

I painted back in the late 70's early 80's than quit until I started Gillis Performance Restorations with my son Brian in 2005.

[GPR]

We needed to make a trunk floor since we will not be using a stock tank.

Brian added a couple of braces



The new trunk floor screwed in place



Making a bracket for the fuel cell and battery box



This will bolt in the trunk

[ScotiaFE]

The cars looking great!
I went through the backup light.

[ScotiaFE]

You are NOT moving 3" or 4" in the front only the width of the frame rail or a little over 2".

Well that's not actually true Rusty.
The front of the spring eye is moving about 4". The outside point of the spring eye moves about 4".
Although in some cases this is actually a good thing because it moves the instant centre.
You'd have to break out the slide rule to figger it all out.

So I got the measurement.
Front 47 1/8"
Rear 47 1/4"
I'll take a measurement of a stock location spring set and post.
If someone wants to measure the nonstock location and post we can clear this up.

I posted that without a lot of thought and yes after thinking about it you are right. The next time I have my car jacked up I will take some measurements. `

[GPR]

It seems like I never have any time to work on my Fairlane but I decided to spend a little time this weekend on it instead of customer cars. I started taking this apart over 6 years ago and now its not that easy finding all the parts. I finally found the brackets for the headlights and the hood latch. After I sandblasted them I sprayed a couple of coats of SPI black epoxy.

[GPR]

I just moved this out of storage and will start working on it so that we can race it sometime in 2014. Still not sure what engine or Super Stock class yet.

[lovehamr]

Man, it's to pretty to be sitting in storage!

[price5113]

The "S" code 390 puts you in what SS class? H or I maybe? Beautiful car! Do you plan on a C4 or C6?

[GPR]

The "S" code 390 puts you in what SS class? H or I maybe? Beautiful car! Do you plan on a C4 or C6?

If I run a 390 it can run in SS/HA, SS/IA/ SS/JA, GT/DA, GT/EA, GT/FA, GT/GA depending on how much weight I add. I will be using a JPT C4.

[GPR]

My plan is to race in one of the SS/GT classes so I ordered a 427 fiberglass hood as a Christmas present for myself.



I had to trim about a 1/4" off of each side and a little off the back block sanded and epoxy primed.





I had the headlight bezels polished and he now has the grille

[GPR]

Looks better on the car

[JohnN-1BADFE]

Yes it does!  Can't wait to see this Fairlane finished!!

[GPR]

I block sanded the fiberglass hood and added a little filler



Sprayed a couple coats of SPI Turbo primer

[GPR]

Today I block sanded again and sprayed two coats of black epoxy primer. I will paint the hood red before I'm finished but it will be awhile.

[jayb]

Rusty, what is your sandpaper grit progression for block sanding?  Do you start with something like 150, and proceed up to 400 or 600 before it is ready to paint?  Or do you do something different?  Beautiful work, by the way...

[cjshaker]

I've always found that painting a certain color on different days can lead to very noticeable color variances.  Sometimes it has happened by just painting different parts in different rooms on the same day. I hope that's not the case with your hood.

I love the 427 hoods on Comets and Fairlanes.

[GPR]

I've always found that painting a certain color on different days can lead to very noticeable color variances.  Sometimes it has happened by just painting different parts in different rooms on the same day. I hope that's not the case with your hood.

I love the 427 hoods on Comets and Fairlanes.

I always paint everything apart. The deck lid was painted Oct 2010, doors and fenders Sept 2011, and the body March 2013. I have 2 gallons of paint one for the first two coats and the other for the top coat so everything matches.

[GPR]

Rusty, what is your sandpaper grit progression for block sanding?  Do you start with something like 150, and proceed up to 400 or 600 before it is ready to paint?  Or do you do something different?  Beautiful work, by the way...

It depends on what I'm working on and the final color. On the hood I blocked with 180 than did the bodywork primed with urethane primer and blocked with 180 followed with 320 than sprayed epoxy. Once I'm ready to paint I will sand again with 320 than epoxy white and since it's a solid color I will wet sand with either 400 or 600 than spray the base. If it was a light metallic I would wet sand with 800. If I have done a lot of bodywork once that is finished I would spray a coat of black epoxy and than the next day spray 2 coats of gray Slick Sand polyester primer and block with 80. If it looks straight and doesn't need more primer I would block with 180 until most of the gray is gone and finish it like the hood with urethane or epoxy primer.

[GPR]

Steve Baur the editor of Modified Mustangs & Fords picked up the Fairlane to take it to their shop. While there they will be writing tech stories for future issues as they are installing the Painless wiring harness, Autometer tach and gauges along with a Flaming River steering box, column and steering wheel.

[GPR]

There has been a lot of people laid off at Source Interlink magazines in the last week and Steve Baur was one of them Friday. Not sure what will be done on the Fairlane now.

[jayb]

Wow, that sucks.  I wonder who else got axed?  Anybody from Hot Rod or Car Craft?

[GPR]

Wow, that sucks.  I wonder who else got axed?  Anybody from Hot Rod or Car Craft?

All the editors of the Mustang magazines except Evan Smith were let go. The week before there were lay offs in California but I don't know what magazines.

[mlcraven]

Long-time Chevy guru Jeff Smith at CC is gone.

[GPR]

The Fairlane was moved out of the storage warehouse this morning and waiting to get in the shop.





Ready to start installing the Painless wiring harness and control panel. Once this story is finished the magazine will be ready to go to the printers.

[cjshaker]

Modern car magazines seem to shuffle people out the doors pretty often. I think you'd have to be crazy to want to work for one of them.

Using the top coat to match everything up is a good idea. The car is looking real good, Rusty. But I have to admit, leaving my car someplace for others to work on would make me a bit nervous. At least they're all Ford fans...lol

Your build has given me alot of insight and ideas when I go to work on my drag car project. Thanks for the time and effort.

[GPR]

Modern car magazines seem to shuffle people out the doors pretty often. I think you'd have to be crazy to want to work for one of them.

Using the top coat to match everything up is a good idea. The car is looking real good, Rusty. But I have to admit, leaving my car someplace for others to work on would make me a bit nervous. At least they're all Ford fans...lol

Your build has given me alot of insight and ideas when I go to work on my drag car project. Thanks for the time and effort.

I have never left my car to have someone else work on it and I'm nervous.

That office also has Super Chevy, Mopar, Circle track and I'm not sure what other magazines but they all like the Fairlane! 

[GPR]

Read all about the wiring install in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.

[GPR]

Yesterday I taped the grille and sprayed it semi gloss black let it dry over night and installed today

[GPR]

I forgot to take a photo of the front bumper showing all the surface rust and dents. The rust and chrome was ground and sanded off and epoxy primed. Had to do a little bodywork



Epoxy primed again



Sanded



Slick Sand



Block sanded with 180 and epoxy primed black so I could see if there were any imperfections



Sanded again and epoxy primed white





Three coats of SPI red next day three coats of clear







Sandblasted bumper bolts before priming and painting

[cjshaker]

Looking good, Rusty.
I was just looking through some old pictures of your SS Mustang from back in the day, doing some searching for period looking drag wheels for my Mach 1. Do you still have your CJ Mustang?

[SE2839]

Rusty,
I like where you are going with this, very nice work and a beautiful car!
I wish that I had found this thread sooner, I am doing some of the same mods to the tubs and suspension with my '66 Comet. I did have a couple of questions or observations;
1. Like 66Fairlane I too was puzzled by how you had located the front spring perches, mine were cut into the frame rails which had given me more than a little pause but that was how the provided instructions said to do it. I had also contacted a friend (another Fairlane owner) who'd long ago done the same mods and he had provided me with a disc of pictures that he had taken as he was doing the work on his.
2. Calverts does offer a different pivot with a welded in place roller pin eliminating the need to notch to allow full movement. Your means of working around it is just as good and since you had not cut the frame you have not comprimised anything.
3. My open tracker suspension parts arrived the other day and I was concerned that I had been sent the wrong strut rods as they are straight where they attach to the LCA (I had expected them to be as yours) I had called John at Opentracker and he said that I have the correct ones but after now seeing your project I am not so certain and will have to go to the chassis shop to compare fitment. The ones I had ordered were for '67 Mustangs and John had said that the "hockey stick" LCA end was for the'68 and later. Did you have any issues when installing yours? 

[GPR]

Looking good, Rusty.
I was just looking through some old pictures of your SS Mustang from back in the day, doing some searching for period looking drag wheels for my Mach 1. Do you still have your CJ Mustang?

Yes I still have it we are in the middle of rebuilding the engine and will race IHRA B/SA.

This was taken a few years ago and the engine was in need of a rebuild. Note how well the track was prepped!!

[GPR]

Rusty,
I like where you are going with this, very nice work and a beautiful car!
I wish that I had found this thread sooner, I am doing some of the same mods to the tubs and suspension with my '66 Comet. I did have a couple of questions or observations;
1. Like 66Fairlane I too was puzzled by how you had located the front spring perches, mine were cut into the frame rails which had given me more than a little pause but that was how the provided instructions said to do it. I had also contacted a friend (another Fairlane owner) who'd long ago done the same mods and he had provided me with a disc of pictures that he had taken as he was doing the work on his.
2. Calverts does offer a different pivot with a welded in place roller pin eliminating the need to notch to allow full movement. Your means of working around it is just as good and since you had not cut the frame you have not comprimised anything.
3. My open tracker suspension parts arrived the other day and I was concerned that I had been sent the wrong strut rods as they are straight where they attach to the LCA (I had expected them to be as yours) I had called John at Opentracker and he said that I have the correct ones but after now seeing your project I am not so certain and will have to go to the chassis shop to compare fitment. The ones I had ordered were for '67 Mustangs and John had said that the "hockey stick" LCA end was for the'68 and later. Did you have any issues when installing yours?

That is what John sent me and they went right on with no problem. He also sent me the lower control arms to go with it.

[ScotiaFE]

For the 67 Fairlane the correct strut rod is straight, but you can put the 68 "hockey stick" rod on.

[ScotiaFE]

A bit surprised you did not go with the glass bumper.
Shaves about 20 lbs or so.

[SE2839]

ScotiaFE, he is also using the '68 and later LCA which, as it was explained to me, only has 2 holes where the strut attaches instead of four holes as on the '66s and '67s. From what I have been told and have read that may be the only difference but I do not know this to be the case. In any event, I do have the correct ones for my car and he for his with the later LCA's.

BTW. that wrecked red Fairlane on your web page reminds me of the '66 I'd had in high school until some dummy made a left turn in front of me. 32 years later I am still begrudging him, lol.

[GPR]

A bit surprised you did not go with the glass bumper.
Shaves about 20 lbs or so.

I wish I could not allowed in Super Stock

[GPR]

The rear bumper needs a lot of work



After straighten, welding and a lot of grinding and sanding I sprayed at least 3 coats of SPI epoxy and started the bodywork



After a few times of block sanding and priming I sprayed 3 coats of SPI Red the next day 3 coats of SPI Universal clear

[mlcraven]

Very nice work!

[ScotiaFE]

Is there a minimum thickness or it just has to hold a magnet.

[GPR]

Is there a minimum thickness or it just has to hold a magnet.

No just has to have stock steel bumpers with braces.

[cjshaker]

I was wondering about the braces. Am I correct in assuming the car has to have all items that originally came on the car, besides sound deadener, seam sealers and the like? Have you gotten the car back from wiring yet? It would make me nervous also to hand it over like that, no matter who it was to.

I know you ran small block springs in the front of your Mustang, curious if that's what you're going to run in this car as well?

[GPR]

I was wondering about the braces. Am I correct in assuming the car has to have all items that originally came on the car, besides sound deadener, seam sealers and the like? Have you gotten the car back from wiring yet? It would make me nervous also to hand it over like that, no matter who it was to.

I know you ran small block springs in the front of your Mustang, curious if that's what you're going to run in this car as well?

They only had the car a week.

When I raced SS in the 70's you had to have the heater, wiper motor, wiring, one horn, and anything else that came with the car new. The only thing you could change was any flat tappet cam, any intake that would fit under the stock hood, any size slick that would fit in the wheel well and headers. I remember going through tech one time and they were making sure everybody had a turn signal lever. Now you are allowed to remove a lot more but it must be stock appearing.

I have Moroso springs now.

[GPR]

[GPR]

Autometer Elite tach and gauges installed. You can read all about the install in the August issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine

[GPR]

I have been busy working on customer cars and have not had a lot of time to work on the Fairlane. We now have the headliner installed and the seats.

[Mike Caruso]

Great job

[GPR]

We are making a little progress it has been over 5 years since there has been any glass in the Fairlane

[cjetmech]

Looks good Rusty, looks like you'll be making some passes pretty soon. What class is it going to run in?

[GPR]

Looks good Rusty, looks like you'll be making some passes pretty soon. What class is it going to run in?

That is a good question, I'm still not sure what engine we will be building for it.

[fe66comet]

After looking at the pics my car needs that and more. I have a Comet and it is amazing the differences in the body skin and structure. My core support is completely different for instance, I had wondered if the Comet and Fairlane core support was different but not even close. Are you going to do a full cage? I would be interested to see how it all fits together.

[GPR]

After looking at the pics my car needs that and more. I have a Comet and it is amazing the differences in the body skin and structure. My core support is completely different for instance, I had wondered if the Comet and Fairlane core support was different but not even close. Are you going to do a full cage? I would be interested to see how it all fits together.

We put a Chris Alston's Chassisworks cage in it a long time ago.

[GPR]

Brian made patterns of all the interior trim panels out of poster board



The patterns were sent to Scott Rod Fabrications in Toledo Ohio and were made in aluminum.





NHRA requires the interior trim panels to have upholstery on them so I had Mike at Mike's Tops in Port Richey cover them in cloth.





Mike also covered the rear seat area with carpet. It looks a lot better in person

[cjshaker]

Looking great, Rusty. I like the look of the cloth and carpet over just plain aluminum. It's really neat to watch your build come together like this. It really helps me to gather a plan of attack and see close up what some solid build techniques are for when I go to build my first drag only car. Thanks for sharing this with us.

[GPR]

Interior trim panels are installed

[ToddK]

That looks great. I think I may do something similar with my Thunderbolt.

[GPR]

I'm sorry to say after a lot of thinking and studying the NHRA classification guide I have decided to build a 302 from a 1968 Cougar and race it in GT/LA. It is rated at 230 hp and I can run aftermarket aluminum heads along with the same Quick Fuel carb that is the legal replacement for a 390 or 428CJ. This will be new for me because I only have experience with the FE motors. I believe it will be a lot cheaper to build than an FE and very competitive.

I guess I won't be posting anymore about this project since it's not an FE.   

[jayb]

Rusty!  Ouch!   

I think you should post the updates anyway, because its such a cool car...

[Joe-JDC]

If you go the 302 route, do you have to use a crate motor?  What heads and intakes are allowed?  There are some that work much better than others, and I would be curious what is allowed.  Modifications to the heads and intakes? 

There are so many FE heads, intakes, and blocks available, it is a shame you can't build one for less than $15K or so that would be competetive.    Joe-JDC

[GPR]

Rusty!  Ouch!   

I think you should post the updates anyway, because its such a cool car...

Thanks Jay, I was afraid I would be banned!!!!

[GPR]

If you go the 302 route, do you have to use a crate motor?  What heads and intakes are allowed?  There are some that work much better than others, and I would be curious what is allowed.  Modifications to the heads and intakes? 

There are so many FE heads, intakes, and blocks available, it is a shame you can't build one for less than $15K or so that would be competetive.    Joe-JDC

No you don't have to use a crate motor. We are going to start with a 289 block I have or a 302 roller block. AFR or Edelbrock heads are legal and any intake that will fit under the hood. I found out form NHRA I can't run the 427 hood unless the engine combo had fresh air.

[cjshaker]

Well that's a real bummer.

I'm glad Jay gave you the go-ahead for continuing the posts though. I've been following your build and it's been really neat to watch it come together. Don't cut us off now!

[jayb]

Thanks Jay, I was afraid I would be banned!!!!

If you put a Chevrolet engine in it, then you would be banned...

[Joe-JDC]

Remember the 289 cylinders are short.  A Boss 302 block would be a good foundation for a high rpm screamer with Scat forged crank and Honda rod journals for the longest rod possible, AFR 185 CNC heads, and a Parker Funnel Web intake.  Would be an interesting combination to dyno test.  Joe-JDC

[GPR]

Remember the 289 cylinders are short.  A Boss 302 block would be a good foundation for a high rpm screamer with Scat forged crank and Honda rod journals for the longest rod possible, AFR 185 CNC heads, and a Parker Funnel Web intake.  Would be an interesting combination to dyno test.  Joe-JDC

I have too many projects and a very limited budget left for the Fairlane. Yes that would be the ideal block to start with. AFR 1399/165 head is the one that is a legal replacement.   

[GPR]

The Fairlane is featured

http://classracer.com/magazine/

[Joe-JDC]

That head will be the limiting factor, but will be much better than any iron 289/302/351W head that Ford cast, even the origional '68 GT-40 heads fully ported will not match the AFR165 CNC for flow or velocity.  That makes the intake manifold selection somewhat different---I would suggest a ported RPM Air Gap, or ported Victor JR to match the oval ports of the heads.  Match every runner to 125% of the head's intake flow, and you will have the ultimate for torque and hp.  Let me know if you need any help, I am retired, but take on a few neat projects like that to help out fellow racers.    Joe-JDC 

[GPR]

That head will be the limiting factor, but will be much better than any iron 289/302/351W head that Ford cast, even the origional '68 GT-40 heads fully ported will not match the AFR165 CNC for flow or velocity.  That makes the intake manifold selection somewhat different---I would suggest a ported RPM Air Gap, or ported Victor JR to match the oval ports of the heads.  Match every runner to 125% of the head's intake flow, and you will have the ultimate for torque and hp.  Let me know if you need any help, I am retired, but take on a few neat projects like that to help out fellow racers.    Joe-JDC

Edelbrock 60217 is also legal

[mike7570]

For an easy to understand classification guide, go to the web page below.
(you probably need to sign up to use)

http://www.classracerinfo.com/

Mike G.

[lovehamr]

The Fairlane is featured

http://classracer.com/magazine/

Cool!!

[GPR]

We have been very busy in the shop and I have not had time to work on this project.

We installed a TCI shifter with a custom mount made by my son Brian and Lokar power cut off attached to the Flaming River unit in the trunk.

[turbohunter]

Looks beautiful Rusty.
What seats are you using?

[GPR]

Looks beautiful Rusty.
What seats are you using?

On page 6 is a photo of the Corbeau seats

[Nightmist66]

Excellent looking work on the whole build! Are you still planning on running a small block that you mentioned earlier?

[GPR]

Maybe not!!!!!!

[GPR]

At this time I have decided to put together a 428 from a lot of the left over parts I have and race the Fairlane in Nostalgia Super Stock at NMCA events. I can always build an NHRA legal SS engine at a later date.

[jayb]

Sounds good to me, Rusty, can't wait to see the 428 sitting in the engine bay...

[cjetmech]

Glad to hear that its getting the FE Rusty. IMO that car just wouldn't seem right with a small block, even tho it could be just as fast.

[GPR]

A friend of mine gave me the 9" rear and I think it came out of a Bronco. It is very hard to get the slicks to clear the 2" studs so to make it easier to install we are going to narrow the rear 1.25". That will center the 10.5" slick when I get a new set in the center of the wheel well.



The Wilwood brakes I have are for the late big Ford housing so we will install a set of Strange housing ends.





The battery cable runs along the frame rail. There is more clearance than the photo shows.

[GPR]

After measuring the rear that was in the Fairlane I found out the pinnon was not in the center. I had a rear out of a 1963 Galaxie that we started to narrow years ago but for some reason never finished. I measured it and once Brian welds the Strange late Ford housing ends it will be perfect for the Fairlane.

I ordered a back brace and heavy duty spring perches from Jeg's and Brian started fitting and welding today.







Next week Brian will finish welding.

 

[GPR]

Brian finished welding the spring perches



Welding the Strange late Ford housing ends

[afret]

Boy, you guys sure do some outstanding work.  You need to move your shop to North Idaho so I could get a new paint job on my car.  LOL

[cobracammer]

+1!  those Mig's look like Tigs!  Nice work

[cjshaker]

Great work as always. Those are some of the thickest housing ends I've ever seen!
I always enjoy seeing updates on your build, Rusty. Thanks for letting us tag along.

[ScotiaFE]

Those are some of the thickest housing ends I've ever seen!

I think the thick part is the steady for the bar? I could be wrong though.

Rusty
I see the spring mount hard welded now. When you set the down angle did
you just point it down 3* or so?
Great welding!!!!

[GPR]

Those are some of the thickest housing ends I've ever seen!

I think the thick part is the steady for the bar? I could be wrong though.

Rusty
I see the spring mount hard welded now. When you set the down angle did
you just point it down 3* or so?
Great welding!!!!

Yes

[GPR]

Ready for epoxy



Two coats of SPI black epoxy. I'm going to wait about an hour and turn it over again and spray a third coat.

[Cobrajet2]

Rusty,
I see you have been working on the Mustang, but was curious if there were any updates on the Fairlane?

Mike

[GPR]

No I have not been working on the Fairlane. Trying to get the Mustang back together after it has been apart a lot of years. I also have been busy building this 1978 Mustang II that I plan on making a daily driver.

[Joe-JDC]

Instead of "Rusty Gillis", you need to change your moniker to "Mr. RED Gillis".  LOL.  Beautiful cars, and amazing detail and cleanliness.  That '78 will be stunning when finished.  I always had a soft spot for the Cobra II in race trim.  Keep us in the loop.  Joe-JDC

[GPR]

Instead of "Rusty Gillis", you need to change your moniker to "Mr. RED Gillis".  LOL.  Beautiful cars, and amazing detail and cleanliness.  That '78 will be stunning when finished.  I always had a soft spot for the Cobra II in race trim.  Keep us in the loop.  Joe-JDC

It looks red but it's orange. Not FE powered not sure if anybody wants to see it here.

[jayb]

You are welcome to post about it if you want, Rusty - Jay

[gdaddy01]

I want to see it it . I like those cars , yea I know .

[GPR]

I sold the Fairlane to a friend of mine and the good news is the new owner will be installing a Blair Patrick FE in it. Stay tuned for more details.

[cjshaker]

That's kind of a bummer. I really enjoyed this thread and learned a LOT from it. I was hoping we'd get to see it through to the end. Thanks for taking the time to post this build, Rusty.

[GPR]

That's kind of a bummer. I really enjoyed this thread and learned a LOT from it. I was hoping we'd get to see it through to the end. Thanks for taking the time to post this build, Rusty.

The Fairlane won't be far away and you will still see updates.

[Russ67Scode]

I sold the Fairlane to a friend of mine and the good news is the new owner will be installing a Blair Patrick FE in it. Stay tuned for more details.

I am sure that guy is honored to be called Friend ! 
Killer car and killer engine  match made in heaven

[GPR]

This would look good in the Fairlane

[GPR]

This is the Blair Patrick engine that is going in the Mustang with a C6 transmission.

[cjshaker]

Can you give us any specs on the engine, Rusty? I see it has BBM heads and a Victor intake.

[GPR]

Can you give us any specs on the engine, Rusty? I see it has BBM heads and a Victor intake.

I don't have the specs. I'm sure Russ67scode will answer that.

[GPR]

Picked up this morning



Made it to its new home

[Russ67Scode]

It’s new home right next to the mustang

[Russ67Scode]

Can you give us any specs on the engine, Rusty? I see it has BBM heads and a Victor intake.

Doug it’s the engine out of my 67 mustang. To make a long story short I put a new Detroit locker and new gears in the rear. I hammered the throttle and the car hooked a HARD left  I hit the brakes turned the wheel and the mustang slid down the grass bank spun around came across the road and when it hit the grass on the other side it dug in and rolled over

[Russ67Scode]

Sad pictures

[mbrunson427]

Oh man, that's terrible. Were you seeing if the turbos worked?

[machoneman]

Wow, that is sad. So sorry.

Have to ask though. Was the road crowned or flat? Rear steer for sure or did the car wheelie enough to lose steering control?

[Heo]

  OUCH sorry to see that

[Russ67Scode]

Running just on the engine it makes close to 700 lbs of tq that way
The road does have a crown,Bob Maag look st last picture.  problem with the locker and about 7 lbs difference in tire pressure
Still sick to my stomach as I have had this mustang 28+ years

[Russ67Scode]

Went to edit some spelling errors and half my typing went away.
 Well the fairlane will be faster and the extra wheel base will help

[Heo]

Well not anything a port o power and some
hammer and dolly time can’t fix
I have saved Mustangs worse than that
No Rust in the lower windshield corner
a good indicator for a rustfree Mustang

[turbohunter]

I'm sick for you Russ

[cjshaker]

Wow, I feel terrible for you, Russ. That just plain sucks! First, I'm glad you weren't hurt! You must have had your seatbelts on. I've had my car for 34 years, so I know what you must be feeling, as far as losing an old friend.

I'm glad you got a new project to put the engine in, but I also hope you don't give up on the Mustang. Or at the very least, see that it goes to someone willing to put the time and effort into getting her up and rolling again. Not an easy task, but it's doable.

[mike7570]

Tub it! 
Time for full cage fiberglass doors, fenders and hood and new metal roof (think George Vega)
You can have it looking good and much lighter too. My '69 only had a metal roof and rear quarters.

[Russ67Scode]

Yesterday I installed the narrowed rear, pressed the bearings in the 35 spline axles and screwed in the wheel studs. Test fitted a set of wheels I had , ended up having to run them backwards to fit
Trying to attach photos

[Russ67Scode]

Try another pic

[machoneman]

lookin' real good!

[cjshaker]

Russ, I was just wondering what you meant by "Test fitted a set of wheels I had , ended up having to run them backwards to fit"

And thanks for continuing this thread. It'll be nice to see it through to completion.

[GPR]

Russ, I was just wondering what you meant by "Test fitted a set of wheels I had , ended up having to run them backwards to fit"

And thanks for continuing this thread. It'll be nice to see it through to completion.

The rear end is too narrow to use the wheels he has with 5 1/2" back space so he turned them around. I had 10" wide rims with 5 1/2" back space but it was almost impossible to get the tires off because of the 3" studs. Brian narrowed the rear and Russ will need different rims.

[Russ67Scode]

Thanks Rusty
Only thing I would add is the 10 inch rims were on the car with the wider rear under the car
I will try and continue to post pictures

[Russ67Scode]

More pictures. See if my work computer will post picks

[Russ67Scode]

Rim pics

[machoneman]

I see why you put on the wheels backwards. Will you eventually get wheels with the correct offset? Yeah, wheel/tire fitting can be a bitch on older muscle cars regardless of if they were Fords, Chevys, etc. I had to trim a few rear quarters, sometimes both in front of and in back of large diameter slicks, without messing up the painted 'lip' and making the cuts look good. Hated to cut OEM sheetmetal but that's racing!

[ec164]

Looking good, I like those years of the Fairlane.....Al

[cjshaker]

Thanks for the explanation, I get it now. I've often wondered how some guys get their wheels out from under their cars. Some cars have the tires right near the outer wheel well and look like you couldn't pry them out. I have no idea how they could get them out without dropping the rear. I've thought that a hitch pin in the rear shackle could easily be pulled to let the rear drop enough to get them out, but I doubt a tech inspector would like that idea much.

[Heo]

Doug i have a small hydraulic jack i put on top of
axle and jack against the framerail on the galaxie

[Russ67Scode]

Bob M. Yes I will get the correct rim  these were a set of rim/tires I had for my mustang  the fairlane is mini tubbed and has a narrowed rear

[Russ67Scode]

Test fit the old original 390 out of my mustang into the fairlane,    The oil pan was a slight issue but the pan on the BP427 has a little more clearance in that area.   Not use to having a car this nice ! it makes it harder to work on !  And I rolled out the tires I have for the fairlane.

[GPR]

Here is a better view of the Fairlane.

[Russ67Scode]

Try a link to a video of it running
https://youtu.be/FhGcccBG3Fc

At a shop now getting turbo’s installed
If you look in the background of this video https://youtu.be/9nGqqJzAjgg. You can see my car

[Cobrajet2]

This would be a question for Rusty that goes back to when he first acquired the Fairlane. Do you know if the car was originally Burgandy/Maroon with a red interior? Just curious.

Mike

[cjshaker]

This would be a question for Rusty that goes back to when he first acquired the Fairlane. Do you know if the car was originally Burgandy/Maroon with a red interior? Just curious.

Mike

If you go back to the first page, about 3 pictures down, it is indeed Maroon with a red interior. Looks like original paint in that picture also.

[GPR]

This would be a question for Rusty that goes back to when he first acquired the Fairlane. Do you know if the car was originally Burgandy/Maroon with a red interior? Just curious.

Mike

Yes and I still have the front and back bench seats n red.

[GPR]

You would never guess this sleeper has twin turbos.

[mbrunson427]

Wow. That looks great!

[turbohunter]

Very sexy Rusty.

[cjshaker]

That is officially the first real performance turbo FE I've seen, other than trailer queen "show cars" or stockers with modest performance. Looks like there's still some more work to do? Can't wait to hear back about some performance ventures. What are your aims with this, Rusty? It sure has morphed from its original plans!

[GPR]

That is officially the first real performance turbo FE I've seen, other than trailer queen "show cars" or stockers with modest performance. Looks like there's still some more work to do? Can't wait to hear back about some performance ventures. What are your aims with this, Rusty? It sure has morphed from its original plans!

I wish I still owned it!!

Russ plans on having a street legal race. The engine was in his Mustang and he had planned on going on the Hot Rod Power Tour until he wrecked it.

[cjshaker]

Duh, I forgot that Russ is the owner now. Should make for a wicked ride!

[Russ67Scode]

I really want to run drag week   The 520 ci Blair Patrick FE made well into the 600’s on HP and Tq without the turbos   So this should be as Blair says interesting
Really going to limit boost to 15 lbs max   Hope to have the car back home this week

[Russ67Scode]

A little Teaser Video, Still working on the tune, this is 2 gears and 3 lbs of boost. As you can tell it didn't hook     but Im glad I have a motor plate it really moves the car around.
https://youtu.be/Z1I7vyZ8nhU

[turbohunter]

Ohhhhh yes.

[machoneman]

I wonder if you have a chassis brace (or 2) from the motor plate to the chassis?

[Russ67Scode]

Bob Magg
Yes has frame tied and tied to rockers also. And a roll cage tied from front to back.   See pics on this thread

[Nightmist66]

Sounds good!

[Russ67Scode]

Made a few pulls on a hub dyno it made 630 hp at the wheels on 3 lbs of boost !  750 + at 7 lbs with little timing 19 deg
And then we tried some more boost read below

About 4000 rpm It started to loose fuel pressure it went from 45 to about 36 lbs   The computer drove the injectors to 100 % trying to keep fuel
But it did make almost 900 ft/lbs of tq at 3549 rpm , with 19 deg of timing also ! The graph looked like a nitrous shot it was headed almost straight up ! All this on a hub dyno. Pretty good for my first try at EFI !!  Thanks Blair Patrick for a killer engine !
Video
https://youtu.be/ZxMMfmqYOS4

[Gregwill16]

Very nice great job!

[Russ67Scode]

Good day at the races got a transbrake installed. Thanks Jim Paquet !
it really liked that best 60 ft was 1.36 was a bracket race 1/8 th mile ran a 6.0 letting out early as not to break out.    The track said no laptop in the passenger seat.  so no data logs. ran pump gas  really rich and 22 deg of timing 7 lbs boost

[Stangman]

Nice she’s coming along nice Russ. 900 lb/ft sweet.

[hbstang]

funny,4 years ago,wonder how its doing now.
recent video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1fnHXJGSAA

[Russ67Scode]

Funny you found that video. It was running on 5 good cylinders that pass. it had broke a rocker adjustier and stuffed the pushrod into the aluminum rocker. had a few other valve train problems also.  listen to the engine sounds terrible !!
12-09-23 we are headed out to the track for T N T and trying some E-85

[Russ67Scode]

So the swap to E-85 complete. on my old 93 tune (modified for E-85) and added 1 deg timing (23 deg) this is at 7 lbs of boost !  3610 lbs with me in it.
9.33 @ 145.75 mph

[hbstang]

fast fe for sure.what fuel pump regulator are you using with e85? are you going to drag and drive events?if you knock some weight off that would be in the 8s with low boost!

[Russ67Scode]

the pressure regulator is an aero motive boost reference return style
I did sick week in Florida. but ripped the pinion in two pieces on Sunday. had a new rear in it that night at 1:00 AM but then found out the transmission was broken, we later found out it had broke the input shaft
I am in the process of getting a new rear under it (all strange products) 3.0 gears. and with that I will loose the heavy steel wheels. that will be a 70 lb rotating mass reduction in weight,  I'll scale the car again after its all said and done.  I believe on pump E-85 and below 15 lbs of boost I can go to my cage limit of 8.50's

if you look on the internet at sick week and Jeff Lutz I was lined up next to him.  It had rained that morning and my rear window leaked water into the trunk.  as I did my burnout water leaked under the car, Someone said I was leaking the starter backed me up didn't see any water pulled me back in   It spun really bad. let off and it wheel hopped bad enough to break those parts and it came loose on the next run in. the middle of a big wheelie.