ARP lube, anti seize, loctite

[fekbmax]

So we all often times replace 50 year old hardware with new ARP hardware when building/assembling these engines with new parts and pieces.  I tend to always follow ARP's instalation and torque recommendations however they are often contradictory to the recommendations of said parts such as (but not limited to) dampers, timing sets, etc wich mostly always say to use loctite.   ARP spec always wants there lube used..

How about bolts going into aluminum (block) threads such as cam retainer plate, oil pump, or just general hardware for timing covers and such? 

[blykins]

For cam retainer plate and oil pump, I use Loctite.

On all other fasteners going into aluminum, I’ll use motor oil, assembly grease, anything to keep it from galling.

[mbrunson427]

Something I learned recently...maybe everyone knows this but I didn't....

ARP lube is intended to be used between the bolt and washer. Not intended to be used between the washer and the part. It's purpose is to assist in smooth torqueing, so not much needs to be used. Adding excessive amounts of the lube could cause a false torque situation when the lube heats up and runs away.

[Nightmist66]

Something I learned recently...maybe everyone knows this but I didn't....

ARP lube is intended to be used between the bolt and washer. Not intended to be used between the washer and the part. It's purpose is to assist in smooth torqueing, so not much needs to be used. Adding excessive amounts of the lube could cause a false torque situation when the lube heats up and runs away.

Yes, in fact some ARP head stud kits come with washers that have a "textured" side to face down and bite into the aluminum head. I personally gave up on ARP moly lube years ago. Once I tried CMD, the moly just seemed inferior in several ways. Just one instance, I am running Erson rockers and the washers for the rocker mounting studs overhang the stands in a few locations, so I had to grind flats on the washers to clear the rockers:

 

Anyway, I need to keep the washers located while torquing. I tried ARP's moly lube and I couldn't keep the washers from spinning for the life of me and I only applied the lube to the top side of the washer. I cleaned it off, put the CMD on the top of the washer(and threads) and as soon as the nut made contact to hold it in place, I could take my hand and whatever tool I was using off and could torque it fully in sequence without it moving in the slightest. One of the best things I've ever used. Wherever ARP lube is called for, I use CMD instead.

[blykins]

A lot of your higher end rods use CMD.   I keep a big tube of it here.   There's another lubricant that I can't remember the name of, but it's almost like a robin-egg blue color.   Whatever it is, I've used it a few times and it gives good results as well and it feels similar to the CMD. 

Yes, you want the fastener's head to turn easily, not the washer to turn on the surface of the part. 

As long as we're adding tips, some of the ARP washers have chamfers on one side.  The chamfer always goes up toward the head of the bolt.