511ci FE w/ FE Power Cylinder Heads

[machoneman]

Thanks. Now that is one high dollar engine for sure.

[1968galaxie]

This is certainly an FE engine.
Fairly Expensive.

[fekbmax]

I have oil system parts inbound from Aviaid.  Not too fond of their oil pans, they usually require a lot of modifications, but I absolutely love their dry sump pumps.   They will pull 15 inches of vacuum very easily. 

[/quote]

I agree on the dry sump oil pan, I was very disappointed in the pan I received from them and sent it back. Ended up making my own,, then sold it lol so had to make another and sold that one to at the reunion so now I'm making a third which kinda works out because each time I have made some slight changes.  I knew all those bread box oil pans I had would come in handy someday..

[mbrunson427]

The system that Dailey Engineering makes looks pretty sharp. Not sure if anyone on here has ever used one. I called kicking the tires on pricing before, as I recall it was $5K.

https://daileyengineering.com/ford/ford-fe-cammer/

[blykins]

The system that Dailey Engineering makes looks pretty sharp. Not sure if anyone on here has ever used one. I called kicking the tires on pricing before, as I recall it was $5K.

https://daileyengineering.com/ford/ford-fe-cammer/

I've used them on SBFs.  Don't really see the extra expense for them though.  The only benefit is the pump mounts on top of the pan, but I don't see that being that big of a pro for the money involved. 

[blykins]

Next round....

Got the cylinder heads on, intake adapter scribed for port matching, and pushrod clearance checked. 



In Jay's instructions, he says to make sure that the special stud nut doesn't bottom out on the stud before the gasket is fully compressed.  This is done by torquing the head down, then removing one nut at a time and using the depth gauge part of dial calipers to make sure that the distance from the end of the stud down to the washer is less than .800".  I had a few close ones, but they were all under .800". 



Was also waiting on the rocker sub-bar shims from Jay.  He sent them this past Monday and they took forever to get here.  The reason why is because the contents was lost on the way and the box showed up empty.  Thanks USPS.

[blykins]

Not much to report, but had to take some things back apart (always a fun time).  I'm using an Aviaid dry sump setup and pretty much everything interferes with the FE Power timing cover.   The setup, if you use the passenger side mount, uses a couple of bolts from the passenger side of the timing cover and the FE Power cover is taller/thicker there.  So, I had to send the pump and pump mount back and switch it to the driver's side. 

In addition, Aviaid uses a sort of proprietary drive system, which uses a pulley that's been fabricated into the balancer spacer.  Since the FE Power timing cover can use a SBF seal, there's a large boss that sticks out past the timing cover for that purpose.  This interferes with the gear on the Aviaid spacer (can't push it on far enough), so I had to mill the boss down. 

Making progress though, hope to have a lot more progress made this week.  Jay sent me some rocker spacers so that I finalize the geometry and I've got everything there bolted down solid.

[blykins]

Another update (fun stuff):

Got dry sump pump back from Aviaid.  Had it switched to driver's side mount.  They put the wrong thickness of pump body section in it, so it doesn't fit their driver's side pump mounting block.  It was a full bolt hole off.  Emails were ignored.  Couldn't just drill and tap new holes because it would have broken into the existing holes, so I had to buy some aluminum studs, Loctite them in, then drill and tap new holes. 

With the pump mounted up, two things then became glaringly obvious:  1.  The pump pulley is dangerously close to the water pump inlet.  Nothing I can do about that (Aviaid wanted me to cut the inlet off the pump), so I just decided to use an electric water pump.  2.  The driver's side pump mount is sorta like a oil filter adapter, but it serves as a mount and an oil inlet with a -10 fitting.  The -10 fitting is so close to the dry sump pump body that you can't hook a hose to it. 

Tried to move forward with the electric water pump.  Jay had adapters in stock, but CVR was out of pumps. 

Luckily, I had sent a customer of mine a universal pump body several months ago and he wasn't using it, so I got it from him and will send him a new one when they become available again. 

Good times. 

I will tell you, Aviaid, IMO, makes one of the best dry sump pumps out there.  IMO, it's a step above the Petersen pumps and will instantly pull about 15" of vacuum on the crankcase as soon as you fire the engine up, if it's sealed up good. 

However, their mounting systems and oil pan fabrication techniques stink.  Oil pan easily bolted up on the driver's side.  None of the passenger side bolts would start in the block. 

Oh well, onward and upward. 

[blykins]

[machoneman]

So, must you make a pump spacer to allow the #10 line to be installed?

[blykins]

So, must you make a pump spacer to allow the #10 line to be installed?

Can't do much there, or it throws off the C/L between the pump and the crank, then you get into trying to find different belts, shimming the pump, etc.   The mounting block/inlet uses a 1/2" NPT fitting, so I think I can get an extended length 1/2" NPT to -10 AN adapter. 

[Barry_R]

I actively avoid Aviad stuff when possible.  The Cobra pans seem OK as long as you don't mind redrilling half the mounting holes.  I have a Cleveland pan that was so far off square (1/8" plus) that you could see it from across the room.  Did not fit the car by over an inch. Called, send pictures, emailed them, and they told me it was the car and that I was wrong.  Fixed it with a welder.

[6667fan]

745 peak hp. No idea at what rpm, ( not enough cam specs which is fine cuz then I can’t get it wrong)

[blykins]

About got her finished up.  Made up all of the AN hoses and primed the pump yesterday.  Not a drop of oil from anywhere, so that's always a good sign.   Showed about 90 psi on the gauge. 

Running .904" diameter BAM solid roller lifters.  Had to groove them as usual, just takes a few seconds with a Dremel and then you can get oil up through the pushrods.





A couple of build notes:

1.  I always try to use the biggest diameter pushrods that I can.  In this case, a 7/16" heavy wall intake pushrod and a 1/2" heavy wall exhaust pushrod.  There is plenty of clearance inside of the intake adapter itself, but the 1/2" exhaust pushrod basically touches the intake manifold bolt on the middle four cylinders.  Will have to put the bolts on the lathe and turn down the threads in the middle of the bolt and then we'll have clearance.





2.  I'm running about 680 lbs of open spring load on this one.  Turning it over, it feels like it's a lot more.  Anytime I'm assembling an engine with over 600 lbs of spring load, I go from my standard 1/2" drive ratchet to my 24" 1/2" drive ratchet.  Even with it, it turns over a little harder than what I'm used to.   Engine had about 10 lb-ft of rotating drag without the rockers on, so there's not an issue with the engine itself, but in speaking with Jay, we both agreed that the intake rocker arm probably contributes to the extra load.  There's a pretty big moment arm on the intake rocker, since it's offset so far. 





Completely lost contact with my customer, haven't heard from him since around the end of September, so fingers crossed that he will pop up soon....I'd like to get this one out the door.

[fekbmax]

Hey Brent, nice job on the build. Sorry to hear the customer has ghosted you. Hopfuly he will be in touch with you soon.
Was wondering if it looked like there would be any possibility to run a 1/2" pushrod on the intake side as well with some doable modifications ? I'll be running some monster spring pressure's and had hoped to be able to use 1/2" dbl tapered across the board.  Haven't made it that far with mock up yet, Haven't even had the engine unwrapped in a month or so due to my work schedule as of late but will be back on it soon as I got some off time built up for the holidays.