Giggling like a school girl

[turbohunter]

You’re very kind. Not down on myself at all, just a realist who is learning from mistakes. I hope that never ends. The learning, not the mistakes
I must say that I really enjoy the fabrication and problem solving that these cars present.

Along with cleanup I’m starting in on the brake system. I have a camaro kit and a bunch of tubing that I bet I can make the nice system out of. It pays to hoard. 
In case you’re wondering, I have the camaro kit because it was sent to me by mistake. Probably a cruel joke by Dearborn classics. 

[turbohunter]

Here you go Mike. I was mocking this area up yesterday. I got everything in there pretty tightly packed and am wondering if I want to leave it that way or spread it out a little more only because it’s very fiddley to service once it’s all in and tight. I’m thinking once it’s in, it’s in. Not much service needed. I also had to keep telling myself it’s not a show car, just make it work.
There is a slight kink in one line that I have to redo also. 3rd time coming

[mike7570]

Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve. (I should read the directions)
This gives me some options, thanks for posting.

[turbohunter]

Yeah since I’m using a regular proportioning valve I figured it made sense for me to run it like this.
Here’s the finished set up. All adapters are now out of line and my curly cues are about as even as I can get ‘em. I said earlier I had a left over camaro set of lines. The only thing I’ll end up using is the rear end span. Just not happy with the look of having to make it fit. Oh well, tried not to spend money. Fail.

[SSdynosaur]

I did a similar install on a '64 Fairlane except using the Chrysler MC from Lamb Components. My car is race-only and when it becomes necessary to change valve springs the only way to service #8 is to remove the MC mounting bolts and pull the cylinder towards the inner fender. I hope your experience is better.

[turbohunter]

I hope your experience is better.

Me too!

[mike7570]

I hope your experience is better.

Me too!

X3

[turbohunter]

Got my brake system done and am starting to think about wiring and how I’d like to set it up.
Obviously battery in the trunk. But the control panel and electrics will be something to think about.
Below is a pic of the instrument cluster I’ll use. I’d like to put switches in the blank panel on the right but I don’t want to mess up the only panel I have. Anybody have a ‘66 C6OF-10848A instrument panel? I could use it for extra parts and not feel to bad about cutting the face plate. Or I could just fab a new plate.
I have no idea if these clusters are hard to find. A quick look through eBay didn’t reveal anything. I’m not going to use a regular ‘67 cluster. I like this one better.

[SSdynosaur]

Your panel appears to be a "radio delete" version and, if so, I would do everything within my power to preserve that, as is. There has to be multiple people, either restoring one of the '66 Fairlane 500 427 race cars or building a clone that is searching everywhere for a radio delete dash panel. Those are "very" rare and have been for a long time.

[turbohunter]

Thank you.
Was figuring it was something like that. The gent I got the car from told me it was an R code dash.
I did not know if there was such a thing. He told me a few other humdingers like a block I got from him being “high nickel”.

[SSdynosaur]

If it means anything, I purchased and drag raced a new '67 Fairlane 2dr sedan 427 in 1967. My car was a heater, clock and radio delete which would explain my recognition of your dash panel. There are only subtle differences between the '66 and '67 dash panels but yours is a desirable piece for the discerning buyer in need. Have you considered one of the pre-made, race specific switch panels available from Summit or Jegs; there are several variations, one of which, should cover your needs?

[turbohunter]

Funny you bring up the race specific dashes.
Was just looking at them.
Don’t know if I’m ready for that yet in my head. Lots of research needed.
Edit
Re read and saw you said switch panel, yes looking at them.

[Nightmist66]

Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve.

Mike, I hope I don't hijack this thread, but here is what I did on my car. I ended up using an 1/8" NPT nipple between the solenoid and proportioning valve. I also just put a plug where the pressure switch is in this picture, since I already had a brake switch under the dash. It has been working fine for me so far. I have tried the line loc a few times now, and seems to hold fine.

[turbohunter]

No prob Jared.
Those Wilwood deals are great looking and a lot less crap coming from the mc than mine with the braided lines.

[mike7570]

Thanks for the pic.!
I'm using the same mc with the Wilwood proportioning valve. I didn't know if the lineloc could be in line before the proportioning valve.

Mike, I hope I don't hijack this thread, but here is what I did on my car. I ended up using an 1/8" NPT nipple between the solenoid and proportioning valve. I also just put a plug where the pressure switch is in this picture, since I already had a brake switch under the dash. It has been working fine for me so far. I have tried the line loc a few times now, and seems to hold fine.

I like the idea but I'm not following your plumbing. Your running the solenoid between the MC and pressure switch port?  are the two lines out (FO & FO) going to opposite sides of the front brakes? I don't see a line to the  (RO) rear out? 

Currently I've got the stock location and trying to figure out the line loc.