By the looks of the instructions, you have to cut the seal to get it over the crank flange. Is that right? Seems that pretty much negates the benefits of a "one piece seal".
Exactly. The thought of cutting a 1 piece rear main seal, and twisting it to get it over the flywheel flange seems more likely to cause issues, than using the OE 2 piece rear seals. I normally find the side seals more problematic than the actual crank seals anyhow. Ironically, I just installed the crank and FelPro rear main seals in my 428 this afternoon, always a stressful PITA procedure.
I wish more guys would get into the habit of using silicone instead of side seals. I've done this on every FE I've assembled in the past 7-8 years. It takes all the fussiness out of fitting the side seals and cuts down the rear main seal/crank installation time as well.
Would never discount your success with silicone or even say it's not a viable solution, but the Felpro side seals and nails are the issue with side seals, not side seals themselves.
Old side seals used to be different. Seals from Felpro have been too hard for about 10 years and the nails are sharp and thin, which seem to have got worse in the past 5 years, letting them cut into the side of the seal instead of pushing outwards. A JV707P Clevite/Mahle seal with their soft side seals and blunt thick nails, installed after the cap is torqued, may take 5 minutes more than silicone, but work so much better than Felpro.
Not saying AT ALL to convince you or anyone to use side seals, but the Felpro side seals are crap...they sit next to my Speedpro rod bearings as "just in case I am in a bind" pile
As far as 1 piece seal, as Brent said, I don't see a benefit, if done right they seal easy as a 2 piece, seems like a solution looking for a problem, and if they do have the drag Mike has seen, hard to believe they would last