Author Topic: 356" Y-Block - This isn't a FE, but it's a Ford cousin and another "dinosaur"  (Read 4577 times)

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cjshaker

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I think quikbbmustang might be back lol  ::)

LOL

When my engine is done, I'm beginning to think it might not be worth posting results.
Here's a novel suggestion; instead of killing someones cool engine dyno post, why not pose a question in the main forum? Frank?
Doug Smith


'69 R-code Mach 1, 427 MR, 2x4, Jerico, 4.30 Locker
'70 F-350 390
'55 Ford Customline 2dr
'37 Ford Coupe

JC-427Stroker

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JJ was a 352, not a 360.  It started life as a 4.000" bore. 

It seems like you misunderstand a lot of my posts, so let's go over a couple of things.

1.  I said .005" very tongue in cheek, as in "I really don't care what you do to your own engines and if you wanted to try a cylinder wall at .005" thickness, then more power to you."  I'm scratching my head as to why you would even think about taking that literally?



Stunning, isn't it ?

JC-427Stroker

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Ross,
In answer to your question, if you re-read my responses, you'll find this:

Quote
My own opinion is that you should have a min wall thickness of .120 but I found some wet sleeves at .115. Those are even, all the way around and not thicker in some/most areas. But, my main interest was at what thickness do you start loosing hp. There was no answer to that! I was hoping to find a few builders that said "I freshen this engine, X number of times and dyno it, each time. When it got to .X over, it lost power and I had to replace the block".


Again, I am not advocating running under .120 walls
but, I am saying that if your sonic test shows a area down to that, I wouldn't worry about it.

Don't worry about not seeing it at first, most of the guy's on ST, that couldn't answer my question with facts, did the same thing, I said it 3 or 4 times there and Brent thinks I want to run .005 thick walls. I really don't know what to think about that type reaction?


You also stated:
 " This is a good example of not needing thick cylinder walls to make big power."

Those thin cyl walls were SUPPORTED with block fill so that very much negates the point you were trying to make.

JC-427Stroker

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LOL

When my engine is done, I'm beginning to think it might not be worth posting results.
Here's a novel suggestion; instead of killing someones cool engine dyno post, why not pose a question in the main forum? Frank?

Some people ......   

frnkeore

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No worries It's all relevant to the discussion.

I hate to bring this up, JC but, this is what you said about this subject in this/your thread.

Other wise I would have started a new thread since this seems to be of interest.

« Last Edit: March 15, 2022, 12:16:18 PM by frnkeore »
Frank

JC-427Stroker

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No worries It's all relevant to the discussion.

I hate to bring this up, JC but, this is what you said about this subject in this/your thread.

Other wise I would have started a new thread since this seems to be of interest.

And you’ve gone on and on and on and on and on and on to the point where it’s no longer relevant as you argue  a point that people who know far more about it than you do. But you demand proof.

Once you found out the block was filled it kind of takes away your argument regarding "thin walls" . The block was filled to give it rigidity.

Hope that clears it up for you. 
« Last Edit: March 15, 2022, 01:06:39 PM by JC-427Stroker »

jayb

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Please gentlemen, no more pointless arguments.  It takes away from the usefulness of the forum.  Thanks, Jay
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

JC-427Stroker

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Ok Captain...   :)

Thanks.