Engine Oil Build - Long Read

[wayne]

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

[Thumperbird]

While I don't disagree with the whole break in sensitivity (solid lifter exempt) and some other overly hyped aspects of oil this guy is a quart low.  I've been acquanted with all levels of "credentials" and none of the best would ever make this statement.

My advice is, ignore any critics of my Blog, because they have always been wrong, and cannot be trusted. They are not Engineers, they don’t have Credentials, they don’t have in-depth real world experience with engines, and they have never done any testing themselves. So, they draw all kinds of incorrect conclusions and assumptions about motor oil, since they have no idea what they are doing.

[wayne]

I also thought so if breaking a new cam in his way was so good all cam grinders would tell you to do it.I would like to know how the factory broke them in when they were all flat tappet.

[Rory428]

I also thought so if breaking a new cam in his way was so good all cam grinders would tell you to do it.I would like to know how the factory broke them in when they were all flat tappet.

  I can`t say how the factories broke in new cams (or engines), but from 1980 thru early 1986 I worked at a high volume engine rebuilding shop. Virtually every every engine that we rebuilt was equipped with a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. Back then, we used white Lubriplate grease on the cam lobes and lifter bottoms. We would prime the oil pump before installing the engine, and once the engine was installed and first started, we would run the engine at fast idle for about 10 minutes, then idle it down, and adjust the timing, and the carbs idle mixture and speed, and go for a test drive. We typically rebuilt and installed about 200 engines per month, and also sold about that many to repair shops and private customers. I can`t recall ever having an engine come back for cam/lifter failures. Now, keep in mind, there were almost always stock cams and valve springs, used in non high performance applications, and we were using  regular 10/30 oil was delivered in 55 gallon barrels. This was before ZDDP levels were reduced in the oils.

[My427stang]

Any time I have seen a cam go flat, other than an odd run in the 80s when SBCs seemed to be eating them, there has been a clear reason.  Stuck lifter, coil bind, wrong springs, didn't prime the pump, no prelube, etc

However, I am not confident in that guy's recommendations. Modern cams with steeper ramps and stiffer springs to control them can be dangerous at start up.  It was odd he said he liked STP for a cam lube, it'd be in the pan or on the floor before you got the timing chain on, never mind non-existent at start up.  I am on the fence with synthetics too, some say too slick for ring break in, but too many variables to have a blanket statement like that

One thing I don't like is his requirement to get out and drive.  Sure, that's a great way to break in, varying loads and RPM throw oil all over, but you have zero way to monitor leaks, and if something is wrong, you are on the side of the road trying to figure it out. So engineer smart (maybe) but not real-world

I think it's very safe to follow normal procedures, both assembly, oil and break in.  What he doesn't mention is the high pressure and wear numbers come from the zinc and boron.  Admittedly though, I stopped reading after is illusions of grandeur distracted me, maybe he said it later.  One thing I do agree with is walking away from the thickest oil you can.  I have long stopped using 20w50 unless the mains need it

[WConley]

Any time I have seen a cam go flat, other than an odd run in the 80s when SBCs seemed to be eating them, there has been a clear reason.  Stuck lifter, coil bind, wrong springs, didn't prime the pump, no prelube, etc

However, I am not confident in that guy's recommendations. Modern cams with steeper ramps and stiffer springs to control them can be dangerous at start up.  It was odd he said he liked STP for a cam lube, it'd be in the pan or on the floor before you got the timing chain on, never mind non-existent at start up.  I am on the fence with synthetics too, some say too slick for ring break in, but too many variables to have a blanket statement like that

One thing I don't like is his requirement to get out and drive.  Sure, that's a great way to break in, varying loads and RPM throw oil all over, but you have zero way to monitor leaks, and if something is wrong, you are on the side of the road trying to figure it out. So engineer smart (maybe) but not real-world

I think it's very safe to follow normal procedures, both assembly, oil and break in.  What he doesn't mention is the high pressure and wear numbers come from the zinc and boron.  Admittedly though, I stopped reading after is illusions of grandeur distracted me, maybe he said it later.  One thing I do agree with is walking away from the thickest oil you can.  I have long stopped using 20w50 unless the mains need it

I agree.  That guy is a bit of a blowhard!  Most of the advice is OK, but not Bible quality.

[machoneman]

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/

So, why then was this posted? I've seen many a blog on a whole lot of car stuff where I ignored obviously shaded, wrong or suspect information. This blog should come with a warning.

[Rory428]

I often wondered, why, if it is bad oil, bad heat treat or material of the cam and lifters, why is it typically only ONE lobe or lifter that fails?  Would logic dictate that every lobe and lifter should go bad.

[67xr7cat]

Are a lot of old oil threads over on Speedtalk started by 540rat, finished by others... certainly interesting. As for cam break in these days, try best use quality parts, use light springs, 30 weight oil hi zddp, low detergent oil, make sure the lifters all spin at startup, run at 2k for 20 minutes. A set of tool steel lifts, although expensive is great insurance, plus if you change cams you can reuse them.  Finally after break in only use oil designed for engines with flat tappet cams.

[wowens]

I don't have a clue what technical info is in this article. When I read this kind of article, I get bored during the let me tell you how great I am part for the first half of it and delete it.

[Tommy-T]

I must admit I have tried to keep up with 540Rat's blog for a long time. I do find it an entertaining read.

I remember being at a car show and a gentleman had a nicely restored Edsel parked next to me with a 361FE motor. He noticed that my Mustang had an FE motor as well and asked me how many times have I had a camshaft go flat. Seems he had his motor built at a professional shop and had 3 different hydraulic flat tappet camshafts go flat be fore he had one that would "take".

I've run a solid flat tappet cam in every FE motor I've had...except for a brief time with a solid roller. Knock on wood, I've never had one go flat. In fact I have a couple I've run in different motors but I always use new lifters on a used cam just because. Maybe I'm just lucky, but pre-lube and make sure your motor is ready to start when you hit the key.

I also think that break-in oil is baloney. Whatever your going to run, use that to assemble and break-in the motor. I usually run the motor for 15 minutes and then go for a brief drive. Then let it sit over night and cut the oil filter open the next day. If there is nothing in the filter but some assembly lube, maybe some shop rag lint, and really tiny bits of sillycone goo, I don't change the oil. Put another filter and drive. Change the oil and check the filter after 100 miles or so.

Like many old timers here I've run VR1 20-50 many times without harm. Now I run Valvoline Max Life for high mileage vehicles at 10-30.

I don't think it matters much... but for sure you'll never see me use motor oil that costs around or above $10 a quart.

[gt350hr]

   While 540Rat is pretty proud of himself , he DOES have some valid points. People do things because "everybody else does". I see that all the time. "Oil" will only "hold" so many additives in it before they ''fall out of suspension" and end up on the pan floor. I have seen this first hand when I had a pan leak on initial start up. I pulled the pan and there was a gray "sludge" on the bottom of the pan. I scraped it out and set it to the oil analyzer company and it came back as zinc/ phospherous material. It came from a new assembly lube I bought.
    On the cam subject, flat tappet ( hyd or solid)  are "flame hardened'' literally. They are held in a fixture and heated by 16 gas jets and dropped into an oil bath when red hot. The process "can" have issues from time to time . "IF" there isn't any bind in the valve train . Lobe loss can be virtually eliminated by increasing the lobe taper angle to 2*s. The increased taper WILL ensure lifter rotation even with a low zinc oil. That is what my local grinder has been doing for 15 years.
     Randy