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482 SOHC "Saleen Cammer" update
cobracammer:
Well, as expected- just taking the oil pan off was a pain in the butt! It was a combination of lifting upward slightly with the Engine support bar, while loosening the Front K member, removing the motor mounts, disconnecting the Steering rack and getting just enough clearance to pull the pan. Then once the pan was removed, unbolting the oil pickup tube from the oil pump and block in order to remove the windage tray as well.
Had to order a new oil pickup tube gasket- so while waiting for it, I am letting all of the oil drip out...... Cleaning the mating surface on the bottom of the block as clean as possible (Scrape with a razor and use soapy water/ degreaser ) to make sure the new gaskets (gasket/Pan/Windage tray) seal neatly.
Also, I read online that after removing an oil pan, its worth going around it to make sure the pan rails are still flat and not warped. I am planning to put it upside down on a flat surface and lightly tapping and deformations back flat with a hammer. Plan is to do the same with the windage tray as well.
While trying to get the oil pan off, I realized that I would only be able to torque about half of the new fasteners when reinstalling. I seriously doubt that torqueing half of them will be of any use. Any ideas how I can do this properly with a socket on half of them and a crescent wrench on the other half? Don't want to over or under tighten any of them, but cant think of how to ensure they all get the same tightness by hand.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/oufCtZcmrzunW8HVA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/E63juZ2Vj6MtpTq29
gdaddy01:
use the same length box end , combination wrench , as the length of your racket , torque wrench handle . pull from the same place , length , from the bolts .
mike7570:
Sort of like new fangled cars using torque angle instead of foot pounds. Only with new cars you throw away all the bolts and start with new ones >:(
cobracammer:
Here is an interesting tid-bit. While I am cleaning and recleaning the pan rails, windage tray and block mating surface. I just happen to notice that the Oil drain back holes in the rear man cap are in line with the oil pan mounting holes......
This means when the oil pan/ windage tray/ gasket sandwich is bolted onto the block, the oil drain back holes on the rear main cap drain directly onto the oil pan/windage tray assembly and not drop directly down into the pan. A thought is that since the engine has a "slight" tilt rearward when bolted in place on the engine mounts, the oil drain back is probably pouring oil directly onto a "Shelf" made of the gaskets, windage tray and oil pan rail. I could definitely modify the gaskets and windage tray ---but not the oil pan itself just given where the oil pan bolt holes are in relation.
Is this just a bad pan design? OR a bad FE (Side Oiler) engine block design? LOL It does appear that other FE blocks, for example 390's, have the oil drain back in the rear main cap, but its shifted closer to the front and thus does not seem to be back as far as the side oiler drain back holes.....
This is not a photo of my actual block, but shows how the drain back holes site a little further back on the 427 Side Oiler block than say for instance a 390. The second photo is something like a 390 (ignore the red arrow as it was in the stock image I found online)
https://photos.app.goo.gl/93nZvj11M6Lp8mhG7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mNkHUEv1BeBHjXt1A
BigBlueIron:
I generally notch the windage tray to prevent any blockage of the drain. Not sure why they aren't made that way.
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