Author Topic: Port or no port  (Read 1593 times)

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driveamerican

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Port or no port
« on: July 03, 2020, 09:27:00 PM »
I am building a 390 with edlebrock heads hyd roller cam pro flow 4 nv4500 3,73 gears I don't remember all specifications for cam by it was ground for pulling a travel trailer and machinist said for efi, my question is should I port match the intake or just leave it alone I will find cam specifications if needed.

Joe-JDC

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2020, 10:18:41 PM »
What intake manifold?  If RPM, then match the sides and top, leave the bottom alone on the intake manifold.  Only go in about 1/2" or so and blend out.  Be careful that you do not break through the push rod holes.  Joe-JDC
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driveamerican

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2020, 02:03:22 AM »
Sorry the manifold that comes with the pro flow system looks like a Victor with injector brings and thank you for the reply

Joey120373

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2020, 07:01:47 AM »
I’m not expert, not by a long shot, so please defer to others ( the real experts )if their advice is different

If I remember jays work correctly, on some manifolds it helped and on others, not so much. And your application is a low rpm torque motor so I imagine it would be less of an issue either way.

My gut instinct is that I doubt a good port match to the roof and walls won’t hurt anything, and may or may not help, so why not? if you have the tools and a little time go for it.


My427stang

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #4 on: July 04, 2020, 07:12:19 AM »
I am just finishing mine up, I port matched mine, it was pretty bad in terms of both port entry and shape.  FYI I dyno'd mine with a carb first.  Really just a cam breakin and a pull to determine total timing, and even with a set of ported iron truck heads, made 490 hp

I recommend if you are going to run a heater and the stock gauge, you add a bung for the coolant temp sensor.  I do a second weld-in bung right next to the factory temp sender hole.

I also added a fitting for the PCV so I didn't have to run one in front, but that's just for looks, the front or rear port would work fine

It's a slow install, hopefully it runs well. Edelbrock did some odd things, throttle linkage and ball location is much different than a Holley without a lot of additional holes/options, the injector harness doesn't seem too well thought out, and I don't love their crossover line and dead-head injector rail feed.  However, all that whining will go away if it runs well.

I think I will have it running in 2 weeks or so, other paying projects in the way, but coming along

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Ross
Bullock's Power Service, LLC
- 70 Fastback Mustang, 489 cid FE, Victor, SEFI, Erson SFT cam, TKO-600 5 speed, 4.11 9 inch.
- 71 F100 shortbed 4x4, 461 cid FE, headers, Victor Pro-flo EFI, Comp Custom HFT cam, 3.50 9 inch

jayb

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2020, 09:29:32 AM »
I would definitely do the port match on that manifold, top and sides as Joe suggested.  The Victors that I've done have had a very small port exit, and appeared to be designed to allow port matching. 
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC

   

driveamerican

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Re: Port or no port
« Reply #6 on: July 05, 2020, 05:36:25 AM »
First I want to say thanks I don't post much but I read this forum all the time so when given advise I take it. Ross I hope my old pickup is that clean when done I am also more concerned about performance and reliability than looks.