Old Mallory distributor parts compatibility

[C8OZ]

I have a dual point Mallory I'd planned to convert the top to electronic, but before I spread multiple units out for parts, I thought I'd ask here.

Are/were any of the Unilite SHAFTS dimensionally compatible with the old tach-drive points bodies at all?

This is a YL 496B. If there's a simple way to drop a modern shaft in there, I'd prefer to do that, too. (I'm okay losing the tach drive functionality if everything measures up otherwise)

[BattlestarGalactic]

Converting to electronic?   With what?  Like a duraspark style pickup instead of unilite?  I thought Mallory did offer something along those lines for these?  Or is that NLA?
I run a unilite converted YL tach drive in the wagon.  I also run a unilite converted factory distributor in my black car with the blower.  Both with very vintage 6AL boxes.

I saw that post yesterday about Progression Distributors?  Bluetooth programmable distributors.  Really cool stuff.  Have boost options included.
https://progressionignition.com/shop/ols/categories/ford
I'm not much into the billet stuff, but if they offered it in something more vintage looking?



I have a YC style dual point tach drive distributor that I would like to get working again.  I like that old 2 pc "mag" style cap.  Had thoughts of putting a unilite in it and locking it down and putting it back in the wagon again.

[e philpott]

Not what you're asking but have you considered just using one set of the points to trigger a MSD box ? The points won't have any current flowing through them for recharging the Coil with it when triggering a MSD like the conventional set up does recharging the coils ever time the points close , points don't seem to wear out with the MSD

[Falcon67]

I've been keeping one eye open for a 351C Accel dual point like I had years ago.  Just for use with the tunnel ram.  What I'm using now is a stock Duraspark base with a IH 304 V8 cap.  I lock the advance plate and remove the vacuum advance can, so it looks "old school" at first glance.

[C8OZ]

Thanks, guys!

We're all on the same page...I'm just looking to (possibly) take the Unilite conversion one step further and drop in the shaft, too. Easy enough to check, but I wondered if there might be a particular Unilite distributor, if any, that's more likely to be a drop-in fit.

I like that idea about using a point set as a trigger, too. I may have to try that on another project.
I want to take this one racing, so I'd like to drop in as many new/modern parts as possible while keeping the old tach-drive body.

[BattlestarGalactic]

The conversion is like 2 screws so it really isn't a big deal. Unbolt the points plate and put in the unilite plate.  I don't think I would go through the work of getting the shaft out and replacing it.

When I installed the unilite in my stock distributor, I didn't even remove the distributor from the engine.  I unbolted the stock point plate, screwed the unilite down and put cap back on.  I wired up the MSD and started the car.  I didn't even had to reset the timing!!!  It didn't change a thing(except easier starting and better cold idling).  I was amazed.

[C8OZ]

Same. I've never had a moment's trouble from a Unilite setup, and I love the look of the old Mallory distributors.

[manofmerc]

C8 I have a unilite fe distributor I currently am not using .If interested in purchasing it contact me here or call me 678 603 8400 Doug

[Stangman]

Had a unilite for years the beam took a crap and I bought a new setup put it in like you Larry and it was great for 1 month and took  crap again. I looked for anything grounding followed all connections made sure I was getting the right powers was going to get another thinking it was a fluke but went with stock looking dizzy and used that for a while then got an MSD. I tell ya my car always seemed to start better with the unilite.

[BattlestarGalactic]

They offer that little "filter" unit for the unilite.  Luckily I've not had issues with the ones I run.  Both run MSD boxes, so maybe that has something to do with it?  The black car runs off the 9v coil power, the wagon runs full 12v(though only for minutes at a time).  Hope I didn't just jinx myself???

I've seen even new MSD pickup coils take a puke early on also?  Almost want to keep one in the glovebox?  Or do they make you totally dismantle for installation?  I've never worked on one.

You can't buy anything worth a hoot anymore.