Budget Blown Fe

[fekbmax]

This is a Blower motor ill be getting together for someone . These are the Parts and pieces he has so far so these parts are a given .
390 3 web block, crossbolt conversion,  .060 over (4.110) good block, no sleeves.
391 steel crank, ready and waiting for balancing  stock 3.78
Milodon gear drive
PeP H beam rods stock 6.49
Old PSE adapter
351c blower intake speedmaster

I'm looking for Any ideas on :::
 Heads, ?  Massaged aluminum's or good iron heads ?  This is a budget build.

Pistons, compression ratio etc.
Camshaft, type, specks, etc

This is a low buck build, will see some occasional strip time but mostly a street cruiser.  Going in a 72 pinto, c4 trans, 9" rear.  Hot wheels style. 

First blower motor for me so I'm all ears. Any and all suggestions and criticism welcome.

 He has a re furbished BBC 6/71 weiand .

[machoneman]

Tons of great cam,C/R, other tech info here:

http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/technical-charts.html

On the heads, I'll offer that the better the head flow, the more hp you'll gain. Yet, this goes against the budget build idea. If your current parts include a set of iron heads in really good shape already, that would be the way to go. As discussed here and elsewhere however, bringing a worn pair up to snuff could cost as much as a new set of aluminum heads.

Be sure though whichever way you go to include a great exhaust system or you'll bottle up a lot of free hp. Unlike a naturally aspirated engine where primary pipe size, collector size, etc. IS important, it's not quite the same for a blower engine. Here, bigger is generally better to avoid bottling-up that hp potential,

[Tommy-T]

Really on budget? Blown FE?

Pistons are the deal breaker. I have CP slugs in my blown 427 and they're a grand. I think pretty much any custom blower piston will be at least the same. If you can find some new TRW/Sealed Power L2143 dished .060 390 pistons, they might work OK...but only if you keep it out of detonation. That's HARDER than it sounds.
If you're going with the TRW slug, or even a custom, I'd be tempted to use an EDC machined combustion chamber head and maybe "tootsie roll" 'em to 80cc chambers with CJ valves. Use the .050 thick 8364PT Felpro head gasket. Try to keep your compression ratio to 8.5 or so. I run 100LL av gas because it available to me for $5 a gallon.
Just ALWAYS use the best gas available.

Call Ken at Oregon for a reground flat tappet cam. They're cheap and work well. He ground 2 for me, and naturally I put the bigger one in first. Ended up putting in the smaller one later. Can't quote the specs from memory, but it's quite a bit "smaller" than what I'd use in a n/a motor. Wide 114 lobe centers.

Buy 2 swap-meet 750 double pumpers and have them modified for boost referenced power valves. Faron did mine. He's good...and reasonable.

Ignition can be a hassle too. If you can fit a distributor under the blower, well, good. If you can't, and don't want to space it up to the moon, I'd look into the Computronix distributorless ignition. I run the Electromotive stuff.

Have fun...and don't blow it up!

[KMcCullah]

I'd be worried about the block. Has it been sonic checked? Thin cylinder walls combined with boost seems like a taboo combo. At .060 over they could be in the 3/32 range.

I love this build btw. I've got a 391 crank that I'm planning to try with a blower. That big snout needs a timing pulley on it.

[cjshaker]

Just my opinion, but I'd think the block is the weak point, being at .060 over. So with that in mind, BIG power is not really an option. And with that in mind, any old standard FE head would work ok, since the blower will 'make' the intake work. A second way of looking at it would be, aluminum would help with compression tolerance, especially given a good chamber, so a choice would have to be made of just HOW low of a budget does he want. Base the cam and pistons to determine final compression on that choice.

Nothing wrong with a "low budget" blown FE. Larry has had one for years with no problems, and Faron's is not exactly a break-the-bank build. Just keep the compression and RPM's in check, keep the boost at a reasonable level (especially given the .060 over cylinders) and it shouldn't be a grenade.

Since it's going in a '72 Pinto, it won't take much to make it a handful!

[fekbmax]

Could a high compression 3.98 stroke piston be made to use in a blown 3.78 stroke ?

[Faron]

Yes My last combo was sort of that, Venolia made a mistake on the stroke and sent me 3.98 stroke and of course I told them 3.78 , anyway they are flat top no eyebrow and ended up 6.75-1 , and it ran ok a little lazy unless I had it in over drive ( the ratio ) ran
10.93@127 with it on pump gas and 8 percent over , 14years and it finally cracked #7 ,

[scott foxwell]

For a street blower I tend to run a little more static compression and less boost. It gives you more drivability, better throttle response and if you;re not racing the thing, who really cares about boost anyway. I remember an acquaintance who had a blown 500" Chrysler wedge in his 21' V Drive boat that had 11:1 static compression and he ran it on pump gas. It was a beast.

I was searching high and low for a 351C blower intake thinking of that same combination you're going to use but could never find one. Found the Speedmaster 351W blower intake...and that name makes me cringe as to what to really expect. I was going to build a blower motor for my 67 Fairlane but after seeing a few with blowers, I really didn't like the look so I think I'm sticking with NA.

[fekbmax]

Thanks for the info Faron, think we will mock up the 12/1  3.98's with the 3.78 for shits and giggles to see what we come up with.
Scott, I hear ya on the pro comp stuff, I'm not a huge fan either but from the looks of it and being there's no water going through it, the intake doesn't look all that bad. I did tell him I recommended putting EZ lock thread inserts in all the bolt holes though.