Stainless header bolts?

[Falcon67]

Rory, are you sure they're stainless?  A magnet will tell you for sure.

404 Stainless is magnetic, so that's not a universal test.

I use copper anti-seize on plugs in aluminum and silver on bolts and such.

[C6AE]

SS bolts into aluminum, nickel based never seize, zero problems.  I have wondered some about the copper vs. nickel base for never seize products, I have both kinds and always use the copper on rotors and brake drums and undercarriage hardware before replacing.  Removes the need to haul out the BFH to break them loose later in our salty climate.  Is there a better choice base for different applications or is it a horse apiece?  Don't mean to sidetrack the thread, just curious.

Lead based anti-sieze is the best for high heat applications. It is also very good for most other applications. Just don't eat it.
McMaster-Carr has it.

[George vega]

I use stainless on my headers and throughout my engine. No issues.

[funsummer]

Try not to use copper anti seize on aluminum, if any water with traces of salt gets added its a very quick and ugly outcome.
People on boats are very aware of this.
Joel
 

[machoneman]

I always use the silver colored anti-seize that to me smells like gunpowder. Anyone know its chemical name or composition as I'm sure it contains no copper? 

[cdmbill2]

I have used the 12 point large flange 1" under head ARP stainless bolts for years as header bolts. 12 pt. head is great for tight situations and access as I can use a shorty 3/8" Gear Wrench to get them all in and then crank down with a regular 3/8" box. I've used teflon dry lube and nickel based antisieze with equal success. ARP also has 5/16" 12 point header bolts for really tight spots as in pretty much all FE header installs I've had experience with. I think 1" under head is the minimum for 3/8" flange headers. Always chase the threads first, but you knew that.

[Rory428]

I ended up using the FPA supplied header bolts. They are 6 point 5/16 x 1 inch long, and I used silver NevRSeeze on the threads. Although the 12 point bolts normally work fine on the 2 bolt exhaust ports, I am using 16 bolt Cobra Jet heads, and always try to install as many as I can. Due to the curve of the header pipes, there were 2 on each side that simply will not go in, and a couple that had to be started with the flange away from the head to get the bolt started, Even still,  I needed to use 1  3/4 inch long bolt at 1 hole. On several spots, an open end wrench is all that will fit, so rather than have a mix of 6 & 12  point, I went all 6 point. I left the starter out to provide more access to the lower bolt at the right rear, pleasantly suprised that installing the starter with the headers on was as easy as could be,plus the starter cable stud is nowhere hear the header tubes. Very well designed headers for a FE engine in a 57-59 Ford car. Other than some minor clutch linkge work, they were a breeze to install. MUCH much nicer than installing the headers on my old 390 66 Fairlane or 428 CJ 70 Mach 1, or the custom made headers on my 427 FE powered 4 speed 78 Fairmont!!!

[stroked67]

I am a superintendent in heavy civil construction.  and see stainless gall and seize all the damn time.  For extra insurance, always and I mean always use copper based antisieze!

[TomP]

Don't drop any down the header tubes! I did that and spent all day removing an exhaust system since a magnet won't get it out. This was on a car where the headers won't move with the engine in place and the 3" stainless exhaust has an X and crossmembers below it.