Luckily (or stupidly, I'm not sure on that one), I save all my receipts, so I looked it up. I didn't want to give you the wrong one. Here's the cable I used...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tc-1000u/overview/Geez, I only paid $20 for mine. I really need to stop saving my receipts
![Grin ;D](http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
And here's a couple of better shots I took to show the bracket and how it's ran through the firewall. I had to use a washer on the firewall hole because it was a tad big. Apparently, judging by the picture on Summits site, I had to considerably shorten the cable housing also. Like I said, it's been a while. The housing just slides into the ends, so it's not a big deal. The ends are held on by a couple of small set screws, so it can be slid apart and shortened easily.
![](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG3146.jpg)
![](http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e363/cjshaker/IMAG3143.jpg)
On the pedal end, once I had the housing cut to length and installed, you can just slide the cable through the pedals hole, then through the housing, cut to the proper length for the linkage, then put the Lokar end on and tighten the set-screw. Done. My housing is only about 10"-12" after cutting.
On the intake bolts, I've bought so many stainless ARP kits over the years, I just had enough laying around. Their kits are seldom 100% correct since FEs' use so many different combos on the intake, so I cant tell you exactly which kit I used. I've always bought their FE kits, then just bought some small groups of the ones that weren't correct. Not exactly the most frugal way of doing things, but I always find other areas or other engines to use the extra ones on.