Head choices

[ChiefDanGeorge]

Looking at the head pictures, am I correct in saying the Edlebrock heads are more towards the early iron heads with respect to the exhaust port positions?

[chris401]

Thanks for the port layout photos.

[ScotiaFE]

Looking at the head pictures, am I correct in saying the Edlebrock heads are more towards the early iron heads with respect to the exhaust port positions?

The Ed head is kind of a mix of the Cobra Jet head and the Med Riser head.
A great head for ready to use out of the box so to speak.
If they are in the budget then for sure get a set.
Price of admission is always a consideration.

[ChiefDanGeorge]

Just got quote from machine shop for complete rebuild of heads and it's around $800.  So with the price of the heads, the cost is tilting past half the cost of aluminum heads.
I'm wondering if those heads I saw on craigslist really were fully rebuilt being that inexpensive, although the guy I spoke to gave me the upper range.

[Joe-JDC]

When you say fully rebuilt, ask these questions: 
1.  Have they been cleaned either by boiling out in  acid dip, or heated to burn off carbon deposits?
2.  Have they been pressure tested?
3.  Have they been magnafluxed for cracks?
4.  Have the guides been replaced/knurled/lined/sized to the valve stems?
5.  Have the spring seats been enlarged for performance springs?
6.  Have the valve guides been cut for positive oil control seals?
7.  Have the exhaust seats had hardened seats installed?
8.  Have the heads been milled flat?  How many ccs?
9.  Has the exhaust flange been milled flat?
10.  Has a multi-angle valve job been performed with cutters or stones?
11.  Was the valve job done by machine, or by hand?
12.  Were valves replaced with new valves?
13.  Did the intake valves get a back cut, or did they use the 30* stock angle on intakes?
14.  Did they install new valve springs for the camshaft you plan to use?
15.  Were new keepers and locks used?
16.  What is the installed spring seat pressure?
17.  What is the coil bind distance?
18.  What is the over the nose spring pressure?
19.  What type valve stem seal was used?
20.  Were the valve guides lubed on assembly?
21.  What is the intake valve stem clearance?
22.  What is the exhaust valve stem clearance?

There may be more things some of the folks can think of for a used head, but these are some that I would ask before putting any money down on a used pair of 50 year old heads.  Joe-JDC

[ScotiaFE]

Always a tough one. More power. 
You really have to look long term.
What is the goal for the car?
A well built iron head 390 with a good all around gear set and good brakes
will go a long ways to making for a good solid ride capable of long distance runs.
With no problems.
And keep the budget in check, with in reason. just something to keep in mined.

[cjshaker]

When you say fully rebuilt, ask these questions: 
1.  Have they been cleaned either by boiling out in  acid dip, or heated to burn off carbon deposits?
2.  Have they been pressure tested?
3.  Have they been magnafluxed for cracks?
4.  Have the guides been replaced/knurled/lined/sized to the valve stems?
5.  Have the spring seats been enlarged for performance springs?
6.  Have the valve guides been cut for positive oil control seals?
7.  Have the exhaust seats had hardened seats installed?
8.  Have the heads been milled flat?  How many ccs?
9.  Has the exhaust flange been milled flat?
10.  Has a multi-angle valve job been performed with cutters or stones?
11.  Was the valve job done by machine, or by hand?
12.  Were valves replaced with new valves?
13.  Did the intake valves get a back cut, or did they use the 30* stock angle on intakes?
14.  Did they install new valve springs for the camshaft you plan to use?
15.  Were new keepers and locks used?
16.  What is the installed spring seat pressure?
17.  What is the coil bind distance?
18.  What is the over the nose spring pressure?
19.  What type valve stem seal was used?
20.  Were the valve guides lubed on assembly?
21.  What is the intake valve stem clearance?
22.  What is the exhaust valve stem clearance?

There may be more things some of the folks can think of for a used head, but these are some that I would ask before putting any money down on a used pair of 50 year old heads.  Joe-JDC

I think most of us know that everything listed here is what you expect from a quality job, but when it's layed out like that, it really puts into perspective the amount of work that goes into a set of heads (at least a GOOD set of heads). I'd hate to see an entire engine laid out in that format

[ChiefDanGeorge]

My goal is an around town and highway car. Right now, if I want to pass someone, I need alot of clear road on a 2 lane. I want new build to light the tires if needed and be able to get out of its own way when I have to get down the road.
I'd love to try and do one of the Hot Rod Power Tours. I am not building a drag wagon.
That's why I've been looking for a good set of iron heads.

Always a tough one. More power. 
You really have to look long term.
What is the goal for the car?
A well built iron head 390 with a good all around gear set and good brakes
will go a long ways to making for a good solid ride capable of long distance runs.
With no problems.
And keep the budget in check, with in reason. just something to keep in mined.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Chief,
If you are needing to go the ultra cheap route, I've got a set of dirty old D2 heads I'll give ya, if you ever find yourself in southern Georgia.  I just don't feel like mailing them to anyone (because I'm lazy)

My personal input?  I'd buy Edelbrocks, bolt them on out of the box, and forgo the annoyance of having heads rebuilt that are self limiting by their very design.  At least with the Edelbrocks, if you ever decided to make a more potent engine, you are some port work and a valve job away from having that covered.

[ChiefDanGeorge]

Drew,

Thanks for the offer. Guy in NC has a set of C6AEs I can get for $250. I am mulling over the cost of machining versus buying the edlebroks(plus the consensus is stop being cheap buy edlebroks).

[Joe-JDC]

Having said all the above about iron heads, if you have a set of heads already, just get them rebuilt.  With a fresh build, competent machine work, and that HP intake, you should be able to chirp the tires and pass just about anywhere you wanted to with a 390 + .030 and headers/cast headers with good dual exhaust system, and good ignition system.  You will be surprised how well even a fresh 352 would run with 9.5-9.7 compression ratio, 4V, headers, 600 holley, electronic ignition, and dual exhausts.  That Wagon will never be as nimble as a mustang or fairlane, but it can be a pleasure to drive on trips with more than adequate power with either engine.  Joe-JDC

[ChiefDanGeorge]

I decided to go with the Edlebrocks. After realizing Amazon sold them and I've got Amazon Prime, the 12 month interest free financing made the decision for me.
Next up, cam and valve train choices!

[My427stang]

I think that's a good call!

[FE Jonny]

One thing to consider is a new set comes ready to roll, a used set you will have to do valve seats. By the time you do all the work on the iron heads you could have bought a new set. I would do a set of Barry's Felony heads, last time I looked they were the most bang for the buck.