Performer cam/ Cloyes timing chain

[Free59mod]

I got the Edelbrock Performer cam/ lifters and Cloyes timing chain 9-35008X9. I went with the 3 piece billet USA made true roller chain. One issue the pin for the cam sticks out about 1/8" , I see cutting this down so it doesn't protrude and push against the fuel pump cam. Second the cam gear appears to be 180 out . As I set TDC No1 and No6 piston, Rotor at No1 , then removed the intake and all the way to to the cam,the original timing chain marks lined up as should . With out decreeing the cam I can see the original cam pin was to the top, when a dry run install on the side by side , the timing Mary is 180 out, Also do I go 2, 4 degrees advance on the lower gear, which rotates the crank clockwise looking at it,? This is in a 1972 Ford F-250, putting the Performer cam/lifters, Edelbrock Streetmaster intake, 1405 / 600cfm carb, Flowtech headers, Pertonixs II distributor and coil. Any advice or guidance would be appreciated .[ima

[Joe-JDC]

Is #1 piston at TDC on compression stroke, or exhaust stroke?  If you have the piston at TDC, but on the exhaust stroke, the sprocket will be 180* off.  If You did all this checking and the original cam sprocket was in correct position, and now it is off, you have somehow gotten the wrong part.  Either the camshaft is wrong, or the timing set is wrong.  Joe-JDC

[jayb]

The pin is supposed to come through the timing gear, and then go into the slot in the fuel pump eccentric.  So don't cut it off, or you will have nothing pinning the fuel pump eccentric in place.

[My427stang]

I am a bit confused of the gear issue.

If you line it up dot to dot at zero, it should be at TDC, the cam determines if it is on compression stroke or exhaust stroke, not the crank.

If the marks line up and you are saying the dowel is in a different place than where it used to be, then something was made incorrectly.

Maybe take a picture of the problem, but in the end, if the timing marks line up, it'd have to be a big machining mistake to not run

[ScotiaFE]

Sounds like he still has the heads on and is 180* out.
Give it a spin until you are at TDC on #1 which is the right side looking forward
and the first one. The second rocker is the intake.
As Jay said make sure the pin is seated in the cam hole and sticking out far enough
to engage the fuel pump cam. But not past flush because the big washer also covers a small part of the pin to hold
it in.  And a hardened pin. It will shear off if it is to soft. If the pin is to short also it will work it's way into the cam
hole and leave on the side of the road.
If this is the small Edelbrock cam I'd run straight up. Dot to Dot.

[NIsaacs]

What style fuel pump cam/eccentric do you have? Some require the pin to protrude to engage the pump cam, some require the pin to be counter sunk for the pump cam tang to engage. I will post a pic of both styles. It sounds like you might have the two piece style, if so, toss it and find a one piece they are better.

Nick

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-330-352-360-390-410-427-428-Cam-Eccentric-with-bolt-and-washer-/140425302983?hash=item20b20013c7

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BLOCK-Ford-FE-FT-332-352-390-360-406-427-428-FUEL-PUMP-CAM-MUSTANG-CJ-TORINO-/231740582671?hash=item35f4d0ab0f

[jayb]

Good point on the fuel pump eccentric.  Depending on what style he has, he may indeed have to cut off the pin...

[My427stang]

Bump the motor over with your finger covering #1 spark plug hole, when it starts to build pressure, continue to turn it by hand clockwise to TDC

The rotor should be pointing at #1 terminal on the cap, if it isn't, your distributor is in wrong