Even number bolts bottoming out on a Streetmaster Intake Manifold

[jholmes217]

What intake manifold bolts are you guys using that are running a Streetmaster.  I put one on this evening, and the even number bolts on each side bottom out.  I am using the ARP FE intake manifold bolt set.  The OEM set I have is the same length as the ARP bolts.

[Barry_R]

At least you caught it - lots of folks wont notice a bottomed out bolt until they break it or pull out a thread/helicoil.

The ARP kits do not fit anything at all from what I can tell.  We shorten them with a cutoff wheel....

[cammerfe]

+1 on the cut-off wheel method.

KS

[My427stang]

I keep a box of 3/8 bolts labelled "FE intake bolts"
Any time I do a swap, I throw the extras in there. 

The easiest way for me nowadays. 

- I stick a screwdriver in all the holes of the head and measure depth with my thumb and find the shortest, it is rarely less than 1/2 inch (more like never), but I always check
- Then I set the intake on the bench and drop intake bolts (with washers) into each hole and make sure they all have 1/2 inch or so of thread hanging below the gasket surface (with no gasket, this is just a quick measurement)

You need to check though, because bottoming out can break things quickly, but too short can also pull threads out at the worst time, when it's all together and you are torquing things down.... 

I often need to cut the bolts too, cutoff wheel, then dress the edge on a bench grinder for me, followed by a quick hit on the wire wheel sde if it's a big cut.  If it's a little cut I just grind the end of the bolt.  However, if using standard length bolts, often the combination of a lock and flat puts you where you want to be with a standard length bolt.

[amdscooter]

Ran into the same issue as none of the ARP or other intake kits seemed to be made for the Streetmaster. I measured with the intake off the car to ensure none of the bolts would bottom out & that they would have enough thread engagement. Then ran to the hardware store and rummaged through their stainless hardware until I found what I needed. Swore that I took photos and kept a list of the hardware.. but cannot find either. Wish I could be more help. I also remember getting that hardware in there once it's in the car can be tricky.. but I did not have to make any modifications to get off the shelf hardware to fit. Here is a shot of both sides.. hope it's helpful.





good luck!

[blykins]

I've mentioned this here before, but I've had great luck with the bolt kits from www.alloyboltz.com.  They are stainless, are around $45-50 for a kit, and come with about everything. 

They come with a flat washer, but I'll put a lock washer under them as well. 

[jholmes217]

Thanks for the replies and pictures.  I was pretty disappointed when after spending like 2 days port matching that thing plus doing the plenum modification, the bolts weren't going to work.  I have a car show to take it to on Sunday, so I said heck with it and put the Blue Thunder back on for now.  This winter, I may switch back to the Streetmaster, but for now, it is back on the shelf.  The ARP bolts work pretty good on a Blue Thunder Barry.  The even ones on the passenger side will need a washer or two because they bottom out too.

Anyway, I'm pretty excited to drive my Q code 69 Mach 1 to it's first car show tomorrow!  It might be in black primer, but it has a nice shiny freshly rebuilt engine under the hood.

[jholmes217]

I found that Edelbrock makes an FE intake manifold bolt kit with three lengths of bolts instead of the normal two.  I ordered a set, and will post again after I try them to see how they work.  Here's the set on the Jegs web site.  http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/8507/10002/-1