Starter Alignment

[Phil0618]

I have a Cobra replica with a 427 Shelby aluminum block. It has a bellhousing (Lakewood I think) and a 184 tooth flywheel. The bellhousing was doweled and fixed in position by a prior owner. I have went through two ring gears and two starters. The cause is that the starters do not engage enough laterally. All the aftermarket starters have the same issue. The block plate is aligned to the same place the bellhousing is. I have attached a couple of pics. Any ideas on the cause? Is the bellhousing aligned improperly? Any thoughts on how to solve this problem? I am thinking it may be easiest to have a machine shop make a starter frame that fits properly. I am relatively confident the bellhousing is properly aligned.

Phil

[jholmes217]

I don't see your pictures.  I don't think they uploaded.

[machoneman]

I have a Cobra replica with a 427 Shelby aluminum block. It has a bellhousing (Lakewood I think) and a 184 tooth flywheel. The bellhousing was doweled and fixed in position by a prior owner. I have went through two ring gears and two starters. The cause is that the starters do not engage enough laterally. All the aftermarket starters have the same issue. The block plate is aligned to the same place the bellhousing is. I have attached a couple of pics. Any ideas on the cause? Is the bellhousing aligned improperly? Any thoughts on how to solve this problem? I am thinking it may be easiest to have a machine shop make a starter frame that fits properly. I am relatively confident the bellhousing is properly aligned.

Phil

I take it (laterally) that the starter's Bendix gear is too far away for the ring gear. That said, welding up the block plate's two mouting holes and re-drilling them and machining/grinding the big starter location hole would be your best bet and far cheaper than a whole new plate . I'd be sure 1st though that a double-check of the bell's correct indexing to the crank's plane proves that it's correct and the starter itself must be relocated.

Btw, this is unusual in my book since my OEM iron blocked 358W with a Lakewood bell, once indexed, needed the starter to be moved out.....not in. I have heard of a few others that encountered this issue with a stick-shift bell on a Ford block but never where it was too far away. 

[Phil0618]

I guess there is a first for everything. I will try to upload a pic.

Phil

[machoneman]

Yep, too far away!

[10w30dna]

I always try to use parts that match factory Ford parts. The flywheel may not be correct or the block plate may be incorrect,or a stack-up between both. Put a stock Ford starter locater plate on the block and re-check. Ford made millions of FE blocks/starters/plates and most all work just fine.

[Lenz]

Btw, this is unusual in my book since my OEM iron blocked 358W with a Lakewood bell, once indexed, needed the starter to be moved out.....not in. I have heard of a few others that encountered this issue with a stick-shift bell on a Ford block but never where it was too far away.
[/quote]

This was my problem with an early stick bell, couldn't figure out my hot no-crank issue until I discovered the starter needed to be moved out to get the necessary clearance.  Comes from using various years OEM or other supplier parts that rightly should all work fine together but sometimes just don't. 

[fairlanegt427]

what kind of starter are you using,  that drive gear just looks different to me,  it might be just pic quality but it looks skinny  plus it does need to be moved closer to ring gear. plus all these aftermarket bellhousings fit like crap.  I haven't found one yet that I haven't had to "massage to make fit correctly" jmho.