Author Topic: Mechanical Fuel Pump Recommendations  (Read 10476 times)

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MUDICE

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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Recommendations
« Reply #15 on: August 11, 2014, 12:08:08 AM »
It was a real hot 327 in a Chevy II, when I saw it the next day from the fire wall forward was scorched. It blew the oil pan and both valve covers off. He said when it went off, at about 9,500rpm, it was one big flash and it blew it self out. That was enough that I never considered trying it.

Later Vick

babybolt

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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Recommendations
« Reply #16 on: August 11, 2014, 06:53:55 AM »
Even without an electric pump behind it, the gas that gets into an engine with a bad mechanical fuel pump will trash the rings and bearings quickly.

Barry_R

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Re: Mechanical Fuel Pump Recommendations
« Reply #17 on: August 11, 2014, 07:05:39 AM »
This stuff is not that hard - but it does get confusing.

Fuel line size requirements are a function of both engine demand and pressure.

A larger fuel line is needed if less pressure is being used.

The line from a fuel tank to the inlet of a fuel pump is under a modest amount of vacuum - no pressure - thus it needs to be rather large in order to provide adequate flow.  That's why even stock performance engines needed 3/8 lines, and race stuff needs 1/2" lines or larger/multiple feeds.

The line from the pump to the carb (or injectors) - any kind of pump - is under pressure.  Depending on the pressure, the line can be smaller than the inlet side.  On a single carb you are usually feeding a pair of needles & seats through .110" diameter orifices.  Having humungous fuel lines to the carb on a street car might look cool, but its really kinda silly to be anything larger than 3/8ths.

Pipe threads (pipe threads are also known as NPT) are machined on a taper, and the dimensional description/conversion for them seems to have almost nothing to do with anything the normal guy will read on a ruler.  The majority of automotive fuel stuff will have a 1/4 NPT thread, while a few race type items will have a far larger appearing 3/8 NPT thread.  High pressure EFI pumps for under 500 HP will get by just fine with a spooky small 1/8 NPT thread on the outlet side - remember about the pressure/flow deal.

Most if not all aluminum casting fuel pumps will require an adapter to connect steel tubing lines.  Its pretty much impossible to machine a inverted flare fitting into a casting on a production basis - so they use a female NPT thread.  An inverted flare fitting is exactly that - designed with a central cone shape to seal against a flare at the end of a steel tube.  The steel line will use a brass fitting with a straight thread, and the tube itself will have a 45 degree double taper.  The taper seals against the cone machined into the aforementioned inverted flare fitting.

Your required - and very common - adapter thus ends up having a male pipe thread on one end and a female inverted flare at the other end.  You can get a wide variety of combinations to fit most common line sizes to most common pipe threads - and even the factory performance pumps used them on many vehicles as well - not sure about your's in particular.  I generally use the Carter M6905 here.