Help with distributor curve

[Aussie Rob]

Hello everyone, my name is Rob Simpson,I live in Queensland ,Australia where it's hard to get information on FE engines.
All the Ford people here run Windsors OR 385 series and few know the difference between an FE and those other Ford big blocks.
I imported a 64 XL500 f/back Galaxie 7 years ago and have just completed an engine rebuild on the 390 using this wonderfull forum as a reference . The car's not a daily driver and is used for club runs and nostalgia track days locally. I would like some help with advance curve and what I should reasonably expect in terms of HP,60ft and et. Engine details are 390 .60 over [sonic tested] forged pistons,10.5 compression,miloden 8 quart sump and windage tray,comp roller [xr282] 521and532 lift, 232and 237@ 50th,edelbrock 60069 heads cleaned up with comp springs, harland sharp needle roller rockers ,3/8 cup and ball   pushrods, rpm performer and 750 mech secs, 6al2 and msd dissy. Behind is awide ratio toploader,31 spline moser[ 3.77] and 28x 10.5 et radials. I'm thinking 32-34 total 16 initial all in by 2800, but this is not my area of expertize. A 3.9 or 4.11 ratio would be better but $ are used up.
  Thanking you in advance.
             Rob.        PS What would this car weigh?
                                 Running fpa headers and 2.5" system

[jayb]

Welcome to the forum, Rob.  Great car to start out your FE experience with!  I think you are pretty close on your timing estimates, although I guess I would be shooting for 36 total at 3000 RPM.  16 degrees initial is probably good, depending on availability of good quality fuel.

My '64 weighed about 4300 with me in it before all the changes, so figure about 4100 pounds for the car.  But mine is not an XL.  It did have air and power steering though, back then...

[Joe-jdc]

My personal experience would suggest 12*btdc initial as a starting place, 36-37*total with the aluminum heads, and all in by 25-2600rpms.   I would only go up to 14-16* initial if you could not establish a clean idle and vacuum.  I still would recommend a total of no more than 37*.  Joe-JDC.

[My427stang]

I am with Joe, I like a little quicker curve but starting around 12.  The heat in the chamber is nice on the street unless you have a lot of overlap and need the advance to get it it idle.

My rule of thumb for the heavier street FEs is 12 initial, 36-38 total depending on how tight the quench is, and then I estimate how quick by the weight and compound gear ratio.  You have a heavy-ish car, but a good 1st / rear combo, so my guess is it will be happy all in around 2700.  A lighter car and/or more gear would be sooner, a close ratio tranny and/or less gear I'd delay later

[Aussie Rob]

Thanks for the help , I'll experiment with those recs and find what works best. I also meant to ask what I should limit the revs to .Using Barry R's book and info from the forum
I spent a lot of time preparing and assembling the block doing all oil mods , matching each piston to a bore ,file to fit rings and had everything from front pulley to pressure plate balanced at a very good one man local machine shop and.listening to you guys 6000 is safley about it for a hydraulic set up but this thing wants to go a bit harder and I've resisted the temptation even though it's still pulling.   I've haven't had a roller cam before but it's not only the will to rev high but the speed at which it gets there that surprises me.
   Thanks Rob.

[Faron]

I like More initial 18-20 with the 34-36 limit all in by 28-3000, make sure the Vac adv ( if you have / use one ), is hooked to a ported source and does NOT start till at least 10-12 inches of vacuum , and no more than an additional 12 degrees ( crank ) by 16 inches