Author Topic: 427 SO windowed version 3.7  (Read 3075 times)

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cbolze

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427 SO windowed version 3.7
« on: October 09, 2013, 11:02:36 AM »
I will be looking at a 427 side oiler that has been windowed and weld repaired. The block was broke in the 3 and 7 crank pins areas. The person selling it said that he got it in a package deal, does not know much about it, has other 427s that he is building and is selling this one. He took it to a machine shop, who told him the weld repair was ok but the block needed 2 sleeves and full machining work (Line bore/hone, boring, decking), he thinks its 0.030 overbored and it needs the 2 sleeves due to the previous rod damage.  My questions are concerning the damage and weld repair. If the block is broke through, around or across the cross bolt holes or through the side oil galley, are these type of breaks/cracks considered the death knell of this block? If the block was broke only between the main bulk heads/webs where it only affects the side skirts of the block and oil pan rail, is it still a good block? Or is downgraded to lower horse power rating/low rpm/show car circuit? What would be the maximum over bore? If it is 0.060 over, then its sonic mapping and/or sleeving.  Is it worth putting in 6 more sleeves?  What is the proper weld repair? Weld just the outside of the cracks or both sides? Should the oil pan rails be lined up and level or is a little off acceptable? Would the cam bores need to be checked and or remachined (bigger) if out of alignment from the damage and heat distortion from the weld repair? I know it’s a lot of questions but I like to cover all the bases and need to ask those who have seen and done this in the past.  I like to get a good number in mind to offer, when to go for it or when to cut and run. Answers to all these questions are what I like to discuss with the seller so he knows where I am starting from when I make an offer. His starting price is close to the age and condition of the block. My bottom offer is the value of the main caps and $0.11/lb for the rest of it. The block has all 5 main caps, bolts and spacers, external ribs, steel screw in core plugs (with a 1” hex), is machined as a side oiler with the oil pressure relief at the back of the block.  As of now I don’t know if it is drilled for hydraulic lifters, and any other cracks (freezing etc), size of the distributor drive hole (FE/FT), date code, Ford numbers, how many sleeves or bore size. Monday I will have more pictures and details.  I know anything can be fixed if you throw enough money at it, but for my needs when the cost gets greater than 50% of a new one, I can let someone else take this challenge.  Thanks, Courtney.

lovehamr

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Re: 427 SO windowed version 3.7
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2013, 11:50:33 PM »
This is just me but I'd start with a $75 390 block before I'd put any money into that one. :o

Steve

jayb

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Re: 427 SO windowed version 3.7
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2013, 07:30:07 AM »
I guess to me price would make the decision there.  If the caps and spacers are good the block is worth at least a couple hundred bucks just for the caps alone.  If the sleeves are needed next to each other on the same bank, I would say that the block is scrap.  If they are on opposite banks, the sleeves wouldn't scare me.  If the block is already .030" over (you should measure to be sure), then it can probably be used.  If it is more than that, you are asking for trouble IMO.

I think in any case I wouldn't pay more than $750 for a block like that, because of the risks involved...
Jay Brown
- 1969 Mach 1, Drag Week 2005 Winner NA/BB, 511" FE (10.60s @ 129); Drag Week 2007 Runner-Up PA/BB, 490" Supercharged FE (9.35 @ 151)
- 1964 Ford Galaxie, Drag Week 2009 Winner Modified NA (9.50s @ 143), 585" SOHC
- 1969 Shelby Clone, Drag Week 2015 Winner Modified NA (Average 8.98 @ 149), 585" SOHC